Filo’s BALI travel FORUM SUMMARY.

(Mainly from travellers’ postings on http://www.balitravelforum.com/ added to our own experiences.)

Compiled to 18 September 2004.

I am often asked, “Is Bali safe?”  This morning (Nov 2002) I was asked again and it made me pause to think again.

In the past I have always answered, “Bali is probably safer than your own home town.”

Following the events of October 12 I have given this question a lot more thought, particularly as I look forward to re-visiting Bali as soon as possible myself. I have listened closely to all of the advice, both spoken and written, and conclude that there is not much of my advice to change. I believe that terrorists are primarily seeking maximum worldwide publicity and impact and this would not be achieved by simply repeating what they have done before – particularly against Indonesian targets that now, more than ever, must be considered ‘easy meat’, although the security precautions being undertaken, with more promised might make them much tougher meat.

My answer to this mornings E-mail was that Bali is probably as safe as your own hometown, because the whole world, including your hometown, would seem to be a potential target.

Having said that, if you decide to visit, remember that not all of the people you will meet in Bali are Balinese. Amongst them may still be extremists (behavioural extremists as well as those who would rather be thought of as religious extremists) who are prepared to target westerners. Be alert and be cautious, but don’t be paranoid and ruin what should be an enjoyable holiday. If you don’t feel that you can do this then perhaps you should not go.

We returned in April ’03, staying in the southern tourist areas and travelling east to Candi Dasa and to the central north. Nowhere did we take special precautions and nowhere did we feel at all threatened. Again, in March-April 2004, we went to Legian, Kuta, Tuban, Seminyak, Sukawati, Ubud, Pacung, Singaraja, Lovina, Sererit and Gilimanuk. Nowhere did we find anything other than the famed friendly warmth of the Balinese people.

If you have concerns, or your family has concerns, you and they might feel better if you register your travel plans with the Australian Dept of Foreign Affairs and Trade, (DFAT), on https://www.orao.dfat.gov.au/orao/weborao.nsf/homepage?Openpage . It will take about 5 minutes for each person. Have your passport handy to refer to.

You might also like to check the latest travel information for your destination at www.smarttraveller.gov.au.

If you find yourself needing a new passport (remember it must have at least 6 months to go before expiry, no matter if you’re only staying for a long weekend) then you can fill in all the information required on line. Go to www.passports.gov.au , that’s if you’re in Australia of course but other countries might have a similar web site that will save you a visit to (and a wait) to your local government offices.

REMEMBER: There is now a ‘Visa On Arrival’ fee for most foreign travellers – US$10 for a maximum of 3 days and US$25 for a stay of up to 30 days. This visa fee must be paid on arrival at your first Indonesian airport and applies to all travellers, even children who may not have needed their own seat on the aircraft. I recommend that you get the US dollars required before you leave home. This fee is in addition to the Indonesian Departure Tax of Rp100,000 which must be paid at the airport when you depart and in the local currency, Rupiah.

 

 

This information is compiled by  filo(no-spam-please)@picknowl.com.au.  Please send feedback, corrections, comments or additional information to this E-mail address, with the (no-spam-please) part taken out. It will be appreciated.

If you would like more information, advice, stories and photographs about Bali then start at our Home Page by clicking the link in blue type below, then select from the contents list which will be on the right hand side of the opening page.

http://geocities.com/filo_1au/index.html.

If you would like to read the story of our 2003 holiday which included Seminyak, Candi Dasa, Amed (briefly), Pacung and Bedugul, Tuban, Sanur and the Cultural Park on the slopes of the Bukit Peninsula, with photos and the story of our missed flight home then go to www.geocities.com/balifilo/ .

 

CONTENTS. (Parts 1 & 2,)

1 - General Information. –

 

1.CONTACTS AND INFORMATION – including –

1.        Airport porter rates – Airport Taxis – Airport Bag Storage – Airline contacts - Astronomy – Art – Allergies -

2.       Bali Belly  - Bargaining – Books – Book shops - For Blondes –

3.       Camera Repairs – Cane Mites - Charities – Children – Computer Software – CD and DVD virus - Consulates (you can perhaps feel more secure if you register your travel plans at this link https://www.orao.dfat.gov.au/orao/weborao.nsf/homepage?Openpage ) -

4.       Diseases & Injections – Doctors & Dentists etc. – Dogs – Donated gifts & goods – Drug risks in Bali -

5.       Emergency numbers – Be a blood donor in Bali. – Electrical supply and connection adaptors. -

6.       Furniture – Freight home - Golf – Gifts – Delicacies – Glasses – Fishing -

7.       Health protection – Sex risks/HIV/AIDS - See also Cane Mites and allergies, above,, and Jellyfish stings, below. – Hygiene – a Bali First-Aid kit – Bali Healers -

8.       Internet etc – see ‘Internet & mobile phones’, number 10, below.

9.       Jellyfish stings – Jewellery and jewellery repairs -

10.     Lawyer –

11.      Maps - Mosquitos –

12.     Orphanages and Charities; see also ‘Gifts’ in ‘Remember, Cultural things, below., -

13.     Photography/cameras – Digital camera downloads – Hire laptops - Digital camera memorry virus. - Printing – Paper for gifts – Pottery – Prohibited imports from Bali – Pearls – Pets -

14.     Self transport – Sex – Sunscreen – Shoes – Spectacles and contacts – Shipping. – Swimming safety. – Surfing -

15.     Tattoos, permanent & temporary – Toilets –

16.     VCDs, DVDs, MP3s, CDs etc. – DVD virus alert -

17.     Travel Agents – Travel Insurance; Don’t leave home without it! – Traditional healers; ‘Balians’ -

18.     Vegetarian food.

19.     Weddings. World Heritage Sites – Wine -

2.MONEY. - Including –

1.           Rupiah coins, notes and ‘candy change’ –

2.          Money Changing - Safe money changing – As-new notes only – Don’t change at home – Airport changing –

3.          Tipping – an account to help friends in Bali -

4.          Money Scams - and a crook moneychangers list –

5.          Passport security – Bag snatchers – Credit card security – Cash to get home – Check in for Garuda to secure your seat. -

6.          Keep a perspective when bargaining – School fees and donations to charities.

3.REMEMBER – Cultural things including; 

1.      Balinese Castes and Names, - Gifts, - Wrapping papers and stationery - Do’s and Don’ts - Personal Dress, - Stay in control, remain calm! – Flags and decorated fronds - Street offerings near shops and homes- Cremations.

2.     Orphanages, (Opens in a separate web page). See also ‘CHARITIES’ in the ‘CONTACTS AND INFORMATION’, above.

3.     Art, in all forms, is a large part of Balinese life.

4.     World Heritage sites.

5.     Nyepi Day (the day of silence) and Ogoh-ogoh – Odalan and ‘Full Moon’ parties. -

4.SAYING – Everyday Language prompts that will make you doubly welcome in Bali.

5.SHOPPING -  Including –

1.      Supermarkets – Opening hours – Children’s food – Children’s clothes – Orchids – Clothing size conversion tables -

2.     Fashion hand bags – Fashion for pets -

3.     Gold & Jewelery – Wood ware, pests and Customs -

4.     Software (computer, games, CDs, VCRs etc) –

5.     Buttons, Sequins & Beads – Craft supplies - Temple umbrellas and flags (‘Umble umbles’) -

6.     Some prices (2000 to 2002) –

7.     Spectacles –

8.     Flea Market - Fishing stores -

6. EATING – Enjoyably and with safety. – Including -

1.      Personal hygiene – Who’s Cooking Tonight? – Vegetarian – Vegemite -

2.     Wine, both local and imported and purchasing it in Bali – Tax, service charges and commissions –

3.     The Bali Travel Forum and other locally assembled restaurant guides– Steak – Bread -

4.     Vegetarian. One of the notable vegetarian restaurants is ‘Aromas’, in Kuta.

5.     Local fruits are highly recommended – Balinese names for foods – Desserts – Kaki Lima (food carts) –

6.     Delicacies -

7.     Donations to Gloria’s Crisis Care Centre. See also ‘Charities’.

7. DRINKING – It’s a delight when it’s done for pleasure, but in the tropics it must also be done for your safety.

1.      Sammi and Sussi’s Forum “Bar” at Legian Beach.

2.     Water, cool drinks, straws and ice –

3.     Beers -

4.     Taking alcohol into Bali –

5.     Local wines and outlets.

8. VISITING – Some recommended ‘hot spots’.

9. THINGS TO DO - Some common some exotic. Including River Rafting – read a local Newspaper - Helicopter fligghts – see a Movie – take an ocean cruise by day or night – play at WaterBom Park (now known as ‘Water Park’) – go to the dances at Batubulan. Try the One of the best collection of birds anywhere. Over 1500 birds covering over 250 species at Taman Burung near Ubud. 40 min by taxi from Kuta. Look at www.alphalink.com.au/~grum/bali/birdpark/ .
If you’re on the western side of the island, that is Jimbaran, Tuban, Kuta, Legian, Seminyak, Tanah Lot and all the way around to the Java ferry terminal at Gillimanuk, even in Singaraja and Lovina, you’ll see those fabulous, tropical, romantic sunsets of glowing colours across the sea. No doubt you’ll have a drink or two in the best of company (yourself at least) and hope to see the iridescent green cap on top of the sun as the last of it disappears below the horizon. If you’re very lucky however, and you’re staying on the eastern side (Nusa Dua, Benoa, Sanur, Candi Dasa, Amed), you’ll be ideally situated to see the even more romantic and spectacular sunrise. Because you have to get up before dawn, of course, these are nowhere near as popular or as commonly appreciated as the sunsets but, in the company of spouse, friend, lover, or all three, and a bottle of cool champagne, you will always cherish the memories as you watch Bali come to life.
Other activities, such as the popular snorkelling or diving, are in the District sections. Snorkelling gear can be hired for Rp20,000 per day per person, or for much more if you’re not good at bargaining.
If you’ve ever despaired at the amount of waste plastic flooding Bali and would like to help in an occasional cleanup look at the web site of the Environmental Education Centre, Bali. (P P L H). www.pplhbali.or.id.
Play golf – if you’ve a healthy bank balance. There are some magnificent courses along the coast and in the mountains but the fees are high. Contact John Clarke at Bali Discount Golf (www.golfbali.com) for the best advice and prices.
If you’re really crazy you can hire a motor bike, even large 1200cc ones (and up to a Harley if you own one of these back home). You’ll need an international licence. PT Ogi Motor, Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai 27X Tuban ph 766 101 or 766 102.
Kites are a constant feature of the Bali skies. There is a huge international festival of kites around July each year. Kids (big and small) will be dumbfounded at the sight.
Visit the new (ish) Monument to the Balinese People’s Struggle. It sounds a bit communistic but it’s really a well presented history of Bali from 1945 to independence. In the Niti Mandala Park, Renon District, Denpasar.
Take Surfing lessons. Blue Ocean Surf School on Legian Beach by Jayakarta Hotel/Jl Double 6/ Benny’s Restaurant etc. About 10 am. E-mail Slim at baliwaves.com. He will give you current info. Check out www.schoolofsurf.com/locations.html . An alternative might be Shane Horan’s School of Surfing on the beach near Benny’s Café,Legian. Your first lesson will be until you can stand up – no matter how long it takes. Very well supervised.
WARNING: Watch the rips along Kuta-Legian-Sebinyak beaches. Tourists regularly drown here.
Surfers new to the island should check www.baliwaves.com for locations, conditions and recent reports. Other sites include www.surftheearth.com.au. Which has accommodation tips as well.
If you’re into Adventure Trekking in pristine Jungles, get in touch with Bali Bluey at www.wonderfulbali.com/kutilang/albums/index.htm .
Go to Java, but be a little cautious. Jogya is close and has a more tolerant reputation than larger centres. See the old palace, the water garden, art galleries that will take your mind back through centuries. There are fascinating temples at Prambanan and Borobudur – fascinating even if you think that you’re ‘all templed out’. There are very ancient ruins steeped in history on the plateau of Dieng. Pantris beach is the blueprint for all other tropical beaches. See Mount Merapi. Appreciate the friendliness of the country peoples, the honesty of the traders and the peaceful, quieter, more relaxing atmosphere. There is white-water rafting on the Citarik River and more exotic starts such as off-road adventuring, rafting, jungle trekking, even paintball wars if you’re that way inclined.
Bike tours, mainly downhill thak goodness, are arranged by the Ayung River Rafting Company. There are three tours to choose from beginning at either the Kintamani volcano rim, from Batuaru mountain or from Sangeh village through the monkey forest.
Bali Budaya Tours also has a cycling option. Contact them at [email protected].
Sobek, the well known Tour group can be contacted at www.sobekbali.com or [email protected].
There are a Reptile and Bird Parks side by side in Singapadu, a village near Batubulan. Joint entry tickets are cheaper than two singles. The main feedings are early in the morning and a secondary one at 11 am.

 

10. INTERNET / MOBILE PHONES.

11. TOILETS, LOOS AND DUNNIES ! – A ‘convenient’ list for your comfort and to avoid additional distress.

12. DRIVERS. - Including –

1.      Taxis - public and hire transportt – Fares – Hire – Bemos and Shuttle Bus –

2.     Tourists driving – Hiring motor bikes -

3.     Recommended drivers and the general costs of getting around.

4.     Travel times and distances between common destinations

 

13. Accommodation – General information lists with some comments if available.
For recent reviews of hotels, restaurants, shops etc, with pictures to make informed choices try Mic’s Bali – http://balimic.tripod.com .

14. Recommended places but of unknown location.

 

 

2 - SPECIFIC DISTRICT INFORMATION.

These entries include information, covering Shopping, Eating, Drinking, Visiting, Doing, Drivers, People and Accommodation (both standard and cheap) for each district.

Generally the latest recommendations are at the end of each list in the District section but long-standing, out standing and/or regular recommendations tend to move towards the top of each list.

 

# 1 – TUBAN and KUTA DISTRICT SECTION. –

1.      Shopping - (Leather / Tailors / Silver / Jewelery / Watches / CDs / fishing etc ) –

2.     Eating – There are over 80 entries here and there are probably another 80 that could be entered.

3.     Drinking –

4.     Visiting –

5.     Doing –

6.     People –

7.     Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

# 2 – LEGIAN and SEMINYAK DISTRICT SECTION –
including recent information on Canggu and Kerobokan, an emerging tourist area north of Seminyak.

1.        Shopping - (Leather / Tailors / Silver / Jewelery / Pearls / Watches / CDs / -pets - etc ) –

2.       Eating – There are over 60 entries here.

3.       Drinking – Sammi and Sussi’s “BaliTravelForum Bar”.

4.       Visiting –

5.       Doing -

6.       People –

7.       Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

 

# 3 - JIMBARAN BEACH DISTRICT SECTION. –

1.        Shopping

2.       Eating –

3.       Drinking –

4.       Visiting –

5.       Doing –

6.       People –

7.       Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

# 4 – NUSA, BENOA and BUALU DISTRICT SECTION. –

1.          Shopping -

2.         Eating – Although are nearly 20 entries here, there are certainly many more in the district.

3.         Drinking –

4.         Visiting –

5.         Doing –

6.         People –

7.         Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

# 5 – SANUR,  DENPASAR & LEMBONGAN ISLAND DISTRICT SECTIONS. –

1.           Shopping – Money changers / Leather / Tailors / Wholesale Watches / Spectacles / Gold / VCDs, CDs, software etc. / Markets / Fabrics and curtains including Silks / Fishing Tackle / Camera Repairs / Perfume –

2.          Eating – There are over 40 restaurants listed here, mainly in Sanur.

3.          Drinking –

4.          Visiting –

5.          Doing –

6.          People –

7.          Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap and NOT cheap!).

# 6 - UBUD DISTRICT SECTION. –

1.          Shopping - including Markets,, Silver & Jewelery – Crafts – Galleries – Tailor – Home ware shops -

2.         Eating – There are over 40 choices here.

3.         Visiting –

4.         Doing –

5.         Drivers –

6.         Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

# 7 - BEDUGUL DISTRICT SECTION. –

1.          Shopping – Produce.

2.         Eating –

3.         Visiting –

4.         Doing –

5.         People –

6.         Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

 

 # 8 – LOVINA and SINGARAJA DISTRICT SECTION. – Singaraja was known as Buleleng, and is still sometimes referred to in this way by older Balinese.

1.        Shopping -

2.       Eating –

3.       Drinking –

4.       Visiting –

5.       Doing –

6.       People –

7.       Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap) – and to the east of Singaraja towards Candi Dasa -

 

# 9 - CANDI DASA DISTRICT SECTION. Also includes Amed. – Padang Bai and Tulumben.

1.        Shopping -

2.       Eating –

3.       Visiting –

4.       Doing –

5.       People –

6.       Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap). Our experiences at Amed suggest that there is no cheap accommodation if you want a few luxuries more than 2* places will offer.'

 

# 10 – WESTERN BALI SECTION.  It’s at most 3 hours from Kuta to Gillimanuk in the far west, with not a lot to see along the way unless you happen to be in Negara when the bull races are on. From Gillimanuk along the north coast to Lovina is another leisurely 3 hours with a lot more to see and do along the way.

1.        Shopping -

2.       Eating –

3.       Visiting –

4.       Doing –

5.       Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

 

 

 

# 11 - LOMBOK DISTRICT SECTION. – How will you get there?

6.       Shopping - Pearls –

7.       Eating –

8.       Visiting –

9.       Doing –

10.     Accommodation – (Standard and Cheap).

 

 

 

 

GENERAL INFORMATION – Part 2.

.

CONTACTS AND INFORMATION –

.

Bali is The Island of the Gods, The Island of Smiles, Paradise Island, and many other wonderful, laudable things – but it is also a ‘third world’ country and if something goes wrong and you need help then you need to know where to go.
It’s been said that some of the following information might be better placed at the end of this file where it’s not so ‘in your face’, but I have come to the conclusion that that’s where it will not be seen and therefore it might as well not be in the file at all.
It’s here where you can find it in case you need it, it’s not here to put you off travelling to Bali, which is probably safer than travelling in many ‘first world’ countries. Be cautious as you would normally be – but don’t spoil your holiday by unnecessary worry.
If you want to check on the latest information about shots recommended before undertaking travel in Bali (or elsewhere) log onto http://www.tmvc.com.au/ in Oz. Other countries will doubtless have similar sites.

1.          If you get sick your hotel will call a reputable doctor to come and see you.
Don’t delay and risk ruining your holiday. It might cost you over A$100 but you’ve got insurance – use it and save your $1000’s holiday.

2.         PHONE NUMBERS –
* Police 110
* Fire 113
* Ambulance 118
* Search & Rescue 111 / 115 / 151
* Hospitals, Dentists, Blood Service and other professional services – see the following lists.
* If you’re overseas and want to find out if your risk situation has changed call the Australian Consular Emergency Service for current information on ‘+’ 61 26 261 3305. From Indonesia (Bali) the ‘+’ is either 001 801 (via Indosat) or 008 801 (via SatelIndo). The Telephone Codes pages in the back (usually) of your local phone book will give you the codes for other countries.

3.         Bali International Medical Centre. On the airport By Pass road opposite Matahari Tuban Plaza in Tuban (not Kuta). Ph 761 263. Only 5 mins by taxi from Kuta BMIC employs expatriate western staff from around the world. Only local doctors are allowed to practise in Indonesia. BIMC has full emergency/ambulance & diagnostic equipment, radiology department and on-line medical consultation services via video conferencing. International Travel Insurance policies accept BMIC. http://www.bimcbali.com/ .

4.         International SOS Medika Klinik Bali, (764 515 or 755 768), Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai 24X, KUTA. Almost directly across from BMIC (see above). Ph 764 556.  The 24 hour alarm centre, Ph 756 768.  Global HQ is in Singapore. They have a branch in Sydney (Aust) at 4 Martin Place, Ph 9372 2400.

5.         Merdeka Medical Centre (MMC), Jl Merdeka, /2 Renon, Denpasar. 24-hour clinic and chemist. A number of specialists, laboratory, x-ray equipment.

6.         Bali Sanglah General Hospital (RSUP Sanglah) began a CT Scan facility mid 2002.

7.         Ubud Clinic – (24 hour service) Jl Raya Ubud No 36, Camphuan. 974 911.

8.         Bali Blood Bank. Run by Red Cross, ‘safe, modern, skilful and efficient’ says an Aussie nurse.  Severe shortages of negative blood as Indonesians are virtually all positive. Help yourself and other tourists.  DONATE! Ph 227224 or 247 739 in Bali.  Mobile service comes to you!
Be a show-off – donate by the pool.
There is a blood transfusion service unit in Denpasar (ph 227 224) or call Freddy Subianto of Rotary if you have language difficulties – daytime 751 687 or 765 884 or night time at the Kura Kura Bar & Grill in Seminyak, 730 445.  They’ll pick up a group of you from your hotel in a mini ambulance!  Now there’s something to talk about.
Supported by Bali Rotary clubs. Only sterile, disposable needles are used. Australian health professionals who have investigated and used the service praise it highly.

9.         Doctor – Dr Coney, GP, Jl Bypass Sanur. 288 128.
           - Dr Conny Pangkahila, Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai 25X, Sanur, near Ritra Carco depot.
           - Dr AA Made Djelantik, Jl Hayam Waruk Denpasar.

