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Karakoram
In Turkish
language Karakoram means "black" this excellent and impressive set of
dark brown and black variety of rocks in very rare mountain range. It
houses the largest collection of very high pinnacles and mountains in
the world stretched for 400 kms. This concentration has 250 kms depth.
It is surrounded by
Shyok River in the
East and Karamber, Ishkuman and
Gilgit
Rivers
in the the West. Then it is surrounded by the
Shaksgan
River
in the North East and by Shyok and the
Indus
Rivers
in the South West. Karakoram has special significance for its fractujred
rocks, guarding vertical characteristics and very sharp angled slopes
offersing great challenge to mountaineers and adventure lovers. Four
summits above 8000 meters i.e., K-2, Gasherbrum I and II as well as
Broad Peak exist in Karakoram in an area of only 20 kms encircling the
re;puted glacial junction - Concordia. Boltoro, Soltoro, Lupghar,
Khunjerab, Panmah, Aghil,
Masherbrum,
Saser, Hispar, Siachin, Rino, Batura, Raka;poshi/Bagrot and Haramosh are
the sub-regions of the Karakoram. This region has variable snow line
ranging between 4200 to 4500 meters during the summer season. The
temperatures in the area are extremely varied with large difference
btetween lowest and highest mercury in a day. There is no penetration of
Monsoons in this area. From May till end of September, each year is the
most viable season to go for climbing in Karakoram. However climbing
during winter kis possible. Apart from towering mountains, Karakoram
house largest glaciers beyond the polar regions.
History
Travellers used
to be attracted by the elegance and massif of the Karakoram and
Hindukush. The Chinese are known to be the pioneers among travellers on
the renowned Silk Route passing through these beautiful ranges. They
recorded their experience of dark mountains, rope bridges and huge
glciers. Mr. Fattien while travelling from Sinkiang to the South Asian
Sub-continent in 390 AD croissed the Karakoram via Mintika Pass (4710
m). Hinen Isang did track his way via Karakoram to this region in 603
AD. Marco Polo's travel from Venice to Kublai Khan's Court in 13th
Century left it's effects like Marco Polo sheep. Then Ibne Batuta of
Tangiers made a journey to this place in 14th century. Afterwards
several European dignataries paid visits to Karakoram seekking
adventure, exploration, scientific researches and mountaineering in the
late nineteenth and early twentieth century. Yet in the begining of
19th century, men of exploration like Mr. J. Henderson and Mr. G.T.
Vinge came to Skardu in 1834 and 1836. Hence mountain climbing and
trekking in Karakoram commenced in 1892 because Martin Conway during his
survey of the Upper Indu, tried to climb summits in the area including
Rakaposhi. He was back to the region in 1902 and tried to scale K-2. The
grand Duke of
Abruzzi
from Italy headed his large expedition to go for climbing and have a
thorough survey of the Upper Boltoro region in 1909. That showed the
way to a series of expeditions eager to do exploration and
mountaineering in Karakoram region. By 1947, some European mountaineers
and explorers consisting of Britishers, Italians and American had paid
visits to the region. In post independent days in 1947, number of
expeditions to this area recorded an increase. In 1953 a US expedition
took the initiative of an attempt on K-2 but remained unsuccessful.
Anyway an Italian expedition led by Prof. Ardito Desio successfully went
for the first ascent of the extremely fierce mountain - K-2. Mr. Lino
Lecedelli and Archille companions were the pioneers to get to the K-2
peak, scaling via
Abruzzi
ridge. The area was opened for genereal mountaineering and trekking in
1974 and since then a sufficient number of expeditions come to Karakoram
every year. A Pak-Japan joint expedition took the first Japanese
mountaineer alongwith first Pakistani mountaineer Mr. Ashraf Aman to the
K-2 peak in 1977. They successfully scaled the K-2. this mountain has
since been scaled by manhy climbers via all of its sides and slopes. Mr.
Nazir Sabir accompanhying another Pak-Japan expedition in 1981
successfully swent for the first ascent of the most difficult west ridge
of K-2. Then in 1995, Mr. Rajab had the honor to become first :Pakistani
pair to put their feet on top of the K-2 in 1995. To date so many
mountaineers hailing from various countries have scaled K-2. They are
among world famojus and prominent mojuntaineers such as Reinhold
Messener etc. Number of expeditions approaching Karakoram every year
average to 55. A sufficient number of foreign as well as pakistani
mojuntaineers have so far scaled other high peaks of Karakoram rang,
still there are so many other towering peaks yet remain unscaled looking
for a challenge from the daring ones.
Hindukush
The Hindukush
stand high in the west of Pamirs. Considerably it stretches from Wakhjir
pass at the conjunction of pamirs and Karakoram to Khawak pass in the
north of Kabul. First part of it goes beyond Wakhjir pass up to Dorah
pass (320 kms long) and separates Hunza from Wakhan. Its second is
satuated on the other side of Dorah pass in Afghanistan. The third
region with 240 kms length is located in Pakistan stretching into swat
and Kohistan. Eastward, the Indus River separates it from Karakoram.
Thich Mir (7492m), Darban Zom (7219m) and Shingeik Zom are the other
peaks of the area. There are few glaciers in the range but these less
significant. Because of geographic qualities this area has accessibility
to Afghanistan and in 1830 it was first discovered by Europeans and then
by the survey teams from Britain. British survey teams had attempted to
climb Tirchmir and other summits in the area dating back in 1927.
However in 1950 a Norwegian expedition comprising of nationals of
different countries along with Pakistanis have scaled it. Other summits
of the area were scaled afterwards i.e., in the sixties and seventies.
Though almost all the peaks in the above 7000m in the Hindukush have
already been scaled, still the goes on to attract mountaineers and those
having love for nature. Lately other activities related to adventure
tourism such as trekking and jeep safaris have shown considerable rise
in the area.
Western Himalayas
The western
Himalayas is located between valley of Kashmir in the east to Indus
River in the north and west and Nanga Parbat massif is dominating it.
Highest peak of this chain stands at 8125m. the range includes Kashmir,
Kaghan, Kohistan, Deosai and Chitral regions. Deosai plains existing at
an altitude of about 4500m also dominate this range. These plains are
full of flowers blossoming in the summer months, offering very charming
scenery. The monsoon also blesses the area and summer is the climbing
season. Recently to some extent winter climbing has also commenced.
Nanga Parbat set of
peaks has various routes but Rupal (eastern face), Riakot/Fairy Meadows
side (north western face), Diamer face(the western side) and the lengthy
western Mazeno ridge are famous base camps. Europeans had explored it in
late 19th century. Nanga Parbat region was first visited by
the Schlagintweet brothers of Germany in 1854. Mr. A.F.Mummery led a
British expedition which tried hard to pave the way on the southern and
western slopes in 1985. A joint German and us expedition did try to get
on Nanga Parbat in 1932. Afterwards German expeditions attempted it in
1937 and 1939 with heavy casualties, that why it is often called a
German mount. However in 1953, a joint Austrian German expedition headed
by Mr. Herlingkoffer successfully scaled this killer mountain. Mr.
Hermann Buhl unprecedently making a solo attempt, became successful to
get on the peak in 40 hours. Since then the summit has been scaled from
all sides by several climbers like Mr. Reinhold Messener. He has climbed
it on few occasions, Sher khan, Rajab shah, Mohammad-ullah and Att ul
Haq were the first Pakistanis to climb Nanga Parbat in 1989. |