TUNE UPS and MAINTENANCE

This page is the basics on what to check for when doing a tune-up. Major service tune-ups are reccommended around intervals of: 30,000, 60,000, 90,000, 120,000 miles; etc.



Check with your owners or repair manual for what should be replaced during these intervals. NOTE: If your vehicle is under a FACTROY WARRANTY, under any circumstances, do NOT work on your vehicle as this may null your warranty. Checking fluids may be the most you can do under this condition.


Use the following links:

Here are some things to check and note:

FLUIDS

Fluids are important to keep a car running smoothly. The vital fluids to a car consist of engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant, and power steering/brake fluid. It is simple to check these fluids. To check the fluids, first locate a dipstick or cap and, with a rag, pull it out and make sure the fluid is at the proper level. While your at it, check to make sure the fluid isn't burned or has a burned smell to it. If it does, try and diagnose it immediately. This is especially important with the engine oil and transmission fluid. The burned smell can signify that something is wrong.


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HOSES

Hoses are essential to carry fluids and refrigerants. The way to check radiator hoses is to locate them (found at the top of the engine block and bottom, usually on the right-hand side of the car,) then locate the clamp that attaches it to the particular component. If the end of either hose is bulging (usually next to the clamp) then replace it as soon as possible; if the hose is cracked or feels soft, replace them. On vehicles with A/C, if the refrigerant hose is cracked, take it to an authorized A/C service mechanic. This also means a good chance of loss of refrigerant and oil. If the hose itself just has heat cracks, but is still holding pressure, then I say this: THE A/C IS UNDER HIGH PRESSURES AT ALL TIMES. PLEASE, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE REFRIGERANT HOSES AS YOU COULD GET SERIOUSLY INJURED FROM HOSES FLYING AND/OR THE REFRIGERANT LIQUID (BOILS WELL BELOW 0*F)ITSELF!! TAKE IT TO AN A/C SHOP OR DEALER FOR REPLACEMENT. Other than that, periodically checking the hoses is not a bad idea. Usually I replace mine every 3-5 years.


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DRIVEBELTS

Drivebelts are what drive certain components on the engine including the alternator, air conditioning compressor, power steering, water pump, fan, etc. It is a good idea to check drivebelts for cracks and stretching periodically before they break! The belts all drive these components, however, the belts that are relied on most are the water pump, alternator, and power steering. Newer vehicles have what is called a serpintine belt A serpintine belt is a single belt that drives many components. If one breaks, your pretty much out of luck! A call to AAA or a bus ride down to the local auto parts store can be prevented if these belts are checked periodically. Drivebets wear because of driving, but also the weather has an effect on them. Extreme tempretures can shorten the belts life. To check to see if a drivebelt needs to be replaced, simply locate one and, about midway from pulley to pulley, push down on the belt. If there is more than 1/2 inch deflection, and/or the belt looks cracked, change them. To change the belts, simply locate the pivot bolt that allows the component to move back and forth. Also locate the locking bolt, and loosen that. Refer to your manual for a better discription for your car. Check periodically, especially under heavy usage. Replace every two years or so under ideal conditions.


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BATTERY

The battery is one of the most important components on your car. It has the job of starting your car, and allows you to use accessories when the car is not running. Batteries will last anywhere from 3 to 8 years depending on the type you get. When replacing a battery, make sure your replacing with the right kind for thecapacity of the charging system of the vehicle!!To check the battery, locate the caps on top of the battery (provided they're the non-maintenance-free type)which are vent caps to let the electrolyte escape when charging. With a screwdriver and a rag over the cap to prevent acid from coming out, push down on the screwdriver and the cap should pop out: the electrolyte level in each hole (6 total) should be filled pretty close to the top. If the level is down or more than 1/4 of an inch, fill with distilled water and put the caps back on carefully. Distilled water will keep the inside of the battery from corroding. To do a more thorough test, you have to obtain a hydrometer, which checks the specific gravity of the battery and determines the useful life of it. This is sold at any auto parts stores for 5 dollars or less; check battery at least once a month.


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IGNITION COMPONENTS

The ignition system consists of the spark plugs, cap and rotor, plug wires and coil. To check the spark plugs:

FIRST: Remove the plug wire from each spark plug individually; label if needed starting with the number one cylinder (front of engine) not all at once, or you will mix up the order in which the wires go to their respective cylinder.

SECONDLY: Loosen the spark plug and carfully grab it with your fingers. A brownish color indicates normal wear. If the plug has carbon or soot all over the plug, replace with a new set. The carbon could be caused by a number of occurences such as rich air/fuel mixure, bad ignition timing, wrong plug for its heat range.

FINALLY: Replace spark plugs if they are dirty or the contacts are worn out. Replacement is around 25,000 miles.

DISTRIBUTER and ROTOR: The distributer(cap) and rotor usually are replaced at the same time. To check for cap wear, look cloosly for hairline cracks. This will cause moisture to enter the cap and short out the contact between the rotor and terminals of the cap. Replacement is as a set. Periodic inspection is not a bad idea.

PLUG WIRES:Little can go wrong with plug wires. Change every few years or so. Plug wires are made to handle high DC voltage from the coil, about 30kVDC. Replace plug wires in a set.


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PREVIOUS UPDATE ON: 11-14-2002
CURRENT UPDATE ON: 1-15-2004
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