Patan
    Patan, the second-largest city in the valley, lies just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu, but it's a much quieter and less frenetic place to visit. The city is justly proud of its temples and artisans and it is their handiwork that provides the focus of the stunning Durbar Square - choc-a-block with the largest display of Newari architecture in Nepal. It includes the Royal Palace, which contains a richly decorated bathtub, and the two-tiered brick Jagannarayan Temple. Look up to the roof struts to see carvings of figures engaged in quite athletic acts of intercourse.

A few minutes' walk north of the square is the Golden Temple, a Buddhist monastery guarded by sacred tortoises that potter around the courtyard; and the Kumbeshawar, reputedly the oldest (1392) temple in Patan. South of the square is an area of charming streets lined with metalsmiths and brassware shops.

Patan's other attractions are flung further afield. Among them is a collection of four stupas, thought to have been built over 2500 years ago, and Nepal's only zoo, which features a reasonable assortment of rhinos, tigers, leopards and bird life. Palm readers gather in the park outside - they may be able to point out which animal you'll be reincarnated as. Tibetan carpets can be bought in Jawlakhel, east of the city.

It's an easy 5km (3mi) from Thamel in Kathmandu to Patan and you can get there by bicyle, taxi, bus, or tempo.

Bhaktapur
    Bhaktapur is in many ways the most medieval of the three major cities in the Kathmandu Valley. Despite recent development, the city still retains a distinctly timeless air with much of its glorious architecture dating from the end of the 17th century. Most sights can be easily traversed by foot and include yet another Durbar Square, which is infinitely larger than Kathmandu's and has its fair share of temples, statues and columns, many with grisly histories behind them. For instance, the sculptor of the Ugrachandi & Bhairab Statues had his hands chopped off to prevent him from duplicating his masterpieces.

Bhakatapur's second main square is Taumadhi Tole, which features Nyatapola, the highest temple in the valley, and Til Mahadev Narayan, an important place of pilgrimage. Nearby is Potters' Square, where thousands of clay pots are made and sold. East from here, through the sinuous streets of the old city centre, is Tachupal Tole, another square containing temples and monasteries plus craft museums.

Sometimes it's best to take a break from temples and sit back and watch the unchanging rituals of daily life: the laying out of grain to dry in the sun; families collecting water or washing under communal taps; children playing simple games; dyed yarns flapping in the breeze; or potters at work throwing clay.

Bhaktapur is about 35km (22mi) south east of Kathmandu's city centre and is easily reached by bus, minibus or trolley bus. You may have second thoughts about the minibuses, though, as they are overcrowded and can turn a 35 minute trip into an hour long torture; the Chinese trolley-buses are a better option.

Around the Kathmandu Valley
    Apart from Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, there are a number of other fascinating villages, temples and stupas scattered around the valley. One of these is probably the best known site in Nepal - the Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath. The temple is colloquially known as the 'monkey temple', after the large tribe of garrulous monkeys which guard the hill, amusing visitors and devotees with their tricks, including sliding gracefully down the long double bannisters of the main stairway. The soaring central stupa is topped by an aureate block featuring the watchful eyes of Buddha. Set around the base is a continuous series of prayer wheels which pilgrims, circumambulating the stupa, spin as they pass by.

Beyond Swayambhunath, on the banks of the Bagmati River, is Pashupatinath, the country's pre-eminent Hindu temple and one of the most significant Shiva temples on the subcontinent. As the Bagmati is a holy river, Pashupatinath has become a popular place to be cremated - the ghats (river steps) immediately in front of the temple are reserved for the cremation of royalty, while those a little further south are for the riff-raff.

Another site with a religious bent is the huge stupa of Bodhnath, which is the largest in the country and among the largest in the world. It's also the centre for Nepal's considerable population of Tibetans. Late afternoon is a good time to visit. This is when prayer services are held and the locals turn out to walk around the stupa (if you want to join in, remember to walk in a clockwise direction). Surrounding Bodhnath are a number of monasteries, but be discreet and respectful if you intend visiting them.

The valley also offers plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track, with treks to and from the resort villages of Nagarkot and Dhulikhel; wallowing in Tatopani's hot springs; exploring cloud forests in Pulchowki; and mountain biking in the regions of Chapagaon and Bungamati.

Most of the valley attractions around Kathmandu can be reached on foot but the easiest way to get around is by bicyle. If that sounds a bit too energetic, consider hiring a taxi for the day.

