2004 Journal
Thursday 24 June 2004
We have had a new BETA 2.1 litre motor installed over winter, which had necessitated first constructing a new engine mounting. All is completed, except there is a problem of the batteries not holding charge, so they are disconnected until we arrive and go through the electrics with Roget when we arrive.
On the way we are having 5 days in London, with son Michael and Sorella
and meeting 4
month old Elliot, our first grandchild. He’s really cute and we are enjoying helping to look
after him.
We had a straightforward trip via Sydney and Singapore. The tube trip across London went smoothly in mid-afternoon and a helpful Aussie helped lift the cases up the stairs at the end at Mile End. We fly to Paris on Sunday.
Thursday 1 July
We were sad to leave London, Sorella, Michael and young Elliot (he's lovely and a parent’s dream, though that's probably due to good parenting!). We found the drive from Paris to St Gilles here, very tiring and will consider the TGV next year. However it did enable us to have a night with Ian's sister Lois, Philippe Dominique and Frank, and gave us a car for shopping once we were here.
We have been here for three days now and are nearly ready to move on. The new engine is marvellous! Roget has done a marvellous job. Quiet and smooth; we will take it for a run this afternoon. In addition we have fixed all electrical problems, installed a new set of batteries, the windscreen wipers work, we have bought a new fan ready for the real heat (we found it very hot the first two days, but are adjusting), new ropes, 2 fenders to replace damaged ones. The inverter switch played up, but Paul fixed that. We have a new gas heater for when it is cooler. We nearly bought a new gas cooker, but they don’t include a griller, so we are still searching for a replacement for one of the burners on the old one. The sliding rear door has stuck since we bought the boat and after using brute strength to remove it, Vaughan has it running smoothly. Now we only have to look at the engine once a week, we will buy a rug for the floor. The box where we store hoses etc now has a tidy hatch cover. The EREWHON name plate and flags are up. Last night we took Vaughan and his wife to dinner in appreciation of the help he has given us.
We were given the use of a luxury boat while ours was finished, but we enjoyed sleeping in our own bed last night, with the mosquito nets to protect us! Now it’s cleaned u,p we are happy to be "home" again. The mooring at Beaucaire was less expensive than we had budgeted, so we still have funds! We have booked there for next winter.
We have consumed vast quantities of water these first days, but are adjusting to the climate. Today or tomorrow we will be off to Aigues Mortes and our journey will begin.
Saturday 3 July
We left St Gilles on a glorious sunny day about 9.30 and cruised to Aigues Mortes where we moored in the old lock next to the Super U supermarket. Ian filled 3 drums with diesel while Lorna filled the pantry! Saucisse on the barbecue and we feel back to normal. The boat performed beautifully.
Sunday 4 July
After a good sleep in we moved down the canal 2 km to moor near the street market. We looked for a floor rug/carpet unsuccessfully, but bought food, herbs for the "garden", and a chicken for lunch and dinner. Now we are moored at Maguelonne ready to catch the little train to the beach in the morning.
Monday 5 July
The day dawned cool, so we gave the beach a miss and moved on to Frontignon, passing the water reserves, including the flamingos. Just before the lifting bridge, that opens only three times a day, we moored on a handy low wall, where Ian was able to scrub and touch up marks on each side. Lorna used the Ajax in the stern and the boat looks much smarter. The weather looks calm to cross the Etang du Thau tomorrow. We already have a bottle of Frontignon Muscat, so won’t get another at the moment. Some Aussies on a hire boat stopped for a while. Late in the evening we chatted with a local who does up boats. A lovely story for finding a blessed seagull which he nursed back to health. He was German, has lived in France for many years and speaks good English, but in French blessed means injured.
Tuesday 6 July
We woke early after a noisy night from the nearby passing trains. Overcast, but not much wind, and we passed under the lifting bridge at 7.30am heading straight for the Etang, an hour away. We played with our new toy – a portable Echo GPS – and were surprised how much difference the wind and canal current made. We were expecting about 8 kph but got as little as 7.1 kph! Ian did two loads of washing as we crossed the Etang. This encouraged drizzle, so we finished with a cabin full of laundry. The crossing was uneventful, and after 1 lock we arrived under the trees at Agde where we had moored, sheltered from the heat 3 years ago. The day finished with a nice pork stew and several glasses of wine!
Wednesday 7 July
We decided to take a bus to nearby Cap d’Agde. The town is a modern architectural wonder; Mediterranean style houses and apartments, interesting street layout with lots of large round-a-bouts, and at the end a huge pleasure port we barely saw, and a somewhat disappointing beach. Lorna braved the water while Ian lazed. After a packed lunch, we bought a couple of cornets, when Ian discovered he had lost his wallet with some money! We asked the bus drivers, but no luck. t was an annoying end to a pleasant day.
We will move on tomorrow as we meet Freda at Beziers on Friday.
Thursday 8 July
We passed down the Agde round lock, filled the tank with water and headed up the Midi. We passed the huge fun-fair, which we have seen several times, but not operating. Apparently it opens in the evening. We stopped at the Crown Blue base at Port Cassafieres and asked if they had any spare gas burners for our old model stove. Great luck. We now have a full set and a spare. We still couldn’t find the Champion Supermarket (later- it is by the bridge between PK 215 and 216). When we stopped for lunch we met Aussies John and Jan Doubty from Adelaide in their beautifully fitted out 92 year old Dutch working boat ARJO. We got to Beziers about 6pm, moored below the lock in the shade, and walked up to Mr ED as we call the local supermarket. Salad with Geziers de Canard as a treat for dinner. We had a drink with Craig and Raewyn Bell from Taupo NZ, who were enjoying their first day/night in their recently purchased Crown Blue Sirocco boat.
Friday 9 July
We tidied up and pushed across the canal to follow the shade. In the late afternoon we mounted the lock into the port and at 5.15 headed for the station to meet Freda. The train was late, she wasn’t on it, so we had a drink and returned to find her waiting on the platform. She had been on a later train which arrived in between two advertised times!. Any way we walked back and enjoyed escalopes of turkey for dinner.
