pattern2

Dutch Heel: Using 10 stitches, here is where the heel marker helps. With the rightside facing you, knit to 5 stitches past heel marker, SSK, turn, Sl 1, Purl across to 5 stitches past middle marker, K2tog, turn. Repeat until all stitches for heel have been worked. I continued the Slip Stitch pattern on these stitches for padding.

12 slip stitch rows for heel padding after p/u gusset stitches, make arrow by losing a slip stitch on each side every other row. See Foot Template.

After all stitches have been worked, knit across worked stitches and pickup gusset thru back of slipped stitch. Pick up one stitch before starting across instep, placing marker after extra stitch.

This would be a good place to charge yarn colors. Also if you want to, do the instep stitches in 1 x 1 ribbing to make a smooth transition between the padded heel and the instep. See Heel Detail

Work across instep stitches, before last instep stitch (30 stitches for instep now) place marker and pickup extra stitch before starting the gusset stitches.

Knit 1 round stopping 6 stitches before heel marker. Slip 1, with yarn in back, purlwise, K1, across 12 heel stitches.

Knit to gusset marker, k2tog, knit across instep stitches to 1 st before gusset marker, Sl 1, K1, pass slip stitch over knit one.

Knit 1 round.

Continue the above till decreases are done (back to 60 stitches), using the heel marker as start of round, or rather six stiches before heel marker. You might want to add side markers on the gussets.

(If you want to shape the finish of padding at 20 stitches, then every other row stop the Slip Stitches one on each side over the next 6 rows.)

Change to light color

Knit a half to 3/4 of an inch plain stockinette depending on where your arch is.

I used 15 stitches for the arch, which is half of the sole stitches. Here is a pic of the arch...

Tip: How to shape the arch: When I try on my sock after finishing the heel, I check to be sure where the arch sts are, and it is all the sts on ONE of the sole needles. I knit 2 or 3 rounds past the heel and then begin to shape using 1/1 rib just on one of the sole needles. If you are knitting with 4 needles total, try on the sock and mark the sts that will comprise your arch. It's quite easy to see with the sock on your foot. Remember, if you choose to do this shaping, it means your socks will be left- and right-footed and you must reverse the shaping on the other sock.
Keep knitting on the chosen arch sts in the selected stitch for however many rounds it takes you to get to the end of your arch. This is best determined, of course, by trying the sock on from time to time and checking, It could be anywhere from 2-3 inches or more depending on the size of the sock. Mine are usually about 2.5 inches. A little more or less isn't really crucial here. At the end of the arch, you reach the ball of the foot and return to your regular stitch for a few rounds before beginning the toe. Lesson finished, . Treating the whole area all the way around would make the sock wearable on either foot rather than shaped for left and right if this is something you would prefer. Finally, if you have Meg Swansen's new book with the shaped arch that looks like a Nike swoosh, try it temporarily. Lesson Four - Shaped Arch/Instep Cybersocks Carol's Sideways Garter Stitch Cuff Socks Instructor - Carol Griffin

On the arch I increase 1 purl and knit stitch every round until I had 15 stitches and then continued until I needed to decrease the same to give a triangular shape to the arch. See Foot Template.

Change to dark color

Ball of Foot: Knit in plain stockinette for about half to three-quarters of an inch , (I got to 6 1/4 inches) then starting the padding for the ball of the foot, continuing the pattern on the 30 sole stitches for about one and a quarter inches, or enough to cover the ball of the foot. Which put me at about 7 and a half inches. I found that doing one round of Sl 1, K1 and 2 rounds of knitting did not draw the sock up so much as the Sl 1, K1 and knit one round did.

I did 2 rounds of the spotted part of the Regia Jacquard to change between to the light from the dark color.

Tip from Anne Croucher - socknitters egroups: Anatomically correct toes socks

Also check out Anatomically Correct Toe in the pamphlet: "Birken-Socks" Priscilla A. Gibson-Roberts

This is where I change to the two circular needle method or you could change to doublepoint needles..

Do the 2 regular toe decreases on the opposite of the arch on every round until you have get near the end of the big toe. If you think about this, instead of doing 4 decreases every other round, you are doing 2 every round.

I had 4 stitches between the decreases on the fingering weight yarn.

Then do a couple of rounds of decreasing 4 stitches every round.

I did the decreases for the toes down to 22 stitches (11 stitches for sole and 11 stitches for top) before grafting as I have a wide foot.

Graft remaining stitches together.