Weapon Construction Notes:
What is a safe weapon? A safe weapon is one that will not leave marks, bruises, or broken bones or teeth when it strikes a person. If your weapon hurts you when you are struck, it is not safe. Weapon surfaces must be padded as per the weapon descriptions in Weapon Types above. Materials that have been approved for weapon cores are carbon/graphite rods (golf shaft), kite spar, bamboo, PVC tubing or fiberglass. Other materials will be checked for safety on a case-by-case basis. Metal and wooden cores are will never be considered legal.
Use good, stiff foam to pad your weapon. Closed-cell foam is superior and will give good distribution of impact and absorption. The foam must be fixed to the shaft in some way, whether by tape, glue, or other sturdy method. Weapons must be covered in a durable, opaque cloth. No tape can be visible on the striking edge.
Weapon tips (points, guards, pommels, etc.) and striking surfaces must be at least 2.25 inches in diameter (flat blade weapons must not be able to pass their tip through a 2.5 inch diameter ring) in diameter. The ends of all weapon cores must be blunted by capping them with a layer of foam and tape. Stabbing weapons should include extra padding on the tip to ensure safety.
Magic components used in combat (magical balls, etc) must also be padded and be at least 2.25 inches in diameter.
General Notes:
Remove all sharp edges and points from both ends of the core and other building materials.
Some cores may require capping to prevent tearing through the foam. These can be bottle-tops, PVC caps, a build-up of duct tape, etc.
Funnoodle� is the dominant weapon material at the moment. It is a long tube of foam, which is drilled out through the middle, and is between 2.5 and 2.25-inches in diameter. It is available with narrow openings that will fit golf shaft or kite spar, and with larger openings that will fit PVC. Be careful of the quality you use. As a test, grasp the �noodle with one finger on the inside and one on the outside. Squeeze. If you feel any significant pop or tear, it will not last very long on a weapon. Good �noodle should spring back with only a slight squish.
If the core rattles inside the foam, tape or glue a foam strip onto the core or wrap it in a thin layer of sheet foam. Take a few test swings and let the weapon "loosen up" before deciding if the core fits.
If the foam is taped to the core, use a strong tape that will not tear easily when twisted. Fiber tape (with imbedded fiberglass strings) is excellent for this.
The cloth cover should be light and durable, and a fairly tight fit, since a little flapping cloth can seriously affect the weapon's performance. As a rule, cut the cloth to the weapon blade's length plus three inches, and a width of the diameter plus one. A simple cover is a leg from a pair of tights, which is stretchy enough for a good fit, very durable, relatively cheap.
Since covers are generally far more durable than the foam, secure the cover with tape or a drawstring. This will allow the cover to be reused after the weapon needs rebuilding.
Some people like a textured grip on a handle, while others like a smooth sliding grip. For better gripping, wrap the handle with a layer of friction tape, sports tape, or cloth-based electrical tape. Fastening a rubber cover also works well. For a smoother grip, duct tape (heavy), electrical tape (light), or a section of PVC slid over the core is effective.
Shield Construction:
A typical shield has some sort of backing, arm straps, handle, foam padding, and a cover.
Backing: Plywood is study and durable but is heavy. The thin stuff may be lighter, but it is not so durable. High-impact plastics, such as barrels or trashcans, work very well if heated and flattened out. Barrels are extremely durable, but some types can resist heating and will try to return to their original shape. Trashcans don't have this problem but are often too flexible to be effective. Plastic snow boards (toboggans) are light and sturdy, but they are rather small (medium shields). Boogie boards can be found larger and (in some seasons) fairly cheap, but are thick and must still be padded (hard foam is not padding). Aluminum is light, durable and easy to work, but is expensive. Layers of fiberglass are ultra-light, ultra-durable and relatively inexpensive, but require a lot of skill to assemble properly.
Strapping: In most cases, straps should be put in place before the foam is attached. They can be bolted on or attached with plastic zip-ties or with epoxy. Leather or nylon straps can be found in the form of seat-belts, dog collars, and so on. They are quick to attach and very durable. Leather sheets are far more comfortable, but require greater care in assembly and maintenance. Cloth is cheap and comfortable, but tends to wear out faster. In all cases, make sure the straps can be tightened over your bare arm, and leave enough room for armored sleeves (or a thick jacket).
