ballyshannon2
It is obvious that the pickling or salting of Erne salmon was flourishing from a very ancient date. In the early Plantation period the harvesting of the salmon and eels here and all the way to Lower Lough Erne was granted to the Ffolliott Estate. This was strongly contested by the Caldwells about and above Belleek but in a sort of compromise the Caldwells operated the weirs and paid for the privilege to the Ffolliots and later the Connolly Estate. In the records of the Connolly Estate there are numerous records of the operation of the local salmon fishery and of interest is the period of John Daniel who found out that lack of local knowledge was a serious deficiency.
John Daniel had leased the Ballyshannon Fishery from the Connolly Estate and began working it in 1797-98. He laid in a supply of salt, vinegar, barrel staves and hoops in preparation for preserving and packing the salmon. At the end of the season the preserved fish were shipped to Cork and from there to the Caribbean. Unfortunately for Daniel his first cargo came to grief in a fashion very reminiscent of how Ballyshannon�s existence as a port came to an end. The ship for Cork set out on a windy Sunday evening in September but got no more than two miles down the channel before running aground on Wardtown Strand. The ship seemed quite damaged and her skipper was apprehensive of getting her off. John Hanly was the pilot on that evening and Daniel was naturally furious with him and suggested that any other pilot would have taken her out successfully. Local people from the area and people of the locality helped in removing the fish but were soon clamouring for recompense for their labours. Daniel was suspicious of connivance between the pilot and the local people but could prove nothing. He was so harassed by these people that in the end he though it better to stay as much as possible indoors. Finally he had to sell the damaged cargo to the insurers at a loss. In December of 1799 a ship with a cargo of beef and butter ran aground in much the same spot as before but this time he employed others to salvage the cargo. This time he was not insured and his term harvesting the Erne came to an end soon after.
The Norwegian ship Hawkerman captained by Captain Throw was wrecked at Ballyshannon the 27th of March, 1812. It is almost certainly carrying timber to Ballyshannon. As we enter the modern newspaper age we get more information re shipping and shipping losses. In the Erne Packet of January 8th, 1824 it states under the heading of - THE LATE STORM - The effects of the late storm have been severely felt on the Western coast, and we learn from some of our correspondents, that considerable damage has been sustained. Several parts of wreck have come in at Bundoran, and at Rossnowlagh Strand, below Ballyshannon. At the latter place, a barrel of flour in good order, and at the former, part of the stern of a vessel. The masts and part of the hull of a brig, are visible near to Mullaghmore, midway between Ballyshannon and Sligo, supposed to be a brig that left Sligo some days before for Liverpool, laden with oats.
On the 24th ult. The Triton from Whitehaven, coal laden, was wrecked at Ballyshannon. She got safely over the Bar about three quarters of a mile, and was proceeding up the channel, when she grounded. Before the next tide after, the storm set in with such violence that she was drove among a reef of rocks where she became a complete wreck; but we are happy to add, that none of the persons on board perished. About sixty tons of the cargo were saved.
A flute, tambourine, and several other articles have been cast on shore below Mount Charles, in Donegal Bay, supposed to be from the Arab, sloop of war, lately lost off Broadhaven.
Now we also begin to get some idea of the port traffic of the time and of the chief mercantile families who used the port of Ballyshannon. The Erne Packet - May 19th, 1824 - T. KERNOHAN - Begs leave to inform his friends and customers, that he has this day landed at Ballyshannon, by the Ragnhild, Thomas Thompson, Master, a cargo of 8 feet PLANK and BATTENS, which, with CROWN, MEMEL TIMBER, (Memel timber from East Prussia/Lithuania) and every article in the building line, he is determined to sell for Ready Money, lower than they can be had from any other port. Enniskillen, May 19th, 1824.