Saturday 10 July
Ian and Freda explored Beziers, including the aqueduct, Cathedral where hundreds of
Cathars were slaughtered, a few shops and the gardens. After lunch we topped up the water,
said farewell to Jack and Jan again and headed up the big lock to the aqueduct and Fonserenne 7 lock flight. It was a dream with only 2 boats in the each lock at a time. We
checked Colombiers for the O’Driscolls DEESE but got an SMS an hour later to
say they are in Capestan where we will meet them tomorrow. We climbed up to l’oppidum
d’Ensurene but arrived just as it closed. No historic culture, but still the
spectacular view over the Etang de Montady.
The Montady Basin
Sunday 11 July
Off at 8.00am for Capestan at 9.30. A quick chat with Roly before shopping for food
at the market under Capestan’s soaring church. How could such a small town justify
such a huge structure?
Then it was back to Deese for a long lunch and to share experiences. And later
aperitifs on Erewhon before dinner. A great day. In the evening a peniche passed through
scraping the bridge as it went through. It had been cut into two sections.
Monday 12 July
Strong winds (Tramontane?) as we progressed. We had lunch is Le Somail when we were passed by the split peniche again. Then a short session of degustation in the cave at Ventenac en Minervois before continuing on to the first lock. Here we caught up to Calypso with its South African owners. They had been held up an hour by the peniche that has to split into two parts to pass through the locks. When the lock closed at 6.00, a frustrated group of boats remained below the lock, not making it to Homps as planned.
Tuesday 13 July
Ian and Freda cycled 2-3 km into Homps for bread and we all watched like hawks for queue jumpers at the lock! No problem, but the peniche was already away in the next lock. We passed through lovely Homps without stopping, waving to some Kiwis on a hire boat, then caught up to and passed the peniche who’s captain allowed us through the next lock ahead of him. The whole day looks more promising. We are pushing the revs a bit higher at 1750 rpm, getting close to 10.5 kph (using the GPS Geko). 35 hours on the clock now! We have been interested to watch the effect on speed of shallower water. It makes a big difference.
We made it to Trebes about 6 pm and topped up our supplies at the local shop. Freda explored the old own and after we had gone to bed we heard the local !4 Juillet celebration fireworks.
Wednesday, 14 July (Bastille Day)
We left Trebes in time for the lock opening at 9.00 am. A lovely day and the first sight of the Citee as we entered Carcassonne was impressive as usual. Ian and Freda checked out the town (which was all closed) and got info on day tours by coach. We will take a tour tomorrow.
After dinner we walked along with 700,000 others to a bridge over the river to watch the spectacular fireworks display over the walled city. What lovely people. Excited applause, and praise, then quiet, orderly dispersal. We were in bed by midnight.
The crowd waiting for the display
Newspaper photo of the display. Midi Libre has better equipment than us!
Thursday 15 July
This afternoon we took a 6-hour coach trip to inspect the Cathar Towers at Lastours, and also to Giant Caves at Cabrespine. We explored the first on foot in hot sun, but it wasn’t too energetic, though the beer after was very welcome. The cave is huge and the formations pretty; though we have seen better at home. A good day.
Friday, 16 July
We explored the Citee in the morning. Supported by the tourist shops, it gives a good impression of its life and appearance up to 600 years ago. It was finally starved out by Simon de Montfort’s troops with support from the established church. After a late lunch and filling with water which later proved to be tainted by chlorine, we headed west for a night at Vallesquelande, one of Lorna’s memorable spots. Unfortunately the vineyard she remembered had been pulled out and the town is modernising. The coop is sparkling from new stainless steel. Ian and Freda explored on bikes as a thunderstorm threatened, but didn’t happen.
Saturday, 17 July
Ian (and Lorna) were keen to see the NZ v Aus rugby on TV. We planned a stop at Bram, but when Ian cycled into town (an old bastide) he found no bar with Canal+, so after lunch we continued on to Castelnaudary, climbing up a number of double, triple and finally a quadruple lock. We had a strong tail wind and Freda used it to cycle most of the way on the towpath. As we tied up, some NZ’ers on a boat next but one to us introduced themselves. (David and Sue Thurston from Akaroa and Martin Journeaux and Jacqui Nevell from Waiheke). We asked them to keep the match result to themselves and Ian cycled up town to find a bar to watch a late replay of the game. Success, so we had a quick tea and with South African, Roger we walked up to the bar and watched NZ beat Aus in a terrible game played in continuous heavy rain. Back to the boat and a joyous celebration at a nearby table with all the above and a couple of Aussies (Greg and Cecelia Berrington on SHIRALEE) who have bought and are preparing to depart on a new (to them) ex Crown Blue boat.
Sunday, 18 July
A quiet day; laundry, reading, chatting and bridge for Freda with the American neighbours. We met Brian and Andrea Stitson from Napier who where cycling through France and passed by on the towpath.
Monday, 19 July
Lorna and Freda checked out the market and stocked up the larder. Ian used the local
internet provider and read the incoming mail and also checked the bank account –
all’s well!
We bought a pre-cooked crockery pot containing a cassoulet de Castelnaudary that we ate for Freda’s last dinner with us, that night. Then we walked Freda to the station to catch her train to Frankfurt via Toulouse the Massif and Paris, which left at 11.15 pm.
Tuesday, 20 July
Ian tried to send emails from the Crown Blue base who were obliging, but the computer couldn’t activate a dial tone and he eventually gave up. It may be their access number so he will try again. We also admired Greg and Cecelia Berrington’s SHIRALEE. They have had a survey, which will reduce their insurance premium considerably.
After lunch we cast adrift with the intention of mooring at Port Lauragais, but were disappointed to find it was now a moderately expensive stop. As we don’t need electricity and water we continued on to the next lock, where we had the company of 3 other boats including a NZ hired locaboat. We have passed the summit of the Midi/Garonne and this is the 2nd lock down.
Wednesday, 21 July
No bread with our meusli, and we left at 10 am. There are some nice locks in this stretch and we continued until we could see the Montgiscard Intermarché through the trees and tracks on the bank. We stocked up as well as explored the bricolage. We could fill with diesel here too, mooring 200 metres further along.
Thursday, 22 July.
We spent the morning on maintenance and late in the day headed 10 minutes on to
Montgiscard lock where we moored. We met Lin and Beverly Wilson from Auckland on their
hire boat and shared cocktails.