10.      Dentist – Ritjie Rihartinah, Jl Pratama No 81, Nusa Dua. 771 324. 
Also Sucipto, near the Bali Bank in Jl Diponogoro, 150 A32/34, Denpasar. Ph 222 541. Very good dentist with up-to-date equipment and quite cheap but in a very scruffy looking shopping area. Appointments required and work guaranteed! E-mail [email protected].
Also Bali911 Dental Clinic, Jl Patimura No 9. Ph 249 749. Go past the Bird Market on Jl Veteran & turn right at the end. You should see it on the left side. It’s a couple of doors away from the BMIC, see note 3 above. This clinic is open from noon to 3 pm. No appointment is required. English is spoken - clearly. The equipment is as you would expect to find in the best practice in your home town.
Rudyard Salindeho practices a few doors from the medical clinic opposite the Galleria Duty Free at the roundabout, Kuta. First class equipment. Recommended by BMIC.  www.balidentalclinic.com or look for their advertisement in the Bali Yellow Pages.

11.       Chiropractor – Dr J Taylor, Jl Kajeng No35, Ubud. 974 393.
                    - Tony Dawson – western trained. Kuta Poleng Centre near Dijon deli at the roundabout Sanur-Kuta.
                    - Don’t overlook the locals. (Not the beach massagers but the village practitioners.) Some are amazing with great skills developed over years of hands-on experience.

12.      Paediatrician – Dr Sugita, Jl Tuban, Kuta. 751 301.

13.      Eye Clinic – John Fawcett – Jl Pengembak No 14 Banjar Blanjong Sanur. Also collects your old glasses for treatment of locals who cannot afford others. [email protected] . Ph (0361) 287 707 or 270 812.

14.      Midwife – Kim (also works at BMIC on Tuesdays – see above) 0811 386 256 or (0361) 289 913. [email protected] .The sign ‘BIDAN” indicates the midwifes clinic. There is a maternity Hospital, Kasih Ibu, near Denpasar. Local drivers know how to get there. There is also a Birthing Clinic next to the orphanage in the village of Palasari in West Bali.

15.      Nurse. Australian trained. Kim P. 0811 386 256 for advice if all else fails.

16.      Deep Tissue Therapy massage. 3 qualified, blind men work at the Bumi Ayu Bungalows in Sanur.  Ph 289 101.

17.      CONSULATES:
Australia, Canada & New Zealand. Jl Prof Yamin No 4, Renon, Denpasar. Ph (62-361) 235 092, Fax (62-361) 231 990. E-Mail [email protected] . Aussies who can’t go on holidays without taking their sports baggage with them should check with www.homesick,com.au/index.html for all the latest info.
British – Jl Mertassi N0 2 Sanur. Ph 235 092.
Dutch – Jl H R Resuna Said Kav, S-3, 12950 Kuningan, Jakarta. Ph (021) 525 1515.
French – Bypass Road No 35X, Sanur. 285 485.
German – Jl Pantai Karang No 17 Sanur. 288 535.
Japan – Jl Raya Puputan, Renon. 227 628.
Swiss & Austria – John P Zurcher, Komplex Istana Galleria, Blok Valet No 12, Jl Patih Jelantik, Kuta. Ph (+62-(0)0361 - 751 735, Fax +62-(0)361 – 754-457..
Sweden & Finland – Jl Segara Ayu, Sanur. 288 407.
USA – Jl Hayam Waruk No 188, Denpasar. 233 605.

18.      Avoid Wayan and Melody Fullmoon if you’re after business advice or assistance.

19.      LAWYER – Peter Johnson, LL.B. Called a ‘Legal Consultant’ in Bali. Australian married to Balinese. Ph 759 722, Mobile 081 2380 2550. E-mail [email protected].

20.     NOTARIES. Not the same as lawyers but authorised by the Indonesian government to legalise a range of official documents and papers. For foreign recognition of a Notary’s verification the notary must hold accreditation from the foreign country. A particular level of Notary, known as a ‘PPAT’ must be used for property matters. Kurnia at the Bali Immigration and Advisory Service in Jl Batu Belig in Seminyak is a Notary. There are many with street-front shops who are reliable but for O/S travellers finding one with your language skills might be a problem.

21.      VETS – Dr Dharma. Used by Bali Society for the Protection of Animals. Jl Raya Sesetan, 338 Pesanggaran, Denpasar. Ph/fax 726 856.
Dr Listriani. Has a foundation to care for street animals. Very caring, compassionate. She also makes house calls in Bali. Ph 081 239 03756 and 264067.

22.     Airline contact numbers and office addresses as well as timetables at Ngurah Rai airport in Bali can be found at www.bali-thepages.com/airlines.shtml .

23.     ‘Bali Belly’ is a pain in the - - - -, for at least 24 hours.
There are many recommended remedies but its best not to get it in the first place. Personal hygiene needs to be watched more carefully than at home, particularly hand washing. You’ll know that you’ve got it about 3-4 hours after you get it – the bug that is. You might not want to believe it at first but a couple of hours later there’ll be no denying it.
DO NOT DRINK THE WATER FROM THE TAPS!
Be especially careful of this when your guard is down – in your hotel shower and when cleaning your teeth. Keep bottled water in your bathroom at all times. Purchase your own if you are in a cheaper hotel that does not supply it. You must however drink adequate water or you will dangerously dehydrate in the tropical climate. Safe, bottled water is cheap and readily available virtually all over the island. You know you’re on a good thing when you see the locals doing it!  Guys (and Gals?) if you use a blade razor to shave do not rinse it under the tap. Rinse it in bottled water also or you might break out in a rash that is not nice in sensitive areas.
Wash your hands after visiting the toilet or handling money particularly. See ‘HEALTH PROTECTION’ below.
Don’t drink using straws as they are washed and re-used in some places.
Don’t buy bottled drinks that are kept cool in ice/water slurry cold chests. Purchase only from refrigerated cabinets.
Ice in the tourist areas is made under government control and should be safe in drinks.
Imodium is a common clinical remedy (A$2.00 app; take 2 tablets straight away and 1 next morning).
Some say this is only a ‘stop gap’ (is that a good choice of words?) for situations where you must travel as it can interfere with the bodily functions and inhibit the flushing out the bacteria and toxins. These antagonists would say that Pepto-bismol is a better way to go. 8 tablets a day, every day, all at once or spread out thro’ the day. Changes the acidity of your gut and drives the bugs out so they don’t multiply faster than your system can handle them.
Loperomide usually works within 1 hour.  Others recommend daily Acidophilous tablets as a preventative to ward off the bugs.
Cipro or Ciproxin is a common prescription cure-all anti biotic.
Another remedy is Norrit, little black activated charcoal tablets available at Matahari Supermarkets and many other places in Bali for Rp6700 for 40 tablets. 6 to 9 tablets three times a day.
Some travellers swear by lots of Entrostop charcoal tablets from a local ‘Apotic’ (chemist or drugstore). They should not be used with other medication – or at least not within 4 hours as the beneficial effects of both may be cancelled out.
Locals reputedly use SG Tablets from their local ‘Apotic’ (chemist). They are not easy to find and you may be told that they are no longer made. Keep searching.
A recently recommended preventative with solid (no pun intended) support is Raspberry juice cordial – with at least 30%, preferably more, real juice in the cordial. Mix it strong – 25% cordial: 75% bottled water. Ellagic acid is the ingredient that makes the difference! Some people have a neat swig every morning before breakfast, about 10 mil of 100%, 20 mil for 50% etc. Good for kids.
In Oz, some Coles Supermarkets stock Sunraysia Premium Raspberry Delight – 80% - A$7.99 for 375 ml. It is a warehouse itemm and can be ordered in by any Coles manager.  Also available from many supermarkets in Bali, including Circle K shops.
100% natural Garden Fresh raspberry fruit syrup is available at the Pasadena Foodland in South Oz, A$5.50 for 750 ml bottle, also Golden Grove Village. Other Foodland managers can get stock in for you with a little persuasion. Contains only sugar, raspberry juice and citric acid. Used for drink flavouring and dessert toppings.
Also raspberry syrup available at Gaganis Bros just off South Road at the intersection with Grange Road. 1.5 litres for A$4.95.
Anchor Cordial is available from Dewsons and Supa Valu in the northern Perth suburbs. Check the concentration of raspberry.
Cascade Raspberry Fruit Juice Syrup is also good. Ph Freecall 1800 641 647 for stockists in your (Oz) area.
Dick Smith and Golden Circle (in Oz) both have raspberry cordial with 40% juice. 
Get the good oil from this web address - http://www.abc.net.au/worldtoday/s263898.htm .
100% concentrate is available from Bramble Farm in Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia from Di Benson who will post you a supply COD – Di Benson at [email protected]. Ph 03 9776 7018. Take 10 mils undiluted twice a day. Tastes good, berry flavour, not sickly sweet. Also from Shepparton at www.berrysweet.com.au.
Some travellers also recommend a daily ’Yakult’ yoghurt drink.  Similar anti-bacterial agents are available in tablet forms.  One is Megadophalus from health food store or chemist.  Start taking a daily dose up to a month before you leave.
If you want to go the natural way be prepared to start up to 3 months before you leave as the body is slow to adapt to a new regime and develop the required resistances to invading bugs.
Another natural way to ward off the bug is Acidophilus Capsules from Health Food stores. Somewhat similar to Yakult. Best to start well before you go.
The Bali International Medical Clinic has dietary recommendations if you’re unlucky (or careless) enough to get it.
AVOID – greasy fried foods, soft drinks, alcohol, coffe, dairy foods except plain natural yoghurt, spicy foods, excessive smoking and any food or drink that is either very hot or very cold.
RECOMMENDED – Isotonic sports drinks such as Gatorade, pocari, sweat etc, apples, bananas, plain rice or porridge, oats and semolina custard, clear soups, herbal teas, natural yoghurt and acidophilus/ biphodophilis supplements, ginger and peppermint oils in lollies or teas, small quantities of fluids regularly. Babies and young children may become temporarily intolerant to cows milk but should be able to handle soy milk.
It is always best to discuss these things with your doctor before you go of course (and if you are travelling with children be sure about child-size doses too), but if you get ‘caught short’ then try something that has provided relief or protection to others rather than do nothing.
If you get it (the dreaded ‘BB’ that is), drinking lots of water, light teas, perhaps a little boiled rice will do no harm. Most would agree that if you are feverish and vomiting with stomach cramps and the squirts get a doctor and have a shot in the bum, and no arguments. (You do have travel insurance – don’t you!) If you vomit after having prescribed tablets cut them in half and take the lighter dose twice as often. See also ‘Eating’ and ‘Drinking in Safety’ below.
Don’t confuse the body’s normal reaction to a sudden change of diet, especially a diet with heaps of fresh fruit in it, with Bali Belly.  Change your diet slowly, working from your normal foods to more exotic ones in easy stages and small doses.  Within a few days you will be safely ready for anything that exotic Bali can provide for you – except the reticulated water!
Whilst it is prudent to be cautious and use common (or un-common) sense do not let senseless paranoia ruin your holiday.

24.     Carry toilet paper with you everywhere in Bali even if you don’t have Bali Belly. The chance of you finding a good, clean, comfortable, useable, flush toilet when you’re out-and-about in Bali is slim. The chances of you finding good, clean, comfortable, useable toilet paper in public places away from your hotel, even in reasonable restaurants, is almost zero!  You might like to look at ‘Toilets, Loos and Dunnies’, below.

25.     HEALTH PROTECTION.
Be wary but not paranoid to the point where you ruin your holiday. The vast majority of travellers never catch anything, but most are prepared and take simple precautions whilst on holiday.
You should consult with your medical advisor about your possible need for the following shots before visiting some parts of Bali, Lombok and other Indonesian islands:
Have a look at the Q & A section of the Better Health website to find some valuable facts rather than listen to helpful but probably ill-informed friends.
** Diptheria/tetanus – up-dating with booster shots strongly advised, even if you’re not going to travel.
** Polio. A good idea to be current with your protection anywhere in the world – even at home.
** Hepatitis A. Many doctors will advise it. A follow-up shot after 6 months will give you the best lifetime protection that’s available at the moment. Don’t forget it if you intend to travel in the future.
**Hepatitis B. Do you live a bit on the wild side? – take a few risks? – Then certainly get this shot.
* Typhoid. Particularly advised for some areas.
* Malaria is particular risk in Lombok and other islands and only somewhat less so in Bali. 
You should be a bit concerned that malaria is reportedly on the rise in Bali despite conflicting claims that the island is malaria free.  In the southern tourist areas alone there were 688 cases reported within the first quarter of 2002. The whole of 2001 for this area saw only 753 cases with 8 deaths. Protection is wise. Dress to cover legs and arms from sundown on. Use skin repellents liberally and ask for a mozzie coil to be placed under your table when dining.
* Dengue Fever is another mosquito borne disease which can sneak up on you anywhere in the tropics. The mozzie is smaller, quieter, less painful and active during the day, which of course increases the risk of being bitten. It pays to use repellent all the time. If you suddenly develop a fever with a rash, call a doctor. Some travellers suggest that vitamin B1, started 2 weeks before you go and continued while you are there makes the skin unattractive to the Dengue mosquito.
If your travels are going to take you further north the risk situation would be worse. 
4 to 6 weeks before travel consult your doctor for CURRENT medical advice and preventative medicines (be very careful in maintaining the dose schedule) rather than relying on out-of-date travel books or past freedom from infection. 
Precautions are simple to take.  Doryx is a commonly prescribed anti-malarial.
Anti typhoid might also be wise.
Have a look at http://www.cdc.gov/travel/seasia.htm.
DO CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR FOR CURRENT ADVICE.
When in Bali wear clothes that cover bare skin around the hours of sundown - when mozzies are particularly active – to dawn. Use personal repellents and aerosol sprays. Ask for a mozzie coil to be lit under your restaurant table. Mozzie nets might be advisable for sleeping in northern areas where there might be no window screens. Some travellers even dip them in insecticide.  They are not all that common in the shops in Bali but there is a shop in the small street that runs between Jls Melasti and Padma. Also further along Jl Legian towards Seminyak there are some other shops. Another shop is in Jl Sahadewa (also known as Garlic Lane) towards the end nearest Melasti Street where the Taman Legian Gardens Restaurant is on the corner.  Shops which sell cushions also seem to have them frequently.
The Oz Army uses Johnsons Baby Clear Lotion Anti Mosquito (with a light green cap in 2002) in tropical jungle work. Has no DEET so good for those with sensitivities.  - - -  “ . . it worked for us too!”.
Aquaear for tropical fungus ear infection prevention.
Dermasoft and/or Dermaclean Lotion, disinfectant, instant dry for hands or a waterless antibacterial hand wash, available in the Matahari supermarket in Kuta. Has moisturiser and is self-drying. 100 ml tube. Use it before eating especially if you’ve been handling money – which you will ALWAYS be doing, I guarantee!
Aqium Gel. Waterless hand wash. Not sticky. 70 & 375 ml containers. $3.95 and $6.95 from pharmacies in Oz. Pump pack and purse pack. Cheaper than hand wipes and nothing to throw away afterwards.
Wet Ones Anti-bacterial Wipes. Check supermarkets for Johnsons in baby section. Also Dettol Wipes are in a green and white pack, a bit stronger than baby wipes perhaps.
Antis, a waterless hand gel, is available from some supermarkets in Bali.

26.     If you’re travelling with kids take (or purchase there) a half litre, trigger operated, plastic spray bottle and fill it with (bottled) water. Spray the kids, or let them spray themselves when they (and you) get hot. You might also find interesting information about travelling with children at http://www.geocities.com/filo1_au/BaliWithKidz.html.

27.     The traditional healers of Bali have enviable reputations for diagnosing and treating long suffering tourists. One such is Tjokorda Gede Rai in Sukawati. Get your hotel reception people to phone him and make an appointment for you. Another is the Surya Dharma clinic in Ubud. Its on the western end of the main Ubud road, Ph (361) 976 123.

28.     Beware Cane mites or Wood Lice and midges from chairs bars etc if allergic. Some people bang the chairs sharply on the floor and look for white or reddish dust which is actually the mites. Amongst others, the Bali Aroma has caught at least one unfortunate sufferer. Use Autin (pink) liberally. Avoid perfume and make-up as much as possible that seems to attract them. Use moisturiser at bedtime to compensate. Spray your room liberally several times a week as you go out for the day. If you have cane furniture you can spray it with Baygon. It also oils squeaky doors and toilet seats but take care with it and don’t get it on the floor as it’s slippery. Try Phenergan cream (anti histamine ingredient) if all your avoidance tactics fail. If you have hive type symptoms take Telfast tablets from home. If all else fails call the hotel doctor and get a shot of cortisone or take cortisone and/or anti-histamine tablets from your home doctor if you know from experience that you’ll have a problem. Locals recommend a lemon juice rub down to neutralize the toxins and allergic reaction followed by the local product Tiger Balm (some claim that Silver Clove is a better product) ointment or Balsem (balm) or liquid Minyak Angin in a green bottle from local Apotics to ease the rash and itch. Try not to wear short shorts or dresses and don’t rely on sarongs to protect your legs and butt. Also watch out if you are in the habit of resting your elbows or chest on the bar – and the bar has a cane edge. Very painful and embarrassing.
Frequent traveller ‘Chezz’ has written of her experiences and suggestions at www.ourbali.org/canemites.htm .

29.     Similarly beware of jellyfish stings. An immediate treatment is lots of vinegar poured over the site followed by an anti-histamine injection as soon as possible. Adrenalin injections also work but only if anti-histamines are not available.

30.     Beware of temporary tattoos. Many people have severe reactions to the chemical cocktail called PDD which is used instead of real henna, and which is toxic and can cause liver and kidney problems. Most severe in children. Refer to http://www.hennapage.com/henna/warnings.html, or http://sphosting/reverendbunny/mediappd.htm or http://www.expat.or.id/medical/blackhennareactions.html . Cortisone cream applied regularly gives some relief. Researchers in Germany have also uncovered a link between temporary tattoos and permanent, lifelong dermatitis. (3D World Magazine issue #569). Sufferers remain allergic to some metals, detergents and foods.
Be even more careful of permanent Tattoos. Ensure that you un-seal any sterile equipment and that you see the gun sterilised before use. Insist on new ink/dyes as these can also transmit Hep C.

31.      Do not risk unprotected sex in Bali. AIDS/HIV are at declared ‘concentrated epidemic levels’ (Kuta Conference 2004) in Indonesia, and Bali is a part of Indonesia with a high level of comparatively wealthy travellers and consequently a high level of sex workers and ‘incidental’ sexual activity. The 2004 conference detailed 90-130,000 known cases of infected people.
Evidence suggests that one third of cases result from shared needles in drug use and the remainder mainly from sexual activity. Drug use, possession and sale in Indonesia is a very risky business with incarceration in some of the worst third world gaols being only part of the risk.
Condoms are available. Many travellers recommend bringing your own.
The most active brothels are in Jl Danau Poso, Sanur.
There are no compulsory medical checks of sex workers in Indonesia.

32.     Cuts and scratches. TREAT THEM! Try local Teih Ta Yao Gin Chinese medicine as dressing. If you want to take something with you try ‘Savlon". Locals love to get the remainder in the tube when you leave.

33.     Mosquitos. Cover up at dusk. Baygon electric repellent dispensers at night. Cheap in Bali.

34.     ‘Autan’ insect repellent is available in Bali at Matahari stores or ‘Apotics". Pink tube or lotion in pink bottle. Smells better to humans than Aerogard.
Ask restaurants to light a mosquito coil and put it under your dinner table.
Carry a stick of dry ‘Repel’ in your bum bag. (ps. Put a small flash light in there too, just for the normal power failures and for walking home in poorly lit streets with un-even surfaces.)
Dusk and dawn are the bad times for mozzies.
RID and OFF are also good.
‘Skin-So-Soft’ by Avon also works for some.
Generally repellents containing DEET (NOT RECOMMENDED for young children nor for frequent, generous application to adults – see the ‘NO DEET’ note under ‘Health’, above.) are good although some smell so bad that humans are repelled also. Body chemistry seems to react differently to different products.
If you are bitten despite all your precautions then use ‘Soov’ gel, Australian made by Ego Pharmaceutical, with antiseptic and anaesthetic properties, its magic! Also recommended is a local product (Yes, the locals also get bitten) called Tiger Balm. Rp6,000 for a small jar with a yellow screw top. Stings like crazy for a second when applied to fresh bites but then the itching is all gone.
There are also lotions available that combine sunscreen and insect repellent. Ask at your pharmacy or check in your local Army Surplus Store.

35.     Ultra Swim shampoo, or Aloe Rid (by Nexus), for getting pool chlorine out of your hair thereby keeping blondes the way their menfolk prefer them. Hair Conditioner is sometimes called Hair Cream.

36.     SUNSCREEN – If believe you can’t be sunburnt you’ve never been to Bali. Most brands of sunscreen are available, but not cheaply, in Bali supermarkets. Use nothing less than 15+ - 30+ and more as necessary. It should be re-applied frequently on any bare skin. Really it’s best not to have any bare skin. Take a look at the burnt boobs on Kuta beach any day. How nightly activities are pleasurable is beyond comprehension. Farmland 15+ in pump pack is good. Includes moisturiser. Also good for massages, particularly with a little of the local Tiger Balm or Silver Clove ointments. Most local massage oils are just coconut bastes for cooking flesh and are difficult to wash off.
Absolute Magic, Bingo, also Rid+ with anti-mosquito agent for sand fly infested evenings. Similar combination preparations are also available at Army Surplus Stores.

37.     A BALI FIRST-AID KIT.
One traveller took more than the usual precautions that might be of interest to others -
Antibiotic ointment (Betadene) or similar),
Antibiotic tablets,
Antifungal cream/powder,
Panadol, in suspension if for children,
Antihistamine (Clarantyne),
Band-aids,
Calamine lotion – Stingose gel,
Gauze bandage,
Electrolyte replacement tablets to replace lost fluids, Hydrolyte can be frozen like an iceblock stick for children,
Imodium for adults, Donnagel for kids,
Insect repellent, with or without DEET, RID roll-on is handy to carry in your bum bag,
Personal medications as required – with prescriptions in case you are questioned in Customs,
Safety pins and scissors – (not in your hand luggage),
Soap, sunscreen and Aloe Vera for sun burn,
Non-mercury thermometer,
Ti Tree Oil antiseptic,
Toilet paper and hand/nose tissues and ‘Wet Ones’,
Tweezers.
Carrying this pack will surely keep you fit and well!
If you have an allergy that requires medication from time to time, take the medication with you as it may not be available in Bali. Also have a letter from your doctor that clears your prescription through any Customs inspections. Indonesian authorities are (rightly in some cases) suspicious of tablet, capsule and injectable medicines.