Likewise the Erne Packet, October 21st, 1824 - The following ships have arrived in Ballyshannon for James Mc Gowan � MERCHANDIZE - The subscriber has arrived to him the following vessels, viz. - The Anne Captain Anderson from Dumbarton & Glasgow with a Cargo consisting of R. C. and C. C. Crown Window Glass, 10 gross wine bottles, a quantity of Metal Ware of different kinds and 40 tons Malting coal. The Eagle Captain Williams from Liverpool with general cargo consisting of British Bar Iron of different scantlings, Nail Rod, Horse Nail and Sheet Iron, Iron Hoops, Chains and Back bands, Sheet Lead, Patent Shot, Tin, Tar, Oak Staves, Oils and Colours, earthenware, crockery ware and 70 tons of best Wigan coal. The Diamond, Captain Turner, from Bangor with a cargo of slates consisting of � Queen, Ton, Duchess�s & Ladies� slates. He has on sale a quantity of , Red and Yellow Pine Timber, Black Birch, 8, 12, 14 feet plank etc. JAMES MAGOWAN, Ballyshannon 9th, October, 1824
Emigration and improved prospects for trade emerge from The Erne Packet of July 10th, 1827. We are much pleased to learn that there is every prospect of improvement in the trade and business of Ballyshannon. There never have been so many vessels at the quay at one time as during the past week. On Friday the Mayflower sailed from the port for St. John�s with passengers, and on the Tuesday the Martha, with passengers also for the same place.
However the butter market did not get off to a good start. From The Erne Packet July 26th, 1827. The new Butter Market of Ballyshannon commenced on Friday last. There were upwards of 300 casks offered for sale, but the prices demanded being greater than the purchasers could reasonably afford, a large quantity remained unsold. The prices given were for firsts, 9d per pound, seconds 81/2d, thirds, 71/2d.
Poaching has always been a feature of any major fishery and down the centuries the Erne has been no exception. One recently deceased Ballyshannon veteran declared that he never had a suit that did not come out of the river. The ongoing war between the owners of the commercial fishery at Ballyshannon and the local Ballyshannon poachers can be seen in the The Erne Packet of July 10th, 1827. Outrage � On Saturday night last, some ruffians removed a boat belonging to Simon Shiel Esq. Of Ballyshannon, from her mooring near the distillery of this town, and conveyed her to Pottora stream, where they cut a large hole in her bow, filled her with stones from the quarry at that place, and sunk her. The mast which appeared a few inches above the water led to her recovery. After some labour and difficulty she was emptied of her contents and raised. This boat has been used by the water-keepers and Superintendents for the preservation of the Fish in this neighbourhood, and is supposed to have been sunk by persons against whom prosecutions have been brought for poaching. There are well grounded suspicions of the perpetrators, who may expect, and who we hope will meet with, due punishment for such a flagrant offence. The word �Portora� used here may be an alternative name to Portnamarbh i.e. the port of the dead. The dead were brought to this point on the south bank to be conveyed across the bay for burial at Abbey Assaroe. Lamentation began at the Abbey but proceedings here were in silence. In this case Portora may translate as the port of prayer. A similarly named spot near Enniskillen was similarly the beginning of the deceased�s journey down the Erne for burial on Devenish Island.
A second abortive scheme to improve Ballyshannon Harbour is seen in the Ballyshannon Herald on February 1st 1833. The celebrated Mr. Stevenson, the Engineer reported on his plan to improve the Harbour of Ballyshannon. This plan intended simply to deepen the Bar and �Patch� to the extent of three feet, and the removal of a portion of the Black Rock. This was estimated to cost about �5,500 with an extention to the quay to cost about a further �400. A connection to Belleek was to be made by a tramway at a cost of �18,000. Among Ballyshannon�s industries at this time which the new facilities would cater for were, fish salters, bacon curers, salt manufacturers, brewers, distillers, soap boilers, gun makers, confectioners, nurserymen, breeches makers, dyers, weavers, linen dealers, iron exporters, direct wine merchants and tobacco and snuff merchants. An early distillery operated at the head of the town and later a better situated one began in 1827 on the site of the Old Manor Mill near the bridge. In full operation this produced almost 100,000 gallons annually. Ropemaking which was an important maritime industry was carried on by the Gillespie family whose relations in Letterkenny carried on the same business.
