Lancia Delta HF Integrale 16v
Engine rebuild & conversion to 8.5 C/R
Updated on 26th October 2004
Graeme Scott
[email protected]
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1.) 1991 16v Integrale. Bought off my friend when the cambelt failed. The engine already had a small knock from the bottom end so a full engine rebuild was required.
2.) 16 bent valves.  You can see where the pistons have impacted the valves.
4.) Block was stripped, cleaned and painted.
As I already had an Evo 1 which I am going to restore and modify I decided to try out the 8.5 C/R modification to this engine as a prototype. Here you can see that I've had 1mm skimmed from the block face. I have a special Evocars chip for this mod.
3.) Engine Removal. Bad back time !!
5.) I had to replace the crank as it had already had a regrind. The garage that assembled the engine must not have cleaned the oil galleries out as the journals were scored. This must have been the cause of the knocking. I had a spare crank which also required a regrind due to scoring on the journals, only I knocked out the oil gallery caps and cleaned it thouroghly.
Update: To be on the safe side I have decided to use a brand new crank as the power output of the engine will have increased.
unfortunately I will have to start the assembly all over again.
6.) Pistons installed to check piston to head & valve clearance. You can see the bores have been honed with a Flex-hone.
8.) Piston at TDC is proud of the block by 0.65mm.
Compressed Spesso GpN headgasket thickness is 1.9mm. Therefor static clearance between piston and head at TDC  1.9 - 0.65 = 1.25mm.
1.0 mm is the minimum recommended.
I also fitted and timed up the head with a used head gasket and plasticene on the piston. I then turned the engine over once to check the valve to piston clearance was OK.
7.) Piston protrusion fron the head at TDC measured with a DTI fitted to a magnetic base.
10.) Reassembly showing oil pick-up.
18/02/04 This is the current state of the engine, but it will have to be stripped again to fit the new crank.
9.) Reassembly using Loctite 501 sealant with no gasket on the upper sump to block surface.
11.) Evocars rebuilt the head using some second hand valves supplied by me. The valve-guides had already been replaced 10K kms ago when my friend first bought the car to cure a top end knock.
The quality of the work Evocars performed on the head is outstanding.
12.) Lovely !!
13.) The re-assembled the bottom end with a brand new crank.
14.) Spesso group N gasket in place.
15.) Sump baffles modified to keep oil at the oil pickup during extreme cornering.
16.) Reassembly
17.) Reassembly
18.) Reassembly
19.) I skimmed the flywheel plus opened the centre out by 5mm should a Helix clutch be required in the future.
20.) Old & skimmed flywheel.
21.) Clutch fitted, ready for the gearbox.

NOTE: The photo editing in the background was due to a box with my address on it being in frame.
22.) My homemade clutch centering tool.
24.) Ready for timing belt
23.) Gearbox fitted
25.) Diff inspection
26.) All the differential gear spindles are still firmly staked in place.
27.) Torque splitter and centre diff fitted.
28.) Torque splitter and centre diff fitted.
30.) Belts installed and covers fitted.
29.) Fitting timing, balancer shaft belts and Alternator/steering pump belt.
31.) Engine in place ready to be lifted in.
32.) Engine installed.
33.) Fitting exhaust manifold and turbo.
34.) Radiator & oil cooler fitted.
35. Back on its wheels
23/04/04: The engine started easily for the first time yesterday after I connected the starter motor solenoid wire to the right connection on the motor. But elation and excitement quickly gives way to paranoia as you start to imagine strange sounds coming from the engine. Everything seems ok though and it sounds pretty smooth. I 've also connected the prop shaft and drive shafts and moved the car a few feet under its own power, so the clutch works ok.  Tomorrow (25/04/04) I'll drop the mineral oil I put in to get it started and flush all the build debris from the oil system and put in some 10/50 semi synthetic for a 500 miles.
Headlamp wiring schematic
This uses MK1 Polo H4 outer beam units & standard spot lamps using relays.
Note: This schematic is for 1 side only. 2 relays required per side.
Mounting MK1 Polo headlamp units.
04/06/04: Took the car for its first drive. Everything works fine and the engine sounds good. I still have to adjust the base boost so I had to be careful with the throttle.
I kept the revs below 3500 and smoothly varied the load for the first 30km's. Only issues are an oil level and brake pad wear light on the check panel.
I am waiting for a pair of new spot-light units.
08/06/04: While rechecking my fuel pressure I could hear a strange high pitched gurgling sound coming from the fuel pressure regulator fuel return line where it connects to the plastic fuel line at the bulkhead. On investigation I found this small white piece of plastic inserted in the pipe presumably there in a misguided attempt to alter the fuel pressure.
It made absolutely no difference to the fuel pressure. Maybe just made the pump work a little harder.

14/07/04: The car is now complete from a technical point of view. It has had the fuelling verified on a dyno and has covered over 1000 miles without major incident. The only problems have been having to change the alternator becuase it would not start charging until the revs had exceded 2000 rpm and changing the exhaust cam due to a worn lobe on cylinder 4. Looking back at my photo record I can see this lobe was already worn at reassembly but I did not notice.
I was able to set the TDC sensor by using a protractor to put a mark 15 degrees advanced from the TDC mark on the bottom pulley and then connecting a strobe and moving the TDC sensor so the 15 degree advance mark on the pulley aligns with the TDC reference mark on the oil pump. (Advance at 850-950 rpm = 15 degrees +/- 2 degrees.
I have had a bespoke 2.5" stainless steel exhaust system made locally near Newcastle. Looks and sounds really good. I'll post some pics when I'm back in the UK.
How I set the position of my TDC sensor :
http://geocities.com/gjscott_uk/TDC_sensor_setting.html
In July I moved to California in a internal job transfer and live in a town called Mountain View which is about 40 miles south of San Francisco at the southern tip of San Francisco Bay. As a reuslt of this I had to leave my Lancias in the garage at home and buy a car here. I did think of getting a WRX or an Evo 7 initially but then decided I could get one of them anytime.
Instead I bought a 2000 Ford Mustang GT. In my opinion it has that same kind of mean ugly look that an Integrale has. It has a 4.6l V8, manual transmission, leather interior and all the bells a whistles you can think of. The noise it makes it absolutely glorious. I did want to get the 32v Cobra version or the supercharged SVT but because I'm new in the country and have no insurance history it would have been too expensive. Its not an Integrale but it really suits the road condition here, and in the wet I've never had soo much fun. It has covered 24k miles and cost only $13k.
Cars are so cheap here, a new Evo VIII comes in at about 18k pounds so if I fancy some real performance next I may get one of them.
The 2003 Xmas meet we had in Northumberland.
From left:
Alans heavily modded Evo.
Ollies Evo 1
Pauls Evo 2.
LEFT: My other projects. A 1983 Prisma 1600 (my first car & labour of love) on which I replaced  the inner & outer rear arches (donated and grafted from a mint crashed 1600ie), inner and outer sills (new) and a tuned Strada 130 TC engine.
And a 1993 Evo 1, which I plan do do a nut and bolt restoration inc seam welded shell & engine power upgrade.
If the 16v engine is good then I will do the same for the Evo but with more goodies for power. Manifold, gas flowed head etc.
I also have a 356mm AP brake conversion & 17" TH2's to fit.
Credits:

Thanks to  Evocars (www.Evocars.com), Matt Clark garage in Hexham, Northumberland (01434 603013), and PTS in Luton for their services, spares support and technical help.
I'm sure I'll need a whole lot more before the end of these projects.

Please email me if you require any help or info. Address at the top of page.
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