38.     ELECTRICITY; The Indonesian supply is 220 volts at 50 cycles or Hertz. Multipoint adaptors (to connect the world’s various plugs to the Indonesian socket which has 2 round plugs) are provided by most hotels if you phone Room Service or Housekeeping. Speak clearly and with an explanation when you ask for an adaptor or you’ll get a doctor, as friends of ours once did. These adaptors can also be purchased at the department stores in Bali for about Rp20,000 which is a bit over US$2.

39.      SHIPPING:  Freight & duty to and in Oz will be about the same as the cost of the goods in Bali, ie the cost of the goods landed in Australia will at least double their price in Bali. Keep your receipts. 
Note that Duty Free only applies to goods that actually accompany you on your trip home. If you post stuff you will have to pay duty, if you ever get items posted from Bali that is!
Don’t try to bring banana products into Oz. Many other plant materials will either cause you hassles or lots of money to have fumigated.
Try to arrange your requirements with a freight-forwarder at home if you can find one with experience of Bali shipping. Later questions/problems can more easily be answered at home by a local agent.
* Furniture to Oz –Buy Bali Direct.  Harry Kellerman, Collaroy NSW, [email protected] .
* Mari – 0361 759 980 – furniture to Australia.
* Freight office at the entrance to Bumi Ayu Hotel in Sanur, across the road from Besakih.
* Pt Twin Mandala Indocargo, Seminyak. E-mail [email protected] or contact Dewa Parwita – [email protected].
* Robin Furniture, Kerobokan. Quality teak. 6 seater dining table, Rp1,500,000; 6 chairs to match Rp269,000. Transport A$300/cubic metre to Sydney. Add 10% import duty and 10% GST.
* Oka Sari Cargo. Ibu Agung speaks fluent English. ‘Been using them for years to Oz. Highest recommendation’.
* Fullmoon Exports – Petitenget Road, KEROKOBAN, Kuta, Bali. Indonesia 80361. Ph 62 361 731 262, Fax 62 361 733 123. E-mail [email protected]. 
* Melody Kariata (ex-pat Aussie) and husband Wayan. Recommended by Shar˄kie. Melody Kariata, [email protected].
* Balioky International Cargo. Ph + 62 (361) 755 156 Fax + 62 361 755 154.
* Ritra Cargo. Managed by Sari. Her E-mail is [email protected].
* ASAS International Cargo. 62 361 465-601. See Arta or Agus.
* Budi Prasetyo, WUS Cargo, 728 335, Mob 081 238 463 22. “4 years no problem service.”
* PT Abriadi Utama Kargo for shipping freight. In Monkey Forest Road, Ubud, just around the corner opposite the markets.  They will carefully pack for you. About 10 weeks from Ubud to Melbourne Australia.
* Karya Cargo in Sanur did a goog job but Aus Customs would not accept the fumigation certificate and insisted on doing the job again at a cost of A$250.00. Probably a good idea to e-mail Customs while you are in Bali and make sure that they will accept fumigation certificates from any agent you want to use.
* Sapta Prima Cargo. Excellent documentation for Aus Customs. Good packing. Reasonably quick delivery too.

40.     Golden Bali (Adelaide office in South Australia but will quote anywhere) is run by ‘Putu’ Les Williams and David Pascoe, Ph 8227 1522, Fax 8359 2589. They are specialists in Bali and seem to know it backwards and in all directions. They have a Bali office to solve your problems if any arise over there at (361 62) 244 509 (talk to Pak Gede, as in ‘G’day’). (361 62) and their travelguide and companion if need be is Gusti at3387 40496. www.goldenbali.com , E-mail [email protected].

41.      Internet Travel.
* Halo-bali.com ,
* baliroomfinder.net ,
* asiatravel.com (**),
* baliwww.com/bali-villas/index3.htm.
* ABL Tours not recommended.

42.     South Yarra Travel has its adherents and detractors. Claims of unreliable and unfriendly service as well as deceit arose in ’03.

43.     BestFlights seem to be getting a reputation for advertising cheap packages that ‘disappear’ just before you rang but there are always others available at a higher cost. They get a bit agro if you query the sales people too! (2003). Try ‘Bali Packages’.  http://www.bestflights,au/cgi-bin/5/flights?mainlist .  Ph 1300 767 757.

44.     There have been cases of credit card mis-use when booking hotels through indo.com. Complaints seem to fall on deaf ears.

45.     Bali Villas – the Bali Travel Forum hosts – http://balitravelforum.com/ – Guarantee cheapest hotel accommodation but no discount air fares, except by Singapore Airways from US. An Australian service is due ‘soon’.

46.     Travel Insurance can only be highly recommended. Medical costs are enough to ruin your holiday and quite a bit of your life thereafter if you’re not covered. A single doctor’s visit to your hotel to give you a shot for Bali Belly will cost you A$120 (2003). Most decent travel insurance policies will ensure that you get a full refund on your return home.
The insurance obtained through Golden Bali Travel in Adelaide is very good and not expensive.
’Cover More’, through Flight Center agencies refunds expenses without deducting any excess.

47.     Qantas "Attendants" (?) are regularly reported to be inattentive if not rude and aggressive! The 747’s are real cattle trucks. Garuda are using new aircraft from Australia and have the most favourable reputation at the moment (2001) as well as being the cheapest carrier.

BOOKS:
* “At Cost Bali” – easy to carry/refer-to book. Ideal for first time travellers.
* "The Knopf Guides to Bali", travel book.
* "BaliPlus Guide Book", free in Bali.
* "Bali, A Paradise Created" Balinese recent history by Australian Adrian Vickers. Periplus editions after 1996 are second printings. ISBN 0-945971-28-1. Perhaps the first book to read if you’re serious about discovering the roots of the Balinese and their culture. It’s very easy to read for what could be called a modern history text.
* "Bali From the Air", Lloyd and Yogerst, R Ian Lloyd productions. Spectacular aerial views of the Bali countryside and shores, each with short location/explanation text.
* The Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok. Recent, very accurate easy to carry. http://www.travel.roughguides.com .
* “The Other Side of Morning” is Australian Ron Tassell’s tale of the supernatural aspects of Bali’s village culture experienced over two decades.
* “The Art and Culture of Bali”, U Ramseyer edited by Schwabe and Basel. ISBN 3-7965-1886-9 1977 A large and detailed work with lots of pictures to illustrate the points made in the text.
* “The Island of Bali”. Miguel Covarrubias. One of the earliest books to describe Bali, and consequently seen as something of a classic in the history anthology list. A good perspective of the impact of tourism from the very beginning, detailed descriptions of life and everts and a host of interesting old photos.
* “Bali; Living in Two Worlds. A Critical self-portrait”. Edited by Urs Ramsayer and published by the Museum der Kulturen in Basel. Mainly Balinese writers and photos byacclaimed photographer Rama Surya. Available in Bali.
* “Jakarta Shadows” is a fairly new fiction and has remarkable insights into local history and culture covering Bali and Java. It is available in Bali at Ganesha Books in Ubud.
* ”Patch of Paradise” is Gaia Grant’s story of her family establishing a (now successful) business in Bali. Good reading and will strike a chord in those a bit familiar with Bali.
* ”A Little Bit One O’Clock – Living with a Balinese Family” by W Ingram is the factual recounting of the lives of a Americam couple and their daily lives in Bali and their interactions with a Balinese family. Easy reading. ISBN 979-95322-0-5.
* Our Hotel in Kuta – Louise & Bob Koke. The story of the establishment of the first hotel in Kuta in the 1930s. Humerous in places and illustrated with period photos. Easy to read and entertaining.
* Bali, Sekala and Niskala. F B Eiseman. ISBN 0-945971-03-6 Three volumes of the deepest investigations of Bali and its cultural cosmos. ‘Sekala’ is the physical, visible side of Bali and Niskala’ is the hidden and mysterious spiritual Bali.
* “Bali Moon – A Spiritual Odyssey”  Odyle Knight. Give it a miss if titles such as this foretell of things not in your style. Historical/cultural information not well wrapped in a story line. ISBN 1-86505-138-1.
 The following three reviews come from Sandra Alexander, with her recommendations -

* "Fragrant Rice" by Janet de Neefe, published 2003 by Harper Collins/Flamingo. Readily available now. Janet and her husband Ketut Suardana run the Casa Luna and Indus restaurants in Ubud, the Honeymoon Guesthouse and the Casa Luna Homewares Emporium. Janet also runs the very (and deservedly) popular Casa Luna Cooking School. The book is a memoir and a cookbook. Janet's lived in Bali for 14 years, and reflects on her time and her life on the island. Excellent background and smashing recipes.

* "Island of Bali" by Miguel Covarrubias. Originally published in the 1930's, now published by Oxford. A classic and wonderful account of Balinese life. Extraordinary.  Covarrubias was a Mexican-born artist and cartoonist who lived in the USA. He was a fine artist and as well a cartoonist for "Vanity Fair” - he was really well connected in the show business circles of his day.  He and his wife spent quite some time in Bali in the 1930's, and the book is the result of their experiences. Beautifully written with superb illustrations - by Covarrubias of course. Still amazingly current.

* "A House in Bali" by Colin McPhee, originally published 1944, re-published 2002, Victor Gollancz.  McPhee was a composer who lived for a long time in Bali in the 1930's. The new edition has an informative preface by James Murdoch. The book is as much about Balinese music as about 'a house'.
* In The Arms Of Angels is a recent book by Kim Patras (an ex-pat, nurse and mother) which deals with the recent bombing in graphic detail. Highly recommended if you want to either settle or stir the demons within.

* A Short History of Bali. A very recent book (2004) which traces the history of Bali from Neolithic times to the present, including the infamous Kuta bombing. (Aus$30.) The author draws from a host of sources (all carefully documented) and provides a book that is an excellent first reader for those becoming interested in the history and development of Bali from the bronze/iron age to the recent Kuta bombing, including pre-tourist life, the Indian influence (ever wondered why the country is called ‘Indonesia’?) the Dutch and Japanese occupations, Hinduism/Islam and modern tourism.
* The Butterflies of Bali.
DICTIONARIES:
* Bali Pocket Dictionary is a three-way dictionary (English, Indonesian and three levels of Balinese) usually stocked in the book departments of Tiara Dewata and Matahari stores in Denpasar. It is published by Yayasan Swastiasu. It makes a good ‘Oleh oleh’ (gift) for some Balinese families.
* Other dictionaries are ‘Kamus Indonesia Inggris’ – John M Echols and ‘English Indonesian Dictionary’ – Hassan Shadily. Many such books are fairly easily obtained in Bali but not so easy in your home country perhaps.
* Periplus ‘Practical Balinese’ (they do a good fold out map of Bali too) written by Gunter Spritzing has basic Balinese (Note: not Bahasa Indonesia but Balinese, which is little used these days.) and the Aksara script and common travellers phrases.
* On the Web try www.ewgate.com/ewtranslite.html  (Chinese and Malaysian also), The Risanda page has a basic translation option, www.e-rice.com/dictionary.asp.
MAPS: Maps of Bali are really difficult to get if you are looking for something special. I use the Bali map from Periplus Travel Map of Indonesia in the Regional series, ISBN 0-945971-49-4 that costs about Aus$8.  Others recommend Bali Pathfinder that has some hiking and biking routes as well as the road network. Can be obtained from the Alas Arum supermarket in Sanur.  Maps on the net are either very vague or of a scale that obscures the detail you want if you’re interested in a map.  Try www.balipathfinder.com or do a general search “Bali+maps”.
Periplus now have a Bali Street Atlas which covers an astonishing amount of Bali in great detail. 3 different scales used according to size of town/village. Not real cheap at Rp165,000 (Aus$33) in Periplus stores in Bali Galleria, Warung Made (Seminyak), the airport and Gramadedia in Matahari’s, but invaluable if you’re a regular adventurer in Bali.

48.     Book shops. Books ae fairly expensive to buy in Bali but there are some swap and used book outlets for that holiday read
New book shops – At Periplus in the Galeria complex near the airport road roundabout, on the ground floor. On the first floor is Gramedia.  Periplus are also in Legian Street, Seminyak, near Made’s Warung. In Ubud on Jl Raya near Ary’s Warung. In the basement of Mataharis – mainly in Indonesian but some in English. A variety of comics here also as well as some classy foreign magazines. Charisma above the KFC store next to the petrol station on Jl Raya Kuta is mainly a Christian and educational outlet but some general stock also. The Bintang Market inSeminyak.
Used and swap shops – Many hotels have a small library of books that guests can borrow. You can also add to these collections for future guests and to maintain the stock levels as some inevitably go off to travel with guests who leave. At shops ask for the return price before you buy. It should be about half of the cost but it will be next to nothing if you don’t clarify the issue first.
At Garuda in Ubud, near the post office. In Poppies Lane II in Kuta, next to the fish and chip shop. The books here are repaired by the owner and sold with justifiable pride by the owner. English, Dutch, German and French languages abound. Prices from Rp80,000. In Candi Dasa on the hills side of the main road there are two bookshops. Near Bemo Corner in Kuta, turn left from Legian Street and go towards Denpasar. Look for a Circle K and a hairdresser. On Padma Utara near the Melasti Beach Hotel. Nirwana is near Bemo corner in Kuta.

 

 

49.     Astronomy your thing? The southern sky is visible in Bali and northern hemisphere visitors find this exciting and strange. To get a fore-taste of what you’ll see go to www.heavens-above.com , enter ‘Denpasar’, the date(s) of your holiday, select ‘Whole Sky Chart’ and enjoy the view. Print off a copy to take with you as a reference. You’ll see the famous (in Australa and neighbours at least) Southern Cross (or Crux). An avid amateur star-gazerin Bali is ‘Balibent’. If you contact him by posting on the Bali Travel Forum he can perhaps arrange a telescopic session for you.
Speaking of stars the Bahasa Indomesia word is ‘Bintang’ which is also the name of the local beer that you’re sure to enjoy while it’s helping avoid your dehydration.

50.     DOGS in Bali are often near starvation but they don’t have rabies. They are generally not pets and should be treated at least with respect if not caution. The Balinese traditionally regard them as reincarnations and evil spirits, consequently they try not to see them, or at least ignore them, although when they cannot do so they treat them with gentleness and respect (or is it just caution?). There are some signs that this is slowly changing as a result of an educational and care campaign carried out in recent years. More and more dogs are actually appearing to be healthy – but still don’t treat them as pets.
I recall the time a very mangey beach dog with pups insisted on sleeping under the sun lounges near a hotel pool. This obviously could not be accepted and eventually it was the pool attendant who accepted the responsibility of doing something about her. Armed with nothing more than a paper serviette he talked softly and gently to the dog, with no obvious threats or intimidating sounds and the dog responded by slowly raising herself from a comfortable repose with the pups and ambling off back to the beach.
The guests applauded the pool attendant, as much for his gentle approach I think as for his bravery in doing something no one else had the courage to try.
There are currently two organisations in Bali dedicated to helping sick and injured animals of all types. Desexing is an essential part of their service. The long-established Yudisthura, ‘Bali Street Dogs Foundation’, has been at work for a number of years and now has a fully equipped mobile clinic. Look at http://www.balistreetdogs.org.au/ . or www.yamp.com/balidogs.
The’ Bali Society for the Protection of Animals’ is a more recent assembly of carers who have established a shelter with a full time caretaker to tend sick animals. All involved are volunteers giving time when necessary to picking up and caring for sick animals. Their shelter number is 728 719. The Carer number is 287 816 (Sarita or Reski). Sarita’s mobile is 081 236 57927.  The address of the shelter is Jl Graha Wisata No!A, Sidakarya, Denpasar Selatan.
Donations of dry food (expensive to buy in Bali – airlines will often grant passage to overweight baggage if prior approvals are obtained from local offices), clean bedding, medicines etc, are welcomed by both groups. Vets travelling to Bali might consider giving a day of their professional services.
* There is a growing awareness of dogs as pets both within the ex-pat community and the Balinese themselves. In ’03 we noticed a number of pet shops appearing. There is one opposite the Supernova (I think) in Kuta which has a wide range of products but which regrettably keeps dogs for sale in appaling conditions. One which is becoming well known for dog and cat clothing is the Dogs Tail on Jl Raya Seminyak 4C, Seminyak. Ph 731 111. Its next to Mades Warung. ‘Expensive but cute.’ There is even a dog trainer and consultancy offering obedience training, behaviour therapy, socialisation and boarding. Phone R Christine on 081 238 139 28. Two shops are to be found close together in Legian street between Padma and Seminyak proper.

51.      FURNITURE – See also Shipping – above. Beware of any banana material if returning to Australia.
Mari of Mari’s Gallery, Melasti Street. Ph 759980 or 0811 388 697. Her English is excellent and she is honest.
Kenny, Seminyak. Most drivers know where to find him.
Made Patra. E-mail [email protected] which is a hotel run by Made’s wife, Miss Mudiasih.
Beware Jimbaran Rattan, run by Susie & Yoga Iswara at 38X on the By Pass road at Jimbaran.
Geneva Handcrafts and Geneva Furniture, Jl Raya Kerobokan, No 100. Ph (62 361) 733 571. About Rp10,000 cab fare from Legian.

52.     Storage of goods and bags is available at Ngurah Rai Airport. Turn to the left as you leave the arrivals hall. Or is it right since the renovations? Anyway it’s behind McDonalds towards the end of the buildings. Charges are Rp5,500 per item per day. It appears well organised and reliable - under the sign, "Titipan Barang".

53.     Official rate for luggage handling by porters at the airport is Rp1,500/item. (Approx Aus 35 cents.) The Chief of the Airport Authority requests that porters demanding more be reported to him. However, this is perhaps not the best time to be technically correct but mean spirited.

54.     Taxi voucher desk is on the right as you leave airport reception. It’s about 25 paces from the exit door. Look for the glass window, probably at the head of a long queue. See also the DRIVERS section below.
Advertised fares are:
- to Kuta Rp20,000, Legian Rp25,000, Seminyyak35,000, Oberoi 45,000, Kerobokan 50,000, Jimbaran 8,500, Four Seasons 50,000, Nusa Dua 15,000, Sanur 45,000, Denpasar 55,000.

55.     Cheaper VCD’s are mainly terrible copies or filmed from the theatre screen priced at Rp25,000. Originals (or copies of) priced at Rp54-75,000 are fairly good. Test them if you can – reject them if you can’t.

56.     DVD’s are a good buy. Rp50,000 at Ramayane and other large department stores. Rp60,000 around Kuta.

57.     DVD virus first appeared in ’04. Check by putting your DVD’s in a computer that has a good virus checker.
To open got to My Computer, right click on the DVD drive icon. Click Search. To All or part of the file name enter this string - *.hex;*.bin – Enter. (Note the semi-colon.) If there are any hex or bin files do not use that disc in a stand-alone DVD player or it will freeze up. It is OK to view on the computer which is not affected.
Similar virus’ have also been reported on photo CD’s.

58.     Music CD’s Rp60-80,000. Double albums Rp140,000. PC CD games Rp 35,000.

59.     MP3’s Rp35,000 with 200 tracks.

60.     PHOTOGRAPHY – Buy normal photographic films and have them processed in the normal way (negatives and prints) but ask for digitised processing as well. All your images are digitised on a CD ROM for $12 extra. "Who needs a digital camera?".
Frontech FOTO will develop digital images onto normal photographic paper. They are in Jl Raya Kuta.
Sanur Dewata Foto Digital Studio 60, in Jl Danau Buyan (just near the traffic lights), will download digital pictures onto CDs from your camera or from flash cards. Their charge is Rp70,000 per CD, with as many images as will fit onto the disc. Prints can also be made at prices up to Rp45,000 for the largest. There are a growing number of stores that will now do the same thing. Mid ’04 prices were Rp1600/postcard size print – about 30 cents Aust. To Rp9,700 (about $1.85 Aust) for a 10” x 8” enlargement. Your memory device goes into their computer and you select the shots you want.
Fuji Pantai Digital Foto Centre in Jl Legian 204, Kuta, is also recommended
Beware of virus infections in your memory devices. One outlet to pass on a virus is at the intersection of PoppiesII and Legian another the Kodak shop in front of the Dynasty. They were cheap and proved to be dirty too. Your download computer, with a good virus program, will quarantine the file and will clean it up.
If you want to do your own downloads laptop computers can be hired in Bali but the age and quality of the machines is not known in ’04. Try Dhidli at [email protected].
Buy the most memory that you can afford for your camera. Bali will bedazzle you with photo opportunities. Download onto CD’s which will hold about 60 pics, depending on the resolution you choose of course. Take your own top quality CD’s as some shops will download onto junk CD’s.
A wide range of memory devices can be downloaded at Legian Cyber in Sahadewa street Legian. Rp25,000 on their CD’s or Rp15,000 on your own. Internet facilities there also.
Get you good shots enlarged in Bali – it’s very cheap and the quality is quite reasonable.
Get an extra print as a present for your Balinese friends. See point 5 under ‘Remember – cultural things’ below.
If you are planning to go snorkelling get a disposable underwater camera. Cheaper in Oz ($14) than in Bali. Big-W, K-mart etc often have them on special, very cheap.

