THE HARTHOPE VALLEY HORSESHOE
The three highest of the Cheviot Hills cluster around the upper reaches of the Harthope Burn, peering down into the narrow valley below.
The Cheviot, at 815 metres, is the highest of these
three hills and is also England`s highest hill north
of Cross Fell. It is a whale of a hill and, as Northumberland`s
premier hill, it is a must to climb. The second highest, Hedgehope
Hill, is a majestic hill, and when viewed from the Harthope Valley, is perfectly conical. The third and final hill of
the trio, Comb Fell, is a hill of little consequence although its height and
its relative remoteness make it an attractive destination. This walk takes you
on a horseshoe shaped journey across all three of these high hills, crossing en
route the watershed of the Harthope Burn. This is a
classic Cheviot route. The rewards are extremely high.
The Cheviot and Scald Hill
The Walk
1. The Harthope Valley lies south west of the north Northumberland town of Wooler and is the perfect place to start your journey across these high Cheviot Hills. An interesting 5
mile drive into the valley, via the oddly named steep hill, Skirl Naked, will
lead you to a point where the Hawsen Burn meets with
the Harthope Burn. Here there is adequate roadside
parking (NT 953225).Sitting beside the Hawsen Burn is
a circular stone sheep stell, so shaped to prevent
snow drifting. There are numerous such stells in the Cheviot Hills. On the other side of
the single track road, a signpost points the way to Housey
Crags and your first hill of the day, Hedgehope Hill.
A short stretch of path, adjacent to a stone wall, leads you to a small wooden
footbridge over the Harthope Burn. A quick climb
through the trees and soon you emerge into the open where the impressive Housey Crags tower above you. Once across the step stile, a
fairly steep climb up a clear, green path will all too soon bring you alongside
and then behind the crags. If energy levels permit, a quick scramble to the top
of the crags will be well rewarded. These are probably the best known and most
frequently visited of all the Northumberland crags.
2. Continue to follow the path, aided
occasionally by a directional fingerpost, onto Long Crags which at their
highest point are more than 420 metres above sea
level. From here there is a
tremendous view of much of
the way ahead. The shapely Hedgehope Hill, with Threestoneburn Wood clinging to its eastern flanks, can be
seen across the flat expanse of Kelpie Strand. Across the valley, the Cheviot
displays its long, broad back and rubs shoulders with its smaller neighbour, Scald Hill. The adrenalin begins to pump! Once
across the crags and the step stile (NT 956213)
the cotton grass rich moorland of Kelpie Strand makes pleasant walking as you
now head towards the `cone` of Hedgehope Hill. On
reaching the 450 metre contour, the path begins to
swing towards the south-west as the serious climbing gets underway. The
gradient steepens as you gain over 260 metres in height in just over half a mile of
walking, before finally reaching the 714 metre high summit of Hedgehope Hill.
Hedgehope
Hill across Kelpie Strand
3. This is certainly
the most shapely and distinctive of all the Cheviot summits, a place where
three fences meet beside a jumble of small stone shelters, all of which are
topped off, like a giant cake, by a triangulation pillar. The views in all
directions are outstanding so take time to `circumnavigate` the stone top. On 8th
April 1941 three High
Explosive bombs fell one mile to the south of Hedgehope
Hill, in the vicinity of the Het Burn. The craters
were reported as being 66 feet wide and 30 feet deep. Three years later, on 15th
May 1944 a Bristol Beaufighter aircraft was on a
night time navigational exercise when it crashed into the upper eastern slope
of Hedgehope Hill. Both Belgium crew were killed.
4. Time now to head in a
west south west direction on a 1˝ mile journey to the unspectacular top of Comb
Fell. Keeping the post and wire fence to your left, an easy downhill stretch
leads very quickly to the lowest point between the two hills. Here you will,
for a short time, need to pick your way through peat hags and across
potentially boggy ground. There is no real difficulty. Once past this area, the
gentle gradient soon brings you, at 652 metres, to the eastern summit of Comb Fell.