Friday, 23 July
We are now in Toulouse where we will stay for the weekend. Three years ago it was Ian’s teeth that had a problem, this time it’s Lorna’s turn to need treatment. It’s quite warm (about 30º at teatime). I will try and send emails at the capitainerie tomorrow.
Saturday, 24 July
Success. We have succeeded in sending the email using IPASS from the capitainerie. Our NZ friends from Castelnaudary have joined us and this afternoon we shared a bottle of Rosé at the Rondebar and watched the nail-biting match between All Blacks and South Africa.
Sunday, 25 July
Explored the Sunday market, looking unsuccessfully for a nice rug for the floor over the engine that we no longer have to inspect as regularly! Shared a few drinks with the NZ’ers and a boat of South Africans as the sun set and a near full moon rose.
Monday, 26 July
Odd jobs and a final visit to the dentist. Rang NZ today and all seems to be going ok with family, house etc.
Tuesday, 27 July
We left Toulouse about 9 am, to go down the first three locks early, and then the long
boring run down the automatic locks to Montech. We turned up the Montauban Branch to the 3rd
bridge and moored at a quiet mooring at La Court – St Pierre. The
local kids arrived in the
evening and played pentanque. Nice kids and all away home about 10.00pm.
Wednesday, 28 July
Hot. But a quiet relaxing day and we joined with the others in port for a shared dinner under the trees in the evening.
Thursday, 29 July
Back to the main canal and on down the lateral, passed the inclined lift, to Castelsarrasin. A very pleasant stop, though we initially drove though the town 1 km closer to the supermarkets. We helped Martin and Jackie with a few little jobs on their boat and shared a few drinks.
Friday, 30 July
Relaxation and a few odd jobs. Then Nick turned up at the port, so now we are three. He had camped overnight about a km down the canal!
Saturday, 31 July
We left Castelsarrasin before lunchtime; down 1 lock and parked under the motorway, in the shade and walked to the supermarket to stock up the wine supplies. We really are finding the bag-in-box to be a better standard than cheaper wines in bottles. We have at least 1 each of red, rosé and blanc always! Our main criterior is that the alcohol % must be 12% or more!
After crossing the long aqueduct over the Tarn River, we moored under the trees by the canal, above the last lock into Moissac, until 6 pm when we moored on the shady side of the port until after dinner, when we changed sides for electricity. This keeps the fridge cooler than the gas does.
Sunday, 1 August
Another hot day and we went down the lock for the day, on to the River Tarn and moored in a shady spot under a tree. Nick was first in and disappeared over the horizon, and soon after he swam back, the two of us got in. Then we saw how grubby the lower stern was and scrubbed it. All in all, it was a great day. We returned up the lock before it closed at 6 pm. A thunderstorm passed a few miles south of us!
Monday, 2 August
This morning we explored the magnificent Abbey, built on the site of an earlier church from 1040 AD. Then after lunch and a load of washing we continued through the swing bridge, and down 8 locks to Valance d’Argens which is ready for tomorrow night’s son et lumière. We have free power and mooring with electricity and a front row seat for the spectacle.
Three locks up we passed, and stopped to talk to M et Mdm Gonzales on Blue Bird who we had first met in 2001 and saw again last year. We enjoyed a short update with them today. Blue Bird is a modified hire boat with a steering position added on its roof.
Tuesday, 3 August
Ian and Nick biked over and up to Arzviller which Lorna and Ian had visited 3 years ago. Good exercise and Nick can understand why it has been selected as one of the 10 most interesting in Europe. Meantime Lorna visited the market. Then this evening, after a shared dinner of boaties, we watched the magnificent son et lumière based on the history of life on the waterway over 100 years. Professional and passionate, again including great fireworks as well as the movie-like cardboard set on the opposite bank, with 400 actors! The rain held off till it was over.
Wednesday, 4 August
It rained today. Not heavy, but quite steadily. We have progressed to Boe and are moored 100 metres above the bridge to the supermarket ready to fill with diesel tomorrow. But we were unable to start the 3-way fridge on gas today, so Nick and Ian have been tracing the gas line back to the tank. This necessitated removing a shelf and stripping off the wall lining in the kitchen. They tidied up the tube here which used to supply a heater which we have removed a couple of years ago. But the problem was just under the regulator in the supply splitter. Over the years a tarry condensate had accumulated and blocked the outlet to the bottom one (to the fridge). We even found parts for modifying the line in stock! This explains why the fridge hasn't cooled as effectively recently.
Thursday, 5 August
The fridge is working well, and today Nick and Ian filled the boat with diesel, using the bike and trailer to carry 68 litres a trip (209 litres total). Lorna stocked the larder, and by lunch we were in Argen central port. After 2pm, we walked through town, including checking the email and bank account at the Mairie. Nick checked out travel alternatives.
We tried to cross the aqueduct to go down the four locks on the other side of the river, but apparently, the lock is shut an hour early to allow time for all locks to be negotiated before 7 pm. So we returned 2 km to the shade under trees, for the night. Had a chat with 2 Aussies on an ex Connoisseur, Burra Billa, that is shared with 2 other couples on a rotating system.
Friday, 6 August
After our customary baguette, we crossed the magnificent aqueduct, where we met the scouts we had seen a couple of time before peddling a home made raft. We gave them a tow into, between and though all 4 locks on the system. A lot of fun and laughs.
We had waited for several minutes for a hire boat to cross the aqueduct and share the locks down with us. They passed us between the locks and although we were only 400 metres behind them, they closed the lock on us. It left a sour taste! And although it shouldn’t, rather spoiled an otherwise lovely day.
We passed Najila and also a hire boat (Condom) crewed by Kiwis that caused some vulgar comments. We moored for the night at Buzet, under the trees between the two ports. Nick checked the post, and in the evening we dined ashore at La Vigneron Restaurant, which we highly recommend. The €14 set meal, with soup, a trolley of entrees, a choice of 3 mains, another trolley of deserts was great value.
Saturday, 7 August
We thought we would watch the All Blacks play Aus at 3 pm, but when we arrived, it turned out that we had been misled, and they didn’t have Canal +. So we biked on, up to the Buzet Coop Cave and sampled a few local reds. We liked the reds and bought 3 bottles and a 10 litre bag-in-box of their AOC red, but the rosés were disappointing. Great fun, though, and NZ lost the rugby anyway!
