Welcome. This page is for reference only and covers only the basics. Please read your owners manual CARFULLY or call a local shop or dealer for better understanding should you not know what to do.
NOTE: I will not be responsible for any damage that could occur. This page is for reference only and is here as a basis to locate a problem. IF your vehicle is under ANY warranty, performing work to it MAY void the warranty.
Warning: The air conditioning system is under very high pressure. Use caution when working with A/C components. Make sure you know how to work on A/C.
SCENARIO 1:
The air conditioning system makes an audible "clicking sound" every minute or so. Is this normal?
ANSWER 1:
Yes. That is the compressor "cyclying" on and off, much like your refrigerator.
SCENARIO 2:
: When the A/C is on, warm air blows out from the vents, even when the selector is at its coldest; the A/C has been run for a few minutes. Does this mean the system is low on refrigerant?
ANSWER 2:
: Usually when this occurs, the system is low on refrigrant gas. Have your car recharged by an authorized A/C service dealer.Note: Many vehicles older than 1992, usually have R-12 in the A/C system. It close to impossible to obtain R-12 due to EPA regulations. ANOTHER NOTE: Do not attempt to mix R-12 with R-134a. The two are not compatible and may damage components.
SCENARIO 3:
When the A/C is on, a faint whistling noise is heard. What is the problem?
ANSWER 3:
This is another indication of a system with an inadequate charge. I reccommend not running the A/C at all or if you have to for defrosting the windows, make it minimal. This is because the A/C has some oil that circulates around the system naturally. If there is a leak (at the compressor or a major line leak, this could cause more oil to be forced through the leak hole by pressure and cause the compressor to run "dry" if enough oil has escaped.) Top
The Battery does not seem to hold a charge. Whats wrong?
ANSWER 1:
First, before replacing the battery, ask yourself these questions:
How old is the battery?
Has it been charged in a while?
Is there any water in the battery?
Finally, check it with a hydrometer.
To check for water, pop off the top vent caps with a sloted screwdriver--the level should be consistent with all chambers. The water should be 1/2 inch from the top of the holes. If this is fine, then do the headlight test.
Simply turn on the headlights; a weak battery will produce little or no light. Try the horn. Is should sound weak as well. Secondly, if the battery appears to be in good condition, make sure your charging system is operating properly. A test: if you can, start the car. If the 'battery' OR '+ -' OR 'charge' light is still on after the rest of the dash lights go out, then most likely it is a VOLTAGE REGULATOR failure. If the light goes out with the rest of the dash lights, then replace the battery.
SCENARIO 2:
A fresh, fully charged battery was installed. However, when the key is turned, the starter sounds weak--like a bad battery--or there is a mechanical grind. What is the problem?
ANSWER 2:
First, make VERY sure the battery is fresh. To do this, turn on the headlights--engine off. The lights should glow brightly. If the lights glow brightly, then the fault is not the battery. Read on. With the lights and ALL other accessories OFF, try starting the engine again. If the starter sounds as if it is turning slow--much slower than normal--then there could be several reasons. The MOST common: bad brushes, a worn armature or commutator This usually requires a rebuild or replacement of the starter. Take your starter down to an auto parts store and have them test it. Most do a starter test for little or no charge.
I have had a battery suddenly go on me. The battery was almost 7 years old. So if this happens to you, don't be alarmed!!
SCENARIO 3:
What is the proper voltage for a new battery? When is it time to replace the battery?
ANSWER 3:
Most batteries register approximatly 12.5-13 or so volts with ALL accessories off. When cranking, the reading should drop to around 10-12 volts. A battery is considered dead when the voltage is below 11 volts with everything off, in most cases.
Top
The car continually overheats, regardless of the outside temprature. What can be done?
ANSWER 1:
This situation is usually a thermostat problem. Make sure that the reservoir is filled!! Here's how to locate the thermostat:
FIRST,Follow the top radiator hose to the engine block...
SECOND, with the engine cool and a bucket to catch the antifreeze, remove the hose clamps...
THIRDLY, pull the hose away, and pull out the old thermostat (an egg-shaped metal component,) and scrape the gasket material away from the block...
FINALLY, install new thermostat--with the new gasket it came with--in the block, the same way as the old one came out; noting direction. Install hose, clamp; replace antifreeze and start the car...
LASTLY,Let the car run five or so minutes. Watch the Temp guage or light. The gauge should get around the middle range, then cool a bit... Once the car has been running about 10 minutes, check the reservoir. It is normal for there to be suddenly no coolant. This is because the air gap between the thermostat and radiator when filling. That is it.
SCENARIO 2:
When the heater is on, it doesn't seem the air gets warm enough. The guage could also indicate "C." Whats wrong?
ANSWER 2:
Just quite the opposite problem as SCENARIO 1--a thermostat that is stuck open. Follow the SCENARIO 1 step to replace the thermostat. Once you replace the thermostat (180 degree thermostat is the most common,) then you should get more heat coming out when you need it. In the winter, use a higher rated t-stat (195* is good. In the summer, a lower rated one works, 160* is good.)
Top
When the engine has been started, the battery light comes on, but doesn't go out with the rest of the idiot lights. Does this mean my battery is bad?