Handle: Handles must be wide enough to keep from binding the hand, high enough that the shield does not press too hard on the back of the hand, and thick enough to provide a comfortable grip. It is mounted the same way as straps. Some people like to put a slight angle on the handle for a more comfortable grip. It is often necessary to put washers or spacers between the handle and backing to raise up the handle enough for a gloved or armored hand to fit.
Padding: Open-cell foam (couch foam) is cheap and effective, and is easy to get, but it is bulky. Closed-cell foam (camp-pad) is more compact, but several layers may be needed and can be expensive. Plank foam is durable, has enough "cush" to be legal and is strong enough that it does not require backing, but can be pricey in large sections. High-latex foams are extremely durable and very "cushy" with a minimum of thickness, but it is very heavy. All edges have padding as well. The current minimum standards for rigid-core shields is at least 1 inch of foam on the face around the edge.
Covers: Shields covers can be made of a wider variety of cloth than weapon covers because they are not actively striking someone, which makes the heavier clothes (like light canvas) viable. Covers are normally attached by drawstrings (in a variety of forms), though some people prefer sewing them on or using fold and snaps. Velcro has been used with some success.
Arrow Construction:
Arrows are generally fragile and are often broken under the constant rigors of fighting. Arrow shafts made from graphite offer a flexibility and resilience not found in their aluminum or wooden counterparts. Wooden arrows must be taped along their entire length. All arrowheads must be removed from the arrow, and the end must be built up with a sufficiently strong material to resist tearing through the foam under repeated impacts. Arrows may not be drawn beyond 28 inches, and must have a stopper in place if they are longer.
Tips must meet the same standards as melee weapons, but a tip that is deemed too rigid will not be allowed. Fletching and nocks must be in good repair, and tips should be checked regularly for degrading foam. Properly colored covers may be used in lieu of ribbons.
Projectiles:
A blow by any part of a thrown weapon counts as a hit. All parts of these weapons need to be strike-legal. Javelins must strike point first to count as a hit, but must have courtesy padding along their entire length. All projectiles must be at least 2.25" in diameter.
Thrown projectiles, with the exception of javelins, may not have solid cores. Materials you may use for projectile cores include foam, fabric, and other soft, non-granular materials. Pennies, sand, and the like may not be used.
Armor Construction:
Damage to armor only applies to the hit location that was struck, and armor applies to the entire location equally. Damage that exceeds the armor value (i.e. arrows, berserk barbarian weapons, great weapons, etc.) wounds or kills the target. Mixed armor types will be averaged. Armor may not be stacked or layered to increase value unless explicitly stated in these rules.
Armor must be partially visible, and must be announced if asked. Armor should weigh close to historical equals to receive full value.
Straps and other material that hold your armor on do not count as part of the armor, for either coverage or averaging, unless they are specifically built as such.
Standard criteria are 16-gauge steel for metals and 1/16 inch for leather. All armor must be safe, with no protruding edges that could injure someone. Armor values may never be greater than 6 points unless you are a 6th level warrior or certain monster classes. Armor is rated as the material that it most resembles, thus plastic and other non-metallic armors can be disguised or passed off as plate or chain mail only with difficulty.
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Chapter 6 : Battlegames
Subduals and Prisoners:
During class battles, prisoners may be taken by surrendering or by being rendered �unconscious� by a killing blow preceded by the word "subdue." The person will then be unconscious for 60 seconds. The prisoner may be subdued up to 5 times. Any more hits will result in his death. A prisoner's equipment must be kept within 10 feet of him and cannot be destroyed. Rescued prisoners must still count the required time before they are considered recovered. A Heal spell will remove all subdual effects. Certain defensive enchantments will prevent Subdual, such as Bless, Protection from Subdual, etc.
Armor negates a subdual blow and takes damage as normally. Even if this damage is enough to pass through the armor, the target is not affected by the subdual blow. A subdual blow striking a person who is unaffected by Subdual does not wound or kill. A subdual blow to a limb will render that limb useless for a 60 count. If a person has a combination of any three subdued and wounded limbs, that person becomes subdued as stated above. Stabbing may not be used to subdue.
