EXTREME SPORTS! GO STRETTONS! NO FEAR!
Forgive me, I'm still buzzing from our adventures here - but everything must unfold in it's correct order. This is the very nature of a narrative. So come with me, if you will, to where we last left each other - the Bay of Islands. All will unfold.
We arrived in Paihia, and immediately liked the pleasant seaside town (despite it's lack of places to eat). We slept in uncomfortable bunks in a dorm full of snorers. The next morning we took a cruise through the Bay of Islands, and witnessed many dolphins surfing in our wake. Donna was dissapointed that we couldn't swim with the dolphins because the sea was too rough. But I hate the bastards. Just clever fish. On the way back, we stopped at Russell - the oldest town in NZ, and were delighted here by our discovery of Mac's Gold beer (a local brew), and fish and chips on the beach.
From here - back to Auckland to meet up with the rellies. We got to the airport in time to meet Donna's Mam and Dad (Chris and Allen), R Ste and his mate Tom. (sorry - Chris isn't on this photo). Unfortunately for R Ste, his luggage's passage was not so successful, and did not make it any further than (we think) LA (it's still missing!). Nevertheless we enjoyed Auckland more with our buddies in tow. We went up the Sky Tower, and scoffed at the peasants below us.
The next stop was Lake Taupo, but we extended the journey with a jaunt over the Corromandel Penninsular. It was a beautiful drive, but too long - we must have driven for 8 hours. So we got into Taupo at about 10pm and collapsed in our classy motel lodgings (oh yes - now we're doing it in style).
The next day, we day tripped out to Rotorua, historic home of the Maori people and of bad smells (though the 2 are unconnected). The smells in fact come from the sulphurous ejaculations which spurt forth from the area's many geysers and thermal pools. We had a great tour around the best site - Te Whakarewarewa. Poor Ste was sprayed by a smelly sulphurous geyser. How we laughed.
From there, on to Wellington, taking in Napier - which is a beautiful Art Deco town. Wellington is considerably smaller then Auckland, despite it's Capital status. Donna and I liked the town a lot - we took the cable car (which is really a funicular) up to the botanic gardens at night, and here we were shown around the observatory by 2 old dodderers, keen for us to see Saturn through their telescope, which we gratefully did.
Across the water then! And into the beautiful South Island. First port of call - Nelson, which I am, at present, unable to recall - forgive me. Then on to Greymouth, about which I can offer no insights, except to avoid their Chinese restaurant at all costs.
Which brings us here - to beautiful, beautiful Queenstown - the World Capital of Extreme Sports. I'm rather pleased to say that we have thrown ourselves (quite literally) into the action here with aplomb. Yesterday we went white water rafting, and then Jet boating (see photo) on the Shotover river. The rafting was, perhaps, not as extreme as we would have liked - a series of about 5 rapids over a 16 km river. The Jet boat was certainly more extreme. We skimmed over water no deeper than 8 cms in parts at around 45 mph. Hairy.
And today has been Bungy day. Ste and I decided to go for the biggest - the Nevis. A sheer drop of 134m between a gorge - the tallest bungy in the Southern Hemisphere, with a fall time of 8 secs. The jump was truly terrifying. I swear that in the first 2 seconds of the fall, (yes that's me in the photo) reason left me and I thought I was going to die. Only as the elastic tightened did I remember that I might survive. This was a great thrill. Awesome. As they say.
Not to be out-done (though lacking the insanity to attempt Nevis), Donna and Ste then dragged us off to the Kawarau bungy. Here we did a jump of 43m into a head-dunk in the river. I jumped solo, and Donna and R Ste jumped shackled together. We're still buzzing now - so I think we need a beer. Next stop Te Anau, then Dunedin - I'll keep you posted.
Monday 17th February 2003, Christian writes:
Staying with Matt and Julie proved to be a delight. I'd never met Matt before, so was a little nervous about descending upon them. As it turned out, we all got on really well. They were excellent hosts, and with Matt as guide, we saw a lot of the Gold Coast Hinterland. Donna and I also took a day trip down to Byron Bay. BB is a real backpacker town, with all the tourist traps, but we really liked it's bohemian feel. As we strolled from the beach up to the lighthouse, we saw hang-gliders floating in the air above us. As we passed their launch site (the side of a mountain) we asked if we too may partake of such a sublime flight. After a brief exchange of moneys, they agreed, and we took the all too literal leap into the world of hang gliding. It was amazing.