Sunday, 8 August
Nick left this morning on a borrowed bike, with a huge pack on his back. He will explore the local region, sleeping in his tent, then by go rail to Bordeaux for a couple of nights before meeting us at Valance sur Baise. We did a load of washing as we went down the lock on to the Baise and cruised up to Vianne. This is a lovely walled town (an old English bastide village). Ian’s sister Lois and husband Philippe arrived about 7 pm and we enjoyed a chat, a quality sauterne and lovely meal, during all of which we had our first thunderstorm of the season.
Monday, 9 August
A cloudy day, and another thunderstorm tonight. Ian worked on the leaks today and only one was still leaking during the rain. Today we continued up the Baise to Nerac, the most beautiful inland port in France. We have caught up to Najila and the 4 Kiwis, and met Liz and David on Astrid. They were here for the wine festival over the weekend, and had no intention of slowing down on the wine tasting. We, of course were happy to join them, Ian promoting as usual the quality of bag-in-box wine. We have19 litres of red wine on board, in BIB, and a couple of boxes of Rosé. We are drinking more Rosé these days.
Tuesday, 10 August
We tried to use IPASS to send our email today, but couldn’t get it to work on a line needing 0 to get out. But we did read our inward mail. Its our lifeline with family and friends, though we are using the phone more, especially the SMS. Another party tonight, but we left early.
Wednesday, 11 August
Tonight we are moored beneath the bridge at Montcrabeau. We were front boat sharing the locks with a French family in a Locaboat behind. At the end of the day they shared some blackberries they had picked while waiting for us to open the locks. It was hot today (34º) and the shade from the bridge was welcome.
Thursday, 12 August
We are now in the Condom! It’s a lovely port, and again we have our Kiwi mates. Free to moor and a once only charge of €3.30 for electricity. The next lock is closed for repairs, so we may have trouble getting to Valence sur Baise to meet Nick.
Friday, 13 August
We were advised the lock is repaired late last night and so at 9.30 am we left for Valance. Another followed on our tail and others were preparing to leave. It was a quick run up the three locks (one, a double) and we arrived about lunch time, but were surprised no others arrived. About 4 pm two lock keepers asked us to return to Condom, as the lock was again faulty. It took almost an hour to descend the lock, as the motor was overheating and would only run a few seconds at a time.
We met Peter McChesney on Kapiti that evening – three Kiwi boats in port. He is on his own at present and shared our Gesiers du Canard (Duck’s Gizzard) salade with us.
Saturday, 14 August
Ian cycled to Valance s/B to meet Nick who arrived exactly at 12 noon. They cycled back the 9-km, under the mid-day sum, through an avenue of trees each side of the road, with Nick leading with his huge pack on his back. We were only took 40 minutes. Some reading, an attempt to send emails, a shopping expedition to Champion supermarket and a shared dinner with Peter finished the day.
Our new fan is in almost constant use when we are in port on hot days. When Lorna is preparing meals it sits in the corner blowing a steady breeze. This is Lorna’s best buy just as the clothes spin drier is Ian’s one.
Sunday, 15 August
Ian tried a last time to send email, and was allowed to use the Capitaine’s computer to check incoming and the bank accounts. All is well and we are now under the bridge at Montcrabeau again. Ian and Nick checked out the liar’s chair and a few of the local liers. It’s a lovely quiet spot, close to a swimming pool, free with electricity and water. Another cold salad tonight, as the temperature is still 34ºC.
Monday, 16 August
Monday doesn’t seem any different from Sunday! We had a heavy thunderstorm last night and it was uncomfortably hot before hand, and suddenly we had to close all hatches to keep dry! We had a leisurely cruise down the locks to Nerac this morning, as all but one were ready for us. And going down is a piece of cake. Nick is off to check out the lovely town and we are catching up on writing and reading. The thermometer's reading 31ºC inside and 37º outside.
Tuesday, 17 August
Peter from Kapiti shared dinner last night and around mid-night we had to close all windows as a heavy thunderstorm struck for over an hour. It seems to have bounced oil from on the water up the sides of the boat and will be hard to clean. We have had a lazy day, walking around the old town, which is full of medieval houses etc, supermarketing and reading. Our neighbours from La Rochelle shouted us an aperitif of Pineau de Charente. Lovely 17%, slight muscat flavour and sweet. But back to Chateau Cardboard for dinner, with fish.
Wednesday, 18 August
Before we left Nerac this morning we moved against a low wall and scrubbed for over an hour to get the black oil marks off the hull. The rain must have been so heavy it bounced surface oil 30 cm up. But, nice and shiny, we entered the lock and pushed the button a second before seeing a boat following us! Great embarrassment, but once the cycle has started, you can’t stop it. We met them at the next lock and apologised profusely, and shared the locks for the rest of the day to Lavardac, where we moored about mid-day. We did what we could about the sun, and read until 4.30, after which Ian and Nick rode the bikes to look at the old mill at Barbiste. Then, just before 7.00pm we went down the Lavardac lock to Vianne. Another thunderstorm as we finished walking around town.
Thursday, 19 August
A lazy day. We visited three glass processors, washed the clothes and read books. We like this port – free with power and water and lovely surroundings. The port was full for the night.
Friday, 20 August
Nick’s last full day, and we moved down to Buzet, where we moored on the river mooring. It rained from time to time and we read. At 8 pm we headed to the Vigneron Restaurant again for dinner. As before, the main course was disappointing, but all others were magnificent. Highly recommended.
Saturday, 21 August
As soon as the lock opened, we went down the last 5-km to St Leger and Ian and Nick biked/walked to the railway station at Aiguillon. After lunch we returned to Buzet, handed in our lock key and headed Northwest. Tonight we are cooking a stew in a small port at Villeton. It is a glorious clear warm evening.
Sunday, 22 August
The stew was excellent, and accompanied by a group of drummers at a nearby cafe, African style who were excellent and who stopped at a reasonable hour! It was nice background to our first night alone on board for a week! We rang NZ and confirmed our opinion of NZ lack of rugby success. All else seems well. So about 11, washing machine in action it was off to Mas d’Argenais to buy some bread for lunch. It’s a lovely hilltop town and this weekend they were having a painting competition. There were painters everywhere.
