So the end of 2002 already! Cripes. But we've seen it out on a high. We nearly had to leave Sydney, because we couldn't find a room. But our hostel at Glebe pulled through. Glebe is basically Bristol, only hotter. In that it is bohemian (for which, read smelly) and hilly.
So we're still loving Sydney. Since we last spoke we did enjoy a fantastic Christmas Day on Balmoral Beach, where we partook of dressed crab, king prawns and champagne thanks to the lovely Lynne, Tracy, and recent lovely Jacqui.
Then boxing day we headed off to Katoomba in the Blue Mountains for a couple of days recuperation. It pissed down all boxing day, but brightened up as soon as T + L left the country. So then Friday and Saturday we enjoyed some excellent bushwalking. As we strolled through mountainous rainforest, Donna casually remarks:
- Oh look, a spider with a red back.
Me: A redback!
Her: Yes, a red back.
Me: But was it a redback?!
Her: Erm... it was black with a red back. What's a redback?
Oh shit.
So then back to Sydney, in which we have become entirely immersed (literally) in the sport of Boogie-boarding. Man! The waves here are... erm... RAD!
So tonight it's off to the harbour to get royally pissed and see the pretty flashing lights over Sydneys peerless skyline. By the time you are clinking glasses, we shall be hungover. So spare us a thought. And keep the noise down.
HAPPY NU-YEAR! See you in 2003!
Saturday 21st December 2002, Christian writes:
G'Day Mate! We arrived in Sydney in the early morning of the 28th, having flown through the night. As we cheerfully boarded the airport bus, I wondered (a) what had happened to the supposed friendliness of the Oz people? I attributed it to the early morning; and (b) what had happened to the Oz summer? It was cloudy and grey.
Both these issues soon were redeemed. Once the Sydneysiders wake up, they are indeed a happy and friendly people; and when the sun broke through the cloud (as it soon did) it was a scorching 30 degrees.
So on the 28th, we just wandered from our hostel down to the harbour. And what a harbour: just in its scale it amazes - the Bridge and the Opera house are a bonus. We now realised where we were. In a fantastically cosmopolitan city, in a funny, sunny country, in the Southern Hemisphere for the first time.
The next day we enjoyed a harbour cruise and ate a picnic in the Botanic Gardens. Then yesterday we explored the Australian Museum in Hyde Park, and then met up with our old muckers Lynne and Tracy in the evening for a few schooners down in the Rocks. There was some satisfaction to be had in meeting familiar faces on the steps of the Opera house - and a great night followed in which I'm rather afraid we dominated conversation with tedious tales of our travels. Well they asked for it.
Today we've just been to the Aquarium upon a recommendation from an old colleague. I'm happy because I've seed a Duck-billed Platypus. Tonight we're off to a carol concert, which should help us feel Christmassy. Although decorations are all around us, it's not the same in blistering sunshine. I'm sure we'll cope.
So merry Christmas to all our readers! Have a great one. We'll be spending ours on the beach with our pals. Pop another shrimp on the Barbie, mate!
Moday 16th December 2002, both write:
And so we are plucked from the bussom of Asia, kicking and screaming, and generally clutching at the passing railings. Can we have been travelling for 8 weeks already? We don't want to leave Asia.
Ah Thailand! Playground of the world. We certainly feel like this has been a holiday. In fact, we feel a peculiar sense of guilt that the whole of this travelling lark has been rather too much like a holiday. We thought that we would have to endure hardship. But no.
Yesterday, we went on a trek to the mountains of North Thailand. We rode elephants, and trekked on foot to reach a remote Moung tribe in the hills. The Moung are one of the 6 hills tribes of Northern Thailand. This particular village had 25 families: a mix of Buddhist, Christian, and Spirit worshipers. No electricity, and a simple existence; it was a pleasure to be allowed to observe their way of life.