Salt was manufactured at Portnason and across the estuary at Milltown beside Abbey Assaroe. Boats could be sent out to collect salt water and it was also brought in via large barges towed by horses plodding or wading along the edge of the sands. Kelp made from seaweed was much used in glass making and salt-boiling and later in the production of iodine. The seaweed was collected and dried in the open air generally across low stone walls and then burned in a kelp kiln, generally a rough circle of stones. The melted alkali collects in a hard bluish deposit at the bottom of the kiln. Seaweed was also taken and used as a fertiliser by local farmers all round the Irish coast.
All of this trade required a large Custom House Staff which operated from the premises built by Sir Henry Caldwell in the early 18th century. A house near �The Boat House Hole� was where bonded goods such as sugar were stored was approached by what was termed �The Dirty Causeway.� There were other �Bonding Yards� and stores along the Mall. In 1831, 61 coasting vessels and 12 foreign vessels entered the port with a total tonnage of 5,600 tons.
Ballyshannon was never a major emigrant port and many more local names than those on surviving ship�s lists are seen on emigrant lists out of Derry or Sligo. When there was no local emigrant ships those searching for a better life had to �foot it� to wherever ships were available. Some marked their rite of emigration with tears and lamentations while others marked it with the bottle and fist as noted in the Ballyshannon Herald - April 2nd, 1833. - MARTIAL LAW IN BALLINTRA. On Monday last a number of persons left this town (Ballyshannon) on their way to Donegal and Derry to take shipping for America; they were accompanied by a vast concourse of friends, as a convoy, and it being a holyday they indulged freely in the native. (meaning poiteen) On arriving in Ballintra, the spirit moved them, and they commenced a regular battle � those about to take shipping in Donegal challenging those for Derry. In a short time the street was literally covered with the wounded on both sides. �The Ballintra Boys� imagining there had been enough fun for one day came out to make peace, but they were assailed with hisses and groans; they, however, seeing that the quarrel was confined to strangers, declined taking any further part than to order the �Town Marshall� to clear the street of the rioters; which he commenced to do very dexterously by knocking down a few who were so drunk as to be hardly able to stand, and within a few minutes this very useful officer had the town completely rid of the rioters without even reading the Riot Act; he then marched through the town, followed by his friends huzzawing for the Marshal and his law. No lives were lost but several were dangerously wounded; the street was red with blood. We learn that when they got to Donegal they had another set too but were put down by the police.
The MAYFLOWER had a story but otherwise uneventful voyage as her captain recounts after their voyage of four weeks and a day. There was no sickness and obviously not one of the so called, �coffin ships.�
Ballyshannon Herald - July 26th, 1833. - The following is an extract from a letter received from the Captain of the Brig Mayflower of this Port which sailed with passengers on May last. - Quebec 20th June 1833.- Sir, I take this opportunity to inform you of our safe arrival after a passage of 29 days, to the Quarantine ground, where in consequence of the good health and clean appearance of the passengers, we were released after 24 hours detention; I am now landing the passengers. I never experienced such severe weather as on this passage; indeed, the Mayflower astonished me by her well doing.
I am Dear Sir,
Yours etc.
H. Reid
The letter was addressed to Mr. James Mc Gowan. (Ballyshannon Ship owner)
In terms of surviving records, the Brig Zephyr and the year 1833 are important for Ballyshannon. The Zephyr sailed from Sligo and collected additional passengers at Ballyshannon. Depending on the weather and the size of the ship it may have stayed outside the Bar and had its passengers ferried out to it.
Port Sligo - Ballyshannon April 10th 1833. A list of passengers allowed to proceed on board the Brig Zephyr of Liverpool Burthen 161 Tons Navigated by 7 men Hugh McDonnell Master for St. John New Brunswick.
Galagher James, Labourer. Galagher Fany, Spinster. McHugh Andrew, Labourer. Duffy, Hanah, Spinster. Camble James, Labourer. Mealy Cathrin, Spinster. Boyle Patrick, Labourer. Magee John, Labourer. Dean Sally, Spinster. Gorman Miachel, Labourer. Quvan? James, Carpenter. Baird John, Carpenter Branan John, Carpenter. McCawley William, Labourer, Galagher Jane, Spinster. Calaghan John, Labourer, McGroity? James, Labourer. McKinet Mary, Spinster Daly Francis, Labourer. Daly Mary, Spinster. Willson Mary, Spinster. McCoulogh Robert, Labourer. Dannan Connell, Labourer. Danan Mary, Spinster, Vance? John, Weaver. Daily Francis, Labourer. Daily Kitty, Spinster, Lipset Christopher, Labourer. McDonagh William, Labourer. McDonagh Margret, Spinster. Kirkpatrick Andrew, Labourer. Long James, Labourer. Quin Cathrine, Spinster. Kirkpatrick Susan, Spinster. Thompson Crissey, Spinster. Diven? Bryan, Spinster?? McBriety Fanny, Spinster. McCawley John, Labourer. Elas Hugh, Labourer. Gallagher Patrick, Labourer. Gallagher Rose, Spinster.