Monday, 23 August
We didn’t win the contest (€1500 1st prize), but the water tank full. We left the free mooring about 11.00, only to hear shouts from ashore 200 metres on in the Crown Blue port from our NZ friends who were inspecting a Tasman class hire boat to buy. Looked OK too. So after a good reunion, off down a 0.6 metre lock and on through a scenic section of the canal, with lovely houses on the hillside beside the canal. The mooring here at Port de Sablons is free with water and electricity for one night, but no one has seen us yet! We biked to Marmande, 6 km away for supermarket shopping.
Tuesday, 24 August
It was a cool night and 19º this morning, but has turned into a nice morning. Tidy-up day, touching up some marks on the sides and around the new hatch, mending a puncture on Ian’s bike, painting the black surround of the gear lever. Then a brain wave. Can we send emails from the port office?. Yes we can, and did. So tomorrow the section of the journal to here will go. Ian biked to Marmande again for some hardware items, including a 2-metre ladder for a gangplank. And, oh yes; Lorna gave Ian a haircut, which looks OK too. An exciting reunion with a French couple on Oksen who we farewelled in Nerac when they left to drive home for a wedding. And another NZ couple from Wellington on a Locaboat.
Wednesday, 25 August
The email went and we moved on to Meilhan in the morning. It was a sunny day and a nice mooring. We shared laughter with the NZ’ers again and last night we climbed up the hill to the village and had a hilarious dinner and sing-song with them and farewell to David and Sue who go home tomorrow. They have decided to buy the Tasman boat. The party was at Robert LeDuc’s (a Frenchman of our age who has been with them and us since Castelnaudary sharing the fun)
Thursday, 26 August
We slept in till 10 am, a lovely sunny day, going to about 30ºC. We did a load of washing, had lunch and moved on an hour to the little port, off the canal at Fontet. It has an artificial beach with several children swimming and making sandcastles! €5 the night including water and elec. Later we walked around the village and tomorrow will bike the 3 km to La Reole.
We heard NZ was 1, 2 in the Olympic Triathlon! Great. We have been trying to contact friends here for a picnic on Sunday.
Friday, 27 August
We biked the 3-km to La Réole this morning. It is a lovely town. We walked up the hill into town with a 72-year-old mother of 10 etc and had a lot of laughs together. Got a new tube for Ian’s bike, stocked up at Casino in Centre Ville, and did a quick sight-see on bicycle, including the abbey and large chateau/castle. After a relaxing lunch and rest we continued to the end of the canal at Castet-en-Dorthe, where we moored under the trees opposite the port. The last lock is over 6m deep, in two stages.
Saturday, 28 August
Our friends in the region are out of town, so after a leisurely morning and lunch, we started our return journey. Until we met an other boat, the locks were against us, but easy to handle, so we reversed roles of helmsman and deck crew for three locks! After a shower as we travelled, we arrived for the night in Meilhan, where we were placed on the commercial mooring as there were no other moorings.
We had some difficulty understanding what was to happen on the riverside before a night of eating, dancing and general debauchery on the streets of the hilltop town. It turned out to be the arrivals of a fleet of about 24-26 rafts which had floated/paddled down from Marmande during the afternoon and which arrived an hour later than expected due to the low level of the Garonne. Some fabulous "floats" drifted in over an hour, with a lot of drenching of crews with buckets of water.
Sunday, 29 August
Ian biked into town for bread and veggies, and later we walked up the track to invite Robert Le Duc for dinner tonight, to buy meat and a look at the fabulous cliff-top view. We swapped a dozen or so books with the English couple on Itza Bitza, a lovely yacht in port and after dinner, watched the restart at 2 pm (well, between 1.50 and 2.20!) of the rafting event. It has been a pleasant overcast day. But although Lorna showed some enthusiasm, Ian couldn’t be persuaded to start scrubbing the decks to remove the pollen stains, which have started to annoy us. It requires scrubbing with Ajax and Ian isn’t keen to do it more than once! He wants to wait for the cause to pass. Robert arrived with an Equipe sports paper for us to see the final Olympic Results. NZ with 2 gold and 2 silver – if we had 100 times the population (as the US!) we would have cleaned up!
Monday, 30 August
This morning, we cleaned up on board, topped up the water and headed SE to Port de Sablons (Sand Port). It is also called La Grande Route, which translates into "the main road". The French sounds much more impressive. After lunch, Ian cycled the 9 km to a Bricomarché for plastic covered steel wire and clips and a 2-metre aluminium ladder, and checked out a furnishing shop as well. At the supermarket queue his parcel of wire and clips, also containing his much worn cap, activated the alarm and was inspected thoroughly for possible theft! Then he cycled home with the ladder over his shoulder.
The rest of the afternoon was spent removing the old ropes from some of the fenders and replacing it with the wire. It looks much tidier. We were also able to send off and receive email from the capitainerie, with no problems.
Schools are back in France today, and just as in NZ, the weather seems to have improved to stable fine!
Tuesday, 31 August
After breakfast, another trip by Ian to the supermarket and also the furniture shop to buy a Persian style rug for the floor. Lots of bonus points from the skipper. It looks lovely on the floor, but I can imagine it being rolled up on a rainy days! More email and the rest of the day on finishing the fenders. We also both finished our current books. I really enjoy Patricia Cornwell, and so does the other fellow!
This is a nice port with free water and electricity (supposedly for only day 1, then at only €2 a day), though apart from cycling to Marmande there isn’t a lot to do.
Wednesday, 1 September
Autumn. Maybe, but here in the south its probably starts in October. Anyway, it was a lovely day and we cruised 1½ hours for lunch and a walk in Mas d’Argenais. The Crown Blue base was advertising many older boats, but no Princes like ours – they have all gone. The nearest, several Tasmans, were €35,000, somewhat more than we paid for ours, though in NZ terms, with the stronger $NZ, about par.
Later in the afternoon we continued on to the free mooring with electricity at Villeton. No drum group tonight. But it was nice to have electricity in the morning to plug in the fan heater for a while! A couple of mornings have been about 16ºC, though it soon warms up to T-shirt and shorts temperatures again.
Thursday, 2 September
Didn’t need the heater! A lovely day and after only 2 locks we are back in Buzet. Ian has been up to the Buzet boozer for a new 10 litre box of Appellation Controlé Red. Great value for quality and it should last more than the weekend!!!
