Click HERE to return to main page
Backpacking Ireland - Summer 2002
Thursday morning, August 1st, we finished our tour of the Ring of Kerry and then took a bus from Killarney to Tralee, then another to Dingle.  The rolling green hills were very plentyful on the drive to Dingle.  We got a room at Connor's B&B in the heart of Dingle.  This town was our favourite of the whole trip!!! It was the perfect size to walk around and explore; it had lots of pubs and restaurants to choose from; and, it had some of the best traditional music in all of Ireland.  And, scenery to die for!!!
We had dinner at Murphy's Pub and then stopped into Murphy's Icecream Parlor for dessert.  We walked around the harbour front viewing the boats and shoreline; then headed uptown to check out the music scene.

The first pub we visited was An Droichead Beag (The Small Bridge).  A band started to play a little while after we had gotten there and we enjoyed them very much.  One of the guys played the uillean pipes which was great to hear and see.  We were still looking for a more spontaneous session though so we headed back out on the street to find another pub.  Our next stop was Greaney's Pub.  We could hear the music from outside so we stopped in for a pint and a listen.  The players were good but still not really what we were looking for so we were back out on the street again.  We walked for a while in the quieter sections of Dingle.  We were enjoying the town and taking some pictures along the way when we came upon Dick Macs.  It was a pub we had seen and heard about before in many books and on postcards.  It was a hardware store that by night turned into a pub.  It was very small but there were lots of people in there. We decided not to go in but we watched for a bit and noticed it was mostly older men, probably local towns folk.  It was the true Irich pub scene that had always been in our minds.  If we had our time back we would have gone in there probably. But, at the time it seemed to be the right thing to do. Almost like a "No Tourist Aloud" feeling, but I'm sure we would have been very welcomed if we had decided to enter.

Our leisure walk brought us to a pub called Ua Flaicbearcais, located towards the harbour.  When we entered we knew right away that this had been what we came to Ireland to see!  There were three men in the center of the room playing bohran, accordian and banjo.  It was the true Irish session at it's best.  They played all traditional songs and mixed up their instruments to incorporate tin whistles, guitar and bozouki. One of the men appeared to be the owner of the pub, during one song, his daughter got up to dance.  It was amazing to see!  When the 3 men stopped singing the locals started singing amongst themselves!  The first to start was an older women probably in her sixties who was sitting next to us with her husband.  She sang
"Rare Auld Times" and during the chorus everyone would join in.  There was so much heart in her words and it felt like everyone was united by the song especially the older people. It was by far our best experience of the whole trip.
The next morning we took a tour of the bay to see "Fungi" the dolphin.  He came into the bay in the early 1980's and never left.  He was playing with us and only a few feet from the boat we were in.  It was a lot of fun and a nice change to be out on the salt water.

We spent the rest of the afternoon driving up the west coast of Ireland, on our way to Doolin.  We stopped at the Cliffs of Moher for a break and some picture taking.  It was quite beautiful.  I laid on my belly to look over the edge.  It was breathtaking!!! 

Once in Doolin we headed to the campground site which was at the end of the town.  We set our tent up and then went to a restaurant to eat.  It's a VERY small town with MANY tourists.  It was impossible to find anywhere to eat so we decided to make campfood our dinner.  It was beans and sandwichesfor us.  It was a relaxing evening and an early night to bed.
Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1