61.      Photography is commonly accepted in Bali, even in temples during most ceremonies. Some beach rats will ask you for payment after you’ve snapped them. Ask, "Bisa ambil foto?" (Can I take a Photo?) if in doubt.

62.     Camera repairs. Call Mr ‘Iwan’, (Ivan?) Ph (0361) 486 961 or 081 2397 7974. Address registered in Bali Traveller Guide. Terminal Tegal Sari 27, Jalan Imam Bonjol, Denpasar. In business for over 20 years.

63.     Common 35mm films are readily available throughout Bali but for a range of special and better quality films (up to professional), see Pak Leo at Bali Fotografi, Jl Raya Kuta 57X, Kuta. He’s a good man to talk to about any questions you may have on tropical photography. Ph 361-751 329 or 361-755 827.
Film is very slightly affected by airport x-rays.  You’re not likely to notice the changes unless you’re very fussy and are using higher than standard quality films. If you’re worried, then ask for it to be inspected manually rather than going through the scanner.
Try Kodak ‘Royal Gold’ film for denser colours in your landscapes. ISO 100 has very fine grain giving sharper negatives that results in better enlargements. It also comes in ISO 200 & 400. It’s a ‘top-of-the-range’ amateur’s film, and bit dearer than the very common Kodak Gold but you might appreciate the colours and quality on a special trip. Kodak Professional ProImage 100 is the next step up into a professional film, even dearer than Royal Gold and perhaps requiring more exposure accuracy than many amateurs will care to give it. Don’t waste your money on this film if you’re using a ‘pocket camera’ as it requires a reasonable quality SLR to show its capabilities.
AgfaColour HDC Plus Negative film is similar in quality to Kodak Royal Gold and comes in 100, 200 &400 ISO. AgfaColour Optima II Prestige Negative professional film (ISO 100,200 & 400) is about the best if you want big enlargements of your photos but like Kodak ProImage you need to take a little more care when using it. The prices of these films increase like the Kodak ones.
FujiColour Superia Reala is their top amateur film and recommended by many travellers as it has dense greens and browns making it ideal for portrait and landscape photography in Bali. Fujicolour Professional NPC is the next step up and is particularly good for portrait shots but like the other pro-grade films needs a bit more care with the camera work to show it’s value. Again, you’ll find price structures like the Kodak examples above.
If you are going to use films of above the normal standard it might be better to purchase them from a specialty phopographic shop at home before you go. They are likely to be fresher and have probably been stored in cool refrigerators. Films of these qualities, on the other hand, tend to sit on hot shop shelves for a long time in Bali – if indeed you can find them at all.
If you keep your film in the bar fridge in Bali be very careful to let it slowly come up to room temperature before you seal it up in your camera where condensation can do terrible things to both the film and the camera.
If you are looking for better than normal developing/printing go to ‘Bali Fotografi’ and ask for Pak Leo. He will do professional standard work for you. His shop is in Kuta opposite the Nova Supermarket. Any taxi driver worth his fare can take you there. He might also stock better quality films than the local street-side shops.
If you are interested in taking photos for slides (shown on a screen or wall using a projector) you will be getting very fine grain film with dense and brilliant colours. These slides can be scanned and converted to superb photos and web pages to stun your family and e-mail contacts – but the process is not cheap.

64.     Days with sea breezes are better as the tropical haze is blown away a bit. The light seems softer than in Aus. US, Europe, perhaps because of the usual fires, humidity etc and some people recommend film with saturated emulsion such as ‘Velvia’.

65.     APS films are commonly processed in Bali. Some shops do not make the index (contact) sheet of miniatures. Ask first. Look for the APS triangle/circle logo. Prices app 2/3 of Aus costs.

66.     A piece of advice I can offer is the use of those very small and cheap tripods with springy wire legs that will fit fairly comfortably into a 'bum bag' if you don't have a camera bag.
They can be screwed onto the bottom of most small cameras and the legs spread to rest the camera on a car bonnet or a wall or fencepost or up-turned box, anything that will keep the camera steady. (Do make sure that the car engine is turned off if you're using the bonnet, and that the kids are not about to jump in and have a fight.)
Adjust the bend of the legs to point the thing in the required direction. Use the delayed shutter release mode of the camera, you know, the one that lets you press the button and then gives you time to run around the front and get into the picture yourself. This way you take the shot without any risk of the camera shaking in your hands as you press the button. Without doubt this camera movement causes the ruination of most shots, and the new crop of small pocket cameras with zoom lenses do, of course, greatly emphasise the smallest of shakes.

67.     Digital photos can be processed in Bali, the number of shops offering the service is increasing. One well established shop is Legian Cyber. They are in Sahadewa Street. Also a cyber café/internet shop. Try Frontec Photo, Jl Raya Kuta N0 104 Blok D, Ph 751 222. Download your memory card to Cd - Rp50,000 on your own Cd or Rp 70,000 on a new CD. Prints Rp1800 each.

68.     COMPUTER SOFTWARE – See the shopping section in the Denpasar District lists below and the Legian/Seminyak section.

69.     Printing: business cards (incl. plastic), stickers, T-shirts. ‘Keyhole Print Shop’, Jl Padma, app 60 mts on right from Jl Legian. Ask for Tarka.
Also ‘Indographs’, graphic and art offset printing of all types.  Off Jl Legian near a leather shop called ‘Merinos’.

70.     Printing. Bags with corporate logos etc. Scale Grafika in Padma Street behind OKA Cargo. See Agus.

71.      .WEDDINGS. Weddings are popular in Bali and there are several companies specialising in arrangements. One to avoid is Silvies ‘baliwedding.com’. Do not confuse this company with Bali Weddings International, which is frequently recommended.  A Certificate of No Impediment is required from the Australian Consulate.
Check the Bali Romantic Weddings web site at http://romantic-weddings.com , E-mail [email protected] .

72.     Rama Shinta Weddings, Deden Kung and staff, has also been recommended.

73.     GETTING ABOUT. Taxis are very cheap, hiring a driver and car is also very cheap. The traffic in Bali has to be seen to be believed. I can NOT recommend driving yourself or riding yourself but if you’re determined or part of the invincible youth then hiring vehicles is quite easy if you have an international licence, A$15 plus passport photo. You can also get a temporary Bali licence in about 20 min at a local Polisi station. Cost Rp200,000.Make sure you get insurance when you hire and that your traveller’s insurance will also cover you. Try C V Jaya Mertha II, Ph 756 204, US$925 for a Suzuki Katana Jimny for 10 days. Be sure of the time for vehicle return and anything else that is ‘No worry Boss. She be OK’, and it is until you tryto deviate and then all hell breaks loose – and your wallet with it.  Wary hirers always take photos of themselves and the four sides of the vehicle at the front of the shop before they drive off. Make sure all dents and scratches are visible. Kijangs cost about Rp100,000 for a day, Jimny about Rp80,000.
Quote from the Bali Travel Forum -
If you have not been to Bali before (and even if you have) I would strongly recommend against driving yourself.
Traffic conditions and patterns are often described as 'chaotic' by first timers and, although they're not really if you are used to them, they are different.
Think of the poor driver who has to negotiate the apparent mayhem! He or she will not see anything of the sights, nor will whoever is trying to navigate through the one-way streets, the short cuts and maps that can only be described as just slightly related to the actual position and names of roads.
On top of this you might add insurance concerns even if you don't have a real accident. Others before you have lamented that they had not taken numerous photos of the hired vehicle (with the smiling salesman in each photo) before they even stepped into it to help prove on their return that those dents and scratches really were not their fault.
Breakdown scams are numerous, police checks at which you will feel obliged to buy tickets to the Policemans Ball (or else!), parking fees at tourist rates and fraud at the infrequent fuel pumps might be other worries.
Compare this with the cheapness and peace of mind of hiring a vehicle and driver on any street in the island almost. A driver and local guide all rolled into one. Hire for an 8 hour day should cost you no more than Rp300,000. Convert that into your home currency and see the value.

74.     Sports shoes are popular buys in Bali but many are very poor quality and, unless you’re looking for a cheap pair, caution is required. If you are in a position to compare various offerings try gripping the toe and heel and twist the sole. Better shoes will not twist very easily. Another test is to try pushing the heel (at the finger loop) in towards the sole at the instep. If it gives then the heel support is paper or cardboard rather the rigid plastic and the shoes are not genuine ones from a name brand – no matter what the words or symbols show.
 Don’t believe that well-known names in the shoe retail business will only sell the genuine article either!
Watch out for ‘Rebok’ brand and’ Niike’ or similar names.
Hand made to measure, leather shoes, are not as popular in the buying stakes but probably represent better value than sports shoes.  Guys can get shoes in common styles in black, brown, grey, green etc and for the ladies what better than a coloured leather coat or pants with an exactly matching pair of fashionable shoes. Take a picture of your favourite style or rely on the leather shops’ catalogues.

75.     BARGAINING.  An American tourist offers these hard-nosed suggestions about getting the best possible value for your money when bargaining in Bali.

FINDING OUT WHAT THINGS REALLY COST – or ‘The Impossible Dream.’

Most important; you've got to be willing to walk away. You'll never get the lowest price standing in one spot and discussing it. Nine times out of ten, the seller’s price will drop closer to your last offer if you walk away.

Method 1: Try and try again.

Pick something that is common throughout markets and set yourself a very low target price. Try to bargain for it. Fail? Raise your price a little and try somewhere else. Do it again, until someone agrees. It's good practice, but remember that if the seller accepts your offer convention dictates that you must buy at that price.

Method 2: Eavesdrop on other tourists.

Listen to them bargain, and find out what they paid. Often, the shopkeeper will sell you the same thing for the same price but try to go a bit lower. This really works best with two friends; it’s less effective but still possible with two strangers.

Method 3: Go on a day tour, and observe the hawkers at all the stops made on the tour.

You will find that these tour sellers are among the hardest on all of Bali (except perhaps those at Kintamani). Here's where you'll get the "Ten thousand! Ten thousand!" sarong price offers right off the bat. What they shout at you as you walk away, or the prices they quote while they're wedging their shoulder into your car door and preventing you from closing your door are often the lowest prices that the item can be had for anywhere.

Method 4: Go to a fixed price store (like Matahari in Kuta) and have a look around. Set your target for similar goods in the markets at 30-50% off of those prices. This is a way of at least getting within the ballpark range of a "real" price, especially if you have no idea whether something should cost Rp10,000 or 100,000.

Some things the vendor will nearly always do to unsettle you:
1) - Laugh outrageously at your starting price
2) - Invoke peer pressure, either by telling other shopkeepers what you've offered and having them laugh, or saying "but your friend paid . . ."
3) - Say "Ten thousand? No, this quality (picks up other object) ten thousand.” They'll always drag in other cheaper examples of what you're trying to buy, to try to make your intended purchase look like the higher quality version and worthy of the price they want.
4) - Never drop close to their lowest price until you start to walk away. When come back you can haggle some more from a new starting point.

Things you should always do:
1) - have a good idea of what an item should cost if it's a common item or  -  or what you're willing to pay if it's a harder-to-find item.
2) - Calculate a goal somewhere between 20 and 50% of the shopkeeper's starting price (if you have no idea what it costs).
3) - Start BELOW that price and come up only in small increments (like 5000, or even 1000 at a time, depending on the price).
4) - Allow yourself four or five rounds of negotiation.
5) - Say, "Ah, no thank you, too expensive.” Then WALK AWAY. If they're willing to keep going, they'll say "OK OK" and wave you back. Then they'll drop a little more, but not necessarily yet to the price you want. It can still go several rounds after walking away.

Things that are handy:
1) - Having exact change. If you're tired of the transaction and you know you're offering a fair price, you can take out your money and say "Yhis is all I have" or "Here, yes, 30,000" to speed the deal.
2) Keep a couple extra thousand on hand, to sweeten the deal if necessary. Do not show these to the vendor, or they'll try to incorporate them in the final price.

Things you should not do:
1) - Get angry or shout. It's just business, and the Balinese like to conduct it in a friendly, easygoing, "You funny! What a JOKE your price is!" sort of way.
2) - Say how much you paid for something. It will give away your knowledge of prices and what you're willing to pay.

     3) – Refuse to buy (or continue to try to bargain lower) when your last offer has been accepted.

Finally, keep the value of the money involved in some sort of perspective. If you find yourself refusing a deal because of a difference of a few hundred rupiah then stop and work out just how insignificant such a sum really is to you. Then stop and think of how valuable this sum is to the seller.

76.      

.

MONEY.   Yahoo has a great Currency converter with a graph of recent rates wich give you some indication of whether to jump in and change a lot straight away (if the trend is downwards) or change only what you need immediately and perhaps get a better rate tomorrow (rising graph). It will also allow you to convert rupiah back into your home currency so that you can answer the question, “How much did I pay for that?” It is at http://finance.yahoo.com/m3?u.

Carry your money in a ‘bum bag’ but keep it under your shirt if it contains a lot. Exposed bum bag straps can be easily cut and the offender away on the pillion of a passing motorbike before you can blink. (Before you condemn the Balinese for this sort of criminal activity just ask yourself if it could or couldn’t happen in your home town.) If you have large amounts keep it in several different places. I use a skin coloured cloth money pouch which hangs around my neck under the shirt as a less obvious and more secure device.

1. The local money is the Indonesian rupiah – (Rp.).
   * Coins are Rp1,000 – 500 – 100 – 50 and 25. Supermarkets use lollies as small changefor less than 25 rupiah.
   * Notes are Rp100,000 (Ask for these when changing money as they’re easy to count for you and not easy for the tricky money changers to mis-count.) - 50,000 – 20,000 – 10,000 – 5,000 (About A$1.00 / US$0.50.) – 1,000 – 500 – 100.
   * Take care that you don’t get Rp10,000 notes passed to you in the middle of a stack of Rp100,000 notes, or 5,000s in a stack of 50,000s and so on.
   * THE SAFEST MONEY CHANGERS ARE AT THE WARTELS (Government teklephoning shops) WHICH OFTEN HAVE AUTHORISED MONEY CHANGING OFFICES ALSO.  The changers will be PTBali Valas or Bali Masprint or something similar. Their rates are the same as PT Central. Most importantly they will change Travellers Cheques with a photo copy of your passport ID page. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ‘PT CENTRAL’ AGENCIES IN THE KODAK SHOPS (or in the larger Department stores) AS THEY NOW REQUIRE YOUR ORIGINAL PASSPORT TO CHANGE TRAVELLERS CHEQUES. I will not take my passport out of the hotel safe until I’m ready to go home – then I know I can get home without days of hassle. If your passport is stolen on the streets your holiday will be ruined and it will take days to get it replaced.
   * Take care also if you’re tempted to do business with any moneychanger who is offering a better than usual exchange rate. The only way he will make up the difference between the official rate (at which they all buy their money) and the higher rate that he is offering is to cheat you.
   If there is a LEGITIMATE Security Guard in the shop it may be better than some of the others.
   * Take care also that NO-ONE touches the money after you have counted it, even to simply to pick it up from the table and pass it to you. If this happens you should count it again - and I’ll bet you’re short!  If you’re quick enough you might find the missing notes on the floor behind the desk, or remember hearing the drawer closing over them as they were dropped over the edge of the desk.
   * Don’t believe the totals which might appear on anyones calculator but your own and then only after YOU have entered the numbers.
   The new Rp100,000 notes are made of plastic using established Australian technology.
   As forgeries seem to abound in Indonesia moneychangers are reluctant to change different sorts of tender at different times. The most recent concern was over Travellers cheques (June ’02) and as a consequence an original Passport was required (rather than the much safer photocopy) for a while. Cash notes are always suspect unless they is in ‘as-new’ condition. The best bet is not to rely on only one form of money.
   The small notes in local rupiah are very old and very sick looking, and certainly encourage hand disinfecting after handling, but they are essential for things like local bemo fares where the collectors never seems to have any change at all.
   The banks and often traders will not accept dirty or damaged notes – or at least say they won’t.  This will surprise you when you see the quality of the local notes that they regularly handle – but it’s all to do with the regular attempts at passing forged, high-value, foreign currency. The latest forgeries were American $100 bills dated 1996 and it was impossible to change them anywhere in Indonesia, even the banks played safe and would not touch them. This scare seems to have passed now (October 2002) but the risk remains for any notes that appear to have been ‘roughed up’ to remove their new appearance.
   Occasionally, when someone has passed a forged or stolen travellers Cheque, and the money changer has been left ‘holding the empty bag’, the word gets around the money changers and for a while they won’t change that particular type of cheque. Early in ’03 Thomas Cook TC’s were being refused but Amex has had its turn also.
   If you would like to see pictures of the Rupiah notes (face and reverse sides) go to www.balimic.tripod.com/bali/id16.html . You’ll find a lot of other good info there too, especially clear photos of many popular hotels in Bali.
2. South African currency (ZAR) is one of the very few world currencies that cannot be changed in Bali. Best to convert to US$ TCs or notes, or Aus$ or British pounds – even Euros - before you leave.
3. Don’t purchase rupiah at you local home bank, as your exchange rate will be terrible. Wait until you get to Bali. If you intend to take cash then take your own currency. You can change virtually any currency to rupiah in Bali. If in doubt simply post the question on the Bali Travel Forum, http://www.balitravelforum.com/.  Changing it into something else only loses a bit each time. You can change just about any world currency into rupiahs in Bali.
4. When you arrive at the airport change about A$20 with the moneychangers there. You will find them after the Immigration check, along the wall of the baggage collection area facing the carousels, before you get to the Customs area. Their rates are not the best but this will be enough to pay for a taxi to your hotel, buy a Bintang and a bottle of water to clean your teeth.
5. Money exchange is both an art and a con in Bali. You can exchange virtually any world currency via cash (large denomination, new notes are best – marked or damaged notes may be rejected – for US travellers the best rate is for pristine $100 bills but not ones dated 1996 just left of center at the bottom of the face side), or traveller’s cheques (the rate will be less than for cash, but insignificantly so) and at the growing number of ATM’s. The maximum amount that can be withdrawn at ATM’s (usually Rp1.25K if you hit the ‘Other Amount’ key on those machines which have it) makes them a bit dearer due to the multiple user fee applied by most banks, commonly $4-5 per transaction. Some stores also add a surcharge to the bill if you pay with a credit card. Some ATM’s have been known to accept your transaction but not deliver the money. Go to a bank straight away if this happens.
6. Don’t take your passport onto the street to change Travellers Cheques. Use a photocopy of the first (identification) page for this. If you find an occasional moneychanger who won’t accept your photocopy then leave and go to the next one who won’t be far away. Make at least one copy for each week that you will be in Bali as paper deteriorates rapidly in the humidity.
7. Beware of bag snatchers on motorbike pillions. Carry your bag on the side away from the roadway. Don’t carry a lot of money in your bag, and never your passport. Use a body belt or chest bag strung around your neck. Don’t leave your bags in a vehicle unless you are very sure that the driver is reliable and that the vehicle can be securely locked – not just locked. To have your bags stolen with all of your documentation in them must be a traveller’s greatest nightmare, and it happens not only in Bali but in Sydney and London and New York and - - - - .
8. Hotels generally have the poorest exchange rates on the whole island. The best rates are in the southern tourist areas.
9. A safe place to exchange cash is at ‘PT Central’ on Bemo Corner near Kuta Square or at any of their agencies in Kodak shops (which are very common in the south and southeast tourist areas) and at the larger department stores. They will not now, however, change TC’s without seeing you real passport and it is highly recommended that you DO NOT take your passport onto the street for any reason. Use a government Wartel (phone shop) to change TC’s. Their rates are as good as PT abd they are as honest. You will get a printed receipt from the computerised service.!
   For a map showing the locations of Pt Central agencies go to http://www.central-kuta.com/location.html.
10. Some ‘wartels’ (post and phone shops) are also bank agencies. As such they are also reliable money changers and recommended for changing travellers cheques. There are many Wartels in districts all over Bali.
11. There are honest street changers I am told, who offer slightly higher rates, but beware and be warned – many, if not most, will not only try to cheat you but will succeed! Even career bank tellers report that they have been done over! These street moneychangers are the experts in all of the tricks ever dreamed up anywhere in the world, including re-wired calculators and super slippery fingers. You are just the most recent in a very long line of suckers. Dodgy money changing is their life and you are their lifeblood. Always count your money without being distracted by an accomplice at your shoulder and always be the last to touch the money. If someone else picks it up, even if only to hand it to you, then sit down and count it again! Chances are you will be amazed. A neat reversal of this con is to give you the right amount but when you hand over your 4 x $50 bills (which you’ve been smart enough to hang on to tightly until this time) he will find that you’re one short and you’ve only given him three. The other one has been dropped on the floor at his feet or into his open money drawer which he smoothly closes wih his thighs as he stands up.
12. Watch out for the ‘power of 10’ scam. It relies on your confusion about so many zeros in the sums. You wind up getting only a tenth of the correct amount when a zero falls off the end of the total, or you get 5,000 Rp notes instead of 50,000Rp or 1,000’s instead of 10,000’s.
13. If you need to send money to Bali it can be an expensive exercise if done on a regular basis with most banks charging A$25 per transfer. Telegraphic transfers attract a better exchange rate than a bank draft. A better way might be a second credit card with separate PIN (risky and app $5 per withdrawal) or best of all a separate savings account with a single card (which you send to your Bali friend) and into which you deposit a known amount.
14. KNOWN CROOK MONEY CHANGERS.  Immediately suspect any street changer who offers a better exchange rate than the really authorised changers such as the local Wartel (the government telephoning shops), PT Central, generally found in supermarkets and Kodak shops. Be aware that these slick merchants will move from location to location on a regular basis as their dishonesty becomes known locally.
    * Beware of the moneychangers in Rose Tailor, opposite the Bali Aussie. A well documented rip-off centre. All of the tricks in the book will be tried and if you pick them all the supply of money will be ‘all gone’ and you’ll be intimidated and shown the door. If you manage to change some money you’ll know you’ve been cheated but you wont know how.
    * Avoid the moneychangers at – Jl Dhyana near Bestest Café and the one across the street in a post office type shop also. Stick with the Kodak guys further towards the beach.
    * Also avoid the moneychangers near the Aston Bali Hotel. Great dropper of money into his lap, claims it is ‘commission’ if caught even though his sign clearly claims ‘No Commis.’.
    * On Legian Street, in the alley between Mammas German Restaurant and the Fuji Film shop. A first class note shuffler.
    * Opposite the Restu in Legian. Small notes (Rp5,000) in the middle of a stack of Rp50,000’s.
    * Not quite a crook moneychanger but in the Bintang store in Legian do your own adding up to arrive at your total bill and calculate and check your change carefully unless you can afford to lose $10 in a 100.
    * The changer next to Billy’s Bar on Jl Sahadewa is ‘a scumbag’.
    * In Legian avoid the moneychanger opposite the Puri Raja in Jl Padma Utara. He is in the centre one of three small shops, right in the back.
    * Kids Zone (a children’s clothing shop near Timezone and Mataharis) in Legian and also a changer just opposite Kids Zone in Jl Legian.
    * A deadly variation on the game of chance is played by a moneychanger on Legian street opposite the end of Poppies LaneI. He will try to cheat you in the usual way and if you catch him he will, begrudgingly, give you back your $100 (or whatever) bills. You will stomp out in high dugeon, not realising that he has NOT given you back YOUR notes, but has given you at least one quite good forgery. If you go back to complain later he will argue that you must have got them somewhere else – and how con you convincingly argue otherwise?
    * On Melasti Street near Top Ten and Leong DVD is a unique cheat who actually keeps a written record of how much he’s cheated you. If you get done for Rp300,000 and try to say it was Rp500,000 he will pull out his book and correct you. He will also cheat you again when he gives you the refund!!
    * On the corner of Poppies 2 and Jl Legian, at the back of a photo printing shop.
15. * On Jl Melasti about 30 paces from Jl Legian on the corner of a narrow lane there is an advertisement for ‘no commis’ and very good rates. If something appears too good to be true you can bet that it’s not – and particularly if you choose to dice with this money changer you’ll learn that the hard way.
16. If you use plastic Credit Cards for purchases do not let it out of your sight or you risk having it swiped a second time onto an open account slip, and personally destroy the carbon copy of the impression or watch it done in front of you. Do not trust it being tossed into the waste paper basket. Fearful stories abound in S E Asia of credit card scams.  Some banks will set up a traveller’s account with a specific and limited sum of money available in it. If the card is then stolen or scammed the losses are minimised.  A number of single-use cards can also be made, each with a different account number and even smaller maximum withdrawal sums.  The Master Card version is called ‘Shop Safe’ and can be accessed from their web site.  http://www.mbnashopsafe.com/ and follow the prompts. Some travellers set up a new card account and put in it only the amount of money they intend to spend during the holiday. If this card is used fraudulently the losses are not as bad as they would be if all of your savings were open to the card scammers.
17. Watch out for ATM’s which hold onto your card until the very last minute and then require a key entry to release it. It is very easy to forget it while you’re counting your money and leave it in the machine for the next customer to use without the need for your PIN to be re-entered.
18. ATM rates are not quite as good as Wartels and Pt Central offers, maybe Rp 100 less per dollar and there is a home bank fee of about A$5 for every withdrawal to be reckoned with also.
19. Some stores add a surcharge when items are paid for with credit cards.
20. If you are heading north (or east or west) be aware that the best exchange rates are offered in the southern tourist areas and get worse as you go out, even only as far as Ubud but certainly Bedugul and beyond.
21. Keep Rp100,000 in local money for your departure tax to be paid at the airport. Children occupying a seat are required to pay. This raises around Rp 400 billion each year – all of which goes to the Indonesian Government in Java – none at all for Bali improvements.
    Make sure you don’t loose the white immigration slip you get when you arrive. Keep it with your passport and keep that in your hotel safe at all times.
    You don’t need to take your passport onto the street for anything, including changing traveller’s cheques that you can do with a photocopy of the first ID page.
    Also don’t forget to confirm your departure with the airline as required, and get to the airport with a couple of hours to spare to ensure you get your baggage checked in and seat allocation completed in time. If you’re flying Garuda you can do your check-in and get your boarding pass (thus ensuring that you don’t get ‘bumped off’ the flight because of overbookings) by going to their offices the day before your flight. They can be found in Denpasar and at the Hotel Sanur Beach or the Kuta Paradiso. Also, if you do this ‘City Check In’ you wont be required at the airport until an hour before your flight.
22. When bargaining for goods keep a balanced perspective on what you are bargaining over. An extra Rp1,000 or Rp 5,000 is really just small change in your home currency. Don’t risk high blood pressure to beat the last cent or pfennig out of someone who is just trying to make a living after all. Late in ’02 a kilo of rice cost about Rp3,000. This would be enough to feed an extended family for a day – that is about 60 cents Oz or 30 cents US. You wont miss this much but it is enough to keep them alive. Please think about it!
    A Shoppers Aid or bargaining Cheat Sheet covering many currency exchange rates is available at www.geocities.com/filo_1au/CheatSheet.html.
23. TIPPING. Balinese do not generally expect tips but generosity is appreciated. It is sometimes difficult to tip an individual person, in a restaurant for example, as a tip included in the bill often simply goes into the open-ended bucket along with the “Service Charge” that you’ll find on almost every bill. If you want to single out and show appreciation to a particular waiter then ask them to come back after the bill has been quite finalised, then give them something, ‘For you’.  On the other hand it’s very easy to round up the fare to the next 1000 or 5000 rupiah and thereby give a taxi driver a reward for his (otherwise very cheap) services.
    Monetary donations to families are usually spent on family priorities rather than things that might be special to the individual you wished to reward.
    Women will inevitably spend extra money or their families rather than on themselves, which is why some practical gifts of appreciation, or 'oleh olehs' (gifts), become very personal and are appreciated so much.
    A well known ex-pat who admits to being generous but claims to be rewarded for it, recommends as follows – food and drink, 15% of pre tax bill; cabs – 10%; hotel staff Rp15,000; other services 10% if you’re happy with the service.
24. If you have friends in Bali and you would like to provide some financial help to them between visits, but still be in control, set up a low fee or free account with your bank or credit union with an ATM Cashcard (not a Credit Card). Give your friends in Bali the card and the PIN number. Make sure that they are aware of the need to keep the card and the number in different (secure) places. If they need money or you want to give them some simply deposit it in the account at home and they can draw it at any of the many ATM’s in Bali.
    A more expensive alternative and not so convenient is Western Union or Moneygram. Western Union cash must be picked up from a bank and Moneygram has only a few offices in the southern tourist area of Bali.
    DON”T SEND MONEY THROUGH THE POST! It will almost certainly be ‘lost’.
25. School fees are expensive by the standards we normally associate with Bali costs. This is largely because the Government does not embrace the concept of free and universal education. The charges are most crippling for orphanages. Childrens education can be sponsored by care agencies for about Aus$70/year. This includes fees, part equipment costs, a pair of those precious uniforms (I’m sure you will never forget the first time you see a group of Balinese children going to or returning home from school.), a bag for books and a pair of special school shoes. Gifts of books and magazines that could be educational are welcomed at most schools or E-mail Gaye at [email protected] and she will collect them from your hotel. See ‘Charities’ also.
26. Karma Budaya Foundation is a charitable group that teaches English free to Balinese children and adults in villages. They welcom gifts of suitable books with pictures, atlases, gardening magazines, hobby, drawing and colouring books. Contact Ida Bagus (Gussy) Mantra, [email protected].