ANSWER 1:
This usually doesn't mean the battery is bad. More than likely, the voltage regulator has failed, yielding a battery that is not being charged by the alternator. The regulator is on or in the alternator in most cases. It is usually black in color and about and inch round or square. Refer to your repair manual for details on replacement.
SCENARIO 2:
When I use my headlights, they become brighter at a higher RPM and dimmer at a lower RPM. Is this a voltage regulator problem?
ANSWER 2:
Yes. This is the most common occurences with regulators. The regulator maintains constant control a certain voltage. Regardless if the car is idiling, or on the expressway, the battery is fed only a voltage that is constant; about 12-13 VDC. Top
When accelerating, the engine makes a knocking--a ping or metalic sound. What is going on?
ANSWER 1:
Usually, the problem here, especially on older engines is a low grade or octane of gas. Many of us just use plain ol' 87 at the pumps, because it the most economical. Some older, or specialty engines require a richer fuel mixture. Try a grade that is a next step up, such as 89. Another cause could be bad engine ignition timing. Verify the timing is OK.
SCENARIO 2:
The engine backfires when started or hard acceleration.
ANSWER 2:
There are many causes of this, however, the most common is ignition timing that is more than likely off. Check specifications in repair manual for correct timing. Other causes could be malfunctioning carbuetor(s)--non-EFI engines, vacuum leak at riser or intake manifold, faulty computer--on EFI engines only; faulty fuel pump, usually this is too much gas at once. These are just some of the possibilities.
SCENARIO 3:
When I go to start my car, it stalls out. Why?
ANSWER 3:
There could be a number of problems associated with this. A couple common problems are loose vacuum hoses; a vacuum hose that is not installed at all. Also, the fuel filter or pump could be malfunctioning--CHECK THE FUSE that operates the fuel pump circuit first. Another could be bad ignition timing. On certain vehicles with a cold start injector (FI engines, this may be faulty.) To test, make sure the car is cold. Remove the injector and crank the engine (remove the coil wire.) If no fuel sprays out, then it is faulty. Read the repair manual for more info on other reasons.
Top
NOTE: Because the complexity of automatic transmissions, leave major work for a shop to handle. Before assuming problems right away, check the fluid level. To to this, locate the transmission dipstick; the car has to be at operating temp and idiling to do this test. Take a paper towel and pull the dipstick, wipe it off and reinsert. Pull out immediatly; this is the current level. The color should be a bright to medium moroonish color with no burnt smell.
SCENARIO 1:
The transmission will not downshift--go into passing gear--as the accelerator is pressed to the metal. What can I do?
ANSWER 1:
First, Check to make sure the throttle linkage is not binding or loose. Over time, the cable loosens and/or the adjusting nut works loose. Refer to your manual on how to properly adjust the throttle linkage. However, if that is ok, then take the car to the transmission shop and have them look it over. This happened to me, and it was because the cable was binding inside the tranny.
SCENARIO 2:
The transmission has a tendancy to shift really rough, slips in gear and/or 'drags' in gear when taking off. Does this mean an expensive repair?
ANSWER 2:
Because I just had my transmission overhauled, July 2002, these problems could be associated with age. My tranny had 250,000 original miles before it needed some TLC.
FIRST: the rough shifting. This most likely is caused by a low fluid level. Check fluid and test drive. If it continues, take the car to a shop and have them look at it.
SECOND: slipping in gear. This is an internal problem, usually the clutches are going out. These clutches are actually clutch rings several to a 'pack'; similar to a clutch in a manual. As in a manual, slipping can be identified by high RPM's, and low speed--speed gradually builds over time. To test, watch the tach, if equipped. If the needle 'bounces' around as your accelerating, then the clutches are worn out. By this point, you'll probrably need to call in a tow truck.
THIRDLY: Dragging refers to the transmission sticking in gear. An example of this is when you slow down and stop at a stop sign. As your taking off, the car takes off slowly, and maybe some 'shuttering' could be felt. This also happened to me, and was a result of age. Not to get too technical, but the tourque converter was shot, along with the oil pump, which had a crack and too much bearing play forcing fluid around the valve body, not through it as it should. As I did, try downshifting all the way to First Gear after you stop. The car will then be in proper gear for take off.
The most common cause of this is a bad or damaged throwout bearing. Replace the bearing by removing the transmission from the engine. Replace the bearing and check the flywheel for excessive scoring while at it.
SCENARIO 2:
Clutch does not respond to pedal pressure or very little activity occurs when the pedal is pressed. Why?
ANSWER 2:
If your model is hydraulic, make sure the resevoir is full. If it is a mechanical model, probrably the linkage is out of adjustment or the cable has snapped. Make sure the cable is not damaged in any way, if so replace. reajust to specifications that are found in a repair manual. If the vehicle is real cold from sitting in extreme climates, it may be hard to push the clutch in. Let the vehicle warm up about 10 minutes before taking off. If not, too much wear could occur and snap the cable.If the clutch is wearing out and/or has overheated, there will be a distinct burning smell (much like brakes.) In this case, the clutch will not respond and you may not get much power because of slippage. Replace if the clutch needs replacing ASAP or let clutch cool down if you know that it is still acceptable.
Top
