Friday
was a bad day... It started badly with half my breakfast (kewi fruit kept in the community fridge) missing... and got worse as I misplaced the bike keys. I got my spares out but in doing so spilt some hair shampoo out of its new flip top pack into a bag. Washed bag, got old screw top container and transferred the shampoo into the old container. I went to a boat shop to see if they had a replacement for the broken pannier lock. They say that this type of lock is "not good" your better off with a hasp and staple and padlock and they don't have it in stock, but should have as they have a space for it in there display. Finally left. Stopped in at the wetland observatory, I spent half an hour here this time, an hour last time, little has changed or I would have spent longer. About 12 stopped for a counter lunch, looked at some souvenirs and returned to find someone had taken my lunch... not a good day.
Entry to Kakadu is now $16.50 and the camping ground in Jabiru is $10, no communal kitchen, fridge but the washing machines get my off whites back to white. The Kakadu wind festival is on, so I see a few art works, bit small in quantity. Beer is $4.10, more expensive than Mornington and no dirt!
There is a concert by an Aborigine band just returned from Germany, $5, or a free talk by a ranger on Kakadu, I take the free talk. I take the free talk by ranger Alex. It is fairly good.
Sat
Out to Ubirr do the walk looking at the scenery rather than the art, which I have seen before. A ranger, Jo, gives talks on both the Abos and the landscape. Back to the visitor centre and look at the slide show and a video on one Abos view on the mining lease. Shopping and lunch then on to Nourlangie Rock with more ranger talks and walks. Back to camp.
Sun
Move to Merle so I can see sunset at Ubirr. On the way I go to the wetlands hides near Mamukala, where some people go to the hide to TALK! The noise scares the birds away, I leave to do the longer walk, on my return there is peace in the hide as the talkers have left and the birds return... On to Cahill's crossing where I do the walks. One of the walks is close by the river. As I walk along I find some bushes flattened by wild life. Within 100 metres I find a crock floating in the river, he disappears as soon as we see each other. I walk quickly from here on! Over the sand bar there is a dried up creek, which the track follows. Now there is sign of a goanna going up the bank and back down... large goanna or small crock? I continue to walk fast. Back to a billabong there are a number of wild pig that run away from me as well as some water birds. Lunch at the boarder store. The buffalo meat is very stringy. Not recommended. Out to Ubirr where Jo is still doing the talks. Sunset is ok. Back at camp I cook and go to sleep with a few mosquitoes, the citronella candle does well. During the night I wake to animals foraging for food in the bush. I find my torch but they are in the wrong location, they, whoever they are, hear me and run really fast around the tent about 3 times. They are small, bigger than rats but don't hop the way roos do. Probably bandicoots.
Mon
To Jabiru for post and shop. Then Nourlangie Rock another walk and a good photo. Then Yellow waters. $9 for camp and $34 for the cruise earlier tomorrow morning. Did a walk out to a river, and another walk out from the boat ramp.
Tues
Up very early for the cruise. Looks good, bit cold, I have taken a long shirt and a t shirt for some warmth. Quit a few birds but the light levels are a little low for good photos. On to Gunlom falls. There is a small amount of water coming into the falls but no where near the amount I saw in December some years ago. The plunge pool is also about 0.5 metre lower in water level. Back to the bike and I notice that one of my new sandals (bought in Kununurra ) has fallen off the bike. Fortunately I find it on the road out. Out to Pine creek. Then on to Katherine and Springsure homestead.
Wed
Washing done I start to leave but notice that the 3 pm homestead tour is cancelled and the 10 am tour starts in 10 minutes so I stay. The tour is OK. Then on to rare rocks where I buy 2 rocks from timber creek. Then railway station and its bits and pieces. Lunch at the old crossing. I go out to R&M motorcycles but they have moved shop, decide against a new front tyre, this one should last the distance. Back to camp and I do some work on the bike. Loosen left hand side crash bar and lean bike onto a larger piece of firewood. Take off left side rocker cover and check exhaust valve clearances, closed up, but the bike is till warm so I go have a beer. OK bike is cold and valve is still closed up so I adjust it. Check the carby pilot jets, they have some clag on them so I clean them. Then I check the right hand side, inlet OK, exhaust valve close right up, so I adjust it. Reassemble. A beer to finish off, as I'm drinking I realize that I have not tighten up the left hand crash bar... finish beer and then finish job!
Thurs
On starting no alternator light... I go to a service station and fill up. Again no alternator light. So I pull off the service area and pull the front cover, short the rotor and still no light. So it is probably the light it self. Off with the headlight cover to get access to the light and substitute another light. It now works, so I go into the service station to buy one, they only have 5w types. I put that on the oil light and use the 3w light on the alt. Leave for Cutta Cutta caves, they are ok but really just another cave. The rock formations on top of the caves are more unique. I now realize that the blinker lamp near the alternator lamp is also not working.. Must buy some more of these lights and keep some spares in the headlight shell. I stopped in at Mataranka and went to the hot springs, "CATS" were at the facility, and about 8 semis are a bit hard to miss painted black. The hot springs are ok but a bit crowed. I go back to Else hot springs, about 5 km north. These are less crowed and were described in "We of the Never Never". I have lunch here and watch a 4wd drive in , around the parking area and back out. I guess they can say "We saw the parking area at Else Hot Springs"? A second 4wd does the same with a caravan in tow. I think they don't stop because their is no shade to park in.. These hot springs are as they were, no tiles or other embellishments except for ladders and timber walk so you can get in and out without getting your feet dirty. I take a detour to see the graves and original homestead site some distance off the main hwy. On to Daly Waters, beer $60, camp $3.30 alight!
Fri
Left on a long run to Heart break Hotel on single lane black top. And on to Borroloola for lunch. There is a good historical museum hear in the old cop shop. A good supermarket with cheap fuel. Its now 3 pm and I don't think staying in town will add anything to the experience so I travel on. As I go I calculate the distance to Wollograng and think that it is doable. The kangas come out to play with me, the sun sinks but I make it without using the headlight, other wise called a bug attractor. I see the Olympics are on, go set up my tent and come back for a beer and a look at the opening ceremony of the Olympics
Sat
Gregory Downs
I go in to Burketown for supplies. Then out to Gregory Downs. The mining company is building a new bridge so they can take fully loaded road trains over it , and the bride is much higher than the old bridge so it will not be closed as often nor as long as the old bridge with flooding. On to Lawn Hill the road out for 47 km is being worked on for the mine, it will probably be tar... at least the creek crossings will be, the amount of concrete being pored at each one is incredible. The rest of the road is still better than it use to be. Lawn Hill campsite has deteriorated, the grass is no longer green and they have increased the number of camp sites. The amenity block remains the same and at least it is clean. I stay out at Adel's grove.
Sun
The walks in at Lawn hill are the same, may be some track maintenance but I cannot tell. At least the tourist busses have disappeared. Last time there were 3 a day, now they say maybe one in 3 Days.
The amenity block at Adel's grove is a beauty, the night light is outside and shines in through a window. The bugs stay outside with the light and don't come inside! The floor is smooth finished (no gaps as you have with tiles) in a brown colour with multicoloured splotches, hiding any dirt very well. All the corners are rounded reducing the number of places dirt gets trapped. The floor slops to the drains with no puddle points. Some one knew what they were doing making this!
You can e-mail me at Yahoo. File dated 15 November 2000
Back to my home page Back to index for this trip previous section of this trip next section of this trip