| Nepal |
| We arrived in Kathmandu on 6th March and set off a few days later for a 31 day trek, with our ultimate destination Everest Base Camp (5,300 m). It is a pretty incredible thought that we would be hiking for so many days running. Most trekkers fly in to Lukla, which cuts out 7 days of walking, but we preferred to get our fitness up to scratch before reaching higher altitudes. Those first few days involved 6 to 7 hours each of "up-and-down" over three mountain passes, the highest being 3,500 m. On day 9, we reached Namche Bazar (3,700m), which is the informal Sherpa capital and the start of the high altitude part of the trek. From Namche, we set off to Gokyo (5,300 m), from where we had magnificent 360 degree views on the Everest peaks. Reaching Gokyo involved gradual increases in altitude in order to acclimatise to the decreasing levels of oxygen (only 50% of sea level oxygen at 5,000 m). After Gokyo, we descended back down the valley, turned around the corner (Phortse) and moved up the Khumbu valley towards Everest Base Camp. Being already acclimatised, we could move up quickly to Gorak Shep (4,900m), from where we made a one day return trip to Everest Base Camp (5,300 m). Gorak Shep is also the starting point for a 600m hike up Kalapattar (5,500 m), from where you have a neat close-up view of Mount Everest, Base Camp and the Khumbu Icefall. At least, Jeroen says it was a neat view - Meriel didn't make it! |
| The Route |
| Our guide-porter - In order to help us carry Meriel's Mars bars and insulin, we hired a guide/porter, called Amrit. Amrit was a lovely Nepali chap from a village in the Everest region, with a basic knowledge of English. We got on very well and, after initial shyness, started to have a good laugh. Our travel companions - For most of the trek, we were accompanied on-and-off by two English couples: Dave & Delly and Nick & Sally. Although we did not always walk together, nor stay in the same lodges, we kept bumping into each other during the trek, which was great fun. |
| Our Health |
| Meriel's knee - After the first three days (strenuous up and down for 6 to 7 hours), Meriel's left knee started to hurt pretty badly. We took a welcome rest day in Junbesi and, with good treatment and massage, the knee recovered sufficiently to allow us to resume the trek after one day. Jeroen's eye - In Namche, Jeroen' picked up conjunctivitis, which is a viral infection of the eye, not serious if treated. Fortunately, Kunde hospital (3,900 m) happened to be around the corner, so after some antibiotics, the eye got better quite quickly. More reliable than the Irish teabag treatment Delly recommended - witchcraft doesn't work! Jeroen's altitude sickness - Although we were well aware of the dangers of altitude and did all the rights things, problems did occur. After a two hour walk on our acclimatisation day in Lusa (4,300 m), Jeroen got dizzy over a plate of fried potatoes. Dizziness is a known symptom of AMS, but the subsequent fainting wasn't! We descended rapidly to Dole (4,040 m), where a hangover-type headache replaced the dizziness. The next day, Jeroen recovered sufficiently to resume our trek to Gokyo. |
| The People |
| Highs Reaching Everest Base Camp - Absolutely met our expectations and dreams after reading "Into Thin Air". The rocky surface, the expeditions setting up camp and the massive ice pack from the Khumbu Icefall were amazing. Dinner with Amrit - After our trek, Amrit (see: The People) invited us for dinner in his room with wife and two little daughters. He prepared so much Dahl Bat, we had to roll back to our hotel afterwards. Gokyo Ri Summit - Getting to the top of Gokyo Ri after 15 days of hiking, settling down in the sun together and looking over that amazing Himalayan peak skyline for an hour. The people we travelled with - We met a really nice bunch of people and it made some of the long 7-hour days a lot of fun. Kalapattar (Jeroen) - Getting up early, feeling strong and getting up that peak for a last close-up of Everest. Then "skiing" down, while all the groups were shuffling up. Lows Jeroen's fainting from altitude - Having to go down again, so close to our target because of altitude sickness. Water bottle in the loo - Jeroen dropping his water bottle in the infamous hole-in-the-ground toilet in Gokyo and thinking long and hard before deciding to leave it there. Room keys in the fire - Meriel grabbing in her pocket and throwing some scrap paper in the kitchen fire together with the room keys. Amazing;ly the lodge owners had another key that fitted. Climb up to Gokyo Ri - Described by Meriel as the toughest physical effort ever made, climbing 400 meters at 6.30 am at an altitude of 4,900 m. Climbing 1500m - Covering 1500m in 5 hours on the last day in the scorching sun with a backpack pulling on Jeroen's shoulders because of a faulty waistbelt. Prohibition - At high altitude one is supposed to drink 1 litre of liquid for every 1000 meters. Unfortunately, alcohol doesn't count as it de-hydrates. The first beer was much enjoyed on our return to Namche on the 25th day! Shower galore - Back in Kathmandu after a long time without a shower, Meriel took a long shower in the hostel. The shower lasted until the owner knocked on the door, enquiring why there was water dripping through the ceiling. It turned out that the shower did not have a well-designed water collection and the whole room had flooded ! |
| Detailed Trek Schedule |
| Highs & Lows |
| 10 March: Kathmandu - Jiri (by local bus) 11 March: Jiri - Deorali 12 March: Deorali - Sete 13 March: Sete - Junbesi 14 March: Junbesi (rest day) 15 March: Junbesi - Nuntala 16 March: Nuntala - Bupsa 17 March: Bupsa - Chuplung 18 March: Chuplung - Namche 19 March: Namche (acclimatisation day) 20 March: Namche - Kunjung 21 March: Kunjung - Dole 22 March: Dole - Lusa 23 March: Lusa - Dole 24 March: Dole - Macherma 25 March: Macherma - Gokyo 26 March: Gokyo (acclimatisation day) 27 March: Gokyo Ri 28 March: Gokyo - Phortse 29 March: Phortse - Dengboche 30 March: Dengboche - Lobuche 31 March: Lobuche - Gorak Shep 1 April: Gorak Shep - Everest Base Camp - GS 2 April: Gorak Shep - Kalapattar - Pheriche 3 April: Pheriche - Namche 4 April: Namche - Surkhe 5 April: Surkhe - Juving 6 April: Juving - Paphlu 7 April: Paphlu - Kathmandu (by airplane) |
| Map of Everest region |
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