pattern1

This is a work in progress. I first called these my "Leftovers Anatomically Correct (well, almost) Sock Pattern" Because I used my leftover Regia Jacquard and some 3/4 balls of a light and dark gray. I have put tips in italics so that they are easier to distinguish from the pattern.
If you don't know your gauge you will have to figure it out. You should make a template of your foot and measure out where you want the padding for the heel, ribbing for the arch, padding for the ball of the foot and where to start the decreases for the toes. Here is my template to give you an idea - Foot

Tip:Measuring for sock fit: Measure around the top of the ankle, the heel height from middle of ankle bone to floor, and the length of foot to start of toes. Multiply your stitches per inch (tension) by the ankle measurement will equal the amount of stitches to cast on. 8 � inches times 8 stitches per inch equal 68 stitches to cast on. (The Complete Needlecraft Encyclopedia, King Patterns, p.46)

Tip: You can reduce measurement by 10% for a snugger fit. Example is you have 68 stitches, 10 % is 6.8 stitches, subtract 6 or 7 stitches from the 68, ending up CO 62 stitches instead. (from Birken-Socks by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts)

Tip: Circular - CO an extra stitch and knit or rib one row without joining. Then at the end of the row, knit the last stitch and the first stitch together and you have joined the round without a hole nor twisting. From Judy Gibson at the Socknitters Group.

My gauge was 8.5 spi, size 1 (2.5mm) on a 12" Circular needle, foot length is 9.75 inches.

Cast On 64 stitches on size 2.5mm needle(s) in light color
Place marker at beginning of fist round and leave there until finished with the gusset decreases.

Round 1: Purl light color
Round 2: Knit light color
Round 3: Purl dark color
Round 4: Knit light color
This gives a slight garter stitch top.

Change to size 2.25mm or continue with 2.5mm

Tip: CO with a size larger needle for first two rows/rounds, switch down 2 sizes for ribbing, then back up to appropriate size for leg of sock

I went for 2 inches for the top ribbing.

Rounds 5 thru 20: 3 x 1 Ribbing in light or 1.5 inches

Now is the time to change back to 2.5mm needle if you changed earlier

Rounds 21 thru 25: Change to dark and do 3 x 1 Ribbing or .5 inches

Decrease 2 stitches to 62

I went for 6 inches for pattern in leg.

Knit 36 rounds or 3.5 inches in pattern yarn

Knit 8 rounds or 1 inch in light

Decrease 2 stitches to 60

Add dark

1 Round with both colors using k2 light, k2 dark. I used this row for all color changes afterward.

Drop light color.

Knit 1 round dark

Knit 3 x 1 ribbing for 2 inches in dark

Tip: Before dividing for heel stitches, change to 1 x 1 ribbing or a smaller size needle for about an inch. This removes the need to decrease for a snugger fit.

Total length of leg of sock about 8 inches

Divide for heel 31 stitches. I use an odd number for the heel stitch pattern as it comes out centered. I also change to single point needles for the flap.

Tip: Heel Flap - Slip the first stitch as it presents itself at the first stitch of each row. Makes an easy pick up stitch for the gusset also a decorative twist down the heel when done and on first 3-5 stitches and last 3-5 stitches, do garter stitch for a interesting side detail. I fell in love with this pattern by Sande Francis. Check the heel detail at Sande's Album.

Row 1: Sl 1, K3, *Sl 1, k1* (to last 5 stitches), Sl 1, k4
Row 2: Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back, K3, P to last 4 stitches, K4
Row 3: Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back, *Sl 1, k1*, Sl 1, k4
Repeat rows 2 and 3 for the Slip Stitch heel pattern

Tip: When slipping the first stitch of the row, tighten the yarn slightly before moving yarn to back of work.

Continue until heel flap is desired length. I got 22 slip stitch edge stitches which was a little over 2.5 inches

Now on to the next section.....