The classic emigration vessels carried timber from America and passengers on the return journey as seen in this passenger list the second of the season for the Zephyr. The ship�s arrival in Ballyshannon is recorded in the Ballyshannon Herald of August 9th, 1833. - Arrived � Zepher � Master, Captain Mc Donald with a cargo of timber. Ten days later the ship sailed for New Brunswick having used some of its timber to erect makeshift bunks and other accommodation on board. Its outgoing human cargo is listed below:
"A list of passengers allowed to proceed on board the Zephyr of Donegal, burthen 161 tons, navigated by seven men besides Hugh McDonald, master, for St. John, N.B.
Crew:- McDonald Wm, (Hugh above), Master. Fitzpatrick Hu, Green John, Dowling Hu, Cunningham Jas., Tehan Danull, Jones Hugh. Custom House Ballyshannon 19 August 1833. Signed, J. Folinsbery, Coll.
Many ships picked up part of their emigrant cargo from a selection of ports which either the ship called at or the emigrants walked to. People from the Laghey area went to the little harbour at Mullinasole and were taken out in a rowing boat to join their emigrant ship at the Hassans. The Zephyr was obviously well known about this time with the following list probably containing some Ballyshannon names. Although the list is not dated three of the crew have the same names as above and suggest that this is a sailing from about the same time. List of passengers on board the Brig Zephyr from Donegal to St. Johns NB
Davys James, 20, McCafferty Thomas, 21, McCafferty Wina, 22, O'Donnell Jane, 23, O'Donnell Mary, 24, Harkin Susan, Harkin Margery, 25 Harkin Margaret Lynch Anne, Dougherty John, Gallagher Jiles, Gallagher Margret, Gallagher Mary McGarigal John, Carrigan James, Carrigan Mary, Griffith Elenor, Gallagher Margrett McCreedy James, Harn Catharine, Cunningham Margrett, Callaghan Hanah, Mulowny Rose, Hammond William, Gallagher Catharine, 6, Gallagher Margaret 5, McBreerty Anne, 6, Reid Robert, 6.
Ships Company:- McDonnell William, Master. Hughes John, Mate. Bruce William, Seaman, Fitzpatrick, Hugh. Green, James. Dunleavy, Frank. McCaddin, James. Armstrong, John, Cook. Note: No Date was shown in the original
Ballyshannon also had a shipwreck in 1833 when the Rose from Liverpool was wrecked on the 17th of January of that year. Hugh Allingham in his History of Ballyshannon in 1879 mentions the ship Josephine carrying a large number of emigrants in 1834 and of the brig Jane in 1836 with 100 passengers who were all industrious mechanics and farmers. This was a comfortably berthed and provided ship. In the same year the brig Hope and Charlotte (400 tons) left for Saint John, New Brunswick and in 1835 the Samuel Freeman and the Elizabeth sailed for the same port. The Charlotte is still sailing in 1846 for Mr. James Creden bringing timber to Ballyshannon.
St. John on the Bay of Fundy figures large in the history of Ballyshannon emigration. The reason why so many Ballyshannon ships sailed to St. John, New Brunswick was that many of them were built there originally. In addition ships had to a have a cargo in each direction to be economic and so Ballyshannon�s need for Canadian timber was matched in terms of cargo by numerous eager emigrants. Through time links were built up between St. John and Ballyshannon families settling there but primarily Partridge Island at St. John, New Brunswick was the first North American Quarentine Station more than 100 years before the better known Ellis Island etc. Immigrants had to pass through this before making their way to other parts of Canada or to the United States. It operated as a Quarentine Station from about 1785 until 1938 and over an initial 20 to 30 year period more than two million people passed through this checkpoint hoping for a better life. It is estimated that, in the early years, probably half of the people in Canada and the United States were first cleared at Partridge Island. In 1847, 600 hospitalised immigrants died here and more than 2,000, Catholics, Protestants and Jews are buried in the island�s six graveyards.
