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June 21, 2002 |
The Tamara has been on it's current voyage for three weeks.
Currently the Tamara has traveled up the east coast of Nova
Scotia and traveled through Bras D'Or Lakes, Cape Breton Island.
The Tamara has crossed over to the west coast of Newfoundland
and is currently in Corner Brook about half way up Newfoundland.
Mark and Nancy have plans to continue up the Newfoundland coast
to Port Au Choix and then cross over to the southern coast of
Labrador, and travel up the Labrador coast. There is still ice
on the Labrador coast north of Cartwright but we're hoping it
will be gone when we get there in approximately two weeks.
From north Labrador we will cross over to Frobisher Bay, Baffin
Island. Then cross to Greenland, a big maybe. Back down the
Labrador coast and continue southwest along the north coast
of Quebec (this will be new to us.) Finally back to Cape Breton
and on to Maine.
The success of this trip, like the two previous adventures,
will depend greatly on the sea ice. To find out what's involved
in a safe North Atlantic voyage click
here or get the June 2002 issue of Blue Water Sailing
and read Nancy and Mark's article on page 44.
July
3, 2002 | We arrived in Battle Harbour June 28th
after stopping in L'Anse aux Loop (Schooner Cove) and Chateau
Bay, both on the south Labrador coast. The number of small bergs
visible increased each day we moved north as compared to previous
years when we'd maybe have seen a few. There was a big
tabular berg (picture 4) just outside Battle Harbour when
we arrived but it has shrunk quite a bit since we arrived. The
view from here of the Straits of Belle Isle has been spectacular
with as many as 15 bergs visible at one time. Gale force winds
have blown the last couple of days (from the SW, helping to
clear the ice from the coast) but we're hoping to leave tomorrow
and slowly make our way north. The bergs are clearly visible
posing no problem to our progress. The last ice report we saw
while in Corner Brook a week ago had the ice at Cape Harrison,
a 3 day sail from Battle Harbour. To date we've met 2 boats
- one hoping to make Greenland and the other circumnavigating
Newfoundland, none heading to Northern Labrador (it's still
a bit early for most).
I've attached some photos I took
in Battle Harbour with our very funky digital camera but they'll
give you an idea of the area. We're able to check email here
and maybe in Makkovik, about 10 days from here. North of Makkovik
there will be no way to check email.
July 20, 2002 |
By the number of icebergs we were seeing from Battle Harbour,
on the southern coast of Labrador, the ice pack might be later
than last year in clearing the coast. All the ice charts we
had seen showed that there was still ice at Cape Harrison. During
our 5 days at Battle Harbour we'd go to the top of the island
and enjoy the spectacular view of the southern coast and Belle
Isle. One day we saw a long, narrow patch of loose pack ice
off in the distance.
July 4th we took off again hoping that the way would be clear
by the time we reached Groswater Bay. On July 6th we heard the
m/v Sir Robert Bond, a small passenger/freighter coming out
of Goose Bay, on the VHF radio. We hailed her to see if they
had word on the ice conditions. The word was that there was
still ice at Cape Harrison. Knowing it might be days before
we could proceed north, and wanting to do "city" business,
we decided to head into Cartwright. And while in Cartwright
we knew we could check current ice charts on the web.
Cartwright (Photo 6) is
a community of about 500 people. While there we paid bills;
bought provisions; tried to take a hike everyday; and got invited
to dinner one night. If it was sunny and no wind, the black
flies were treacherous. After a week, the ice chart started
to look promising and we needed to feel we were making progress,
so we took off once again.
A few hours out of town we began to see lose pack ice on the
horizon and about half way across Groswater Bay we realized
that we were going to have to alter our course westward (to
shore) if we wanted to clear the ice. A large tongue of ice
had come into the Bay and was too thick for us to punch through.
There was enough space to the West to push through and we continued
to the north shore. But once we reached the north shore our
way was blocked again and we were forced to head 15 miles west
up Harrison Inlet to anchor for the next 2 nights.
On July 17th we tried again and were able to get into Smokey
Tickle, an outpost on the north side of Groswater Bay. The following
morning was clear and sunny and we left early to make our attempt
at clearing Cape Harrison and reaching clear, inside waters.
The sea was littered with many small icebergs and remnants of
the pack ice, but the way was clear and after waiting for over
2 weeks we finally (Photo
7) rounded Cape Harrison. Last year we had rounded Cape
Harrison 10 days earlier.
We're currently in Makkovik taking on fuel and will leave by
10 am this morning (July 20, 2002) for Hopedale. There shouldn't
be any more problems with ice until we reach the north Labrador
and that's almost a week away. This will probably we our last
opportunity for e-mail for a while.
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