 

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REMEMBER – Cultural things.

1. Balinese names. There are 4 castes within Balinese society. The most common of these by far, and therefore the group of people that the tourist will interact with most often, is the Sundra caste. Note that these people are basically not priests, nobles nor court servants who make up the other 3 castes: they are not ‘untouchable’ as can be found in other cultures. The Sundra generally name their children in a fairly strict rotation of only four names regardless of the childs sex. The first child is Wayan (meaning ‘oldest’) Pron ‘Why-ahn. – Second is Made (‘between’ or ‘centre’) Pron. ‘Mah-day’, not ‘Mar-dee’. – Third is Nyoman (‘smallest’) Prom. Nee-yoh-Mahn, ‘Nee’ & ‘Yoh’ blend together in short sound – ‘Nyoh-Mahn’, not ‘Norman’ but close to it. – Fourth is Ketut (meaning ‘tail’) Pron. ‘K-Toot’ as in book, not as in a trumpet’s toot. After 4 they commonly go back to Wayan and start over again. Alternatives occasionally used are Putu or Gede (pron almost as G’day) for the first-born and Nengah for the second-born.
   I (‘eye’) Wayan – signifies male. Ni (‘knee’) Wayan – signifies female if this is significant on the occasion.
   It’s always a hit to work out what your name would be if you were Balinese and introduce yourself by that name.
   If you stand on the beach and yell out, “Ayo Wayan!” at the top of your voice, do not be surprised at the number of locals who will turn and say “Ayo?”
2. The small offerings in little square, woven palm leaf containers that you will find by all the shops and gates and temples, both big and small, are called ‘Banten’. They are offerings to both the gods and the spirits for personal health, protection and good luck as well as being a mark of respect. It is considered to be very rude if you step on these, even accidentally. Make an effort to re-arrange it if you do and offer a small apology to someone nearby.
3. Don’t touch anyone on the head. The head is the sacred receptacle of the spirit. The feet by contrast are the least respected area and it is considered quite rude to show someone the soles of your feet. This is probably why locals might be offended if you show the bottom of your shoes to their offerings on the street. (See above note.)
4. Don’t use the left hand to pass/pay/etc. It is the toilet hand and seen as unclean.
5. Don’t point or beckon with the forefinger or fold your arms when talking to someone.
6. Remove your shoes when invited into a Balinese home, or at least go through the motions of doing so until your host indicated that it will be OK to keep them on, as will most often happen to a tourist.
7. Balinese welcome modest dressing by tourists when outside of the clear tourist areas, and ritual dressing with sashes and sarongs is required in most temples. These items of apparel can be purchased easily, or can be hired at the temple.
8. If you are involved in a confrontation try not to lose your temper or even speak loudly. Polite responses are seen as a sign of good manners, which often becomes translated into right being on your side. This is particulary important when dealing with officials such as at Immigration, Customs, Security or ‘Polisi’.
9. Nyepi Day is a religious/culturay observance which takes place every 210 days, which is a Balinese year. It is a day of silence and inactivity, often enforced by the village (Banjar) police or the state ‘Polisi’. Even the airport shuts down, except for emergencies and for re-fueling through flights, although passengers are not allowed to alight. At night no lights are to be shown anywhere and no sounds may be made. The belief is that evil spirits will not be able to find a dark and silent island, and those that are there will leave. On the night after Nyepi a procession of large figures are paraded through the streets of the towns and villages. This is the parade of the ‘Ogoh-ogoh’. It is a spectacular reward for tourists who have been confined to their hotels for a day but can now see the fun from a street anywhere near their hotels. Driving will be virtually impossible on any road both before and during the parades.
10. Odalan Ceremonies are the anniversaries of individual temples. Given the thousands of temples in Bali, and their 210 day year, it is easy to find a handy temple having its Odalan ceremony. Odalan is the time when the Gods return to the temple to be entertained by the villagers. Many of the ceremomies go on for two or three days and they are as entertaining for visitors of the tourist kind as for the Godly kind. If you can refer to a Balinese calender, where all of these ceremonies are noted, you will find some special ones with a red circle around the date. These are the ceremonies that coincide with the full moon and are especially important and spectacular: well worth going out of your way to visit. Visitors are welcome to participate but dress is important, Balinese dress is appreciated even if only in the form of a temple sash.
11. ‘Oleh-oleh’ are small gifts given when you return from a journey, something you might take for a friend when you return to Bali.
    A gift given to your host for their hospitality, or for a friend for kindness or simply as something you would like to do is ‘Kado’ or ‘Pemberian’.
    It may not be a good idea to give out presents to every child that you meet as this could set up an expectation that all that visitors are good for is handouts. If in doubt ask the parents first. (Think of yourself as a parent in similar circumstances – ‘What is that stranger giving my children?’)
    Large handouts of sweets may not be in the best interests of children’s health.
    I really can’t recommend the unbelievable suggestion I recently read that tourists drive along the streets and throw out sweets to children from the moving car. Apart from the dangers it seems to be a waste of a golden opportunity to talk to them.
    Children love soap bubbles, readily available in little bottles with blowing rings attached under the lids, from party suppy stores. Also now available at Mataharis and other supermarkets in Bali. Keep one in your pocket and casually blow bubbles in the street when you come across some kids. You won’t believe how big a hit you are – but have a good supply if you’re going to start giving them away.
    Families welcome bottled water dispenser (20-litre size) with tap.
    Women like bright fabrics of western pattern. 1.5m. for kebayas (upper garment). Rp15,000 for tailor to sew.
    Even though western style goods are available in Bali they are not often bought by the Balinese for themselves, – the younger generation excepted perhaps, so don’t shy away from purchasing locally.
    FOODS: In the country villages you could accompany your friends/host on a market-shopping trip and pay for some or all of the purchases that they select.
    Basic foodstuffs like rice, sugar, tea or local coffee, cooking oils, beef/chicken/pork, milk powder, eggs, corn, paraffin (kerosene) for cooking stoves, iodised salt, pepper, instant noodles, fruits and vegetables might be long remembered.
    A family of 2 adults and two young children will consume 30 kg of rice (with other things such as meat, vegetables, fruit etc) in 1 month.
    Foodstuffs are a good option if you believe that a family might be hungry and that cash would be used for some other non-nutritious purpose.
    If you feel confident to judge a family’s health needs then gifts of vitamins, natural supplements and pre-natal calcium and vitamin products could be considered.
    Bundles of incense sticks, even though they can buy these themselves, seem to be a welcomed mark of respect to their religion when presented as ‘oleh-oleh’.
    A small bag of lollies (sweets) to share around at unexpected times (or a big bag on the beach – or a bag full of small bags) is a great treat.
    For children small dolls or miniature cars and motorbikes are welcomed, as toys are not high on the Balinese shopping priorities. Little kangaroos and koalas with clothing clips. Badges and stickers, address books and autograph books, drink holders, magnets. Super bouncing balls in 6-packs in the party section of your local supermarket.
    Lipsticks, nail polishes, skin creams – even the unused remnants of your own supply when you leave at the end of your holiday.
    Cheap bangles in bright colours. Small toy cars. Sun visors in preference to caps. Water pistols. Hand-held maze games with little ball bearings in them that you have to roll into holes.
    Colouring books and pencils, particularly with animal shape erasers on the end. Hair bands and clips. Lollies and chips from the local supermarkets. McDonalds toys. Tennis balls. Plastic whistles. Baloons, particularly if they blow up to animal shapes rather than just round.
    Stickers and transfers. Coloured lip salves that youngsters use to paint stripes and flowers on their cheeks. Face paints and brushes.
    Warm clothes (old jeans and jumpers) for people living in the cold central highlands particularly.
    Best of all - photos of themselves, with or without you, enlarged at the nearby Kodak shop (very cheap in Bali) and put in a frame for them. Perhaps an extra one of them with you, for their parents/children/friends.
    Picture books. School writing books, lined or graph and blank. Text books and old novels in English are fine, particularly if there are pictures that relate to the text. Try your local Op Shop where you might get a dozen for $2 or even a number for free if they know you’re giving them to a school or village library in Bali.
    Frozen beef.
    Balinese women particularly love to get your old bras as they are beyond the means of most family budgets to buy new. Take up a collection of them at the office and donate to a worthy cause.
    Paper hats, masks, Indian headdress (with feathers). Sheets of stickers for school books and other prize possessions.
    Sheets and towels.
    Odd kitchen utensils – big spoons, egg flips etc. Plastic containers with good seals for storing rice, meats etc. Pots and saucepans, frypans, baking dishes, colanders, strainers, fine mesh skimmers, ladles and big serving spoons, tongs, meat tenderisers, wooden spoons, mops and brooms, dustpans, food processers, mixers/beaters/whisks/ rice cookers (buy locally), cutlery, crockery, glasses, mugs and cups, teapots, kettles (open fire and electric, cleaning equipment,
    Bags of mixed lollies (candy). Tubs of icecream and a stack of plastic spoons.
    A big bag of fruit.  Most families grow some fruit and veg but can’t grow every thing, or every variety, so fruit is always welcome particularly so if you know what they don’t grow themselves. Similarly tea, coffeee, sugar and/or rice are always welcome.
    A cheap or disposable camera. Bought Duty Free it’s not such a great expense.
    Electric fans are fairly cheap to by in Bali. Check the family needs first.  An old radio/cassette tape player.  The men particularly are often chess fanatics so a chess set and board will elevate his standing amongst his friends.
    Frisbies for the beach. Beach tennis bats and tennis balls, soccer balls (particularly miniature balls for the younger children) and even Aussie rules footballs (again smaller sizes for children). Balls that have super bounces, particularly if they are clear with animal/bird images in the middle of the ball.
    All sorts of school supplies in any quantity. School fees are between Rp30,000 and 45,000 per month per child. Uniforms and materials are on top of this as are fees for ceremonies. It is common to see children going into schools on Saturdays armed with whiskbrooms instead of books. They are expected to clean the buildings. There are no government concessions of any sort for education (even for the children in orphanages) in Indonesia. Wax crayons, Textas (felt-tip pens) and coloured chalks. One traveller regularly collects pens, pencils rulers etc from polling booths after elections for donating to orphanages and schools. Get approval from the electoral office beforehand, in writing if possible. Many regular travellers sponsor a child’s education as an on-going gift to a Balinese family or to an orphanage child. Fees are about Aus$100/year for primary education, doubling for secondary school and even more if a student proceeds to senior secondary.
    Indo-English dictionary.
    Sales brochures for cars (particularly for small 4-WD’s like their own ‘Kijangs’) and motorbikes with lots of pictures – and your home prices so they can ‘Oooh’ and ‘Ahhhh’!.
    Packs of Disney cards. Kids sun glasses, TeleTubbie dolls ***. Key rings with a flavour of you own country.
    Beads and string for bracelets. Skipping ropes. A$ or Legal size paper, envelopes of all sizes, sticky tape, pens and highlighters, calculators, computer software, glue sticks, ‘Post it’ sticky notes, stamps and stamp pad, clip boards, manila folders, staplers and staples, photo albums, plastic envelopes, rubber bands,
    You can take English language schoolbooks and educational magazines for the free English teaching program run in the smallest Bali villages. Gaye will pick them up from your hotel. Ph 758 737 or you can drop them off at her shop called ‘Eclipse’ on the right side in the Kuta markets as you walk through to the beach.
    If you’re good at tieing little animals and stuff with those long thin balloons you will be an instant hit in Bali – but make sure that you can tie them fast and take an enormous supply.
    FOR SCHOOLS – The usual school supplies of pens, pencils, erasers pads, books and so on are always welcome because they are always being used. Buy them cheaply in Bali to save on your freight weight and to give the students the size and style of materials that they are familiar with. Coloured pencils are sometimes  seen as an extravagance  as there is not the money to replace them when they are worn out. Don’t forget the teachers who work under similar handicaps tp the pupils. Red and greem pens as well as black and blue. Stamps, stamp pads and replenishment inks. Chalk, good quality with stronk colours not the wishy washy sort. Dustless chalk. Blackboard erasers. Blackboard paint and a good brush. Books about your home flora and fauna. Illustrated books with simple English text. Pencil sharpeners, particularly the good type rotary ones that are screwed to the wall or door frame. Coloured crayons. Rulers, setsquares and French curves, lettering templates in a variety of sizes. If you really want to make a lasting impression offere to fund playground facilities such as paving bricks to eliminate the rainy season mud and the dry season dust. Sporting goods are always welcome. Soccer is a passion in Bali, as is chess.
    FOR BABIES – Money is always welcome and considered not only lucky but is also essential for the 3-month and 6-month ceremonies. It would be seen as good luck if the first thing you did was to put a note in the baby’s hand. (Much like the custom of tapping all the goods in a market stall with the money from the first sale of the day.) It will also be especially valued if crisp and new notes, are put into a new, sealed envelope containing a nice ‘congratulations’ or ‘baby’ card and which is especially decorated to honour the occasion. 
    Traditionally within Bali a package is put together for a new Baby. In a woven basket there will be a new set of clothes, soap, powder etc, and for the parents some rice, sugar and coffee. This helps to feed the visitors who will come to see the baby and who must be offered food and drink.
    Hand drawn flowers or toys done with coloured pens and glue sprinkled with glitter will appeal to the Balinese love of handcrafted things.
    Grow suits, such as Bonds, are not used by the Balinese.
    A toy (stuffed) or mobile will be appreciated, as the usually scarce monetary resources would not be spent on such ‘luxuries’. If it’s been used that’s OK – wash it in your machine with a dose of antiseptic before you take it.
    Mittens and bootees, in cotton, will be used. A shawl or jacket in crochet, particularly if you can make it yourself, will become a family heirloom. Formula milk powder (buy in Bali) baby powder, heat rash cream, nappy rash cream.
    Used toys scrounged from friends and neighbours at home will be welcome.  Soccer balls (they’re soccer mad in Bali) volleyballs and nets, table tennis gear, exercise mats, running shoes for boys and girls, tennis racquets and balls.
    First Aid stuff such as antiseptic cream, sticking plasters, cotton balls, Detol, bandages, tweezers, Panadol/aspirin, eye wash cups, aloe vera gel, cotton sheets,
    Hair brushes and combs (clean with antiseptic solutions before taking them if they have been used), towels, face washers, sheets, pillow cases, hairclips, electric iron, fans, talc powder, shampoo and soaps, hair clips and ribbons,
    Jigsaw puzzles and other table-top board games, creative toys such as Lego, sewing kits, educational posters such as world maps or maps of Asia, posters of places people of different cultures, the human body, musical instrument posters, portable tape players., pop star posters,
    Take your old and no-longer-favourite music cassettes. If you find a nice driver he will probably have a player in his vehicle and will welcome your old tapes as a relief (?) from the ever-present gamelan orchestra.
    PAPER for gift wrapping, and stationery, from Garuda Wisnu, Jl Teuku Umar almost into Denpassar on the left coming from Kuta about 1 km past Hero’s and Libby supermarkets. Set back a bit off the road. Old building reflects the long existence of the business.
    Also Inti Grafika, also Teuku Umar. Ph 231 552 and the Bintang Supermarket in Seminyak.
12. ART. Art is now an inseparable part of the Balinese web of daily life. Balinese art can be seen in painting, carving – both stone and wood – writing and the decoration of temples particularly.
    This present flourish of creativity was not always in evidence however. Historically, Balinese art was simply a means of unremarkably producing religious objects and a means of covering the surfaces of dull royal buildings to distinguish them from dull civic buildings. Around 1300 AD the influence of the Indian Majapahit rulers in Java began a change in Bali which introduced richness to the colour palate and to the detail of new works that began to be recognised for their artistic qualities as well as their utilitarian functions. Paintings of the early 1900’s were still fairly utilitarian, as in the painting of everyday objects and wooden statues relating to the religion and mythology rather than painting as decorative and reinforcing art. In the utilitarian era there were long paintings like scrolls which were used to define the roof eaves of shrines and temples, large rectangular paintings used mainly as hangings to cover unadorned walls and painted calendars of the Balinese year highlighting the favoured days for various events of daily life. These were paintings of stories associated with religious or regal themes and lacked any vital spark of individual creative freshness. The format of work in this era was a confining one known today as the wayang style, characterised by a restricted cast of characters portrayed in bright colours, halfway between full frontal and side views of the smiling faces for the ‘good guys’ and darker colours and animalistic features for the darker forces. The entire canvas surface is covered, with even the plain coloured areas decorated with a minute repeated pattern. The colours were limited to red, yellow, ochre, brown and black and white. The paintings usually told traditional stories with several episodes of the story depicted on the one canvas. These paintings were almost mass produced with a master outlining the whole work and several apprentices filling in the necessary detail and colour, a scheme of production which still happens today in many areas.
    In the 1930’s a number of European artists ‘found’ Bali and began to influence the work of younger painters who wanted to break out of the restrictive mould then in force and create their own work. Helping the emergence of the new order was the lack of work available from rulers impoverished by conflict and from temple guardians at the time. Prominent amongst the newly arrived artists were Walter Spies (still renowned today) and Rudolf Bonnet. Their introduction to the island artists of western materials (such as pads of paper, crayons and inks and picture frames) and the western style of painting directly with colours rather than colouring in an outlined drawing fostered the acceptance of Balinese artists’ works in Europe. The sales and commissions of course made the artists and their works more acceptable in Bali also.
    A now traditional form of this new painting in Bali (amongst many styles) is the work of the Batuan School. This form is easily recognised as it inevitably depicts all of the events of a day in the life of a person, the spiritual, the animal and the mundane, on a single canvas. Good and evil, common themes in Balinese culture, are often found within the work. On a larger scale the entire activities of the whole village will be arranged into a single scene. If the artist wanted to record the events of the whole universe, the only requirement would be a larger canvas! The Batuan style gives a lot of painting for your dollar.
    Following the occupation by the Dutch, the conflict of the Second World War, the Japanese and then the Indonesian revolution which led to independence, creative art withered. Copying of recognised works became rife and world interest waned as the vital spark of creativity within the Balinese artists waned. In the late 1950’s new young artists emerged. Perhaps lacking the experience and skills of the previous schools their work took on a simpler, broad brush approach. Colours were vibrant and contrasting compared with the subtle tones of before, and hard edge outlines were common. Arie Schmidt was a European painter who rose to assume the role of mentor to this Young Artists School as it became known. Schmidt taught the new techniques but made the artists find their own locally inspired themes and subjects giving rise to great diversity and renewed enthusiasm.
    * Art tutoring c/- Ramoto’s Gallery, Kutuh, UBUD. [email protected] . Tutor is a graduate from Oz. Live models. Best to be early or the locals will take the best views.
    * ART SHOPPERS looking for art materials will be amazed at the range and prices at Duta Warna, Jl Diponegoro 206A, Denpasar. The staff are knowledgeable but you will need to make a little allowance for their stilted English.
13. WORLD HERITAGE SITES.
    Bali has nominated four World Heritage Sites that are a ‘must visit’ before they are over-run and over-commercialised.
    * The Taman Ayun Temple. A classic water-temple and moat in Mengwi.
    * The Pakerisan River Basin in the Gianyar Regency (running north-south around the town of Gianyar just east of Ubud). Scenic and archaeological sites of pre-historic and pre-Majaphit sites that are significant in the early Balinese Hindu and Buddhist history.
    * The rice paddy fields at Jatiluwih Village in the district of Tabanan which is west by north west of Denpasar. It is the oldest and most complex Subak terracing system.
    * The Bali Barat National Park in the north west corner of Bali was nominated for inclusion but has not been selected. (’04)..
     CHARITIES and ORPHANAGES -
    *  Our own favourite is the Orphanage at Tuka, a small village about 3 Km north off the road to Tanah Lot temple and about 8-10 kilometres north west of Denpasar. Their address is Panti Asuhan Sidi Asthu, Jl Raya Tuka, Banjar Dalung, which any reasonable driver will find. The phone is (0361) 229-582 and it is a good idea to phone ahead of your visit.  The best visiting times are Sunday after 9 am or weekdays after 3 when school is over and the afternoon rest period is done. We feel deeply about the situation of these children who simply do not exist as far as the government is concerned. We have been there and memories still come back every time we see our own children and grandchildren. For information go to http://www.geocities.com/filo_1au/TukaOrphanage.html where you’ll find directions and info on other orphanages. For the story of our visit go to http://www.geocities.com/filo_1au/Day15.html . A definitive page listing Indonesian Orphanages, although without any helpful details, can be found at www.yakee.de/orphanage/Bali-Orphanage.php3 . From the list of 27 – in March 2003 - you’re bound to find one close to wherever you’re staying.
    The Legian Gardens Restaurant in Jl Melasti is a drop-off point for donations. There is a large box there.
    *  People who distribute gifts to +needy families, and who know the really needy cases are the women of Bali, the Bali International Women’s Association (BIWA). Check their website at www.biwabali.com/ or www.bali123.com/biwabali/index.htm. In 2003 they ran their annual Bazaar with nearly 3000 attending and over Rp250 million was raised in one day for AIDS victims, HIV prevention and aid to underprivileged children. Local support at this level indicates a known and respected organisation.
    *  The East Bali Poverty Project helps disadvantaged children to help themselves. Sort of ‘Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, Teach a man to fish and feed him for a lifetime.’ Go to http://www.eastbalipovertyproject.org/ for details of this worthy cause.
    *  Gloria’s Crisis Care Centre’ operates in north Bali around Lovina. Gloria offers free health care to impoverished Balinese villagers who would otherwise get no assistance at all. See  ‘Glorias’.
    *  Carry For Kids is an organisation fostering the carrying of selected goods to many third world locations including Bali. Many (Most? – All?) travellers to Bali soon learn to go lightly and buy essential supplies at their destination, but return home with bulging cases. This organisation seeks to use the empty suitcase space going in to Bali by taking donations to charities. http://carryforkids.org/about/history.html will give you the idea.
    *  The Hope Children’s Home. Provides accommodation to about 100 children of all ages as long as they are not independent. Ages range from a few months to early 20’s. A child here can be fully sponsored for US$20 per month. It is unashamedly a Christian organisation and teaching the doctrines is part of the program.
    *  St Francis of Assisi Orphanage in Dalung about 35 min by car from Kuta. English language is a bit of a problem. Check with Kerry or Milton at the Indo National Restaurant in Sahadewa St, Legian.
    *  An orphanage way out on the west coast (and which consequently gets overlooked usually) is Giri Asih at the small village of Malaya in the Negara district near Gillimanuk which is the ferry port to Java. Donations of money are welcomed and are officially registered and can be for very specific, donor elected projects, which is a bit unusual. Donors are encouraged to visit and re-visit to check on progress of their selected project. For info and photos contact [email protected].
    *  The Kupu Kupu (‘Butterfly’) Foundation cares for the needs of physically and mentally handicapped Balinese. They have a gallery at Jl Tirta Tawar 22A, Banjar Kutuh Kelod, UBUD.  Ph Begonia Lopez (62) 081 236 287 20. E-mail [email protected], web site www.yamp.com/kupukupu . Their aim is to release these people from the confining cocoon of their disabilities. http://yamp.com/KupuKupu/ . Located in Jimbaran it is easy to visit here.
    *  YKIP (www.mitrais.com , contact Wiwie Harris) and YKIDS (www.mysitespace.com contact Sarti Pramana) are organisations set up by business to organise educational relief for children orphaned in the Bali bombing at the Kuta nightclubs. Both contact persons are English speakers. The costs of administering the donations are absorbed into the normal daily business costs and ALL donations go to the children’s benefit.
    *  Kerri and Milton at the Indo National Restaurant in Jl Sahadewa, Legian, have good and independent contacts in the charitable organisations of Bali. If you really want to know what is needed and how to help go and talk to them. (And have a meal too, you won’t be disappointed.)
    *  Asri, at Alus Tailors E-mail [email protected], is a member of the Bali-Taman Rotary Club which has school projects going on in different areas. Work includes providing basic furniture such as student desks and re-roofing schools to keep the kids dry.
    *  Another Rotary contact is in Nusa Dua, [email protected]. In particular they support a school for deaf children, Sekola Luar Biasa-Bali, in Jimbaran. The school takes children from anywhere in Bali or the nearby islands, 150 in total in 2003 with about 50 from outside Bali who get no financial support from their homes. Their need is for funds for fees (this is a common need at schools and orphanages throughout Bali as there is no government support) and for normal school supplies of pencils, pens, books, paper and art materials.
    *  If you want to provide food for a deprived group, try a large box of Sari Mie instant noodles (40 packs) for Rp30,000, and a large container of drinking water Rp5,000 (about 75 cents Aust.) a bit over Aus$5 in total.
    *  Readers of the Bali Travel Forum have recently been made aware of the ‘Rubbish Tip People’ near Sanur. If you’ve ever wondered where all of the islands rubbish goes it is here, in meters-high mounds running for kilometres. People actually live here on the dump, scavenging for an existence. Donations of almost anything connected with the essences of life will be welcomed and can be left at the Adopta Coop at 135 Jl Pemogan, which is on the left as you travel the By Pass road towards Sanur. It runs parallel to the By Pass for some way before turning left. No 135 is quite a long way down the road. Ph Niluh on 0812 468 4554 for closer directions or driver Made on 0812 395 7296. E-mail [email protected]. They also now have a more central shop in Gang Ronta off Poppies Lane II in Legian-Kuta.
    Rice, noodles, water, insect repellent, sunhats, gloves - - - . The 9 basic food list generated as a months sustenance supply for a family of four after the bomb included; 30Kg rice, sugar, cooking oil or margarine, beef and chicken meat, eggs, milk powder, corn, kerosene (also called paraffin) for cooking fuel, and iodised salt. A simpler ‘quick fix’ was rice, sugar, oil, instant noodles and iodised salt.
    
