BEGINNING A FLAT OR BELL-SHAPED TUTU

The only different between these two types of tutu skirts is in the way they are sewn- with flat tutus, you have the option of alternating up and down, or going up- in bell-shaped tutus, you sew it with the tulle going down (if none of this is making sense, don't worry).

Your ordinary flat or bell-shaped tutu is going to take up at least 6m of tulle for a petite adult, or teenager. It can be more or less, particularly if a person is very tall (ie has very long legs, the skirt needs to be longer) or very small.

Your first layer, or plate of tulle is going to come just about to the top of the knee, if the dancer bends from the waist to a 90 degree angle. Often it's easiest just to measure from the hip line (or wherever the seam will be) to the top of the knee.

The amount of layers you have ranges from about 7-9, although 9 is generally for the pedantic flat tutu makers. Most people tend to do only 6 or 7, professional tutu makers tend to do about 8.

Once you've figured out how wide the top layer needs to be, simply subtract about an inch or two for the second layer, and so on until you've got all your layers down. The easy way to tell if you're cutting off too much or too little (please do all this working out BEFORE you start cutting into the tulle!) is if the last layer is either too little, or non-existant, or if it's too long. Mine was about 1-2 inches, give or take a little.
If you're lucky, you should be able to cut your tulle like this:
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6
5
4

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It's my assumption that you've cut out the tutu bodice and panty and sewn both - separately - except for the Centre Back seam.

When you've cut out all your lengths of tulle, grab your first piece. Tightly gather one side (
Don't know how to gather? Click here), but don't undo the tacking/basting stitches until AFTER you've sewn the thing onto the tutu. Believe me, it's not worth it! If the edge of the tulle is uneven (chances are it will be) have the uneven side towards the body, on the gathered side.

Just before you sew the panty/bodice/tulle together (all edges on the wrong side of the fabric/inside, for obvious reasons), you may wish to mark out with a fabric pencil, guidelines for the tulle on the tutupanty itself. From the top edge (remember to leave allowance for the seam), mark out regular intervals that finish before the leg opening. You don't want to have to cut your recently-gathered tulle into half! you want to leave most of the crotch area free of tulle - tulle isn't all that comfortable ! lol. Although some people like the "fluffy bum" look (what a cute term...) so if that's what you want, go for it.

Once you have your tulle skirt guidelines drawn up, sew the all-important waist/hip seam, joining the bodice, panty and first layer of the tulle together.

If you're using a ZIP (invisible or regular, doesn't matter, although regular zips are probably stronger), now is the time to sew it on. If you're lining the bodice, press or tack the seam edges upwards.

Click here to see a back view of how your tutu might look like at this moment in time.

Click here to continue working on the tutu - sewing on the remaining layers of tulle.

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Last updated: 28/8/04
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