This entry was posted on 2001-04-13
Tokyo and Nagano
Today was my last day in Tokyo before heading off to Kyoto. Leave it to me to spend it somewhere other than Tokyo. But it's not a huge deal because I already have ryokan reservations in Tokyo for three nights after Kyoto and I'll most likely stay more than three nights. Before I left the States, I was planning on heading south, down to Kyushu after Kyoto. But since the sakura have wilted away in Kyushu a long time ago, I'll probably head back up here. Besides, I've been to Kyushu (all over, Miyazaki, Nagasaki, Fukuoka, Kumamoto, Oita, Saga. . .) a number of times already. Hiroshima (which is also southwest of Kyoto) is also out because of all Japanese cities, Hiroshima is the one I have visited the most. And besides, I don't think I can bear to see (emotionally) the a-bomb museum at this point. So it'll probably be Kyoto and then back to Tokyo where I will take several daytrips to sakura hotspots (with a JR pass that is really easy (and free!) to do).
That is just what I did today. But hold on, I am getting ahead of myself. The day started off rather peaceful. I heard about a real onsen (remember, natural (not tap) spring water?) right here, in Shinjuku. So I decided to give it a try. I am glad that I did because it was a-w-e-s-o-m-e! The water was the color of brown tea (though very clean and non-staining) and was very warm. The rotenburo (outside bath...don't worry, it's private and secluded, not in the middle of a sidewalk) had the same spring water, but much cooler. It felt good going from the hot to the cold bath. There was a sauna room made of natural cedar wood. Very beautiful. And as onsen are supposed to be, very relaxing. My feet no longer ache. I'm not sure what the healing power of the water there is supposed to be (I totally forgot to read the signs), but I felt really good after leaving the place.
The Kyoto area has some amazing onsen and I plan to try a lot of them out. . .
After my natural, relaxing bath, I came back to the place where I am staying to grab my guidebook (which I ad forgotten to take). As usual, I flipped the television on. I am glad I did because right then they were giving the sakura report (Where in Japan the sakura are fully in bloom. I'm not making this up. I swear. This country is so obsessed (and rightfully so) with the sakura that everyday, on the news, they show a map of where they are at their peak). I learned that today the sakura are at their peak in Nagano. Nagano! I used to love Nagano! And the best thing is, Nagano can be easily reached in 1 hour and 40 minutes from Tokyo by shinkansen. Without even thinking about it, I grabbed my stuff and headed for Tokyo station where I would catch a train to Nagano.
By the time I got to Tokyo station (Chuo line from Shinjuku to Tokyo-eki for all you Japan rail buffs), it was nearly 2pm. It took me a while to get my act together once at the station (for some reason I felt really relaxed and slow). I also decided to reserve a seat on the train (There are cars for non-reserved seats, but I was really adamant about getting a window seat to see the sakura as the train whizzed by. For people without JR passes, reserved seats cost extra money. That is why many opt for non-reserved seats). By the time my train pulled out of Tokyo-eki, it was about 3pm or so. Perfect. I'd get to Nagano at around 5pm, have about an hour and a half with the sakura (I didn't need to see anything else in Nagano since I have been there many times), and catch a 6:30-7pm-ish train back to Tokyo.
(Yes, I realize that I am officially a certified nut case, but I'm crazy about sakura. So sue me...)
The train reached Nagano right on time (trains and busses here are always on time). I ran to the Tourist Information Office and asked the woman where the best place to see the sakura is. She told me to go to the park near Zenkoji (Nagano's most famous temple). The busses run frequently and it only takes about 10 minutes to get there. And the ride is cheap... 150 yen (a little less than $1.50 US), a steal of a deal in Japan!
I went to the bus stop. And waited. And waited. And waited. This was a real first, something in Japan was actually late (I attributed that to rush hour, but usually bus schedules take rush hour into consideration). When the bus finally came, I prayed that it would really only be a 10 minute ride. At the rate I was going, I'd have less than a half an hour with the sakura before having to catch the bus back to Nagano-eki to be on time for my 6:28pm departure back to Tokyo.
Thankfully the bus ride was pretty quick (not exactly 10 minutes, but no more than 15). I got to the park and was immediately transformed into another world. The World of the Sakura.
If you haven't figured it out by now, I love those whiteish/pinkish flowers. I suppose I do border on obsession. But trust me, they are absolutely beautiful. And when I get home and scan my pictures in, you will see for yourself. It is easy to understand the Japanese obsession for their national flower. Part of their beauty is that their peak is only a few days. Mono no aware. (a Japanese literary concept -- beauty in tragedy). At the garden in Nagano, they were exceptionally beautiful with the temple buildings in the backdrop.