One recorded emigrant custom of the people of the townland of Ballygee townland and surrounding area, near Belleek involved a huge oak on the farm of Packy Slevin. Emigrants put their arms around the old oak as far as they were able and made a wish to be enables to return to Ireland to again embrace their ancient friend.
More heavy emigration is seen in 1835 as noted in the Enniskillen Chronicle, Thursday, April 21st, 1835. We never recollect so many persons emigrating as this season. In Derry three berths were taken before the vessels arrived. In Donegal, three vessels, (the property of the Messers. Mc Donald) have sailed with their full compliment; and another vessel, the property of Mr. Rankin, is daily expected, many passengers are already engaged. In this town (Ballyshannon), three vessels are to sail, each of which have the passenger list nearly filled.
The Benjamin under Captain Nickelson was wrecked on the 10th of December, 1835 on her way from Liverpool to Ballyshannon and earlier in the same year the dangers of the stormy seas can be seen from the Ballyshannon Herald reprinted in The Erne Packet of January 20th, 1835. The loss of life at sea is mirrored in the callous treatment of young life in Ballyshannon at the same time. Illigitimate or unwanted local children seemingly recieved short shrift in in the Erne.
On Tuesday last, a new-born infant, rolled in straw, with a cord tied around its neck, was found at the salmon boxes in the river of this town. This is the sixth infant found murdered within the last twelve months, and yet there has been little or no exertion on the part of the inhabitants to detect the wretched perpetrators of such diabolical acts. A small reward for their apprehension would prevent similar occurrences.
Dreadful loss of life. A number of boats from the North and Connaught shores, well manned, went out fishing for herring on Sunday night last; they were seen in our bay early on Monday morning, struggling through a severe snow storm, which became so great, that in a very short time all appearance of them was lost. On Tuesday five of the North boats were washed on shore, but there are no tidings of the crews, they must have perished; which allowing six men for each boat (the usual number) leaves a loss of thirty lives, many of whom have left wives and children to mourn their sad fate. There is no account of any of the other boats, it is feared they have all been lost, amounting it is supposed to 50 or 60, with 3 or 400 fishermen.
The topic of improving the port of Ballyshannon has already been noted as going back to at least 1750 and surfaces again in the Enniskillen Chronicle of May 1835. The principal local landlord is to invest in a partial implementation of Mr. Stephensons� plan of 1832.
It is with no small share of pleasure that we perceive the preparations for this important work almost complete. The house intended for the residence of the Engineer will, in the course of a few days, be ready for his reception; the enclosures, together with numerous implements, necessary for the workmen, are finally arranged; and probably in our next publication, much gratified, we will have to announce the movement of this laudable undertaking. The facility to the advancement of commerce with this, as well as its advancement to the neighbouring towns, has long been a matter of serious neglect on the part of our surrounding gentry. Surely, it cannot be possible that the wealthier and more affluent portion of the people of Fermanagh and Cavan are insensible to the blessings which trade and industry never fail to spread. Not even for a moment to calculate on the great advantages which, would undoubtedly accrue to many of themselves from an easy communication with other commercial places, are they not awake to the external, as well as the internal peace among the labouring classes that the accomplishment of an object pregnant with employment must undoubtedly produce? Will they slumber in culpable disinterestedness , with such a noble example of generosity and patriotism set before them, by our, much esteemed, upright, and truly independent representative, Colonel Conolly? This benevolent and indulgent landlord has come forward, unsolicited, unaided, but (at least by us) not unexpected, and, as et, bounteously supplied the many expensive callings the magnitude of this prosperous enterprise puts forth.