    Text books in English are fine, preferably with pictures that relate to the writing. Op Shops or other charitable outlets in your home town are often inundated with books and might be happy to give you a number for a worthy cause. Airlines will often allow you a few Kg’s over weight if you are taking donations and arrangements are made beforehand.
14. The tall, slim, colourful flags on bamboo poles are common. They are called ‘Lelontek’ or ‘Umble umble’. You can buy them on the very top floor of the Denpasar markets. AppRp.60,000.  These are secular decorations with their origins in ancient China. They signify the presence of a god at an event. The tapering top that droops over towards the ground symbolises the belief that even the mightiest of gods or beings must have humility and respect for the earth that nourishes them. ‘Man must be like the stalk of rice, the more bountiful the head of grain the more the stalk bows to its source.’
    Similar in style but made from a bamboo stalk with highly decorative cut fronds are the ceremonial village street decorations called ‘Panjar’.
    The temple umbrellas, usually in crimson or gold colour and on long poles, are called ‘Payung’. They are associated wit religious ceremonies and therefore not seen as decorations by the Balinese. They serve to shade the gods and indicate their importance, thus pleasing the deities.
    A great source of Umble Umbles is Ud Sri Rejeki at Jl Raya Kuta No 97, Ph 753 477 or 765 739. Not only flags and decorations but all sorts of bits and pieces for ceremonies. Flags are about Rp40-50,000 depending on how many you want and how well you can bargain.
15. August is the beginning of the dry season and is popular for cremations, to which tourists will be welcomed if they are not too intrusive.

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SAYING – language prompts. Try http://www.geocities.com/filo_1au/Phrases.html for a pocket-size list you can print off and take with you. It fits easily into a shirt pocket, wallet or purse.

One of the best ‘ice-breakers’ we have found in Bali is to introduce yourself (and you will be asked who you are, nicely, a number of times) in the Balinese fashion, Wayan if you are first born, Made if you are the second child, Nyoman if the third and Ketut if you are the fourth. For example; I’m Wayan John and this is Nyoman Betty.

1. ‘Salamat pagi’, Good morning – to 11am. ‘S.. siang’ – 11 to 3. ‘S.. soree’ – to 6pm. ‘S.. malam’ – Good night. The spoken emphasis is on the last syllable, eg ‘Salamat pageeee’. The reply if often simply, ‘Pageeee’.
2. ‘Salamat tidur’ – Sleep well. ‘S.. tingal’, Goodbye (when leaving). ‘S..jalan’ – Goodbye (when you are the one who is staying and a guest is leaving).
3. ‘Halo!’ (‘Ahhloh’), Hello. ‘Ayo’, Hey/Hello (informal). ‘Sampi jumpa’, See you, Bye bye (informal).
4. ‘Terima kasih’, Thank you.
5. ‘Sama sama’ You are welcome – the response to ‘Terima kasih’.
6. ‘Apa kabar?’, How are you? ‘Bagus.’ - Exceptionally good. ‘Baik baik’. – Very Well. ‘Baik’. – Well.
7. ‘Sin can can’ – No problem!
8. ‘Ma’af’ – Sorry. ‘Permissi’ – Excuse me.
9. ‘Berapa’ (pron ‘brapa’) – ‘How much’. Understand that once said you have already entered into the bargaining/purchase process and if the vendor agrees to your last price you are morally obliged to buy the goods.
10. ‘Ya’, Yes. ‘Tidak’. No, (Not polite. Avoid if possible.) ‘Tidak Mau’ – don’t want. ‘Singla pis’ – no money.
11. ‘Hari ini’ – today.  ‘Besok’ – tomorrow.  ‘Besok besok’ – sometime.
12. ‘Bisa ambil foto?’ – Can I take a photo?
13. ‘Saya belum lancar di Bahasa Indonesia’. – I’m not fluent in Indonesian.
14. ‘Tolong Bicara pelan-pelan’ – Please speak slowly.
15. ‘Saya kurang mengerti’ – I don’t understand.
16. ‘Air panas dan dingin’ – Hot and cold water. ‘Botol air minum’. – Bottled drinking water.
17. ‘Ketas wese’ - Toilet paper. ‘Way-say’ – W.C. Dimana kamar kecil?’ – Where is the toilet?
18. ‘Berapper hargar?’ – How much?
19. ‘Cepat cepat!’ Hurry – But don’t expect any reaction.
20. ‘Apotic’ – chemist - pharmacy.
21. ‘Jalan Jalan’ – walking. ‘Jalan Jalan Jalan’ – walking a long way.
22. ‘Satu’ – one. ‘Dua’ – two. ‘Tiga’ – three. ‘Empat’ – four. ‘Lima’ – five.

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SHOPPING.

If you’re not sure what you can safely (legally) bring back into Oz have a look at the horses mouth – www.customs.gov.au/osgoods.htm. Other countries will certainly have a similar site for reference.

There are a growing number of fixed price outlets in Bali (all major department stores and restaurants are fixed price) but off the streets and in the markets you will be expected to bargain. The opening price will be about two or three times the price that the seller expects. With good grace and some humour you debate the sums until you reach a figure they all are happy with. You will get used to hearing, “Good for you – good for me”; “I give you best morning price” and “You mak me bunkroot!” frequently.
It is considered to be the height of rudeness to begin bargaining for something you really don’t want to buy or to refuse the purchase if the seller accepts your offer.

A recent scam which is upsetting shoppers is the habit in some stores of ringing up extra items at the till, or entering incorrect (higher) prices for purchased goods. If you think you’re being cheated don’t be afraid to check the bill or to go back and check the shelf price of an item. When you leave a correction is made and the difference pocketed by the operator. Be polite when you point out the ‘unfortunate’ error – losing your cool is seen as degrading to the Balinese. Calm and reasoned logic will gain you far more respect and cooperation.
Try to keep a sense of perspective during the process and remember that a difference between you of a few hundred rupiah is really chicken feed! – A few cents or pence or escuderas or punts or something.

1.        Only change your money at PT Central, usually found in Kodak shops, big department stores or ‘Bemo Corner’ in Kuta if you feel that it is safe to take your precious Passport out onto the street. ‘Wartels’, post & phone shops, are often also bank agencies and reliable money changers who are happy to accept a photo copy of the first page of your Passport – a much safer option. They are not as well used as PT central outlets yet but as travellers find out about them they will become much more popular.  Exchange rates are best in the south around Kuta. 

2.       Photo enlargements are very cheap. Take with you, from home, any negatives of photos you want enlarged and get them done in Bali. Get the good photos you take there enlarged to take home also. (Get digitised service in addition. $12 on CD-ROM.)
8" x 6" (20cm x 15 cm) enlargements are Rp4,000 (less than A$1), 14" x 10" Rp13,000 (A$2.75) up to 60cm x 50cm Rp52,500 (A$11.25).
Take photos of your Bali friends and give them enlargements as gifts.
Common 35mm films are readily available throughout Bali but for a range of special and better quality (up to professional) films see Pak Leo at Bali Photography in Kuta. He’s a good man to talk to about any questions you may have on tropical photography.
Disposable underwater cameras are great if snorkelling. Cheaper in Oz at app $17 instead of Rp140-150,000.

3.       SUPERMARKETS – Large & small.
Most supermarkets in the larger centres are open from 9 am to 10 pm.
It can be slow and frustrating to endure the payment process at many supermarkets. Dockets seem to be written for every item, taken to a supervisor for checking and eventually passed down a line of '‘do-ers & more checkers'’ at the registers. It seems to be the Balinese way of keeping up female employment but it’s not swift.
Simple electrical goods such as hot water jugs, toasters etc are cheap to buy (try Macro – see below) and cheap enough to give to a local family when you leave.  Complex electronic stuff will be a worry if you take it home and need to claim on a warranty.

4.       Tiara Grosir supermarket, Jl Teuku Umar on the west side of Denpasar. Wholesale warehouse that welcomes Bali tourists. Also has food stalls for meals and 2 bakeries. Same owners as Alpha, which is a branch closer to Kuta on Jl Imam Bonjol. Not as big as Macro but there is no charge to enter.

5.       Macro SuperStore. Between Kuta & Sanur on left. A sort of a local bulk store. Rp5,000 entrance fee. No children allowed. Multi packs of wide variety of goods very cheap but allow for 10% tax and cost of bags at the check out. Eg. Sharp Rice Cooker A$28. Most consumable goods are in bulk or largest packets. If you don’t buy in bulk the prices are about the same as in the more popular department stores such as Matahari’s. A crate of 16 large beer is just over Rp100,000 and the crate has a deposit of Rp30,000 is cheap being about Aus$1.60 a bottle. If you don’t want to take your crate and bottles back give it to your driver or the person who cleans your room. 24 x 600 ml of water for less than Rp25.000. Chuppa Chups are about Rp40,000 for a 100 pack; about Aus 10 cents each. If you’re going to an orphanage or a school this is a great place to stock up on a dozen tubes of tooth paste and 100 tooth brushes. A carton of soaps and shampoo, feminine toiletries (yes, the young Balinese girls do use them if they can get them – if not - - -?) etc etc.

6.       Bintang Supermarket on the main road in Seminyak is quite large and well stocked.

7.       There is a One Dollar Shop in Kuta at the end of Bakungsari street, opposite the pet shop and next to Super Nova department store. An amazing range of goods all priced ar Rp5,000. Jl Raya Legian No 135, Kuta-Legian. There is also one in the Ramayana in Denpasar. Here items are either Rp5,000 or Rp10,000.

8.       Locals in Seminyak and Legian often prefer the Alfa Supermarket Jl Imam Bonjol, Denpasar. In Pasar Sanglah. Ask any decent taxi driver.. Very large like the Makro but it’s not necessary to buy in bulk here.

