Donkey
Care Sheet:
General:
If you are considering buying a donkey, there are several things you need to consider- most importantly; this is a pet that will be with you for 40-50 years. Gelding and/or jenny donkeys make wonderful pets- they are very friendly creatures, and once you have earned your animal’s trust, you will have a loyal and affectionate companion. Despite the common misconception, donkeys are NOT stubborn. If a donkey refuses to to what you ask of him/her, it is because it does not feel safe- just goes to show how intelligent donkeys really are!! Because donkeys are a herd animal by nature, you should always have at least two donkeys. One on its own will become lonely, and a lonely donkey is a noisy donkey. Gelding/Gelding, Jenny/Jenny or Gelding/Jenny combinations usually work well. A jack (“complete” male) should never, ever be kept as a pet. Many jacks are friendly, but because of their hormones and instincts, they are often unpredictable, and can be very dangerous to both their human companions and their animal companions. Jacks have been known to kill other jacks or geldings in the same paddock.
Feeding:
For hand-feeding to be kept to a
minimum, there should be approximately 1 acre of pasture per donkey. If your
donkey is to be hand fed, you should provide 1 biscuit of grass hay morning and
night. Because they are desert animals, meaning that food is often sparse, and
wild donkeys often have to travel large distances to find it, donkeys should not be fed
on lucerne hay or lush grass on a regular basis. It is too
rich for them and may cause problems such as laminitis and colic. You should
also ensure that your donkeys have a supply of fresh water, and you should
provide a mineral lick for them. It is also
important that donkeys are not able to reach foods such as animal pellets, some
grains and bread, as these can cause obstructive colic, a potentially
life-threatening illness. If you suspect that your donkey may have eaten
any of these foods, you should call a vet immediately- these foods can kill a
donkey in a very short period of time.
Shelter & Fencing:
Donkeys are notorious escape artists, and many are skilled in unlatching gates, turning door handles, etc. Some of ours have been known to let themselves out of their paddocks and turn up on the veranda to peer through the windows!! Fences and gates therefore should be very secure. Many donkeys dislike shelters, but if your donkey gets sick, it may be necessary to stable him/her, and so your paddock should also have a 3 sided shelter with a dirt floor.
General Health Care:
Your
donkey should be groomed, have its hooves picked out and its eyes cleaned, at
least once per week. This serves two purposes: first, it helps to form a bond
between you and your donkey; second, it enables you to make a thorough
examination of the donkey, so that if there are any problems they can be
detected at an early stage, enabling treatment to be applied as soon as
possible. Thus not only does this routine makes your donkey look good, it is
also a sure way of maintaining its good health.
In
addition to this, you should also have your donkey’s hooves trimmed by a
farrier every 12 weeks, and he/she should be wormed at the same time. An equine
dentist should examine your donkey’s teeth every two years or so. Your donkey
should also be treated with fly repellent (legs only) and a delousing powder in
the relevant seasons. In Australia, this is roughly November-March for flies,
and April-September for lice. Your donkey will require anti-tetanus shots- your
vet can advise you on this.
Finally:
donkeys have a very high pain threshold, which often makes it difficult to catch
injury/illness in its early stages. If your donkey appears unwell and/or
distressed please do not hesitate to call your vet.