La Rochelle 
Boats wait in the morning light to sail out between the towers.
La Rochelle lies like a gem on the Atlantic Coast. A lovely town to visit, its harbour is like a movie set. It is an important port for both pleasure and commercial fishing boats. Life is good here. The three large towers at the entrance to the inner harbor are the symbols of the city. The quays are lined with boats of all sizes and surrounded by trees and outdoor restaurants. The atmosphere is very relaxed.As I pedaled toward centre ville in La Rochelle I wasn't really expecting much. Many of the Atlantic Ports were bombed during the war and rebuilt in "blocky gray functionnal". I was wrong, this little port is delightful. It would be a great place for a romantic weekend getaway. La Rochelle was a stronghold of Huguenots. Beseiged by Cardinal Richelieu it fell only after a lengthy siege which included the construction of a vast naval boom or barricade several kilometers long across the entrance to the port. Some of its citizens fled to North America at this time to found the city of New Rochelle, New York.
Take an excursion boat to Fort Boyard Fort Boyard appears to rise out of the sea several miles from the nearest land. It is actually built on a sandbar just beneath the surface.
Built to control the bay and protect it from the British, it was started in 1804 Construction was extremely difficult and coninued for decades.
The arming of the fort was never actually completed.Click on the postcard to see the real thing. By the time the structure was ready to receive its allotment of cannon so much progress had been made in weaponry and range of firepower that already existing fortifications on shore could protect the harbour without the fort. Fort Boyard was thus obsolete before it was ever finished. Returning on the boat I discovered just how tricky finding the narrow entrance channel really is. We stood far out in the bay and visually lined up a red and a green light, mounted on separate towers, one in front of the other. We then sailed straight towards them, keeping the lights exactly in line. Veering off would have meant running aground and possibly sinking. Classed as a historic monument, it was used as a prison then later refurbished. It is now the set for an annual television game show; "Keys of Fort Boyard". "Survivors" eat your heart out!
Street Scenes
Afternoons and evenings the streets are full of strollers enjoying the sea air, the restaurants, the architecture, and the many street artistes. The harbour is surrounded with tree lined promenades. Even on the warmest day the sea breeze will keep you comfortable as you rest inthe shade and quaff something cool and frothy.
 Children alternately stand in awe and then giggle at a "statue" which will nod its thanks when you put a coin in the cup on the pavement.
La Rochelle is a model when it comes to environmental matters.
The city is very very clean. The streets are clean. The air is clean. Bicycle commuting has been facilitated and heavily encouraged. The town has also played a central role in the development of electric and hybrid cars. A Little Story
In 1556, forty five sailors, all from La Rochelle, were shipwrecked several miles off Bermuda. Their captain abandoned them and, after spending months on a desert island, they decided to try their luck by setting out on a makeshift raft. Two years later they arrived home late at night, sailing through the darkness between these towers, to the joy of their "widows" and "orphans".
Aside from the electric lighting the inner port has changed very little since the night of their return. Imagine them sailing into the harbour, the watchmen peering to make them out and then racing to ring the church bells to announce the incredible news.So long from La Rochelle The bike and I take a breather beside the "Seven Sisters" rocks on the way out of town. We are heading south along the Atlantic coast, eventually to reach the Dordogne. HOME
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