August 21, 2002 | Coastal cruising teaches you to be flexible and to keep you options open because your next anchorage depends on the weather forecast and the ever changing wind direction. And this year we had to add ice into the equation. When last we wrote we had finally gotten past the ice and around Cape Harrison and were proceeding north along the Labrador coast.

The ice had been persistent along the Northern Labrador coast. Nain would be our last opportunity to get a current ice chart which I was able to get from the Dept. of Fisheries. It showed that there was a large pack of heavy sea ice that was slowly moving en masse south and was currently at Cape Mugford, 2 days north of Nain, and blocking our progress north. We took this as a sign that we should make a break for Greenland but we'd have to leave immediately since within a few days the ice would be offshore from Nain. We left that evening for an anchorage east of Nain and starting preparing for the crossing. I started preparing food (in case the weather was bad and I was seasick), stowing things that might toss around the cabin, etc. We got up before sunrise and started out, a beautiful and calm morning. We listened to the 7:30 am weather forecast, something we do each morning and evening, and heard that gale force winds were forecast for the West Labrador Sea, directly in our path. It would be unwise for us to get ourselves in a position where we'd be in gale force winds and in heavy ice. So we abandoned our plans to try for Greenland and decided to slowly continue our way north and hope that eventually the ice along the coast would clear. The positive was that we had discovered a very nice anchorage where we stayed for 2 days, hiking and reading. While hiking we were able to actually see the pack ice as it was slowly making it's way south. Good thing we had decided to abandoned Greenland.

The Nain High School Principal had told Mark that he had been up to Port Manvers, approximately 40 miles north of Nain through an inside route, a few days before we arrived in Nain, and there was a lot of ice on the outside. The ice chart showed ice at Cape Kiglaplait just north of Port Manvers. Fortunately, the ice had cleared as we existed Port Manvers and we proceeded around Cape Kiglaplait and into Mugford, or so we thought. We had just rounded Cape Kiglaplait when we ran into ice again. It's the unknown that makes choices difficult but there was an anchorage we knew of an inlet west of our route so we pushed through the ice for a mile, fortunately finding clear waters and able to continue onto a new anchorage for us.

Three days later we tried again and found that the ice had cleared and our passage open. That was the last time our progress was impeded due to ice. It amazes us how fast the ice moves - one day it's there, the next it's gone. Next destination Saglek Fjord. We had anchored just inside the fjord in 2000 and had wanted to visit in 2001 but didn't so this year we were determined to explore the North Arm, highly recommended by Chris Law. And we weren't disappointed - it was spectacular! The passage narrows and the cliffs get steeper as you proceed up the fjord. And for me, Nancy, the geology incredible. As Chris Law says, "..some of the best hiking in all the Labrador." On our way out we past a small local boat headed up the North Arm. We later met 2 older Canadian men who were on the boat and who were spending a week in the area kayaking.

We were beginning to enjoy an Arctic High and the weather forecast favorable so we decided to make a break for Cape Chidley offshore and entered Bowdoin Harbour the next afternoon. In 2001 we had wanted to visit Bowdoin Harbour but a heavy sea had prevented us from entering, a very narrow entrance. But the seas were calm and entering easy. There is nothing there except rock, ice fields and water but it's incredible. We kept a watchful eye for polar bears, carrying a shotgun when on shore. The next day we went onto O'Brien Harbour, again under blue skies and calm seas. Chris Law had a cairn on the SW ridge with a bottle and note inside that we wanted to hike to and add our own note.

We were up early the next morning preparing for the hike to the cairn. I wanted to get photos and video before the light became harsh. I was inside the boat getting cameras ready and Mark had gone above to prepare the dingy. Next thing I heard was Mark loudly whispering "Nancy, quick, bring the cameras, there's a polar bear swimming around the boat!" It took me a second to understand what was going on but I quickly grabbed the video camera and hurried above. I tentatively peered over the side looking for the our visitor and saw this white furry head along side. I can't describe the feeling - I was excited and scarred at the same time. Meanwhile, Mark went below to grab the still camera and shotgun and came above carrying both, one in each hand. Slowly "Binkie" made he way to the stern and casually, or so it seemed, looked up at us with his cute face, and bumping into the dingy. He floated at the stern a few moments then just drifted off to shore, about 150 yards away. He seemed at first to be a young bear, but as he slowly made his way to shore and got up on rock he didn't seem so small. It all happened so fast that I'm not sure how much video I took, I wanted to reach out and touch him. Binkie spent the next 24 hours, and probably longer, napping and sunning on the rocks, not a care in the world, and definitely unconcerned about us. Needless to say, we did not go ashore to visit the Law's cairn - having an inflatable we didn't want to chance the bear destroying the dingy, something they are known to do. Instead we spent the whole day just watching our visitor. The next morning we picked up anchor and departed, but not before going as close to shore and Binkie as we could, shooting photos and video like crazy. We still think back on it and can't believe our luck.

Having lost some time waiting for ice to clear we decided not to go for Baffin Island. It just didn't make sense to go all that way just to anchor a night and head back. That will have to wait for another cruise.

We are now on our way south, currently in Makkovik, doing laundry, fueling, getting provisions, etc., and slowly re-assimilating back into civilization. We have only seen one other yacht, a British couple a few days ago in Nain, since leaving Corner Brook, Newfoundland. We expect to run into someone now that we're further south doing the GIUK (Greenland, Iceland, Great Britain - in the other order). We are headed for the North Shore of Quebec and a rendezvous with Chris and Annie Law.

As usual, don't know when we'll have an opportunity to email again. Hope everyone have had a good summer - our's has been great!