In the afternoon we drove to a waterfall, another hill tribe (this time the Karens - not the long necked ones - bah!). Our visit felt like more like an invasion as we weren't the only group to descend upon them. A wedding between two Karen tribespeople was in progress and this necessitated the slaying of animals both for food and as a sacrifice. We witnessed this in the form of a young pig - the squeals were piercing and we were quite upset. It brought home to us how removed we are from this process in the West, we simply turn up for our weekly grocery shop and there it is - bacon prepared and ready for the grill. Our vegetarian conscience panged.
We then went bamboo rafting. Bamboo rafting is a peculiar activity which entails strapping together 7 long canes of bamboo, and then standing on the makeshift raft as it merrily floats down the rapids. I was perched at the back, with a punt-type bamboo in hand, and charged with steering the craft. I am proud to say that I did not fall in. Ah yes - the sense of balance is improving.
Wednesday 11th December 2002, both write:
Where to start? We left Phi Phi with a bang. Or rather we left Phi Phi with a banging headache following the bang. We spent our last night on the island in the main town. Here, a large tourist village has sprung up to provide a fantastic night out. We're rather afraid that we got too drunk on the free cocktails and cheap buckets of Thai whiskey and red bull (ugh). During the evening, we saw a Thai Boxing match, danced to our favourite hip-hop tunes, and saw a Thai Guns'n'Roses tribute band. At least, we think that's what we saw - it's all a bit hazy.
The next morning amazingly, we made the ferry and spent 2 hours solid concentrating on not throwing up. We suceeded.
Ko Lanta is very similar to Phi Phi, except bigger, cheaper, and with roads. And roads necessitate scooters; so scoot we did. We hired a wee honda and explored the Island. On our travels, we found a series of caves near the islands middle. We paid a guide to lead us through a sprawling subterranean mass of tunnels no bigger than yer granny in parts. We wrigled in clay, and emerged, 2 hours later, blinking in the sunlight. Needless to say - Donna was the muckiest of the group.
Yesterday we got a boat to nearby Ko Rok islands - a square kilometre of great coral - a haven for snorkellers. Oh the things we have seen. The snorkelling was fantastic - but the journey there was a bit hairy. We are discovering that, although Donna likes travelling, Donna doesn't like the actual travelling part of it. Again - we didn't vomit - yay!
So today is our last day in Lanta. Tomorrow we fly to Chiang Mai - an extra flight that we've had to pay for (but it's not expensive). Apparantly Chiang Mai is a Must-Do for all visitors to Thailand. Its the capital of the northern territories, and a very ancient city full of Wats. From here, it's a train back to Bangkok for our flight to Sydney on the 17th.
Inadvertantly - Donna just added a fourth rule of Backpacking to our canon. While deciding what to order for lunch, I deliberated over sandwiches or noodles. Deadpan - Donna advises: There'll be plenty time for sandwiches. I assent and choose the noodles. So there, the fourth rule:
There will be plenty time for sandwiches.
Thursday 5th December 2002, both write:
Sleep, eat, swim, eat more, snorkell, drink.
Repeat.
Thailand has been bliss. We made it to Phi Phi Natural Resort as planned, although the journey here was hefty: A taxi to a sleeper train, then a bus, a jeep, and 3 boats to get here. Totalling 24hrs of travel.
But a great resort. We've now been here for nearly a week, and we checkout tomorrow. From here we head to Tonsai for one mad night out, then off to Ko Lanta for more relaxation, and maybe to do our diving PADI.
On the days we've not been slobbing by the pool, we've done day trips out to Phi Phi Leh to see Maya Cove (where The Beach was filmed), and to Bamboo, and Mosquito Islands. The snorkelling here is excellent, as is the seafood. So we feel suitably refreshed now.
Sorry to rub all this in. But you chose to access this site. You knew the risks.
The winner of last week's Haiku competition was Auntie Marchia, age: thirty eleven. Well done, Auntie Marchia - a nice use of our own motif. Your commemorative postcard is on it's way.