Deaths and Lives:
Immediately remove yourself from impeding play on the battlefield once you have died. If you want to get into the spirit of things, then fall down and scream. Make it dramatic. Reeves may give you a bonus for a good death. Then report to nirvana. The reeve in charge there will take your name and record your time. Deaths are for 5 minutes though a bonus will subtract 2 minutes and a penalty will add 2 minutes. The number of lives you get varies with level and class. You are out of a battle once you have expended your last life and left the field. When returning to life from nirvana you must return to your base and announce �Alive' so that it is audible out to 50 feet before reentering the battle. Dead persons on the field must hold their weapons over their heads.
If the battlegame does not call for a Nirvana reeve, one must wait in Nirvana for a 300 count before returning to life. Most battlefield effects will not work on a dead person once he has left of his own choice from where he died, with the obvious exception of not impeding play. Effects that will function on dead players who have moved are noted in the descriptions. Dead players (provided they are not affecting or impeding play) may stay on the field as long as they want. A person may voluntarily take a game death at any time, but must immediately go to Nirvana and may not be raised from the dead in any manner unless Summon Dead is cast upon them first. Dead players may not move if they are currently the target of a magic or ability that affects dead players such as Steal Life or Resurrect.
Holds:
When a hold is called all players must stay where they are and be quiet. No tactical maneuvering is allowed and weapons may only be collected if a reeve gives permission. If you really do get hurt, yell "hold." Remove yourself from the battle and reenter behind your own lines once you have recovered. Deliberate faking of a game death or real injury is not allowed. Battlefield participants should only call a hold for injuries or when a potentially dangerous situation arises such as a seven- year-old child straying onto the battlefield. If you are involved in a dispute then go find a reeve or remove yourselves from the field until the issue is resolved.
There are two types of Holds; general and personal. General holds apply to everyone on the battlefield and can only be called by a Reeve. Personal holds apply only to a specific person or a small number of people. Personal holds can be called by a Reeve to resolve a dispute or examine a possible injury without bringing the entire field to a stop. In the case of a head hit, a personal hold is automatically in effect whether a Reeve has declared it or not.
Battlegame Rules:
1) Switching classes or sides during a battlegame is not allowed unless specified by the scenario or by a Reeve.
2) Never handle anyone's personal property with out first having their permission.
3) There cannot be more than 1 bow to every 5 people on a side (round up). Crossbow pistols count as half a bow.
4) Each side may only have one wizard, healer, druid and bard per ten people, rounding fractions up. Therefore, a team with seventeen people may have no more than two of each magic-using class.
5) Players who break the rules may be removed from the game by a reeve.
Battlegame Restrictions:
The following activities are strictly forbidden:
1) Maneuvering or engaging during a hold.
2) Striking at reeves or non-combatants.
3) Calling a hold to retrieve spent items or derive other advantages.
4) Trying to influence a game while you are dead.
5) Deliberately mimicking an ability that you do not currently have, such as casting a "pretend" Finger of Death as a barbarian. Grand standing and bluffing is fine, as long as it can't be confused with a real ability.
6) Using rules loopholes or gray areas to derive an advantage on the battlefield.
Game Etiquette:
While not absolutes, the following conditions have stood the test of time and should be observed:
Do not use a hold to gather or retain spent equipment or valuable game items. A reeve or the other team may grant a person the opportunity to pick up spent equipment if they are simply asked. Do not use a hold to avoid a death or get out of a bad situation.
While it is honorable to return the other team's spent equipment, it�s not mandatory. Don't delay or stop play to return equipment. Similarly, don't attack someone who is being kind enough to return your own items.
As stated before, players should remove themselves from the field when discussing disputed blows or rules. This is not always practical in the immediate heat of the moment. If you see a dispute, do not engage or strike at those involved. By the same token, don't use the excuses of returning equipment, a headshot, or resolving a dispute to save yourself when the enemy has you dead in his sights. Example: You are accidentally struck in the face, and simultaneously cleaved in two from behind by another opponent; you are still dead.
Part 4
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