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Sahara
After a brief visit to Sidi Ifni along the coast to rest and recuperate
from our travels through the Atlas Mountains, we decided to head into the
desert. This is the sole reason for me wanting to make this journey down
towards Mauritania and I was looking forward to it. Nine days later we
were back at Sidi Ifni, with memories to last me a lifetime. A seed has
been planted, a being transformed. My love for the desert sparkled - the
longing to return burning inside every day.
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Mubarak's House
There was a force driving us towards the sands of the desert. After
having trouble with extending South African visas, we decided to hit the
road. We bumped into Mubarak and Basheer, when we arrived in Guelemine,
the last biggish town before the desert. They kindly let us stay in their
home, an ancient mosque built from clay.
I was taken back by how little they have in possessions. The only
material thing inside their house was a few carpets, a tagine pot to make
food in, some embers from last night's meal and some crockery.
Because it was Ramadan, we tried to fast during the day and feasted as
soon as the sun went down. We loved the sweetness of the dates, the
succulent goat's meat and hearty Harira soup. It was great to experience
such a religious occasion with real people - salt of the earth
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Camping next to palm trees
After our lovely evening with our friends, it was time to move along,
meet new people and camp in more exotic locations. We drove due east
towards the sand dunes of Zagora and Merzouga. This evening we decided to
camp next to a some palm trees, a mini oasis with the exception of no
water.
Our campsite made of a dramatic background as the sun turned all
colours pastel again. I was in heaven.
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Beautiful sand dunes
Two more hard days driving and a few punctures later, we found
ourselves in the middle of some very large sand dunes. We were surrounded
by seas of sand and had a cloudless blue sky as a roof - nothing else.
Something has to be said about the simplicity of it all; the only two
colours around us was blue and gold, and somehow, in the midday sun, it
melted into oneness. I have never in my life felt so free of society and
all the rules associated to it.
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Sand dune
More days in the sand, more smiles amongst the dunes. It was now early
December, mid winter and the clouds seemed to congregate towards the
south. Sadly, the South African visas were nearing their end, and Frikkie
had a plane to catch from Casablanca back to Cape Town via London...
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Back towards Sidi Ifni
Reluctantly, we left the peace of the desert behind and
headed back to Sidi Ifni to say our goodbyes to all the acquaintances we
met there. The sun was exploding white again, and although it was nearing
mid winter, at this low altitude, it still felt like a summer evening
in Kent. Each to their own thoughts, I couldn't help but notice the rest
of our team silently smiling, thinking of days gone by
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Essau
The sun was setting in Essaouira. The wailing cries
started to resonate through the streets of the small town. People were
closing down their tourist shops and heading towards the mosque for their
final prayers before breaking fast. As the only western travellers walking
around the empty alleys, I felt some sort of longing back to something I
haven't lost yet. I didn't want to return back to London, but reality
started to look me straight in the face
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