Standish to Wigan
The lights bright along King Street
Merveilleusement
No communal baths
Karaoke and kebabs
Just as you'd expect
On to Maloneys
To explore tasty cocktails
Next stop: Wigan Pier
The Orwell Pub named
after a local author
1984
Glorious winter
Colours surround my temples
where my skin wrinkles
I make a day trip
to Pemberton and Beech Hill
Remain unimpressed
The Cherry Gardens
Hostel on a mountain slope
Foolishly I walk
Cruise on the canal
Then a picnic at Haigh Hall
Got the tractor back
Jealous of our Chris
Still touring far-away lands
Wrapt in Thailand now ..............
Thursday 28th November 2002, both write:
Well we made it to Bangkok in the early hours of this morning, with nothing booked. Oh yes... we're getting cocky now. We got the airport bus to the Khao San Road - where all the young people are, and checked in here at the Siam Oriental Inn (double rooms B480 - about 7 quid).
We should be exploring the city now but it's so hot and big, and we can't be arsed. We will return in 2 weeks, so we'll do it then.
We've just booked a sleeper train to Krabi for tonight, so it won't be long now until we're snorkelling - which is just as well, considering we've been carrying our snorkells in zero degree temperatures. The plan is to go from Krabi to Phi phi - to the Natural resort as recommended by the brothers Stretton.
Japan was amazing. Why do we like Japan so much? We couldn't begin to list the ways, but it falls into two broad categories:
a) because it is like home
No, we don't travel the world to find another England, but geographically and climate wise - it's another funny,cold, rocky island. And just these small similarities made it easier to assimilate, and gives us a confidence to explore where we would have felt intimidated elsewhere.
and
b) because it is so completely different from home
It just is! It's a mad place! What are they doing? Sleeping on the floor? Sumo wrestling? eating translucent eels raw? Taking baths with their extended family? And the language! What's that all about? Oh those crazy Japanese.
Donna adds:
After writing the haiku we had yet another fantastic experience, there were so many. Christian as you well know keeps harping on about "spirituality" and so wanted to spend some time in the company of Buddhist Monks - as you do. After a trip that took enternity - 3 trains, cable car and a bus, we found ourselves pissed wet through in Koyasan. This is the place with the highest concentration of Buddhist temples and shrines and is surrounded on all sides by 8 peaks that symbolise the petals of the lotus flower. We spent the night with two monks (no, not in the sense your minds work!) and it was such a tranquil and contemplative experience. We found ourselves going to bed at 7 o'clock - just to think about things. The next morning we were awoken at 6am by the tolling of the bell and joined our hosts for morning prayer. The main man had suffered a kind of stoke, and according to the medical profession he shouldn't have any use of his left side, yet he was able to get around with little hinderance (it reminded me alot of the CP kids at HMS). He put this down to his faith and belief. At the age of 54 he still has another 30 years to serve. Now that's optimism.
Christian adds:
Of the many images that will stay with me of Japan, 2 come immediately to mind.
As we arrived in Beppu station, instead of the usual west/east exit signs, the signs read "Mountainside exit" and "Seaside exit". And this is what it seems like throughout Japan. Great big mountains sloping off into the sea, with a town placed inconveniently inbetween.
The second image is printed on the poshest toilets there. It's a sign for the bidet button which looks like a rounded W (representing the bum) with a dotted lined fountaining underneath. This has no special significance. I just like it.
Sunday 24th November 2002, both write:
Hong Kong to Japan
The bright lights of Tokyo:
Ikebukuro
Hot communal baths,
Karaoke and sushi
Just as you'd expect
Ueno-koen
To explore the museums
Next stop: Kyoto
The Ryokan named
After a local author
Murakami-ya
Glorious Autumn
Colours surround the temples
Where Buddhist monks chant
We make a day trip
To Osaka and Kobe
Remain unimpressed
Awa-Ikeda
Hostel on a mountain slope
Foolishly we walk
Boat cruise through the gorge
Then a bus to the vine-bridge
got the wrong bus back
Missed our connection
Still stranded at the station
Lost in lost Japan
Made Hiroshima
To see the Peace Museum
A sobering place
Nex Myajima
Stunning mountainous Island
We walked our legs off
Sumo tournament
Big fat men in nappies fight
Dazzles and excites!
