| Climbs are listed in order of increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the airport intersection. |
| Mile 13.87 right side of the highway Glass Onion V- 400' This climb is located to the right of Simple Twist, left of Greensteps and directly above Hooligan. It is high on the canyon wall and does not touch down. To approach traverse in from the left after climbing the first part of Simple Twist. Walk off on gully to the right. Mile 13.88 right side of the highway Simple Twist of Fate V- 250' This climb is located to the right of Bridalveil, in a corner. Rap to descend. Mile 13.89 right side of the highway Bridalveil Falls V 600' This route is the most well know in Valdez. It is very obvious from the highway. Look for the D.O.T. sign to locate. Either rap or walk off by hiking up the hill about 200 yards to the pipeline road, easily noticed as a cut on the hillside. Follow the road to the right, passing through a sunken grade with rock cuts on both sides, and enter a bowl which funnels down into an avalache chute which may be glissaded or stomped down. This descent could take anywhere from 20 minutes to two hours, conditions dependent. Mile 13.90 right side of the highway Flying Cloud V+ 320' This rarely formed up route is located just to the left of Bridalveil. It is very steep, with thin ice and fragile icicles ending on a ledge part way up the cliff. To descend rappel from alders. |
| Mile 13.93 left side of the highway Oil Slick II 40' This thin brownish smear is located on the left side of the highway, across from Bridalveil at the right end of the large road cut there. The route goes up then jogs left and up, with the crux at the top as the ice turns into soft snow over rock. Walk left to descend or rappel from alders. Mile 14.00 right side of the highway Left Over II 80' This short climb is located to the right of Triangle in the Cleft and far left of Flying Cloud, across the river. It is a 75 degree sheet of ice leaning against the base of the main rock wall, in a left-facing corner, ending at an alcove. Rappel from a bollard or a screw as there are no other anchors. Mile 14.00 right side of the highway Voodoo Stick IV 140' This route begins on an 80+ degree verglass smear just right of Left Over and reaches a right-leaning ramp on which sits a small free-standing pillar. From the top of the pillar, traverse left on a broken ledge and pass an overhang, reaching alders at the base of a snow gully. To descend Rappel 80' Mile 14.03 left side of the highway Piece of Shit III 80' This climb is located next to the road on the left. This climb usually has quite a bit of traffic. Park in the Bridalveil parking lot and walk to the climb or risk the wrath of D.O.T. Rap down an obvious fir tree at the top. |
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