It is barely noticeable! Continue with the fence across the flat and generally
wet top and then descend slightly until you reach a fence which rises up from
the Harthope
Valley, below you to your right. At
this point (NT 915185) and without
crossing the fence, you must leave the high ground as you head north westwards
along the fence line to the watershed of the Harthope
Burn. But first, why not continue with the curve of the fence for a short
distance to visit the rocky `pyramid` ahead; Coldlaw
Cairn. Here you will feel a real sense of remoteness whilst looking down
towards the infant River Breamish. It is not
obligatory, but you will not be disappointed. It is a tremendous vantage point
with great views to Windy Gyle, Cushat
Law, Bloodybush Edge, Hogdon
Law, Shill Moor and much more. It is a difficult place to leave. Retrace your
steps and once back across the stile follow the fence towards the head of the Harthope Burn. Whilst the going is reasonably easy, there
are two fairly substantial peat hags to negotiate, so be prepared to use your
hands. The watershed area is known as Scotsman`s Knowe and soon you are rising again towards Cairn Hill.
The view from Coldlaw Cairn
5. When you reach the
directional fingerpost, take a deep breath and, keeping the fence to your left,
begin the steep climb towards the top of Cairn Hill, the south western outhill of the mighty Cheviot. At 777 metres high, Scotsman`s Cairn (NT 903195) is a splendid viewpoint.
Across the valley the ridge between Hedgehope Hill
and Comb Fell dominates the view as wave after wave of hills roll away to the
south. Across the step stile, the signpost points to the west and the Pennine Way. To the north west the stone men of the distant Auchope Cairn can be seen standing guard over the
magnificent cleft of the Hen Hole. Perhaps a walk for another day! Now you must
turn right to make the short journey to the summit of the Cheviot, the highest
of all the Cheviot Hills. Once you have passed the small lough, the huge triangulation pillar can soon be seen ahead
as you now make your way easily along the stone pathway. This is the third such pillar to have stood on this lonely spot, the previous
two having long since sunk into the peat. The summit plateau of the Cheviot
consists of blanket bog and has been designated, along with a large part of the
surrounding area, as a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Continue along the
stone pathway and then over the ladder stile at the eastern end of the summit plateau.
Continue to follow the fence as it starts its descent towards Scald Hill. As
you head steeply downwards, there are fine views down to the Harthope Valley and beyond to the Northumberland coast.
6. Immediately after a
short col, a quick and easy climb brings you to the
top of the 549 metre high Scald Hill. The actual top lies just across the post
and wire fence where there are good views down into the quiet Lambden Valley
and across to Broadhope Hill and Cold Law. After a
further short descent you must part company with the guiding fence (NT 933222) as the route back to the
valley floor now heads downhill in a generally easterly direction. To your
left, Blackseat Hill stands behind the New Burn,
whilst to your right, Hedgehope Hill reminds you of
your earlier efforts. Enjoy the rest of the comfortable descent and when you
eventually arrive at the valley road be sure to turn left for the few hundred
metres stroll back to the Hawsen Burn. The Harthope Valley
has been described as “one of the most picturesque and unspoilt valleys in
Northumberland, a favourite with birdwatchers and walkers“. As you wipe the
sweat from your brow, this is your moment to enjoy the delights of this
tranquil valley.
The Cheviot
summit triangulation pillar
|
Distance
|
16 km (10
miles ) (including Coldlaw Cairn)
|
|
Total
Ascent
|
855 metres
|
|
Grading
|
Strenuous
|
|
Start
& Key Grid References
|
Harthope Valley (NT 954225 ), (NT 956213), (NT
915185), (NT 903195) & (NT 933222)
|
|
Time
|
5 hours
|
|
Nearest
Town
|
Wooler
|
|
Terrain
|
Mainly
mixed fell some pathless, boggy in places, with steep ascents & descents,
a stretch of stone path & a very short stretch of tarmac
|
|
Maps
|
OS
Explorer (1:25000) OL 16. Harveys Superwalker (1:40000) The Cheviot Hills
|
|
Accommodation
|
Wooler
Youth Hostel Telephone 01668 281365. Small hotels & guest houses in Wooler & two caravan parks/camp sites
|
|
Public
Transport
|
None (
except to Wooler )
|
|
Tourist
Information
|
Rothbury National Park Centre. Telephone 01669 620887
|
Devised,
written & photographed: Geoff Holland 2006