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| Mile 14.08 left side of the highway Fiesta III 165' This route follows a left facing corner, then heads up a frozen weep on a wall past a bulge and a curtain, using thin ice and moss. Belay at a 10" spruce tree at the top on the left. Rappel to descend. Mile 14.09 right side of the highway Triangle in the Cleft II 90' This climb is located almost directly opposite from the hanging icicle, and requires crossing the Lowe River. Located in a large, right-leaning, left facing rock dihedral. Rap from alders. Mile 14.10 left side of the highway Plancher d'Envol VI 40' This route ascends the large, free-hanging icicle which dangles off an overhang, close to the highway on the left. You should consider youself lucky if this climb is formed up! You may need to pile snow at the base to reach the pillar. Rappel on the left. Mile 14.11 right side of the highway Sans Amis VI 330' This route takes a line up the Keystone Wall, just to the left of Triangle in the Cleft.. It consists of two full rope lengths of extremely technical climbing on verglased rock and frozen moss. Mile 14.16 right side of the highway Jo-Jo II 150' This thin smear of 75 degree ice is located on the slab just left of Triangle in the Clift. There are several bulges. Rappel from alders Mile 14.17 right side of the highway Bloodstain II 130' This even thinner smear is located just to the left of Jo-Jo, on a steep slab. The steepest section is at the top. Rappel from alders. |
| Climbs are listed in increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the airport intersection. |
| Mile 14.17 right side of the highway North Slope Slurry III 80' This is a thin smear, rarely formed, left of Triangle in the Cleft. Rappel Mile 14.20 left side of the highway Gossamer IV(TR) 130' This fine filmy piece of cobweb (when formed, which is almost never) is located on a 130' vertical wall between the hanging icicle at mile 14.14 and the gully at mile 14.41. Mile 14.41 left side of the highway Scotch on the Rocks II 90' This short climb is approached via the snow gully seen on the left at mile 14.41 between the hanging icicle and Greenstone Keysteps. It is on a bench about 500' above the highway, and is the right of two obvious gullies directly above the approach gully. There is some avalanche potential. Rappel from alders to descend. Mile 14.41 left side of the highway Charlie Chaplin I 100' This short, easy route is located to the right of Scotch on the Rocks above the previously mentioned snow gully. Rappel the route to descend. Mile ??? left side of the highway Greenstone Keysteps II 110' This route is located to the left of the highway on the first series of three road cuts, and to the right of the snow gully used as an approach to the two previously mentioned climbs. Descend by hiking up to the goat trail and then right to a point between Never Again and Shaker Heights, and down a gully. |
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