From the Gold Coast, we flew down to Melbourne, where we were to stay with Donna's second cousin/cousin once removed - Terri (we weren't sure - she's Donna's Mum's cousin - answers by email please). We had a night of heavy drinking, during which time we became the best of friends. We had hired a car, so, in the morning, we drove down Great Ocean Road. Along the way, we took in Torquay, Eskine Falls, Teddy's Lookout, the 12 disciples, and Loch Ard. The scenery was spectacular - about 300km of ocean road and cliffs. We stayed overnight in a sleepy-town motel (Port Campbell). In the evening, we saw an echidna - so now my set of oddball australian creatures was complete.
We drove back the next day, stopping for a rainforest walk in Mait's Rest. We were held up on the way back because they were filming a car advert - I said it was spectacular. The following day (our last in Victoria) we two took to the trams to explore the city of Melbourne. We decided that it was a good place, of good people. And that was enough for us. In the evening we got accidentally drunk again, and played Karaoke with the family.
So now here we are in New Zealand. I'm rather afraid that first impressions have been unfavourable. Auckland in a dirty, smelly city, so we're looking forward to getting out into the countryside again. In fact, we're just about to catch a bus up to Paihia to see the Bay of Islands so I best wrap up. Donna's family (Mum, Dad, R Ste) join us here on Wednesday.
Friday 7th February 2003, Donna writes:
We left the bossom of my Great Auntie and Uncle today; it's been great being looked after and chauffered about for the past two weeks; but nice to get back to our own thing again.
We spent a lovely 3 days on the Gold Coast in Burleigh Heads and were led astray going to Casinos and gambling into the wee small hours. We left $17 up and that could be disasterous, I may get a habit. Pokies are everywhere here. The Austalians are a nation of gamblers, or so it seems.
I'm afraid to say that I'm not the world's best surfer, but may be a strong contender for the most hopeless cause; not for want of trying through. My natural skill and ability have left me some what short when it comes to catching the waves. Christian was going great guns until Cyclone Beni stirred up huge swells and an ill-timed ear infection left him incapacitated by doctors orders - he's gutted. We went to Surfer's Paradise and he couldn't surf.
We've decided we like the Gold Coast after travelling up and down it for a few days. You have to treat it like it is and embrace it's tackiness. Like Blackpool but with the weather.
Today we spent the day at Seaworld (I said it was tacky!), we went on the rides and saw dolphin shows (pretending that we had a child in tow somewhere so's not to look too sad). There's a section of the theme park dedicated to water rides. It hosts the biggest sheer drop water slide I've ever seen - Christian loved it and I bottled it, though eventually I was shamed into risking life and limb. It was terrifying but thankfully lasted all of 5 seconds - it was that steep!
We're still in Burleigh but now we've moved a third of a suburb into Burleigh Waters. A friend of mine from school lives here - he's one of those faux cousins, our mams were pals and we went on holiday together for years.
Christian is in his element because Matt has numerous guitars and as I type they're jamming Oasis in the garage. It's been almost 4 months since he touched a guitar and I think he'll make up for it over the weekend.
Thursday 30th January, both write:
Blimey! How time flies. It seems like only yesterday we were making our goodbyes. Now we're over a third of the way through!
Well, we arrived at Hervey Bay, and picked up a ferry over to Fraser Island - the largest sand island in the world, with more sand than the Sahara. It was truely a beautiful Island - thanks to all the work of the conservationists who ensure that all the wildlife continue to thrive. We walked through rainforest, swam in creeks and lakes. We saw plenty Dingoes, and swam with turtles and had a thouroughly enjoyable time.
I'm afraid that we chose to do a guided tour instead of a self drive, and we're glad we did. It was Christian's fault. He couldn't be bothered with driving a bus load of 18 yr olds around the place, and attempting conversation. But as it turned out, we had an excellent guide (called Dave - they all are) and a good gang. We got on so well, we even met up back on the mainland for more pints (or rather 'schooners'). On the journey back we saw dolphins too.