The Terai
    If you come to Terai expecting snow-clad mountains and jaw-dropping vistas you'll soon be disappointed. What you get instead is hot subtropical plains and some of the most fascinating attractions in Nepal. Foremost among them is the magnificent Royal Chitwan National Park, once the hunting ground for British and Nepalese aristocrats. Today, the animals - elephant, rhinoceros, tiger, leopard and deer - are protected, not shot. Probably the greatest thrill here is to scout for wildlife on the back of an elephant. If that's too uncomfortable, you can do the same thing in a jeep or canoe or go jungle walking with experienced guides. Watch out for leeches, which operate with stealth-like efficiency during the monsoon.

Janakpur is an attractive city, bustling with tourists - Indian pilgrims that is, not Western backpackers. The city's religious significance is due to its role as the birthplace of Sita (Rama's wife in the Hindu epic Ramayana). During festivals, when vignettes from the Ramayana are re-enacted, it almost feels as if the ancient myth has come to life. If you can overcome its bewildering tangle of streets, Janakpur is packed with worthwhile sights including temples, pilgrim hostels and tiny sacred ponds. On the city's outskirts is the Janakpur Women's Development Centre, a must-see if you're interested in traditional painting and ceramics or the role of women in local society.Beautiful Devghat and Lumbini, now confirmed as the birthplace of Buddha, are also important devotional sites in the Terai.

Janakpur is over 135km (84mi) from Kathmandu and, a little less than that to the Chitwan National Park. A number of airlines fly to destinations within the Terai, but the most popular mode of transport is bus, more through economic necessity than choice. Usually they are overcrowded, stopping-all-stations affairs that leave you battered and bruised. If you've got a bit of extra cash, hiring a car is a comfortable way to see the region or, alternatively, a good mountain bike will get you there, back and around.

Pokhara
    The city of Pokara is renowned for its setting rather than its historical or cultural endowments. Its quiet lakeside location and proximity to the mountains mean it is an ideal place for recovering from (or gearing up for) a trek, taking leisurely strolls or simply putting your nose in a good book. And wouldn't you know it, Pokhara has some of the country's best accommodation and restaurants as well. There's a batch of Tibetan settlements, a hilltop monastery and the pretty Devi Falls nearby. Day walks can be taken to Sarangkot (1592m), the limestone caves at Mahendra Gufa or Rupa and Begnas Tals lakes. More exertion (but not much more) will be required to tackle the three to four-day Annapurna Skyline Trek.

There are daily flights between Pokhara and Kathmandu. For Himalayan views sit on the right-hand side if you're heading to Pokhara and the left if heading to Kathmandu. The bus trip between the two towns takes about eight hours.

Off the Beaten Path

Dakshinkali
    At the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley, in a dark, somewhat spooky location, stands the temple of Dakshinkali. The temple is dedicated to the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva's consort in her most sanguinary incarnation. Twice a week, Nepalese journey here to satisfy her bloodlust. They bring buffaloes, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep and pigs, which are matter-of-factly despatched by having their throats slit or heads lopped off. These animals, some still writhing, are then dragged to a nearby stream where they are butchered for a feast at a later date. The blood runs freely every Saturday and especially during the October festival of Dasain when the image of Kali is literally bathed in the stuff.

Some 20km (12mi) from the city centre, Dakshinkali is just a crowded bus trip away (albeit only on the important days of sacrifice; Tuesdays and Saturdays). It's also an exhilarating mountain bike trip to the temple; 'exhilarating' in this context meaning lots of steep hills with terrific views as the ultimate pay-off.

Nagarjun forest reserve
    The walled Nagarjun forest reserve, north-west of Kathmandu, is filled with live pheasant, deer and other animals. This is one of the last significant areas of untouched forest in the Kathmandu Valley. Nearby is a popular Buddhist pilgrimage site, a number of limestone caves and a small lookout with commanding views over the countryside. The main entrance to the reserve is a 20-minute bicycle ride from Thamel; the walking trails begin just inside the gate.

Daman
    South-west of Kathmandu, midway between the capital and Hetauda, Daman is situated 2322m (7616ft) above sea level. It claims to have the most spectacular outlook on the Himalaya - an unimpeded panorama of snowcaps from Dhaulagiri to Mt Everest. If the mountains are in cloud when you arrive, you can stay at the ramshackle viewing tower and catch the peaks in the morning. If it's spring, check out the rhododendron forest on the southern side of the village. There are also great views over the Terai to India from here.

Daman is three hours by car or four hours by bus from Kathmandu. Unfortunately, there is only one bus a day in each direction. If you're feeling adventurous, this is one of the most spectacular and gruelling mountain-bike routes in the world.