THE COLLEGE VALLEY & THE BORDER LINE
The beautiful and remote College Valley runs, almost
straight as an arrow, from the tiny hamlet of Hethpool
to the very edge of England`s most northerly county.
It has been described as one of the most awe-inspiring valleys in
Northumberland and history oozes from the hills which roll down from the
border. These are quiet hills which reach out towards the 601 metre high summit of the Schil, a
hill which proudly greets tired Pennine Way walkers on the final few miles of their arduous
journey. On this walk to and from that majestic summit, you will cross the
little visited tops of Loft Hill, Saughieside Hill
and Madam Law as well as the slightly more popular Black Hag, White Law, The Curr and Great Hetha. You will be
utterly besotted.
The College Valley
The Walk
1. The College Valley lies 7˝ miles from the small north
Northumberland town of Wooler and is reached along an
unclassified single track road heading southwards off the B6351. There is
parking just beyond the hamlet of Hethpool, at the
end of the public road immediately after the cattle grid (GR NT 893281). Records of Hethpool date from 1242 and when William Weaver Tomlinson
wrote his `Comprehensive Guide to Northumberland` in 1888 it was, “…..a lonely
hamlet, consisting of a few shepherds` cottages, perched on the high ground
above the College Burn”. Since then the exceptionally fine Hethpool
House has been built and a row of elegant cottages has replaced the original
shepherds` cottages. Both Hethpool House and the
cottages are built in the Arts & Crafts style. Time to head into the valley
along the narrow tarmac road and within less than 200 metres
you will encounter the remains of a Neolithic stone circle. On the grass, to
your right, you will see a number of stones lying in a fallen position. After
exactly one mile of easy walking, when the road rises alongside a plantation,
it is time to bid farewell to the valley. Turn sharp right onto the forest
track, signposted `Trowupburn 1 mile Border Ridge 2˝
miles`, which climbs around the northern flanks of Sinkside Hill and very soon you will emerge from the trees
(GR NT878266). You will be looking down towards the farmstead of Trowupburn, nestling beside the burn of the same name and
surrounded by steep sided hills, where in the early 13th century
land was given to the Cistercian monks of Melrose Abbey.
2. Pass through the five bar gate and begin
your climb towards the top of Loft Hill, which lies to your left. Keeping the
forest edge within sight, you will need to choose the best route up the steep
and pathless hillside. There will be some respite as you reach the saddle
between Sinkside Hill and your first hill of the day.
Nearby, within the forest, there is evidence of an Iron Age settlement.
Continue to follow the fence as it bends to your left and, after approximately
100 metres, turn away to your right to head upwards
to the 416 metre top of Loft Hill (GR NT877257). From the small summit
cairn there are good views. Leave Loft Hill in a south
westerly direction, heading for the five bar gate and a rough track through the
forest. Once over the second gate, continue straight ahead through a
recently harvested section of the forest as far as the third five bar gate. At
this point be sure not to follow the direction indicated by the Public Footpath
arrow but instead continue in a south westerly line up the rough and trackless
slope to the 478 metre high summit of Saughieside Hill (GR
NT868249). The actual summit is at the southern end of the flat top and
from this airy spot there are extensive all round views.
The summit of Loft Hill
3. You must now head due south and on leaving
the hill aim for the visible quad track which climbs the distant slopes towards
Black Hag and as you head forwards you will soon join a track which will
eventually lead you to these slopes. Once reached, follow the track and the
nearby fence as they head in a generally south westerly direction and, after
crossing easier, if sometimes wet, ground, you will soon reach the barely
noticeable top of Black Hag (GR NT861237). You are now at the border between England and Scotland and you are about to join the route of the Pennine Way. Climb over the border fence and, once on Scottish soil, turn left
downhill. On reaching the depression, cross over the stile,
and, back on English territory, turn right and begin the climb up the Schil. Just 15 feet short of the magical 2000 feet mark,
the rocky tor-topped Schil
is one of the finest in the Cheviot Hills. It is a place to explore, to scramble about and then to rest awhile,
contemplating the walk so far. See if you can find, hidden amongst the rocks
which lie to the south east of the summit, the small plaque in memory to “Steve
Bertram who died doing a sport he loved”.
The actual top of this excellent hill lies in Scotland, across the post and wire fence (GR NT869223).