From there we travelled 2 hours down the coast to Noosa. Here we have been the spoilt guests of Donna's Aunt & Uncle - Alice and Jack. We have been well looked after here, and it's always nice to see familiar faces when in a foreign clime. They've really shown us around, and Noosa contains a wealth of beautiful beaches and bush.
Christian went out on a surf lesson yesterday, and the instructors were overwhelemed by his unique talent (thanks to Oli). Tomorrow, Donna will atempt here first lesson. Progress report to follow.
Oh, and more news. We're now going to Melbourne. Donna couldn't bear the fact that we were so near and yet so Spar (her 2 cousins live there), and so we've bought an extra flight. So now the plan is: down to the Gold Coast on the 4th (Donna's Dad's 60th - feel free to send cards), then off to Melbourne on the 12th.
And ta for all the emails - ya bunch of loons. Yes, Uncle Simon - Australia is big.
Monday 20th January 2003, both write:
Right, there's rather a lot to cover, I'm afraid. We've been rather busy bunnies, flitting one place to the next on our long journey down the coast of Queensland. Get yourself a nice cup of tea, and then settle down to read and marvel.
Ok. So after Cairns we travelled up to Cape Tribulation and the amazing rainforest there. Now, we don't mind admitting that although we are hardened travellers by now, it did freak us out a little sleeping in the jungle in nothing more than a tent. But it was amazingly beautiful. We stayed at Crocodylus. The next morning, we rode horses through the tea plantations and up the hills to above above the rainforest canopy. In the clearing, there were great views. We thought it'd be a gentle sort of morning, in actuality it was an extreme sport. We went up really steep hills and down the other side whilst holding on for dear life as the horses slipped in the huge amount of mud from the previous night's rain.
Donna nearly fell off while attempting a canter, and Christian's bollocks became rather sore. In the afternoon we cruised the apparantly crocodile-infested waters of the Daintree river. Donna saw a croc, but Chris never. Bah!
So from there, we headed down the coast to Port Douglas: a luxury resort -type place, much more in keeping with our social status. It was nice to marvel at the big yachts and stuff, and the hostel was lovely.
Then on to Mission Beach. Still in tropical climates, we stayed in a similar rainforest hut resort called Sanctuary Retreat, but this time, the accomodation was in treehouses. This place was really lovely, only a short walk away from deserted beaches, and serving great food in the evenings. As we were about to leave, a Cassowary appeared from out of the trees. For those who don't know, a cassowary is a huge, emu-like, endangered bird, but with an aggressive nature, and razer sharp claws. We were made up to see one so close, and we got a bit of video footage.
Magnetic Island next. So named because it apparantly sent all of Captain Cooks instruments crazy as he sailed past. Unfortunately, it has also driven all the inhabitants mad. We initially didn't like it much here, lots of old codgers retirement homes, and the hostel wasn't up to much, but the next morning, we set off on a walk through the bush, taking in a few nice beaches on the way, and we had to agree ot was a worthwhile digression. And we saw 2 koalas cuddling in a tree. Awwww.
Which leads us here. We travelled down to Airlie Beach, where we've just returned from a 2-night yacht cruise around Whitsunday Islands. We anchored at fantastic beaches, did some great snorkelling (in stinger suits - still box jellyfish here!), saw some more wildlife (a dolphin and a turtle), and had 1 wild night out at the full moon party on Hook Island. Fire dancers, Dodgy Santana-type band, dancing and too much alcohol. The sail was aboard the Ron of Argyll, and it was great - despite the lack of wind.
So we're back again in Airlie beach now, wasting time, waiting for our overnight bus to Hervey Bay, where we're going to explore Fraser Island. We'll let you know how we get on.
Saturday 11th January 2003, Donna writes:
I get to do the typing again, Christian is busy next to me uploading all the lovely photographs for your perusal � do enjoy. I think they give you a sense of the exciting and varied activities and sights we�ve experienced over the last 2 � 3 months. I can�t believe we�re almost a third of the way through our trip. It�s all going far too quickly and reality will hit us before we know it. Arghh!