9.       Almost opposite (about 1 Km ?) Macro Superstore on the Sanur By Pass road (on the Kuta side of the turn-off to Benoa Harbour) is a wine shop that sells wine made from Western Australian grape juice for Rp85,000, $15, per bottle. NOT TO BE MISSED! It has a large bottle at the front of the shop. Tourists welcome for a tasting. They will deliver to nearby hotels – (0361) 726 883, Fax (0361) 726 884. Also available at Matahari store in Kuta for Rp125,000, which makes it worth a 5 min taxi ride to get your supplies from the winery. See ‘Drinking – safely’ just below or via the link in the General section above, and also ‘Eating – safely & enjoyably’ just below or via the link above.
The cheapest wine available in Bali is locally made Indico Wines for about Rp 42,000. Hatten Wines, also local, are a bit dearer and a bit more palatable but not to everyone’s taste.

10.    Dijon Food Specialties store is also near this roundabout; or go left from Bemo Corner near Matahari in Kuta – over the bridge and right after the petrol station – about 120 paces on your left from this direction. It stocks many items that you would be familiar with from home and Euro-deli lines. Kuta Poleng Mall, Blok A1-A2, Jl Setiabudhi, Kuta. Ph (0361) 759-636 or 759-638. E-mail [email protected]. Web site at http://www.dijon-bali.com/.

11.     Alfa Supermart similar to Macro. On Jl Imam Bonjol just out of Kuta going towards Denpasar, 2-3 km. Have a look at the rice cookers and warmers used by the world’s experts on rice. 220 volts but work OK on Ozzie 240v. There is no alcohol sold now (or at Tiara Grossir) as the owners are Islamic.

12.    Libby.

13.    Matahari. In Kuta Square and near McDonalds at No 117 Jl Raya Legian in Legian St. Also classy new DFS Mal Galleria, Simpansura St with many other shops near roundabout with chariot statue just out of Kuta – NOT Nusa Dua. Also Denpasar. White taxis operate here and need firm persuasion to put the meter on.

14.    Ramayana. Denpasar. Recommended hairdresser on top, Johnie Andreas. Foot ‘reflexi" Rp15,000 hair cream bath Rp25,000. Good when you think you’re shopped out.

15.    Tragia. Diagonally opposite Ramayana, about 400 meters from the exit near Pizza Hut.

16.    Tiara Dewata – has a section for collectors of mint and used stamps and notes, incl. Japanese Occupation currency. Cheap children’s clothing. Larger version of Alpha (se above.)

17.    Tiara Grosir.

18.    The Geneva Handicraft Centre in Kerobokan is establishing a good reputation (’04). It’s at No100 Jl Raya Kerobokan, over the top of the Geneva furniture store. Ph 62 361 733 571. [email protected].

19.    There is a factory outlet for brand-name clothes called Big Buy Bakungsari. There is on Jl Bakungsari Noss Kuta and at Big Buy, Kuta Centre.

20.   If you are not sure of the clothing sizes that are use in Bali try www.onlineconversion.com/ .

21.    CHILDREN’S FOOD – Many familiar brands are available in most tourist centres but to make sure of a peaceful start to your holiday take 1 or 2 days supply of familiar food with you and slowly wean baby on to more readily available products if necessary. Nappies, powder etc are readily available but probably not much cheaper than home prices as many are imported. 2 for 2 and free giveaways are often offered. Milton tablets, a sterilising container and a bottle brush might be worth the space when you are packing however. Remember not to use the reticulated water in Bali for anything except careful washing.

22.   CHILDREN’S CLOTHES -
Indigo Kids in Legian-Kuta.
Matahari’s Department Store.
Kuta Kidz near Bemo Corner, Kuta. They also have a seconds shop towards Seminyak.

23.   HAND BAGS. Most of the big stores carry the standard lines, often at great discounts. A small store that dares to be different is Top Ten Branded in Melasti Street near the Legian Beach Hotel.
Tommy in Kuta Square also has A grade bags from the well known makers.

24.   Galeria. Nusa Dua. Expect higher prices here.

25.   Super Nova. Kuta. Good internet room on top.

26.   Arum Agung. Jl Danau Tamblingan not too far from the Hyatt in Sanur.

27.   Sarina’s on the By Pass Road near the Raddison Hotel.

28.   Hero’s. On the left about half way between Tuban and Denpasar. Fruit & Veg. Time Zone. Stationery.

29.   If you’re shopping for clothes it’s not a bad idea to wear a pair of bathers rather than normal underclothes. This makes changing easier and can also free you from the change room queue if you can duck behind a rack.

30.   Stock House, several, Jl Raya Kuta 100 M from petrol station. Export quality including larger sizes.

31.    Surf Gear factory outlet. Jl Ngurah Rai By Pass near the big statue, on opposite side of road about 400 m past Bali Mall and Galleria. Ph 766 646. Rip Curl button collared shirts Rp 122,000 – Volcon dress Rp90,000 – Rip Curl dresses Rp70-150,000 – men’s T’s from Rp80,000 – bikinis Rp122,000.

32.   Sarong Warehouses, Jl 66, off Jl Raya Legian, it goes to the beach where you can get a cold drink from Benny’s before going back for all of those things you decided not to buy on your way down first time. Fixed prices from Rp10,000. Different patterns in each shop.

33.   Geneva Handicrafts and Furniture – Jl Raya Legian. Wholesale prices.

34.   ‘Baliopoly’, local board game like ‘Monopoly’. Rp200,000. A$40. - Cheapest delivered by makers – 732 617 [email protected] www.baliopoly.webkita.com. Don’t expect great quality.

35.   Business Cards – Colourful plastic – Aus$5/100 – Phone Ketut 082 361 3573. Also stickers, labels, T-shirts.

36.   Your friendly shopkeeper will politely ask you where you are staying. Do not confess to staying anywhere in Nusa Dua as this is the signal to extract the highest price from a rich tourist.

37.   Gold prices. If you have a home price per ounce dividing this by 30.1034 will give you the price per gram. 24 ct. Bali gold is usually 22 ct. but the above calculation will be close enough to give you a good idea of comparative prices. If your purchases are weighed beware of the weight of cheap stones being included in the weight and charged at gold prices. Better quality stones can be purchased and put into your jewellery for the cost of the stone and app Rp25,000 fitting charge. Price varies daily. It was Rp70,000/gram April ’01 and Rp70,000 again in late ’02, but varied greatly in between. 18 ct (stamped ‘70%’, which is actually 16.9 ct.) is also available and may be preferable in some items where there is a risk of greater wear that the softer 22 ct. will not stand for long. You’ll pay about 1/3 of the western prices for similar items. Most of the gold dealers are Chinese or Arab. Jl Hasanuddin in Denpasar is generally regarded as the ‘gold street’ in Bali.

38.   Superior quality jewellery – Mayang Bali store is on an acute corner between Kuta markets and the ‘back’ entrance to Matahari Department store.
Also Putu Artana, in the village of Anturan near Lovina in the north. He is a Master Craftsman who makes unique pieces and will make jewellery to your design in gold or silver. www.wonderfulbali.com/silver/
Also Bujangga Silver, Jl Tuban on way to airport, on right next to ANA restaurant.
Purnama Silver Jewellery at Lodtundah Ubud. Visit www.purnama-sari.com.
Made Murjani ([email protected]) manufactures jewellery in a small factory and exports, mainly to the US. She will do custom work also. A display of the work can be seen at her home in Bedulu.
There is a group of crafts people at the Bandem Community of Silversmiths in Singapadu, just north of the Bird and Reptile Parks. Look for the sign on the main road. They have jewellery and beads. 
Jewellery repairs can be reliably done at many places including Mayang (se above) where you can watch the jewellers at work and keep an eye on your stones, and the jewellers in the gold shops near the markets in Hassanudin street in Denpasar. Also in the jewellery store in the Balihai Resort building in Tuban at the end of Jl Wana Segara.

39.   ‘Face To Face Engraving’. Have a look at www.facetoface-bali.com/index.htm . They engrave your photos onto gold, silver brooches, bracelets, lockets etc. Ramayana, Bali Mall, Jl Diponegoro Denpasar, Floor 1, south entrance. Ph 0817 345 744.

40.   WOODEN WARE. Customs in your home country will probably want to look very closely at all wooden stuff that you want to bring home from Bali. When you buy stuff it’s a good idea to give it a few sharp taps on a solid surface and look closely to see if any fine dust fall out that might indicate a borer infestation. Do this for bamboo furniture as wall as other wood; it’s no fun to get it home and find that your house is suddenly infested with an exotic pest. Check the surfaces, including the bottom and under any legs that might have been in contact with the ground, for small holes which might either be open or might have been plugged with dust or glued-in plugs.
Customs seem to appreciate it if you put all your small wooden ware in one bag so that their job is a little easier. We use a cloth bag with a draw string in the neck. It’s easy to carry over and to bring back. If you find an infestation in some small article you could try putting it into a suitable size plastic bag and sealing it up with Diazinon (commonly found as an ingredient in pet washes) or Lorsban from garden supplies.
Top quality wooden things are quite expensive, not at all like the cheap market goods. Some of the best is available at the Tliem Gallery in Mas, a village north of Seminyak. It is a short walk north of the Tantra Gallery, also a place to buy quality art works in wood. Small pieces are really not expensive but the big works are although they are excellent value if you want to collect quality pieces. Even if you’re not prepared to pay the prices asked they are worth a visit to get an idea of how the quality and the prices vary.

41.    Customs will not allow Banana products into Oz as they are very dangerous. Similarly raw hide (like dog chews) that is sometimes used in craft products and the encase candles etc. They will cost you $60 to have irradiated!!!

42.   Other products which are prohibited imports from Bali to Australia (and other countries probably have similar restrictions/web pages) can be reviewed at http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?area_id=5&nav-id=292 .

43.   BEADS –
* Ahmad Dahlan, Toko Central. Huge variety. 4Kg A$40. 100 grams for as little as Rp2,000. From Jl Legian turn left at Bemo Corner and go on until you cross the bridge. The road bends to the left and there is a group of shops on the right with a sign, ‘Toko Central’. Its only about 100 paces from Bemo Corner. Their English is not too good but point or self-select and they write the price down form you. Be patient. No silver beads but lots of glazed, seed and plastic ones.
[The address, Jl Raya Kuta No 105 C-D, Kuta. Ph 764 323, is for either Toko Central or Bujangga Silver. I’d be pleased if someone could confirm which it is.]
* Olivias is in Jl Sahadewa (between Melasti and Padma) towards the Melasti end on the western side. This is a great shopping street with a market on the corner and further down there are CD’s, leather, shoes and good restaurants.
* Bujangga Silver on Jl Raya Tuban between the airport and Kuta has silver beads and pendants that are rare. Rp3,000/gram.
* Toko Mawar might be an offshoot on Jl Imam Bonjol in Denpasar.
* Silver beads are made and sold at a small shop in Br Mukti, Singapadu, Sukawati. Ni Wayan Supartiwi, who does not have a good command of English, (so patience is needed,) owns the shop. A good local driver will get you there without worries. The phone number is 0361 294 232, but unless you have a good command of Bahasa Indonesia get your hotel clerk to phone for you. Prices are in the range of Rp2,500 / gram.
* You can also try the Bandem Community of Silversmiths, Br Sengguan Singapuda in Sukawati (0361 298 688 ([email protected]) or Koming Ayu, I Nyoman Rupadana, Jl Raya Celuk Sukawati, Gianyar, 0361 298 302, [email protected].
* Solomon Silver, in street near Jayakarta just before Rhum Café.
There is (was) a stall on the second level of the old Denpasar markets. It has probably moved to the new ones.
* Buana Raya is also in Denpasar. A local cab driver could find it for you.
Bali Silver Beads, http://bali-silver-beads.com , Jl Sidakarya, Perum. Calista Karya Indah A-10, Denpasar. Ph (62 812) 391 9977.
* Vista Shop Jl Legian Kelod 386, Legian. By Circle K store. Silver beads.
* A bead shop on Jl 66. It is on the right as you come from Jl Legian.
* Happy Art Shop Ocean Beads is owned by Benny B ans can be found at Jl Legian-Kuta-Bali No.426-Z. Ph/Fax (0361) 761 508, Mob 0381 3387 31204. They have large size resin beads and others.

* Bintang Silver Collection in Jl Padme Utara, Legian. Near Puri Raja Hotel. Fixed price and cheap.
* Jl Pura Bagus Taruna (once known as Rum Jungle Road) has a shop named Dani Collection. Beads, shells, silver, accessories. Good English.
* Sanzik Shop is at Jl Sahadewa No17C, Legian. [email protected]. More beads than you can shake a stick at!
* Satria is across the road from the Supernova Department Store. 250 grams for Rp7,500. Jl Raya Kuta No200X, Kuta. [email protected]. www.satria-bali.com.  They also have a store at Jl Gajah Mada No134 in Denpasar.
* Jl Double Six in Legian/Seminyak seems to be becoming the place to hunt for beads, accessories and craft supplies in many of the shops.
BUTTONS – Try H. Shata Shop at 404 Jl Raya Legion near Jl Padma. Ph 758 538.  Also at 429 Jl Legian Tengah.
SEQUINS – Try Jl Sulawesi, Denpasar. The shops are off Jl Hasanuddin near the markets. Quite often you can buy them in bulk by weight.

44.   CRAFT SUPPLIES: Toko have 3 outlets in Bali;
Toko Central, 105 Jl Raya Kuta
Toko Abadi, 65 Jl Raya Tuban
Toko Kita 445 Jl imam Bonjol, Denpasar.

45.   Temple umbrellas are made in a small village just north of Klungkung on the road to Karangasem, not far past the bridge. There are many varieties but you’ll need all of your bargaining skills.
They are also available in the Denpasar markets on the top floor but the variety is not so great. Three layered large size are app Rp70,000.
Flags are available here also, Rp18,000 approx – three sizes, 2, 3 and 5 m. in plain colours and various patterns.

46.   For different gift ideas try Bali Boxes, Jl Dyana Pura 4, Kuta. Ph(62-0361) 731 415 or 731 637.

47.   Some common items such as toothbrushes and toothpaste (strongly flavoured) are remarkably cheap – even for Bali.

48.   Computer software (all pirated of course) is great buying. If the occasional program really refuses to run you will not have lost much in cash terms. Even full blown programs such as MS Office Pro are only Rp35,000/disc – that’s about A$7.00 !!! If you have trouble at the ‘enter the number’ stage and the appropriate number is not written on the box, label or disc, then open the disc in your computer (put the disc in the drive then - ‘Start’ – ‘Programs’ – ‘Windows Explorer’ – ‘CD-Rom drive’ or just ‘Start’ - ‘Run’) and then open each file you see – look at the contents of the ‘Read Me’ file too, or look for a file that might be called ‘comment’, ‘serial’, ‘crack’ (if the start code has been ‘cracked’) ‘key-gen’ ‘S.N.’ or a file ending in ‘.txt’ - the copiers often put the number in the disc contents rather than on a piece of paper which can get lost. Look also for a file called ‘Crack’  or ‘Crack.exe’ which will contain the code. Copy and paste this code into the folder on your c: drive that contains the game. You might get a prompt pop up asking if you want to replace the existing file – click Yes of OK.  Failing that log on to Google (search) and try "warez" and "serial numbers" for an extensive list to help you. http://www.astalavista.box.sk/ and http://www.subserials.com/ are other sites with opening codes.
Don’t phone Bill Gates at home and ask for after sales service!

49.   Helgie is a favourite PS2, CD, DVD etc, supplier for Forumites, delivering to your hotel or posting to your home. Contact Helgie at [email protected] or Deedee [email protected] or visit his web site, www.geocities.com/mcshop2002/helgie.htm. Ph (0011) (62) (361) 759 843. Shop in Garlic Lane off Melasti Street just opposite Dolphin Leather (recommended) and the Dolphin Cafe. He will mail discs to you at your home. You pay into his local bank account in Oz before the order is accepted. Yes, this has been proven to be reliable for many users. Takes about 10 days. He also guarantees the discs, which no one else seems to do.

50.   Engineering software from Softcomp Centre, Jl Legian Kelod No 408C and Poppies II – [email protected] for list. MP3’s for Rp35,000 with 200 tracks.
Other computer software outlets; See the Denpasar District section.

51.    DVD’s are the current fashion and are readily available at ridiculous prices – but be careful. Some VCD’s are very poor copies made from movie cameras in picture theatres. Check the quality on a player before you buy. No player – no buy. App Rp45,000 each. Bargain for volume purchases. At Ramayana Department store you can’t bargain but they commonly offer 1 free for purchase of 10 or 3 free for 20.

52.   Playstation games from Rp3,000 / CD (top floor Ramayana shopping centre) to Rp5,000.

53.   Prices for some everyday items (June 2001) – Crochet tablecloth (Git Git) Rp45,000 – Adidas V neck men’s’ tops (Kuta Markets) Rp25,000 – 5 watches (Kuta Beach Markets) Rp 25,000 each. – Toddlers and baby outfits at department stores. Rp30-40,000. Men’s’ business trousers (Matahari’s) Rp127,000. – Business shirts Rp50,000. – Italian ties (Discon) Rp100,000. – Long sleeve surf shirts (Kuta markets) Rp25,000 / short sleeve Rp20,000. – New music CD’s (everywhere) Rp70,000. – Small leather shoulder bags. Rp25,000. – Play Station games. Rp5,000. – Aussie coin bangles, matching mum-‘n-daughter. Rp 80,000 the pair. – Leather belts – Nike, Billabong etc, 10 for Rp300,000. – Hair braiding Rp30,000 – Bali girls hats Rp10,000 – Kids T-shirts Rp 20,000 – Men’s Nike knitted singlets Rp25,000 – Billabong kids shorts Rp15,000 – two long suede jackets A$290 – stubby holders Rp5,000 – watches Rp25,000 average – kids shirts Rp20,000 – men’s shirts Rp25,000 – 4 stone lanterns Rp200,000 – wrap-round, short skirt Rp20,000 – ¾ pants Rp25,000 – girls shorts Rp20,000 – girls skirts Rp20,000 – XXL Bali bag Rp70,000 – massage Rp25-50,000 depending on time/quality (you’ll get what you pay for) – sarongs Rp10-25,000 depending on fabric and size) – strapped dresses Rp25,000 -
Lombok carved wooden place mats. Rp15,000.
FISHING GEAR: Telescopic rods, 2m, Rp65,000. 3m, Rp95,000. Rod & tackle bags Rp20-25,000. 4 bearing reels Rp60-70,000. Fabric coated squid jigs Rp 15,000.

54.   Larger size clothing. Try Miss Debbie’s in Jl Sahadewa, beach side about 50 M north of Jl Melasti.

55.   Big sizes off the rack in Ubud at Mutiara, Jl Raya and Real Bodies, Jl Hanuman opp Bodyworks.

56.   Batiks and Ikat cloth readily available at most markets, including Sukawati. The best batiks are dyed right through the cloth. If the colour/pattern is stronger on one side it is probably printed or stamped which is not the best.

57.   Prescription spectacles are good buying in Bali. There are outlets in most tourist areas such as Nusa, Sanur, Denpasar and Kuta. Try Bali Top Opticor Optic Seis or Optic Melawai or Harisha Optical (115 Jl Raya Kuta), for contacts, single focus, bi-focals and multi focals. Also prescription sun glasses. Transitional prescription glasses $120 in Denpasar, depending on frame quality. With cheap frames bi-focals can be as cheap as A$60. Eye testing is free or they can be made to your own prescription. Complex prescriptions can take 7-9 days (go early in your holiday) although simple reading glasses are same day or even ‘call back when you’ve finished shopping’! Check the fit of the lens in the frames.
Optic, ground floor Ramayana Department store; In Kuta about 5 doors down from Matahari Department store (A$260 for multi-focal cf. $700 in Oz.).
Harisna Optical, Jl Raya Kuta N0 105. From Bemo corner walk towards Denpasar (north), over the bridge and it’s on the right hand side where where the road bears left. Multi-focals, rimless titanium frames, A$163. Locals seem to prefer this outlet.
Contact lens – Bali Galleria at the optometrists. Rp135,000 for a 6-pack. Made in Indonesia by Ciba Vision.
In Sanur there are two outlets, one in Hardy’s Mall (the big supermarket-shopping centre) and another in the main street a short distance north of the Santrian Hotel.
Not always easy to find saline solution. Optic in Denpasar is an outlet.

58.   Bali’s first Flea Market opens today (24.8.02), and each Saturday thereafter, at the Puri Asri Hotel in Petulu Gunung near Ubud. Petulu Gunung is also known as the village of the birds. The Puri Asri Hotel is 1 km north of Delta Dewata then left towards Kokokan – thereafter there will be prominent signs. The market opens between 10 am and 5 pm with vendors from all over Bali selling quality art works, collectibles, antiques and curios. These are wholesale sellers presenting their goods to the public at wholesale prices: they are not retailers.

59.   Orchid plants are available in Bali and may be brought back into Australia if they are small tissue cultured examples growing in sterile medium in glass flasks. There may be up to 25 plants in a bottle and there are reports of strike rates as high as 75% when planted out. A maximum of 6 flasks per person are allowed and it is best to get a permit from Customs before you leave Oz. Go to AQIS on your computer and look for ‘tissue cultures’.
The Bali Orchid Garden is run by Troy Davis, also known as Fat B. He has over 100 varieties on show and over 100 varieties in flasks. Ph 466 010 or Mob 081 2383 5155.
Flora Bali in the village of Kesiman near Sanur can also supply. Ask for Ibu Sylvia Muti or Pak Arnold.

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EATING – with safety and enjoyably.

There must be thousands of restaurants, cafes and warungs (the local’s equivalent of fast food outlets) in Bali, offering a worldwide selection of cuisines.  Many travellers report that they have eaten every meal at a different place and never had a bad one.  Indeed, amongst such competition it can easily be believed that any that are bad would soon close up, but some dubious ones remain.