He is having trouble mending a puncture! On his bike, not the boat! The new tube is too small and stretches, causing a leak at a puncture repair. It’s flat again! Another day tomorrow!
A dog followed Erewhon from Damazan, 4 km along the towpath. It swam across the canal twice and greeted us like long lost friends when we stopped here. A neighbour suggested taking it to the café (the one which didn’t have Canal+ for rugby!). It was a good suggestion as she recognised it, and ½ an hour later its owner arrived to collect it.
The Garonne crossing is still closed for lack of water, but irrigation and thunderstorms have kept the farmers happy. It looks as if the harvest will be a good one.
Friday, 3 September
We shared a lock with some Swiss today, who gave us some raspberry about the Americas’ Cup and Team NZ. It was only 1½ hours to Serignac, where we moored free with electricity. Then after lunch we sat in the shade and read, chatting occasionally to some Germans working on their reversing gear box. Then a couple of Brits, Clare and Bryan Urry arrived on their boat Millwind. After discussion, we connected the facts that we had swapped emails in 2001 at Carcassonne, and in fact they were one of many who received the grandson general announcement! When Elliot was born he sent an email to his whole address book with the good news! We discussed stars and the lack of them in the European night sky, which lead to stargazing and lessons on finding the North Pole Star as well as watching a couple of satellites passing over. A pleasant evening. And, oh yes, a hotel boat pulled in about 8 pm as well, and the French and Belgians aboard came along and chatted as we ate our dinner.
Saturday, 4 September
We were still eating breakfast when a Locaboat hired for three weeks by 2 NZ couples pulled into the mooring. A great chat and swapping of news. About 11.00 am we left and later mounted the 4 locks and crossed the 500 metre aqueduct over the Garonne River into Agen.
It was in the mid 30’s and Ian walked on his own to download bank and credit card accounts and frequent flyer info. What a system! About 5 we continued on past rowers etc to the mooring at Bon Encontre where we filled two cans with diesel, stocked up at the Intermarché. It’s still over 30º at 8 pm.
Sunday, 5 September
A short run this morning to find bread. Running is not as easy as it was! At 10.00 we headed for Valance d’Argens, but instead, stopped a few km short by the nuclear power station at Goldfech. We sat under a tree on the bank and read till a late teatime, when we had salad and cold meat. The temperature was in the mid thirties, with a high humidity and it was early morning before the cabin was cool enough to sleep properly.
Monday, 6 September
It was threatening rain, which never came and the sun came out in the early afternoon. In the meantime, we continued on to Moissac, washing our bedding as we travelled. We were caught by a gust of wind and lost a fender as we were leaving a lock we had shared with 2 other hire boats! I have been promised access to the telephone to send emails tonight.
Tuesday, 7 September,
Well we did get access to email, but the next night the harbourmaster was less co-operative as she had had to sort out a mooring problem that put her in a non-agreeable mood. It is now Sunday 12 Sep and I am writing this next in hindsight.
Wednesday, 8 September
A hot day, we stayed in Moissac and late in the afternoon Jacqui and Martin arrived. We also had drinks with Aussies John and Jan on Arjo, who we had met a couple of months ago near Beziers. Great to see them and catch up. Ian put on a wet-suit and got into the canal to clean under the bike-tray. After that and a shower he was a lot cooler!
Thursday, 9 September
We moved to Castelsarrison today, stopping for 3 hours on the way to have lunch, do some supermarket shopping and buy a plank for the gangway at a bricomarché. This evening we went for a short walk along the pier, and were invited aboard hotel boat Rosa to have coffee and Armagnac with two American’s, the only English speakers aboard (Ken and Sue from Chicago).
Friday, 10 September, Saturday 11 September
We cruised (after the first lock with Sheila on Hove Two) on to Lacourt St Pierre on the side canal to Montauban, where we stayed until this morning, Sunday. We scrubbed and for the second time removed the yellow stains from the white polyester areas. Ian also stained and fixed the plank he had bought in Castelsarrison to the ladder from Marmande. So we now have a light, presentable gangplank.
Sunday, 12 September
A smooth trip to Lespinasse, 5 locks before Toulouse, ready to go into St Sauveur Port tomorrow.
Monday, 13 September
A lovely sunny day. We had an easy run into Port Sauveur, and spent the afternoon shopping and preparing for guests. Also Ian sent and received emails using the port fax connection. He was confirming summer school options.
Tuesday, 14 September
Sue and Allen arrived for lunch and this afternoon we explored old Toulouse. It is a lovely city, with its brick buildings, capitole square, parks and 10th century churches. We had some rain this evening and it was a cooler night.
Wednesday, 15 September
We’re away again. It was overcast and 16ºC to start with, but the sun came out at lunchtime, when we stopped below Montisgarde Lock. Then in the afternoon we went up the lock, and a couple of km to moor under the trees next to an Intermarché where we stocked the larder.
Thursday, 16 September
Another beautiful day as we climbed the last locks to the summit. Allan and Sue detoured on the bikes a couple of times and we all explored the system that feeds the Midi canal. We stopped at Le Segala for the night and invited Peter Symonds, who lives by the mooring, and whom we met in 2001, to join us for drinks and dinner. A fun night.
Friday, 17 September
The day dawned clear and crisp at 10º but soon warmed to over 30º in mid afternoon. We started down the locks and have moored at Castelnaudary at the same mooring where Ian fell on the quay in 2001. We have used an internet café to check the mail and bank, and bought a Cassoulet de Castelnaudary for dinner tonight.
Saturday, 18 September
The first section of this part of the canal is always slow with its series of 4, 3 and double locks. But it was especially so as today was the first day of the Friday hire-boat starters. We helped the three boats to develop a system at the first lock. It was a lovely day and we finally moored at about 6.30 pm. On the way we joined with a couple of boats with Auckland, NZ crews, and we also shared locks with a family from Florida, USA. All of us ended up at Villesquelande for the night and where shared a couple of drinks before we settled.
Sunday, !9 September
Another lovely day, and after the short trip into Carcassonne, we had lunch and walked up to the Citée (ie the huge medieval castle on the top of the hill). It was European Heritage day, when all historical sites are free. So we took the opportunity to tour the chateau, which was first started in the 5th C, and like the rest of the Citée, reconstructed in the 19th C. We finished our exploration with dinner in the square.