We had a fantastic day on The Great Barrier Reef yesterday. We snorkelled and scuba dived (dove?) seeing all manner of huge clams, clown fish (In today�s local paper someone got attacked by an large angry one that took a chunk out of his hand), wrasse fish, parrot fish, sea slugs, jellyfish and tons and tons more. Check out the piccie of me looking cool � just to prove we did it.
Wednesday 8th January 2003, Christian writes: (D�j� vu for some who got the email version):
I hope that your 2003 is as pleasant as you could wish so far. We've been off exploring the outback innit. On 2nd Jan we headed off for a 5 day tour of central Australia taking in such wonders as Ayers Rock (Uluru), The Olgas (Kata Tjuta), Kings Canyon and the McDonnell Range. It's been really amazing. Our favourites were the Olgas and Kings Canyon, although I'm really glad we did it just to get a better understanding of the geography of Oz: We travelled for miles (Over 300), and only covered a fraction of the area.
It's incredibly beautiful. Red, red sands and big, big skies. Just as you'd imagine, only bigger. We had to sleep in swag bags under the stars, which was a romantic idea, but Donna didn't enjoy the mossie bites. We were glad to get back to a real bed. We've now landed in Cairns, which is a peculiar place. We knew that we wouldn't be able to go in the sea, because it's box jellyfish season. Donna is suffering boogieboard-withdrawl symptoms. The architecture here is beautiful old colonial style - but it's only a small town really. Weather is very hot and humid with occasional rain storms, but not as hot as where we've just come from. The outback was really hot. Up to 40 degrees - higher in some places.
So we've just booked a few trips: we're off to explore the sky rail over the tablelands tomorrow; then Friday off to dive around the Great Barrier Reef; Sunday we head off to Cape Tribulation for 2 days, then Monday night arrive in Port Douglas for a couple of nights. Then we begin our trek down the coast to Noosa, where we're staying with Alice and Jack (Donna's Auntie and Uncle for those who don't know). So anyway rest assured that we're still having a great time out here.
New Years Eve Update, Donna writes:
Sorry we forgot to gloat at what a great time we had so decided to do it now.
To save some energy for the night ahead we headed out to Coogee Beach to chill. Sydney has it all: great city scape, great beaches, great bars, great galleries and museums. In short it�s just great.
On our way home we collected to provisions necessary for a suitably drunken NYE. Our intention was to dine in the city and then head off the Mrs. McQuaries Chair for a good panorama to view the proceedings. In actuality, we got stuck in the pub The Toxteth (to remind us of Liverpool) and had a job to prise our butts off the bar stools. We did, and arrived in time for the 9 o�clock firework show. 9 o�clock came and went with not a bang or a flash; only the announcement:
�Due to high winds the 9�oclock show has been cancelled.�
Bloody typical the year we travel half way around the world and the show�s cancelled � a truly vengeful God (We�re contemplating becoming Buddhist!).
Unperturbed, we secured a spot by The Rocks and plonked ourselves on a high wall and waited with hope in our hearts. Only 10 minutes prior to kick off and some official looking men tried to dethrone us from our vantage point (head, shoulders and upper torso above the crazed crowd of revellers). We refused to move on the advice of a kindly gentleman who was sure that only the police had the authority to kick us off. Shortly after came a group of pissed off looking policepeople, who walked right past us and casually chastised the security guards for wasting their time (at least this is what I hope they did!). Some more alcohol later and it was the midnight hour. Bang, hiss, crash and an explosion of light filled the air. The display was fantastic as you�d perhaps come to expect. Some cooing later and we attempted to get home.
(Did I mention how brilliantly organised the public transport was? Busses running all night with reduced fares and friendly people in orange jackets telling you where you live and how to get there.)
Anyway, on our way home we called in at Hyde Park (not the London one of course) and salsa danced to the live bands until about 3am when we took our blurry-eyed arses back to Glebe. Yes, it was a night to remember � well what we remember of it was.
We hope yours was equally as cool, all that ours lacked was the lovely friends back home. It was strange to get all the phone calls from loved ones after we�d already partied ourselves out. We wanted to be there doing it all again. There again we�re just greedy, how much fun can two people have?