On to Aso-san
Ascent to live volcano
Pretty amazing
Japan's Labour day
Relaxed in Kagoshima
Wandered round the stalls
Sunday in Nara
To see the massive Buddha
Sixteen metres high
Two more days to go
A Buddhist retreat calling
Time to meditate...
Think you could do better? We'd love to hear the recent events of your life in Haiku form. Please send us your entries, along with your name and age. One lucky winner will have their poem published on this very site, and will receive a commemorative postcard! So get writing! (We regret that we cannot return any of your submitted entries).
Sunday 10th November 2002, Donna writes: (added later)
Ah! The haven that was HK; orderly streets, clean toilets (though not always western style) and non-curried cuisine. The sense of chaos we felt in India seemed to melt away as we boarded the A11 from the airport. Everything was so easy - they had luggage lockers, bank machines, and a grasp of the English language. The Hostel was in a heavenly location. The room was basic but clean, and there were other travellers. Until now, we'd successfully avoided them. Now we were shoulder to shoulder with the breed. It was actually quite nice; we sat, chatted and invented new bizarre vodka-based cocktails (bamboozle - 3 parts bamboo juice, 2 parts vodka, 1 part 7-up). Christian even initiated a trip to the pub to which the first rule of backpacking was adhered: never pass up an invitiation. The 2 additional rules are:
- don't scrimp on a trip - this may be your only chance
- if people are queuing for food, join them - it must be good.
Christian adds - I liked the people of HK, they had a very unaffected nuttiness. Not "look at me - I'm weird and cool" but just plain, singin-in-the-subway mad.
Wednesday 6th November 2002, both write:
HK rules! After India this seems like Utopia. Everything is spotlessly clean and efficient. The airport was amazing! Our luggage was there before us.
We're currently atop Victoria Peak looking down over the whole of the city - which is beautiful. Our hostel is great too, and it's nice hanging with the young people. More details will follow - but so far we really love the place.
Tuesday 5th November 2002, Christian writes:
A sight we have often seen as we have traversed this varied landscape has been a perfectly fecund tree growing in desert. Which leads me to wonder how it can survive in such an arid environment.
Forgive my lapse of prose style in the previous India entries. This Dumbing Down may be attributed to my excitement at the newness of it all. I think that I described India as "Nice" and "Great". India is not nice, nor exactly great. Rather it is; soporifically hot, hypnotically beautiful, hand-tremblingly terrifying, achingly sad, hilarious, plegmatic, and unforgettable. On the occasions that we have spoke to the Indian people (in which I do not include the many, many coversations to the effect of 'give me money'), I have found the Indians to be genuinely interested, fiercely proud, and resolutely optimistic.
It would be irresponsible to leave India without mentioning the poverty. It smacks you as soon as you arrive, and breaks your heart. You, of course, become hardened to it - you have to. However, as a westerner, the guilt is always present. But what can we do? If we give out money freely, it messes up India's own economy (though I'm not saying we should give nothing to the beggars). Charity would help, but is a treatment rather than a prevention of the problem. Three things that I would suggest we all do are:
- Holiday in India. You'll love it, and tourism is an industry that India does really well.
- Buy fair trade produce wherever possible on imported goods.
- Boycott the big companies that profit directly as a result of third-world labour. Cheif culprits are: McDonalds, Nike, the Gap, Starbucks.
Just small things, I know, but they may help someone.
It is said that necessity is the mother of invention. This is certainly the case with India. Despite everything: despite the drought, despite the poverty, despite the constant wars with neighbours - India flourishes. In creativity, culture, cuisine, and positive attitude, India is miles ahead. Like that tree, growing in the desert.
