Waraku Tenbo no yu

The town onsen is located on the 11th floor of a huge pachinko building - a pretty surreal setting for such a relaxing place. There is a vast indoor pool complete with massaging jet streams. Outside there is a smaller tub with a view of the whole city to the north. Both Kumamoto Castle and Mt Kimpo are visible. There are waterfall tubs and a herbal remedy bath. It's open throughout the night and so is great for evening views of the city, or if you miss your last train and need a place to sleep! The onsen is within easy walking distance from town. Walk to the end of the Kamitori and continue along the uncovered street. At the road junction turn right and look for the pachinko parlor (the 11 story high semi-clad cowgirl makes it unmissable!) It is located on route 1 just before the route 3 crossroad. Opening times; 1000 - 0900 (on Tuesdays from 1200) Costs; 600yen. Phone number; 0963462683

Shrio no yu

This onsen has some of the best facilities in the area. There are a wide selection of hot tubs - with graded temperatures, utase yu, plunge pools, a 3m outdoor waterfall and back massaging jet spas. There is even a TV in the sauna! There are regular massages and foot massages available (both 3000yen for 30 minutes). Cheaper are the massage chairs in the relaxation room. There are also rooms available for only 3500yen a night. It is easily reached from town - and a good alternative to the town onsen. It is situated on route 1 halfway between Kumamoto City and Kami-kumamoto, next to MacDonald's. You can take a number 33 bus from the Kotsu center (10 minutes) Opening times; 1100-2400. Costs; 550yen. Phone number; 0963522626

Yurakusu

This is another town onsen with superb facilities. There are massages available, karaoke, and a rest-room which has TVs set in the back of the comfy chairs. The outside bath has a small waterfall feature and an utase yu. It is close to Kumamoto station in the south of town. It is just off route 3.
Open 24 hours. Costs; 500yen. Phone number; 0963621126

Kurokawa Onsen

The North East corner of Kumamoto has the largest and best selection of onsens in the prefecture. There are over 40 onsens clustered around the 442, and a dozen more in Oguni. Head for Kurokawa onsen - here you can buy a combination ticket (a wooden medallion) for 1200yen which allows access to 3 different onsens. You have a choice of 25 superb rotemburo. They are all based on or around the Kurokawa (the "Black River"). A map of Kurokawa can be picked up from any of the onsens in the area.
My personal favorite, and highly recommended is the cave onsen "Shinmeikan" located on the river in the middle of the village. The indoor onsen fills a narrow cave tunnel, off which are shallow coves for relaxed bathing. There is a 50 metre riverside walk (exposed to all those on the opposite side!) to the large communal rotemburo. This has a nice view of the river and of the bustling village streets. The large (swimming pool sized) onsens at Yamabiko and Kurokawa onsen hotel are worthy of a visit. The pool at Yamamizuki may be slightly smaller, but here you can cool off in the adjacent river. These all offer both communal and single sex bathing. On a clear day head to the San-ai Kougen Hotel - here you can enjoy some great views of the Aso area and the distant smoking volcano. Bathing is segregated. Driving. Kurokawa can be reached by taking either the 212 or the 11 from Aso. Then follow signs onto the 442. Kurokawa onsen is signposted on the 442. It takes about 2 hours to reach Kurokawa by car from Kumamoto city. However, at weekends it can take closer to 4 hours when the 57 becomes really congested. Set off before 0800 to avoid the queues. An alternative is to go after 2000 and spend the night at the nearby campsites or Senomoto Youth Hostel. You can then get to Kurokawa for about 0830 and enjoy crowd-free bathing until about 1000. Reaching Kurokawa onsen without a car.
There is a bus that runs from the kotsu center at 0900 - arriving at Kurokawa at 1117. It costs 2000yen each way. The bus also stops outside Aso station (at about 1040). The return bus leaves Kurokawa at 1655 and arrives back at the kotsu center at 1912. Another possibility is to take a train to Miyaji train station. From here the owner of the Senomoto Youth Hostel is prepared to give a lift to his hostel (if rung in advance.) The hostel, 5km away, is a good base from which to take a taxi. You can take a train to Aso Station, and then a bus to Kurokawa, or hitch hike from the station along the 212.
By 0900 12 of the 25 onsens are open for business, the remainder are all open by 1100.
Shinmeikan 0967440906. Yamabiko 0967440311. Kurokawa onsen hotel 0967440131
Yamamizuki 0967440336. San-ai Kougen Hotel 0967440121

Aso

Tarutama

The Tarutama onsen was ranked as "the best in the land" by the author of "Japan's Hidden Hot Springs." It offers communal bathing in muddy grayish green waters. There are two large outdoor rocky pools underneath waterfall features. This exceptional onsen is well worth a visit. Aim to visit both Taratama and the nearby Jigoku onsen together. It is possible to walk from the onsen to the Aso volcano (70 minutes from the Aso volcano museum, 90 minutes starting from the onsen). Unfortunately, the onsen is only to non-residents until 1500. For 9000yen you can stay the night at Tarutama ryokan and enjoy unlimited use of the pools. A bus to the onsen runs from the Aso Shimoda station (South Aso-minami line) and takes 20 minutes. This service is very limited however. The last bus to leave Taratama for the station departs at 1540. A taxi costs 1800yen. Opening hours; 1100-1500. Costs, 600yen. Phone number; 0967670006