4. You must now retrace your steps for one mile
of easy downhill walking as far as the stile over the border fence. Cross back
over into Scotland and follow the track which is signposted `Pennine Way Kirk Yetholm 4˝
miles`. Where the track splits into two, just below Black Hag and the obvious
Corbie Craig, be sure to follow the left hand spur signposted the Pennine
Way low level alternative route. On reaching the
five bar gate turn left and, after first dropping downhill slightly, follow the
track and the adjacent fence which rise gradually towards the 564 metre top of
The Curr, a splendidly bulky Scottish hill. When the track begins to bend away to the left, head straight on
across flatter ground to the summit triangulation point (GR NT850233). From here there are wonderful views in all
directions. Retrace your steps back to the five bar gate. Ignore the gate and
continue straight ahead up the heather covered slope as far as the small gate (GR NT857237) and the Pennine
Way high level route. Go through the gate. The
next 1˝ miles of walking over the grassy surface of Steer Rig is one of the
highlights of the day. As you swing along, straddling the valleys of the Halter
and Trowup Burns and with superb views it will be
difficult not to feel a sense of elation in these high windswept Cheviot
Hills. Back down to earth with a bump and it is soon time for the
short lung bursting climb to the 430 metre top of White Law. Take time to enjoy
the views back over to Black Hag. At this point you must part company with the Pennine
Way, which now turns towards its final goal of
Kirk Yetholm.
5. Turn right through
the small gate (GR NT857261) and, heading north eastwards, drop gently downhill
to Wideopen Head. Straight ahead Madam Law lies on
the opposite side of a track which arrives from Trowupburn,
to your right, and then heads north westwards towards the ancient border
crossing of the White Swire. First recorded in 1222,
the White Swire was one of seventeen such Cheviot
border crossings mentioned in a state paper of 1543 and, standing here, you are
sure to feel the cold breath of history on the back of your neck. Cross the
track and follow the fence the short steep distance to the top of Madam Law
marked by a small cairn (GR NT862267) on the other side of the fence. Just
before midnight on the 24th March 1943 a Dornier Do
217E-4 aircraft crashed into this 397 metre high hill following a raid on the docks
at Leith, Edinburgh. All four crew were killed on impact. Now
turn south eastwards and descend towards the track leading down to Trowupburn, joining it around the 300 metre contour. At
this point head north eastwards for half a mile, ignoring any side tracks, over
short cropped grass to join the northbound road (GR NT877268) from Trowupburn, just below the south western flank of Great Hetha.
The Schil
6. Turn right along the road
and then cross the step stile to follow the steep permissive footpath which
leads you, not always obviously on the ground, to the top of Great Hetha. The 343 metre high summit (GR NT885274) stands at the north eastern end of the hill. From
here there are panoramic views of the College
Valley and the surrounding hills.
It is a hill of great historical interest. To the west of the summit there are
the remains of a Roman period settlement, consisting of at least eight hut
circles laid out along a series of terraces cut into the lower slopes of the
hill. On the summit itself, there was a strongly defended Iron Age hillfort surrounded by two ramparts of earth and stone.
There is an entrance, on the north west
side, with traces of an in- turned bank where it passes through the inner
rampart. There was also an Iron Age hillfort on
Little Hetha, less than ˝ mile
to the north. Leave the summit to the north east, following the `Hillforts Trail` fingerposts towards the small plantation
which lies adjacent to the valley road. Keep to the right of the plantation and
on reaching the road (GR NT890273),
turn left and a gentle stroll will soon bring you back to Hethpool
and the end of an exhilarating walk in these quiet border hills.
The Pennine
Way and White Law
|
Distance
|
19.3km. (
12 miles )
|
|
Total
Ascent
|
911 metres
|
|
Grading
|
Strenuous
|
|
Start
& Key Grid References
|
Hethpool
( NT 893281 ), (NT 878266), (NT 877257), (NT 868249), (NT 861237), (NT
869223), (NT 850233), (NT 857237), (NT 857261), (NT 862267), (NT 877268), (NT
885274) & (NT 890273)
|
|
Time
|
6 hours
|
|
Nearest
Town
|
Wooler
|
|
Terrain
|
Mixed
fell, often pathless, with steep ascents & descents, good stretches of green
tracks/paths, some boggy ground.
|
|
Maps
|
OS
Explorer ( 1: 25000 ) OL16. Harveys Superwalker
( 1:40000 ) The Cheviot Hills
|
|
Accommodation
|
Youth
Hostel Telephone 01668 281365, small hotels & guest houses & two
caravan parks all in Wooler
|
|
Public
Transport
|
None
(except to Wooler )
|
|
Tourist
Information
|
Ingram National Park Centre. Telephone: 01665
578890.
|
Devised, written &
photographed: Geoff
Holland 2006