Let us no longer be told of the trivial prejudices entertained by some well meaning, but inexperienced persons, with regard to the possible attainment of the removal of this injurious barrier, which nature, as if in a �frolic mood� has thrown across the mouth of our harbour. Let them but look to the unity of the high opinions expressed by Colonel Borgoyne, and Mr. Owen, of the noble designs of Mr. Stephenson, the Engineer, and their perfect accordance in his proceedings. Add to this the ingenuity of our tradesmen and the Herculanean strength of our peasantry � all panting with anxiety for the commencement of the laborious task. We trust, our friends connected with Lough Erne, as well as others, will see the necessity � nay, the justice, of relieving in some degree, the shoulders of a willing individual from the pressure of a burden, under which to bear a part would reflect credit on their names. We cannot, in truth, refrain from expressing our admiration of the unwearied exertions of Alex. Hamilton, Esq. in promoting the designs of the Engineer. Such acts would tend more to the pacification of Ireland, than files of barren enactments on the part of our rulers, or centuries of wanton agitation on the part of those who profess themselves to be the peoples� friends. One more word respecting Colonel Conolly, and we are done. To those who have the happiness of his acquaintance, we need say nothing; to those who only know him in public, we will merely observe, that his private life goes hand in hand with his senatorial career � manly, sincere, open hearted � too proud, too moral, too honest for political evasion; but to his countrymen in general, we affirm, he would be to them a changeless friend, and a tireless benefactor.
In 1837 the traffic of the port of Ballyshannon is given on a �Map of Ireland to accompany the Report of the Railway Commissioners showing the relative quantities of traffic in different directions. By Henry D. Harnes, L�Royal Engineers 1837.� Exports amounted to 1,800 tons valued at �11,000 and Imports were 2,500 tons and valued at �9,600. On August, 9th, 1838 the Liberator, a shortlived Ballyshannon newspaper reports the Ballyshannon ship news. The John and Thomas under Captain Iver arrived from Memel on the Baltic Sea with timber and the the Margaret under Captain Ewing departed for Liverpool in ballast i.e. without cargo. It goes on to tell of the voyage of the Blanch of Donegal under Captain O�Brien which sailed for Quebec on the 28th day of May and arrived on the 27th of June. The passengers were all well and in excellent spirits. The voyage was so pleasant that only a few people were even seasick. It adds, �This is the quickest passage ever made by any vessel leaving this port and proves the combined qualities and abilities of the vessel and her company.� On July 9th the above paper underlines one of the failings of Ballyshannon port; the lack of outgoing cargoes. The following arrivals were reported all carrying coal:- The Favourite under Capt. Davis from Ayr, the Catherine under Capt Robb from Glasgow and the Alexander under Captain Somerville from the same port plus the Patrick under Captain Davis from Swansea. The Rapid under Captain Greenwald was another arrival with timber from Memel. All this was inward cargo and the Vintage under Captain Frazer departed for Mullaghmore under ballast as did the Favourite bound for Donegal.
Frank M. Watson emigrated from Ballyshannon c 1837 and in 1886 writes in the Donegal Independent of his youth in Ballyshannon and his emigration to St. John�s, New Brunswick. The family soon moved on to Scranton, Pennsylvania but in later years he visited St. John�s to meet up with old Ballyshannon friends. These included John Hammond and John Greene a son of John Greene who was one of the leading merchants in Ballyshannon in the 1830s. He remembers sitting at Greene�s Quay in the evening listening to Golden�s Key-bugle ring out over the estuary as the player sat on a rock above the salmon pool and his last look at Mullanashea Church from the deck of a small brig outside the Bar of Ballyshannon.
On the 28th of September, 1839 the ship Betsey was shipwrecked at Kildoney with deal from, St. John, New Brunswick, Canada. She was under the command of Captain Hall and control of the vessel was lost crossing the Bar and she struck on the rocks. Another of Ballyshannon�s shipping families is mentioned in the Ballyshannon Herald, Jan 13th, 1843 - "We regret to state that the Janet Towers of this port, property of Messers Allingham, was driven into the bay of Islay, Scotland, during gales last week, and totally wrecked: with the greatest difficulty the crew saved their lives; they had just got into the boat without either provisions or clothing, when the vessel went down, and not a vestige of her was to be seen in a minute afterwards. She was partially insured."