And they sure were at their peak. The flowers were blooming and not yet wilting. A lot of Nagano locals had come out to see them. I knew I visited Nagano on the right day.
I took about twenty pictures (I am going to bore everyone back home with my jizo and sakura pictures!). I asked a nice Japanese man to take my picture with a beautiful sakura tree. His wife commented that my love for sakura shows that I truly understand the Japanese soul. Wow! That's the only time I've ever been told that I understand the Japanese mindset! Usually they think that themselves and their country (and their language. Especially their language) is complicated and can never be truly understood by foreigners. That was truly a compliment (much more sincere, much rarer than "nihongo wa joozu desune" -- your Japanese is good, which you hear every time you utter a word in Japanese).
Holyfuck. I was transformed back to reality when I glanced at my watch. I needed to run to the damn bus stop. If I missed the next bus, I'd have to take the one after that which would get me to the station about 2 minutes before my train departure time. Too risky! I tore across the street, probably starting the motorists (it's not everyday that they get to witness a foreigner dart out of nowhere). Just as I got to the bus stop, the bus pulled away. Shit! Shit! Shit! I kicked myself and sat down to wait 10 minutes for the next one. It had better be on time or else I'd miss the shinkansen back to Tokyo. If I missed that train, the next one would get me back to Tokyo too late.
Every five seconds I looked at my watch. About two minutes before the bus was due to arrive, I got out my change purse to have the fare ready. Holyfuck #2. I had about five cents in coins left. I dug my wallet out. All I had in there was a 5,000 yen bill (about $50). Uhhhh, I couldn't pay the bus fare of $1.50 (and expect change!) with a $50 bill! What the hell was I supposed to do? There were no stores in sight, nowhere to run, get change, and race back to the bus stop, all in two minutes. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a tiny ice cream stand. Ok, Karen, time to fucken dart! I'm no runner, but I needed to run live I've never ran before. I raced to the ice cream shop. Shit. No attendant on duty. I cried out "sumimasen" (excuse me) about five times. No response. Oops. I looked down to a small bell mounted on the counter. Like a rude asshole, I rang it three times in a row. An elderly Japanese man came down. I didn't have time to politely ask him for change, so I just harshly asked. I felt bad, but there was nothing else I could do. It took him (what seemed like) years to count out five 1,000 yen bills (all busses except 1,000 yen bills and give change). I hurriedly thanked him and darted back to the bus. I really do believe in superpowers in moments of desperation (you know, if someone is attacking you, you instantly gain the strength to pick up a heavy object and throw it), because I ran reeeeallly fast. Just as I arrived back to the bus stop, the bus pulled up. I stepped on and breathed a long sigh of relief.
About halfway to the station, I realized that I hadn't had anything to eat all day. But by some miracle, I wasn't tired. By the time the bus got to the station, I'd have no time to run to a convenient store and buy something (anything) to eat. I really hoped that they'd be selling food (besides chicken and fish bento meals) on the train.
When the bus pulled into the station, I paid my fare and scaled the escalator. I had to push people aside (but that's ok, I see that all the time in Japan). I said a lot of "sumimasens"! I showed the shinkansen gatekeeper my rail pass, scaled yet another escalator up to the platform, and ran on to the train (which was waiting because it started in Nagano). Again, another long sigh of relief. After I got my act together, calmed down, and put my bag up, I went to the front of the car to look for food. Luckily they were selling chocolate covered almonds. Not at all healthy, but when you haven't eaten all day, chocolate covered almonds make a delicious dinner.
I received another nice compliment today. I've already told you that the Japanese just loooove to tell you that your Japanese language skills are good (even when you can barely mutter "konnichiwa"). But I've never heard "nihongo wa pera pera desu ne" (fluent) before. Tonight in Tokyo, someone told me that my Japanese is fluent (which it is far from, by the way) because I was listening, laughing, and telling jokes with a group of Osaka natives. It was nice to hear, though. Ok, so my Japanese isn't fluent, but I am waaaaay beyond "konnichiwa!"
I am back here in Tokyo now. I am pretty much packed and ready to leave for Kyoto (and I'm leaving myself plenty of time tomorrow so that I don't have a stress-filled repeat of today) in the morning. Now all I need is a long shower and a goodnight sleep.
Mata ashita (from Kyoto!)...