| Aquarium Setup basics |
| THE AQUARIUM Purchase the largest aquarium you can consedering the space you have. Fish are sensetive to the water conditions. Drastic water changes are lethal to tropical fish. However the more water you have the more it takes to have a drastic change. Example: it takes more energy to heat a 50 gal than a 10 gal. Also it takes 1/2 tsp to change the ph of a 10 gallon tank by .5. where a 50 gallon requires 3 whole tsp to do the same. A bigger tank is more forgiving than smaller ones. Locate your new aquarium away from direct sunlight to discourage algae growth in the water. Also sunlight causes the water to change tempature. THE WATER Water is covered in more detail in the chemerstry of water page. Water is the most important part of your aquraium. Water also has its on chemerstry and can be difficult to understand, hence its own section. Fill the the tank with water and let it sit 24hrs to rid clorine. This can also be done by adding declorinators.Seek your dealer's advice about the quality of your local tap water. Knowing parameters such as pH and hardness will help you select what kind of treatment has to be done to the water. Also ask your dealer if the water in your area contains chlorine or chloramine--strong chemicals used for water treatment in many municipalities. Allow the tank to cycle. Give the nitrogen cycle time to set. This is simply allowing time for benifical bacteria to grow. Without these benifical bacts. ammonia levels would rise toxicly. Test the water for ph. pH is the level of acidity in the water.The ph level is all you really need to test. Although ammonia is toxic to fish it is a function of ph. If the ph is netrual then the amonia level is also netural. Besides ammonia is required to start the nitrogen cycle. The buffering system is also related to pH and can be measured by the pH scale. If the pH is to high then consider checking water hardness, ammonia, water buffering....etc to detirmine the problem. Instead of just adding chemicals to change the water properties, target the problem. Hard water (high mineral content) is high pH and has a high buffering number. Also be mindful of tempature as most fish like it about 72* F. If the water is very soft it has a low ph. Each species of fish has there own preferance however. Next is cycling see nitrogen cycle. FILTRATION AND AERATION The differents types of filtration are covered elswhere on this site. The type of filter depends on the type of number of fish mainley. Lager as well as multiple fish produce more waste than one or smaller fish. With a litttle research, choose the filter that best suits the size of your aquarium. Use a air pump and stone to provide the aeration needed for healthy fish. Air pumps do not pump oxygen into the tank. Instead the bubbles create a current that breaks the surface. Oxygen is asborbed into water through the surface. Surface tension or movement creates more surface area for water to asborbe oxygen. Carbon dioxide and other gases are releasde through the surface by agatateing or moving the water surface. The filter does this job more effectly than an air pump by moving more water. However, air stones are much more decoreative. ADDING FISH AND PLANTS Add only a few fish initially. One inch of fish per gallon of water seems to be a good rule. In a brand new tank with all new equiptment add an inexpensive feeder. The feeder will cycle the tank for you as well as give you an idea of how the tank will react. Examples are you may find yor tank changes temp overnight or your pH changes during mid-day. Feeder fish are a great indicator and at about .28$ a pice the cheapest test system. Think about the type of fish you like. If Oscars are desired rember they are not friendly to other fish. If it will fit into his mouth it will eat it or try. Indeed my first Oscar choked trying to swallow a rock. Other Ciclids are also fin rippers, plant eaters, baby eaters, and meat eaters so do a little research about the fish compatiblity. Consider using live plants in your aquarium. They can enhance aquarium enjoyment as well as help balance or recycle certain biochemicals and nutrients. However, they require 12-14 hours of light per day, occasional pruning and replanting, and fertilization. Also, some fish (oscars and red devels) do not like plants and either tear them or uproot them. . Use plastic plants in your aquarium if you prefer a low-maintenance alternative to live plants. FEEDING Feed your fish as recommended in the Care & Feeding Guide. Feed only small amounts daily. MAINTENANCE Change 20% of the water every two weeks or as needed. Bigger as well as more fish often require more frequient changes. Siphon from the bottom and stir the gravel to help remove debris. Ive read that its not a good idea to change the water and the filter media at the same time. However, ive found that you replace filters anyway after a water change due to the amount of debris stured up from the gravel. All that muck cloges the filter. Use a gravel cleaner to siphon debris without disturbing aquarium decor or needing to remove fish. Change the filter cartridge every four weeks. When filtered through a clean cartridge, water returns to the aqurium by a spillway. As dirt collects on the filter cartridge, the cartridge gradually becomes clogged and water flow slows. water begins to flow from the intake tube. When this occurs, its time to replace the cartridge. AND REMEMBER - ...DON'T add too many fish to a new aquarium. Wait 30 days. ...DON'T overfeed your fish. ...DON'T tap on the glass or startle your fish. ...DON'T tear down an aquarium to clean it. Keeping fish and gravel in place, use a siphon hose to change part of the water and clean gravel of debris. |
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