| Step Five
Using the same belt I then knock off the 90degree edge. I prefer doing this with a used belt because the steel edge really digs into the belt causing a lot of the sanding grit to fly off. Doing this work with a used belt will lengthen the life of the fresh belt that is needed for grinding the blade bevels in. |
||||||||||||
![]() |
||||||||||||
| Step Six
I then place a fresh 60grit belt on the sander and start grinding the blade bevels. These knives will be flat ground to the spine. I work one side at a time, once the bevel is 1/3" the way up i switch to the other side and grind it 1/3 the way up to. Then I grind each side 2/3 the way up, and finally finish with the bevels ground about 7/8 the way up. The reason I keep switching sides is to relieve stress in the steel...if you grind only one side of the blade before starting the other the blade can warp on you. I dont take the bevel quite to the spine because the steel will move around during heat treating and i want a little excess steel there to cover myself in case I have to grind it straight. |
||||||||||||
![]() |
||||||||||||
| Step Seven
After the blades are fully ground to 60grit I dip them in acid(ferric chloride) to turn them grey. The reason for doing this is because we will now be grinding the knives to 120grit and we want ALL of the 60grit scratches gone. Etching the steel grey will help show you remaining 60 grit scratches while sanding to 120. The blade on the far left hasn't been etched, the others have...notice the difference? |
||||||||||||
![]() |
||||||||||||
| CLICK HERE FOR NEXT PAGE | ||||||||||||