Breakfast was simple but effective, bread, cheese, cornflakes with yoghurt, coffee and fruit. I got the feeling from the bareness of the plate that the cheese is normally served with ham.

After breakfast, I had a quick shower before getting myself ready for today�s big adventure � a visit to Trelew. Checked with Diego what time the buses left from Gaiman and the price ($1.70 � about 40p) before wandering down to the Plaza where the shelter was, followed by yesterday�s dog anxious for the remainder of my apple. Bus came, I got on, paid my fare and settled down for the 15km trip into Trelew, a little longer than the journey from Barry to Cardiff.

Roads in the Chubut are generally straight, so when they aren�t drivers have to know about it. I�m not sure quite why, but �Roundabout in 500 meters� brings a smile to my face, as does the sign on the roundabout itself indicating that if one wants Trelew, one should go right, if one wishes to reach Esquel then turn left.

Esquel is the next town of any size to the west of Gaiman. I don�t know if this gives any idea of the sparseness of the population, but it�s like having a signpost at the Docks Link Road which says �Cardiff� on one side and �Newcastle� on the other.

Trelew bus station was like any other, lots of people looking anxiously for their bus with a whole load of baggage and some tired screaming kids in tow.

I walked through the shelter and out the other side to a large park on a street called Lewis Jones (after whom the town was named). After walking a few blocks through the park, I turned left and walked into the centre through the shops which were divided into neat little blocks that criss-crossed each other, as opposed to Gaiman�s one long high street.

At the end of the second block I came across the home of Asocasion San David, the Welsh association in the town, an impressive old building, although the image was somewhat ruined by the big �Bingo! Here!� poster in the main window.

I hadn�t brought my map with me, but I knew from looking at it in the past that the Welsh Church, the Tabernacl, was half way up the next street.

But which one? I walked down the next block and couldn�t see it. Bad choice. I turned ninety degrees and then in a square, still couldn�t see it. I walked up the main street. Nope, not there, but I did find the Touring Club, the oldest hotel in Trelew and once the finest establishment in all of Patagonia, which offered some Torta Galesa for those who could be tempted.

Some of the shops had posters advertising the Welsh tea for 28th July (Gwyl y Glaniad or Landing Festival) while most of the cake shops promised something tasty and Welsh, there even seems to be a company called Waless which makes all sorts of confectionery.

I found my way to the Plaza de Libertad, which was the home to the tourist office and popped in for some maps and information. I had already bypassed the Theater Verdi, the original home of the Italian community in the town and the Theatro Espanol, the Spanish equivalent, although only the latter is still open for performances. They gave me a map. I realised I had been thinking of the city the wrong way up (dur �serves me right for trying to be clever) and I had in fact already walked past the Welsh Church but had been too busy eyeing up shoes in a shop across the road. Nothing new there then!

Having found the main Welsh buildings, I could feel my tummy rumbling and popped into a (you guessed it) pizzeria where I had a �fugazza�, a pizza which involves sweet onions rather than cheese. Interestingly different and quite nice.

Post-lunch I made my way around town once more, exploring the city, checking out the trainers and the music shops before making my introductions at the San David and having a look at their �library� of books about the Welsh in Argentina and talking to the people that worked there.

With darkness falling, I had a choice � go back to Gaiman or go to the cinema. Unfortunately, there wasn�t much of a choice, so Spiderman 2 it was, El Hombre de Arana. Not the best film in the world, but I have to improve my Spanish, I guess.

On the other hand, I�m looking forward to watching Harry Potter y el Prisienero de Azkaban when it comes out in a few weeks. Wasn�t quite so sure about the Tom Hanks Christmas movie preview, though � it�s July for heaven�s sake, even if it is Winter here. They must find the concept of a Cold Christmas quite odd!

Film finished, time to head back home. Back to the bus station and a half hour wait for the next bus in the direction of Gaiman which filled up rapidly with a hail of �Holas� and �Que Tal�s and excited chatter from locals making their way back to Gaiman or Dolavon or to Las Chacras inbetween.