Monday, 20 September
We have had a lovely week with Sue and Allan, and were sorry to see them off on the train at 7.45 am! Then we continued on to Marseillette where we watched the tractors carrying the grapes to the Co-op. We have stocked up at an Intermarché just out of Carcassonne. The temperature was a lovely mid 20’s.
Tuesday, 21 September
We enjoyed sleeping in after yesterday’s early rising, bought bread and left at 10 am. It has been a blustery day. Not sure if it’s a Tramontane or Mistral or what, but a bit like a nor’wester. (later comment - the Mistral comes down the Rhone and the Tramontane up the Garonne and down the Aude (ie the Midi Canal)) It was a series of triple, then double locks, and the three hire boats in front of us slowed us down, so we were overtaken by a hotel boat, so we had to let it past. The strong crosswind didn’t help easy locking, and we took 7 ½ hours to do what we had estimated to take 5 ½. But we are comfortably moored in Homps, with free mooring and electricity and water, waiting for John and Jocelyn to arrive for an overnight stay tomorrow.
Wednesday, 22 September
The wind continues. Ian was able to send emails from the Capitainerie this morning, and John and Jocelyn arrived, loaded with goodies just in time for lunch. Then we continued on with them for 7 km, down two doubles and one single lock. In the strong cross-wind it was good to have the extra hands. We also had to help one of the hire boats accompanying us when it had trouble mooring, clambering from one boat to the other! We moored on the canal-side at Agen Minervois about 6.30, when J & J ran back the 7-km to get their car. When they returned, we enjoyed a lovely meal.
Thursday, 23 September
J & J left after breakfast, heading for Barcelona. We set out in the strong wind towards Narbonne. Ian did a couple of loads of washing, but had difficulty hanging it to dry in the gale! We stopped for a couple of hours at Port Minervois, just before the Narbonne Junction in a sheltered spot, where the clothes dried, and we relaxed and lunched. Refreshed, we ran down the 7-lock straight into Salléles, with a moderate tail wind making mooring to operate the controls to the automatic system somewhat difficult. We tied up about 5pm. This wind has lasted 5 days so far! Its still warm though, above 22ºC.
Friday, 24 September
The wind still blew strongly as we continued across the Aude River and on to Narbonne, this lovely old Roman town from before Christ! As we passed the last lock before town a VNF woman checked our vignette to see if we had paid our annual licence fee! We had! This was the first time we had been asked to show it in France.
We passed under the bridge with shops into the port about 1pm. Later, as tea was cooking, we let go, and moved further out of the city centre, to get away from noisy drums and drinking unemployed on the canal-side. Ross and Alison rang us this morning from Gordes to confirm they were on time to get here tomorrow for their week with us. We had a shower of rain, which we hoped might signal the end of the winds, but later they returned, though calmer.
Saturday, 25 September
Again the wind. Ross and Alison arrived in time for lunch, and we used their car to stock up at Intermarché before they returned it. Then we arranged their rail tickets for next week and checked email before inspecting the hugely tall, but uncompleted cathedral. This town has two other churches as big!
Sunday, 26 September
In the morning we looked through the street market and climbed to the top of the donjon (= a keep or dungeon), a high tower overlooking the city, built in the 13th C. But the wind still blew strongly and we decided not to set out for Salléles. Instead we will leave tomorrow and go on to Le Somail.
Monday, 27 September
The wind was a little easier to start with and we left about 10.30. The wind made stopping for preparing the locks a bit harder, and in the afternoon it was stronger, and since we were sharing locks, somewhat tiring. We had lunch below the deep lock at Salléles, where Lorna and Alison got fresh groceries, and later, turned up the Midi when we reached it to moor at Le Somail, one of the nicest stops on the canal.
Tuesday, 28 September
Hooray, the wind has gone after 9 days of Marin/Tramontane/Mistral! A lovely day and we returned back down the Midi enjoying the high 20’s temperature, catching up with our laundry. We explored Capestang, rescued a hire boat, which had been dragged from its pegs by a fast passing group of boats (chartered to unemployed German youths) and enjoyed a BBQ saucisse.
Wednesday, 29 September
Another lovely day and we explored l’Oppidum, the pre-Christian, Roman/French hilltop town. Because we spent time and hired the English language headphone set, we get more out of this each visit. The history was fascinating. Later, we continued to the top of the Fonserenne flight of 6 locks, ready for 9.00 the next morning.
Thursday, 30 September
A tranquil descent of the Fonserenne flight, a smooth crossing of the aqueduct and we moored about 10.00am in Beziers. R & A explored Beziers, I & L supermarketed, and we all enjoyed a restful day in the sun.
We have been amazed at the number of New Zealanders and to a lesser extent Aussies and
South Africans we have seen this month. Today when we came down the lock into Beziers,
with 6 out of a dozen of the boats were NZ crewed! I guess it is the timing with school holidays,
and the lower off/season prices.
Friday, 1 October, 2004
It was a quiet cruise down 4 locks to Agde. We had trouble finding space in the port here, and passed through the lock to moor under the trees the shade from which is so welcome in summer. We inspected the old town – the painted windows on the blank stone walls are even more spectacular- and returned to a riverside restaurant for dinner.
Saturday, 2 October
Ross and Alison left after breakfast on the train and we headed out on to the étang shortly after. It was a calm day, full sun and the temperature close to 30º. Lovely. We took the opportunity to experiment, using the GEKO to record the relationship between RPM and KPH. It is noticeably higher in deeper water, though the effect of the wind was also noticeable. We arrived at Frontignon for a late lunch and moored behind Sheila on Hove Two. We shared a glass of rosé. Today is Joanne’s birthday, so we rang her and got her at Michael and Sorella’s. All’s well in London.
Sunday, 3 October
We moved through the bridge at 9 am and moored again. We want the salt water to do its best on our fresh water garden, just below the waterline.
Monday, 4 October
While the salt water does its thing, Ian touched up the paintwork on the hull; we stocked the larder and read a few pages. The weather to the north was black, but here it was 30º again. We have great fun watching the boats preparing positions to pass under the lifting bridge, especially at 1.30.
Tuesday, 5 October
The weather wasn’t great and we decided to move on to Aigues Mortes. We stopped for lunch by the swinging bridge at Maguelonne, and were about to push off when a VNF employee in a car told us to remain moored as a huge boat was approaching. And huge it was, for the canals. Moored to its stern was a CBL boat with Vaughan Ashby from St Gilles CBL on the ship eating and wife on the hire boat.
