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DELHI, MANALI AND BEYOND

An errant Knight's virgin sojourn into the Himalayas

Arrival in Delhi; 9:25 pm. Twenty minutes later, the only person between me and 11.5 million Indians, who I'm certain are all out to get me, is a taxi driver behind the wheel of a multiple bruised 1957 Morris Minor who doesn't want to take me where I want to go. I'm on my way to Karlo Castle in the Main Bazaar, recommended by my friend, Domi, who had covered this exact situation in an email I received 2 days before arriving at Indira Ghandi International Airport ("If the driver says he knows of a better place," emphasized Domi, "tell him you want to go to YOUR destination...and be firm!"). However, the driver, Genghis Con I believe his name was, convinced me that the area we were heading for was too dangerous; moreover, he wasn't sure where the hotel I wanted to go to was...exactly. He said he might be able to get me close, but "close" (now approaching 10:30 at night) didn't comfort me as I conjured images of groping down a dimly lit alley with hyper charged backpack and overstuffed daypack being stalked by at least half the population of Delhi, who no doubt knew the exact time of my arrival and were waiting for me, probably stacked one on top the other, somewhere deep in the shadows of the Main Bazaar. So I relented and let Genghis take me to a "safe" hotel which was only 5 times more expensive than the 250 rupies quoted by the guy (who, as far as I know, is still awaiting my arrival) at Karlo Castle. So I wound up at the Megha Sheraton (a thinly disguised reference to the US version, of which it bears absolutely no resemblance) which came equipped with its own travel agent, Suni, who appeared like David Copperfield at the reception desk only moments after my arrival. This guy could talk a leopard out of his American Express card so didn't have any trouble selling me his hotel/Delhi highlights tour package. I did need to occupy myself the following day until the Himachel Tours bus left at 7 pm for Manali and quite frankly, up until Suni came into my life, the only thing that had occurred to me to do in Delhi was escape.

While visiting India's version of l'Arc de Triomphe (India Gate), a kid and his sidekick arrived post haste carrying 2 wicker baskets. They quickly put them on the ground a few feet from me and the charmer began coaxing an obviously fatigued and seriouly disinterested cobra into the Dracula pose. Didn't take me long to comprehend that this impromptu engagement was solely for my benefit. Roll video. Cut. Thirty seconds was all I was allowed before the lid was banged down brusquely on the cobra's head. Then, before I could say, "Is that thing real?", the boa was around my neck and snakeman 2 was motioning me to pass the digital camera to my driver/guide, Sundukar, so he could capture the memorable event.

For me, the most impressive sight in Delhi was Jantar Mantar. This masonic marvel is a sanguine tribute to purposeful architecture. Completed in 1724 by astronomer, mathematician, king, Sawai Jai Singh II, it's not only an astronomical observatory, but, as explained to me by a guide at the site, can also be used as an astrological forecasting tool. In fact, one of its primary purposes was to calculate the most favorable times for the king to travel and make important decisions.

If you want to see some professional photos which really show off the site, go to Henley Graphics, and for more of the story behind Jantar Mantar, go here. What makes this accomplishment even more remarkable is that Jai Singh was only eleven years old when he ascended the throne in 1700. When most kids his age are just beginning to break in their new Game Boy, Jai Singh set about creating five of these observatories, only two of which have been restored; the one here at Connaught Place, and another, even more impressive, in Jaipur.
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