Jigoku Onsen

Andrew Fowler editer of "Guide to Kyushu" describes this onsen as "possibly the best in the Aso region" - its late night opening times make it more convenient than neighboring Tarutama. It too offers communal bathing. Water temperatures vary from scalding to lukewarm (and more pleasant in-betweens!) depending on the tub. The communal tubs are housed in a ramshackle wooden building - and are filled with thick sulphuric mud. It's a fantastic experience, but be warned though - you'll smell of rotten eggs for days! Jigoku onsen is situated just 500m up the road from Tarutama onsen. Opening hours; from morning until 2100. Phone number; 0967670005

Qua resort

This place is ideal for those who want to enjoy the onsen experience without bearing all to complete strangers - at the German style "qua house" you bathe with your trunks on. They have a wide selection of exotic baths - a "relaxing bath," "dream bath," "rolling bath," "Turkish bath" and a "mist steam bath" as well as a Jacuzzi and sauna. The Qua resort is located on Route 57, only 1.2km from Aso Staion.
Costs; 1500yen. Phone number; 0967340811

Azela 21

This vast complex is the largest hot springs center in Kyushu. As well as onsen and sauna facilities it also boasts a 50-meter swimming pool and water-slide. Azelea is convenient for those on their way to the East Aso ropeway- it is only 1.5km from Miyaji Station, and 1.2km off route 57 (on the Sensuikyo Road). Opening hours; 1000-2200 (closed second and fourth Mondays) Costs; 800 yen. Phone number; 0967225311

Takamori Hot Springs Centre

The Takamori Hot Springs Centre is regarded as one of the top onsens in Aso. There are great views of the smoking caldera from the outside tubs. There are 12 different baths in total - including a herbal bath and an electric bath. It is located on the 265, 5km away from Takamori station.
Costs; 400yen. Phone number; 0967622626

Northern Kumamoto

Kyusenkaku hotel sand bath (Ueki)

This is the only place in the prefecture where you can enjoy a sand bath. You lie on the ground whilst an assistant shovels hot sand over your body until you are completely covered. You are then left for 20 minutes to sweat it out - occasionally having your brow mopped by the friendly shoveler. It's a bizarre experience - and something of an endurance test for the final few minutes, but you feel fantastic when you're finally dug out. You can then relax with some free ocha and then wash yourself off in the large outdoor onsen. Take a bus from the Kumamoto Kotsu center heading towards Yamaga. Get off at the Ueki onsen irriguchi stop. From here it is a 20 minute walk. Take the right turn by the bus stop, signposted with onsen billboards. After 1km along this road, you will cross a large river. Immediately after the bridge turn left. The hotel is the large white building on your right. Opening times; 1400-1800. The sand bath/onsen combination costs 1400yen. Phone number 0962746211

Southern Kumamoto

Sankaikan (Minamata)

This onsen is one of Kumamoto's finest - the inside pool is carved into the rocks and the outside bath has a fantastic coastal view of the sea. The onsen is part of a ryokan - and therefore the opening times are pretty restrictive. However, the cave onsen is worth making an effort for! It is on the coastal road 56, close to Yunoko Beach. You can take a Kyushu bus from Minamata station (16 minutes).
Opening times; 1030-1400. Costs; 700yen. Phone number; 0966 631092

"Samata" onsen (Chuo machi)

This onsen is regarded as one of the best in the area. The large outdoor area is set in woodlands - and has a large pool with a back-massaging waterfall. It is located near to the 3333 steps. It is just off the 218 driving from Matsuabase.
Opening times; 1000-2130 (closed every second Thursday of the month). Costs; 400yen. Phone number; 0964464111

Sakamoto Crayon onsen

This large and modern onsen is set in the hills overlooking the Kumagawa. There are pleasant wooded views from the outside tubs. There is an utase yu and also massage chairs/foot massagers to soothe your pains away. Driving on the 219 (between Hitoyshi and Yatsushiro) turn onto the 60 - and follow the signs. It is alternatively a 30 minute walk from Haki station. Opening times; 1000-2000 (open until 2100 from April to October.) Closed on Thursdays. Costs; 450yen. Phone number; 0965458814

Hananoshou (Hitoyoshi)

The large outdoor pool is set in a grassy area, with good views of the mountains.
Opening times; 1000-2400. Costs; 500yen. Phone number; 0966221126
It is on the 219, just before the Kumamoto Expressway.
Amakusa

Yurakutei

There is a cave onsen - with water piped in through large bamboo pools. The onsen water is a rusty-red colour.
It is located on the 266 on mainland Amakusa after the 5 bridges. You can take a bus from Misumi station on the Kumamoto mainland to the onsen (25 minutes). Opening times; 0900 - 2100. Costs; 500yen. Phone number; 0964560536

Syofukaku

There are fine sea views from this water-side onsen. You are somewhat exposed to passing boats however!
Directions; On the 266 on mainland Amakusa after the bridges.
Opening times; 0600-0900 and 1100-2200. Costs; 500yen. Phone number; 09695601111

Jipang

There is a large outdoor rocky pool surrounded by woodland.
Directions; On the 266 after the 5 bridges.
Opening times; 1300-2200 (at weekends 1100-2200)Costs; 500yen
Phone number; 0969560266

Rippleland

The Rippleland complex is a modern onsen center next to Shirogahama beach.
It is on the 326 on the north coast of Amakusa.
Opening times; 1000-2100 (closed 2nd Wednesdays). Costs; 400yen. Phone number; 0969531126