Extra Parts and Tools Needed

These are parts and tools beyond what�s included and required by greasecar.com.  Try to borrow as much as you can.
General Tools
- Four jack stands to allow you to work under the car.
- Dremmel Tool
- Hose cutting device � A real hose cutter would be nice but I got buy with a sharp razor blade and some sharp pruning shears
- Small flat file
- 1 �� hole saw
- Assorted drill bits
- Drill
- Hack saw
- Small file
- Oil or cutting fluid for drilling metal
- Borrow a voltmeter if you don�t have one.

Coolant Parts 
- Five extra 1-1/4 hose clamps
- One foot of metal edge protection for the coolant hose routing.  This U-shaped plastic strip fits over the sharp edges of  sheet metal  and prevents abrasion to your hoses. You can get it from an electrical supply store or cut some fuel line lengthwise
- Supply and return hose T fitting � I did not use the fittings provided by greasecar.com.  A 3/4� barb fit in the existing coolant line better than a 5/8� fitting.  I bought the brass fittings at a hardware store.
- Brass  T Pipe Fitting� 3/8� npt     qty 2
- Brass Hose Barb Fitting � 3/4� hose barb and 3/8� npt  qty 4
- Brass Hose Barb Fitting � 5/8� hose barb and 3/8� npt   qty 2
- Two 90 degree 5/8� plastic elbows.  I used two elbows, one in the trunk and one in the floor under the seat.  I used brass in the trunk and plastic under the seat.  You could use brass or plastic for each as long as the plastic is made for coolant.   Best to get them from an automotive store where they are made for coolant.  Plastic fittings intended for water will not tolerate the coolant temperatures and might soften or become brittle over time.
- Rust primer � Hardware store
- One 24� long zip tie � Hardware store or local electrical supply
- Rubber Insulated Clamp used for hanging wire � Hardware store or local electrical supply
- 2 gallons of coolant  � Zerex G05 Formula (Phosphate Free) Pep Boys 2 gallons.  This should be chemically the same as the Mercedes coolant.  Follow instruction for dilution. 
- TFE Paste (See part numbers in fuel parts section)
- Strip-calk for sealing any holes in the metal of the car.  I found it at an auto parts store made by 3M. strip caulk part number 051135-08578
- Two feet of wide aluminum tape to be used for heat shielding.  Get the aluminum tape typically used for metal ducting from a hardware store.

Bracket Assembly Parts
- Aluminum Plate � 8.5�x5.5� with a thickness of 0.25� (Aluminum is easy to drill.  I got my metal at work in the scrap bin but you could try a metal scrap yard)
- 90 degree aluminum bracket � Each side should measure 2.75�x3� angle bracket 0.25� thick. I found an existing bracket that worked but you can make one out of angle stock if you can�t.
- Drill and tap set for 10-32 size screw.  This is for mounting the valves.
- Four 10-32 socket head cap screws 3/8� long
- Self tap screws for bracket mounting onto the car.  Use # 14 TEK screws
- Two 5/16-18 hex head screws �" long and lock nuts for attaching the filter bracket to the plate.
- Three 5/16-18 hex head screws 1� long for attaching the angel bracket to the plate.

Electrical Parts
- 14 gauge wiring for the tank level sensor, ground and switches.  Get a couple colors.  Get automotive use wire from and auto store so it can take the temperature.  Length 100 feet
- A bunch of ring terminal connectors for grounding the switch� local electrical supply buy multiple sizes.
- Some type of 1/8" thick panel that is easy to cut and drill (wood/plastic) for mounting gauges and switch if you do not want to use the one supplied by Greasecar.com.

Fuel Parts

- Fuel line hose 1/4� diameter from an auto supply store.  Length 5 feet.  You don�t need the high pressure stuff and avoid pep boys if possible they charge 3 times more than most.
- Brass 5/16� barb fitting 1/4� npt female
- Brass �� barb fitting 1/4� npt male
- TFE (Teflon paste) for high temp applications � Pluming supply store� This is used for all the fittings for the fuel and coolant.  I also read some where to use Permatex #80631.  I used something from home depot that had PTFE in it and met the temp requirements.  I haven�t had any problems.

Optional - One or more 90 degree barb fittings 5/16� hose barb 1/4� npt.  The valves come with all straight fittings.  How many you need will depend on how you want to route your fuel lines to prevent kinking, bending and rubbing.  I only changed one to a 90 degree fitting, you may want to change more.
Optional - 12�x12� Rubberized fiber gasket for the fuel tank gasket.  It�s at any auto store.  Its not perfect and it leaks a little but I didn�t want to do something permanent.  You may want to find something more compressible or you can use the gasket material they give you in the kit.
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