Further on we towed a hire boat off the shallow canal side, held there by the cross-wind, and eventually we arrived at the old lock north of Aigues Mortes. We were fortunate to get one end of it, mooring with the protection from passing boats by the end structure.
Wednesday and Thursday 6 & 7 October
We are still moored in the lock at Aigues Mortes and have spent our time on filling with diesel at 93 eurocents a litre, cleaning up, reading and starting on the proper installation of our windshield wipers. The small solar charger appears to be keeping up with our electricity use (only lights and water pump).
The weather has been overcast, but somewhat warmer than above Beziers (18 – 26ºC). We may move on tomorrow, but then again we may stay close to the supermarket and other shops till the end of the week. It depends on when we can get a mechanic to check the engine after a season’s use.
Friday and Saturday 8 & 9 October
The weather remains OK and Ian has worked on rewiring and repairing the electric wipers. He has also tidied up the 230V system. We made contact with Gay and Annie from Ireland who we met here 3 years ago. They are selling their launch and have bought a tajlk, which is in Ireland and which they plan to bring down here..
Sunday, 10 October
A lovely day and we moved to St Gilles, where we moored just north of the port.
Monday, 11 October
Roget and Paul checked out the cause of some delay in starting the motor. The engine wiring proved OK, but there appears to be a poor connection in the safety cut-out box, which we will look at in Beaucaire. Some drizzle let us check the wipers. Then we moved on to Bellegarde. Moored opposite us was an NZ yacht, Rehara II, and their owners Jane Dubbelt and Peter Walker from New Plymouth who came over for drinks and a snack dinner. A great evening.
Tuesday, 12 October
We are back in Beaucaire, moored temporarily on the North wall. There was some confusion re our payment for the year, but receipts were found both on the boat and in the office, so we relaxed again! But surprise! The water we filled with at Bellegarde this morning smells of chlorine, so we are drinking our bottled water.
Wednesday, 13 October
Heavy thunder before we got up, and still in bed when Bill and Marjorie rang! Then a nice sunny day and we started on preparations to leave. The electric supply to the fridge works again. Ian opened the battery bank to top up the water and shut it again. Four batteries will take some time and if he can find a filling bottle it will be easier! In the meantime Ian ordered new fuel and oil filters from the agent, from Ted Johnson to be sent Poste Restante by Saturday.
Thursday, 14 October
More thunder and rain, then the sun again. When it is out, it is quite mild. But the good news seems to be that we are practically waterproof! Ian had his hair cut by a Moroccan barber and Lorna shopped the market for food.
Friday, 15 October
We did two loads of washing and filled the batteries with distilled water. We explored the old castle grounds this afternoon and returned through the old town, much of which is 14th C.
Saturday, 16 October
The day started sunny but has deteriorated to drizzle this afternoon. We walked/cycled over the bridge to Tarascon Super-U and bought a new vacuum cleaner for €21. It replaces the B&D portable that stopped charging early this year. Liz, a Hungarian born Canadian came for coffee this afternoon. In the meantime Ian also wired an adapter cord for the shore to ship power supply, so we are now using the convenient cable on a reel we bought last week.
Mon
Cleaned up negative battery cables
Tue
Overcast, warm and fine so did 2 loads of washing, cycled to Mr Bricomarché for bits and pieces. Now both power cables are interchangeable.
Wed
Walked around the town, found the brocante (rubbish, second-hand, antique, depending on your view) fair.
On 25 Oct
The days merge! Beaucaire is getting into over wintering mode, and on Sunday there was a barbeque behind the capitainerie. A great social occasion! Not much Sauvignon Blanc left in the cask! It is good to meet all who are staying. We now have faces to the names we hear on theVHF net.
Every morning except Sunday a rostered controller runs a 10-minute session on Channel 77 with intro, weather, local news, activities, offers of car rides etc. The channel is used a bit like a phone. Contact is established on 77 with everyone listening all day (and night too!) and some privacy is obtained by switching to channel 72 for more private discussion (though anyone else can also monitor this if they so desire)!
Some of us went swimming in the local pool last Friday, others are going go-carting. We tried to find a couple of Bridge players and have only got 1!
The supermarkets are some distance away, so we buy most of our food at the very good markets here on Thursdays and Sundays.
We have touched up painting, but are leaving the deck for next year. The boat is covered in polythene, but not finally fixed, as we may have to shift the boat to another mooring.
29-31 October 2004
We took a bus to Avignon, then to Carpentra, where we stayed with friends who live there. They operate a small, but magnificent chocolate factory/shop. We enjoyed exploring the old town, originally built by the Romans and still enclosed by medieval walls. We caught a train back to Tarascon and walked back across the bridge, noting that the water level was down again after rising quite high on Friday.
6 November 2004
Now at Michael’s
The boat is secure, though at the last minute we found the automatic bilge pump wasn’t working. But an enquiry on channel 77 and a suggestion of a contact resulted in a new pump at mid-day the following day.
We drove to Paris via the A75 and N20. Ie via Millau where we saw the new viaduct ready
to open (the world’s longest!), a night’s stay at Rion, near Clermont Ferand
where we had a fantastic 5 course meal, Flavours of Autumn, including a course mainly of
different mushrooms.
It’s cold in Paris and London, but Elliot is a lovely 8 months.
Above is a photo taken from the cabin on the London Eye, which we
recommend to London visitors.
On the right is a photo of Ian in Westminster Abbey looking down on the tomb of an ancestor George Graham, clockmaker.
18 November 2004
Home again. Our tenants left a lovely clean house, and we have unpacked all our personal gear. It is, as usual a joy to be home. We had a good flight, straight through via Bangkok and Sydney in 25 hours, but we were in bed by 7.00 pm. And up again after 6 am, shifting one hour later each day.
Ian has started preparing for the Summer School courses he will be presenting in December/January . And we are already planning and booking for 2005, and our next expedition. We plan 11 days on a Russian cruise boat, travelling from St Petersburg to Moscow, with 2 days in each, before returning to France about 22 July. Then we plan to go up the Rhone to St Jean de Losne, which we will make a base for circular cruises.