Balinese traditionally do not have the more-or-less fixed eating times common to westernised cultures but rather eat whenever they are hungry.  Consequently eating is not a social occasion as we accept it.  If you are out for travelling the day, your driver will understand that you will want to eat three meals a day. Don’t be either surprised or offended however if he declines your invitation to eat with you.  He might prefer to rest and snooze in the car, talk ‘local shop’ with other drivers, eat non-westernised local food from a warung or a passing food cart or (as at the Pacung Indah Guesthouse and Restaurant near Bedugul) eat in the separated drivers area provided especially for their own needs.

Further down you will find many restaurants, cafes & warungs named in the various District sections. Travellers reporting on the Bali Travel Forum (BTF) site have recommended all of these. Here is a link to Eating at the first of the District pages, Tuban and Kuta. If you continue to scroll down from there you will find the others although it will be quicker to go up to the index and select the district you will be staying in.
BTF also maintain a current list of their staff favourites on http://www.baliguide.com/restaurants.html that is well worth referring to.
Another good list of eateries can be found at http://www-baliku.tripod.com/restaurantlinks.html .
http://www.balieats.com/ is up-to-date & accurate.

 

1. ‘Bali Belly’ is not rife but it will ruin your holiday and your friends’ holiday if you get it. If you get it bad the Bali medical system is not something you’ll enjoy, or even feel relaxed within!
   Wash or wipe your hands first. See ‘Contacts & Info’ above.
2. Imported wine is not cheap to buy in Bali. The local Hattan wines are worth trying for interest. Their fruity white won an award in Europe in ’03. Their cellar-door shop is on the big round about by the exit to Sanur, near the Planet Hollywood. Average Rp45,000/bottle.  Some French grape juice is now being used.
   You can bring your own (as much as you dare over the allowed 2 litres) but be prepared to pay $$$ if you get caught at Customs. Work out what you are prepared to pay in advance and keep just that amount with your traveller’s cheques. Then you can show that that is all you have! Keep the rest of your cash elsewhere. At worst your wine will be confiscated – at best your "fine" will be accepted.
   Best wine shop at 60 Jl Raya Kerobokan has a reasonable selection at reasonable (for Bali) prices. It’s near Kafe Warisan. Per bottle US$15+.
   The new Ku de Ta Restaurant in Seminyak has probably the best wine list. It’s right on the beach next to the Oberoi and is not cheap, as the neighbourhood might suggest.
   If you have a contact in Customs it might be possible to purchase confiscated wine at good prices – but don’t tell them who told you!
   A new local wine outlet has opened recently (2001), using grape juice imported from West Aust. See note 6 in ‘Shopping’, above. This is Wine of the Gods. They have an outlet where you can taste on the Ngurah Rai By Pass road from the airport. It is near the pink Bali Adventure Tours building. If you get to the Makro Supermarket you’ve come too far. Go back and look on the other side of the road. Ph 726 883. A$12-18 a bottle. They will deliver free to nearby hotels.
   There is a retail outlet for all sorts of wines towards Legian from Matahari’s.
   Indico Wines are another local producer with vineyards along the north coast not far from Lovina. These vines are said to be descended from original cutting brought by the early traders in the Spice Islands. See www.wguides.com/city/191/240_293505.efm. Visits to the Lovina Winery can be arranged. Ph +62 361 228 222. There is an office in Denpasar at Jl Raya Puputan, No88, RENON.
3. Are you paying ‘commission’? The standard price of Nasi Goreng ‘Special’ is Rp15,000.
   How much tax are you paying? Restaurant/café rates vary from 5% to 25%. Makes a difference at the end of the meal. Check the tax and service charge rates on the menus.
4. Fruit is fantastic! Any fruit that you can peel is safe. Do not eat fruit if the edible portion has been washed in local water.
5. Try Passionfruit, Salak, and Mangosteen, known as Manggis (pron Mun – geese) if fresh. They cut easily around the ‘equator’ but are very tough from ‘pole to pole’. If you can pull off the stem and leaves there is a small hollow left. Squeeze around this and a split will open in the skin. Try Sawo and bananas also.
6. ‘Makan Pagi’ – breakfast. ‘Makan Siang’ – lunch. ‘Makan Malam’ – dinner.
7. ‘Nasi’ – rice. ‘Mie’ – noodles. ‘Ikan’ – fish. ‘Ayam’ – chicken. ‘Sapi’ – beef. ‘Babi’ – pork. ‘Kepiting’ – crab. ‘Udang’ – shrimp/prawns. ‘Susu’ – milk. ‘Gulu’ – sugar. ‘Kopi’ – coffee. ‘The’ – tea. ‘Bir’ – beer. ‘garam’ – salt. ‘Merica’ – pepper.
8. Bakso Sapi – noodle soup w/ beef balls. Sate Ayam or Sate Kambing – chicken or goat sate. Soto Babat – offal soup. Martabak telur – savoury omelette. Sop Kaki Kambing – leg of lamb soup. Nasi Goreng Komplit – fried rice with the lot incl. fried egg on top. Mie Kocok – fried noodles w/ vegetables. Lontong Opor – rice cake w/ chicken curry. Tahu Ketupat – beancurd with vegetables. Karedok – vegetables w/ peanut sauce. Cah Kangkung – spicy vegetables and spinach. Nasi Campur – (Bali special), mixed rice. Es Campur – mixed fruit drink. Es Kalapa Muda – young coconut milk w/ coconut flesh. Cendol – coconut milk, palm sugar and rice flour, drink or dessert.
9. Most steaks are tough in Bali. Some believe that they are all ‘road-killed-or-died-of-old-age-or-natural-causes’ water buffalo. They’re certainly not grain-fed and lot-fattened beasts.
10. There are a wide variety of breads and other baked products available in Bali. In Seminyak try the French Country Loaf from Temuku next to the Krakatoa. Le Bake Shop in Kuta has breakfast rolls, baguettes etc, as do the Gourmet Garage in Jimbaran By and Kafe Moka in Legian. The Bali Deli at 119X Jl Kunti in Seminyak is worth checking for cake shop items and Dijon’s opposite the Bali International Medical Clinic (BIMC) on the roundabout on Jl By Pass Kuta/Tuban.
11. Desserts are great in the land of coconut milk and palm sugars. Try Black Rice Pudding (for breakfast too). ‘Rujak’ is a tropical fruit salad with dressing containing tamarind, palm sugar and sweet & sour chilli sauce. Don’t think about it – try it! ‘Home Made Ice creams’ such as ginger flavoured.
12. Some brave people try the street carts called ‘kaki lima’ (‘5 feet’) Claim great taste is reward!?
13. "Recommending places to eat in Bali is like picking the winner of the Grand National. The horse can have great form and the world’s best trainer but the real question is, who is the jockey? In Bali restaurants and warungs the question is, who is cooking today?" – ‘Cracker & Rae’.
14. Vegetarian meals are fairly easy to find in Bali. One of the more notable vegetarian restaurants is Aromas in Kuta. Others that have been recommended for vegetarians with non-vegy partners are
    The Crown Restaurant in Jl Legian, not far from the Legian Paradiso;
    Moody’s in Jl Dynapura, Seminyak;
    The Mariner in Jl Legian; Poppies in Poppies Lane, Kuta;
    Ledgends Restaurant;
    Indo National in Jl Sahadewa, Legian.
    Savitri Café near the golf course in Sanur.
15. For ‘at home’ delicacies try Dijon in Kuta near the roundabout on the By Pass road not far from the airport.
    Bali Deli in Jl Kunti, Seminyak.
    Gormet Garage in Jimbaran.
    Matahari’s Department store in Kuta also has a range of cheeses, including Brie, salami, olives etc.
    For Aussies Vegemite is easily obtained but check the label carefully. Most supplies are made in New Zealand and are slightly sweet, more like Marmite. Try Dijon Deli near the roundabout on Jl By Pass near the airport.
16. Donations to Gloria’s Crisis Care Centre can be made at the Legian Garden Restaurant in Melasti Street. Any good taxi driver can take you there. Atmosphere and food’s good too.
    Other drop-off places for donations are Tommy’s Café on Jl Puri Bagus Teruna (also known as Rum Jungle Road) and CAS Cargo on the By Pass Road in Denpasar.
     Gloria’s CCC is in Dusun Lebah, Kaliasem, Lovina.  Visitors are welcome to come and see the work. Volunteer workers are doubly welcome. See the web site which has been set up for her at www.balicrisicare.org .  Ph (0362) 42 286 or 0812 377 4649 E-mail [email protected].
    There is a wish-list of the most urgent needs and it is regularly updated.  http://www.wonderfulbali.com/albums/19/wishlist.htm .

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DRINKING – for enjoyment and safely.

1. Drink only bottled water that you have taken the top off yourself or which you have seen the top taken off and the seal broken, or water vigorously boiled for 5 minutes – and what’s left of it then?
2. If you partake of Beer (and you will, regularly and in larger than normal quantities as a cooling libation I can assure you) then also remember to drink lots of water to overcome dehydration, which is a real and serious risk in Bali’s heat.
3. Do not use straws as they are sometimes washed and re-used.
4. Don’t risk cold bottled/canned drinks from coolers filled with ice slurry. The water in the slurry must be suspect. Use drinks from refrigerated cabinets.
5. In the southern tourist areas at least, ice seems OK.
6. Beers – Bintang (it means ‘star’ in the local language), Carlsberg, San Migel, Anker.
7. Lassi. Yoghurt drink with fruit or honey.
8. Taking wine into Bali beyond the 1 litre per person limit is a game indulged in and enjoyed by many. If you find that a white cross marks your bags when you pick them up you have been caught and you will need a good story or a few dollars to pay the Customs Officer’s "fine". Decide how much you’re prepared to pay in advance and keep only this amount in your wallet with travellers’ cheques. If you’re asked for more than this sum show your wallet and explain that this is all that you have. It will generally be accepted. Do not whinge and whine! Smile and take it on the chin. Remember it’s a game and you decided to play.
   I have heard it said that the best range of wines at the very best prices in all of Bali is at the back door of the Customs House, but I can’t personally confirm this because I’ve never been able to find the right door.
   There is a local wine named Hattans that can be tried for the sake of interest and for background conversation at your next Beefsteak and Burgundy club meeting! World wines (mainly Australian and French) are commonly available at the supermarkets but the prices are alarming as the Governments excise duty paid for alcohol imported into Bali is astronomical. This is to appease the majority Muslims in the Indonesian upper & ruling classes. Best Wines in Jl Kerobokan supply imported wines at more reasonable rates than most outlets. In Ubud sales are available from the new Lamak Restaurant at around Rp100,000 / bottle (A$20-US$10 app) and this is discounted at 30% to take away.
   An enterprising West Australian company is now exporting grape juice into Bali (at nil excise rates as it is not alcohol at this stage) and completing the fermentation processes there. Known as ‘Wine of the Gods’ ( [email protected] )it is available from the winery/shop on Sanur bypass road, on the right just past Adventure Tours House but before the Benoa Harbour turn-off as you travel from Kuta. You can taste before you buy. Prices are about Rp80-95,000/bottle. If you know what you want they will deliver an order to your hotel. A good site for the latest info on wines in Bali is http://baliguide.com/restaurants_intro.html#beer .

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VISITING Some recommended ‘hot spots’.

1. Pupuan, rice terraces, on 30 Km of road between Tabanan & Seririt.  Jatiluwit, also in the Tabanan Regency is spectacular and a major producer of red rice.
2. Candikuning, fruit & veg market.
3. Bali Art Tour,
4. Pondok Wana Plaga.
5. Visit Munduk.
6. Gianyar, Bali’s bamboo district.
7. Rice terraces at Tirtagganga (often claimed to be the best in Bali – particularly in the months leading up to July) or Tegalang.
8. Visit the three Dutch colonial iron railway bridges in Bali. Sukawati, west of the Art Market. Between Bona and Belega villages, towards Gianyar. The largest towards Klunkung. All on the main road (actually a bit north of the present road, from Batubukan, (north east of Denpasar) through Bona, (near Gianyar), to Klungkung in the mid-east towards Candi Dasa..
9. Dreamlands Beach about 30 min from Kuta on the way to Uluwatu. You can rent rooms at the beach and there are warungs for food & drink, massage and so on. The water gets deep very quickly near the shore but the reef can be dangerous because it is very shallow and the waves dump further out.  Padang Padang beach is a bit further south towards Uluwatu and is also spectacular with bright greenish water.
10. Padang Padang beach on the Bukit peninsula near Ulu Watu temple.
11. The butterfly park at Tabanan, north west of Denpasar. Rp15-30,000 There is also a store in Ubud, Jl Raya Lungsiakan that sells insect souvenirs. Declare them when you go home, just in case.
12. Beware of the so-called ‘Village of Thieves’, Pennestenan and Nyuhkuning. These neighbouring villages are a couple of kilometres west of Ubud (Pennestenan) and a couple south (Nyuhkuning). Campuan just out of Ubud also has a bad reputation for tourist robbery. Robberies usually occur while you are asleep. If you wake up its best to pretend that you’re still asleep as knife attacks are common too.
13. Snorkelling and diving locations worthy of a visit are at Lipah, Lovina, Amed, Nusa Lembongan ands Nusa Cenningen, the Crystal Bay on Nusa Penida and even the reef off Sanur.

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THINGS TO DO – some common, some exotic.

1. Reflexology, Jl Kartika Plaza, opp side to Dynasty. A$13 for 1 hr.
2. Read ‘Bali Sun’ newspaper, ‘Jakarta Post’ for interesting light on local news. (‘Bali Post’ is in Indonesian.)
3. Go to Java, but with care. Java is a predominantly Muslin country whilst Bali is mainly more peaceful Hindu. These two parts of Indonesia are quite different. From the southern tourist areas it is about 4 hours to Gillimanuk ion the north west coast where the ferry to Ketapang Harbour (in the Banyuwangi Regency of Java) departs. You can drive your own car or take a bus (Akas Bus Co). If in your own car you must keep awake to maintain your place in the queue to get on the ferry. This can take from a few minutes to 5 or 6 hours on a public holiday. The busses will have priority to get on the ferry. The ferries are old Japanese surplus with a scungy shop, a rabid lounge area with foreign language re-runs of imported soap operas and a sun deck swept cleanish by the wind and waves from which you can check your progress by the approach of the Mount Merapi volcano caldera in East Java. The crossing takes about 1 1/2 hours and costs from Rp15,000 in the bus to Rp 30,000 for a small car. Most of the passengers are not tourists but locals and business people who will be happy to chat and give you a different (honest?) view of Indonesia and Indonesians.
4. Unda Adventures White-water Rafting, run finishes at Klungkung. A$45 inc lunch. Tickets at BaliAussi Rest. No steps to climb at the end (some have over 300!) Can be got for US$35pp. Instead of US$65.
5. Bali Safari Rafting – Telaja Waga river – faster & longer. Good buffet meal too. Take camera. Good showers and Restaurant after. 300 steps! ‘Better than Sobek’. May now (2001) have been bought out by Sobek and called Telaga River Rafting.
6. Sobek Rafting. Operates on both the Ayung and Telaja Waga rivers. The Ayung is the less frightening river but it has many steps down to and up from the river. The Ayung is in central southern Bali (around Ubud and above) with great scenery and the Telaga Waja is to the east, about an hour’s more driving.
7. Bali International Rafting runs on the same river as Bali Rafting but fewer steps to and from river. About 80 down and 90 back up.
8. Ubud Sari Massage and Spa. ($$$)
9. Helicopter Flights. Bali Adventure Tours US$45 (min 3 people) for Kuta Beach flight.
   Also Air Bali, helicopter and seaplane tours . www.airbali.com .
   Not cheap but the sights are out of this world. Have a look for the coffee table book, Bali From the Air, R Ian Lloyd and Joseph Yogerst. ISBN 981 00 5332 0.
10. Air Bali also has helicopter tours available. There is a southern circuit (about 1 hour) and a mountain loop (about 1.5 hours). Their office is at Dewa Runci Building, Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai 100X, Kuta Bali Indonesia. Ph 767 466 or 766 582. Fax 766 581. E-mail [email protected]. Web sites http://www.airbali.com/ and http://www.balihelicopters.com/.
11. Day trips to Lembongan Island by new fast-cat ferry, Lembongan Express Service. Departs daily at 8.30 am from Kesumasari Street in Sanur beach or pick-up from your hotel. Return to Bali 4.45 pm. Book on 287 431 on 761 744. US$15pp incl pick-up. http://lembongan-discovery.com .
12. Bali Hai Cruises to Lembongan Island. Much cheaper to book in Oz – A$ 95 for the Reef Cruise, A$105 for the Beach Club Cruise with water & land activities (cf US$85 in Bali). Contact Jenny in Oz, [email protected]. Open date tickets available to ensure good weather. Web site http://www.balihaicruises.com/. At times (perhaps with some staff) the Sunset Cruises have attracted criticism – ‘terrible food’, ‘poor service’, ‘treated like pests’.
13. The Bounty is similar but landing on Lembongan is a bit of a trial at times. A$80.
14. See a movie. There is a new theatre in the Duty Free Stores (DFS) in the Galleria Complex near Matahari on Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass. Rp15,000.
15. WaterBom Park is now known as WaterPark and is great fun for kids – little and big. It’s $15US+10% entry fee is not cheap (Rp516,000 for a family). Discount vouchers are available in many places, including 20% at places in the Kuta Markets which brings it down to about Rp425,000 or Aus$85 for a family. The BBQ corn is good, as is other food, and the prices quite reasonable. Take your own towels as they are not cheap to hire there and a large deposit is asked. Travel light as lockers for storage of your possessions is also expensive. Check current rates and activities at http://www.waterbom.com/ . Security has recently been stepped up several big notches.
16. Batubulan, a little north of Denpasar is a noted Stone sculpture and dance centre. The Dances are about $10 a head. Do go to the toilet before you attend. The local loos are real dunnies!

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INTERNET / MOBILE PHONES.

Internet Cafes are everywhere. About Rp300 (app A6cents)/minute. Alternative Rp4,000(A$0.80)/half hour minimum, Rp8,000(A$1.60)/hour. Some are fast and good value. Some have slow connections; missing letters on keyboards etc.
By comparison most hotel business offices are very expensive and not generally quicker.

Bali Cyber Café in Rum Jungle Road is a favourite of many for its coffee, food, drinks and reading material –but the connection speed is typical of Bali all over.

One of the fastest Cafes is in Ubud in the mail street next to the Neka Gallery and about 50 paces from the Post Office. Called Highway it is owned by an enthusiast who takes pride in his Pentium 4 PC’s and fast Apple Macs on fibre optic networks and satellite. Open 24 hours every day. Ph (0361) 972 107. Web site www.highwaybali.com .
If you’re lucky enough to be staying in the Villa Bali Impian Suites (run by Bali Travel Forum) you will have access to their fast business network for free. 256K access to the internet through Indosat and WiFi will be operational shortly. (Oct ’04).
Also fast by Bali standards is the Internet shop opposite the Barong hotel in Kuta/Legian.

GlobalNet on Jl Raya Kerobokan also has its supporters.
If you’re travelling north of the tourist areas you will probably pass through the township of Kerobokan, north Legian/Seminyak, on the way to Tanah lot temple or Tabanan or Bedugul, or perhaps even Ubud although it’s a bit of off this track to the left (west). Just before Kerobokan there are traffic lights at the Cangu Road turn-off. The second street on the left past the lights is Jl Raya Semer and at number 9 you’ll find the Globe Café, which has a very trendy menu, nice classical music in the background, A/C and satellite Internet connections. Sounds like a long way to go for your e-mail but it’s a very nice drive, a bit off the beaten track and with some lovely rural scenery. It’s also on the way to the orphanage at the village of Tuka, about 5 Km further on.
You can probably use your hotel phone connection to connect a lap top computer to the Internet. If you have to dial a number (commonly 9) to get an outside line, or have to go through a PABX system, follow the number with a comma to generate a pause in the dialling process. The number for Telcomnet connection to the ‘net is 9,080 989 999, User ID – ‘telcomnet’, password ‘telkom’ – ‘finish’. Your hotel will charge you for a local call. 
If you need to enter computer type details try these – for Outlook via telcom net @ instan; Incoming mail (POP 3) server: pop3.telkom.net and Outgoing mail (SMTP) server: smtp.telkom.net. You might find it useful to read the information at http://mail.telkom.net/.
An alternative communication route is http://www.mail2web.com/ where you can send & receive E-mail from your own ISP account. You will need to enter your own password and e-mail address.
Another source of these details is at the Forum site, http://www.baliguide.com/. These details are always updated if any information changes for any reason.

Don’t forget to take your e-mail addresses (and phone numbers) with you, or before you leave open a Hotmail connection and enter all of the addresses that you will want to send messages to from Bali.  Hotmail will undoubtedly be found most easily on the top of the ‘Favourites’ or ‘Bookmarks’ list of almost every computer you sit at.
Most likely your ISP e-mail has a transfer facility that will send copies of your own e-mails to the Hotmail address also.

Second hand mobile phones are available from the top floor of the Ramayana department store in Denpasar. Approx Rp850,000. New phones are Rp1.2-1.4 million. A pre-paid card for use in Bali is about Rp300,000.

At the Bali Galeria, top floor, Nokia 6220 camera-phone, new, was about half the Aussie price. Simply slip in your own sim card and away you go.

1. With pre-paid Express cards you get competitive rates. Calling from outside Oz does not attract GST. A15 cent connection fee + A40 cent surcharge and A$0.88 / minute.
   Note that you cannot SMS with pre-paids from Bali to Oz.
2. Your carrier, eg Otpus, Telstra, etc will e-mail you rates for using your phone in Bali. Calls are very expensive, averaging around Aus$6 per minute. SMS’s are much cheaper at about 50 cents each. If you need to phone home use the local Wartels (telephoning shops) which are government run (many are also the best money changers in Bali, particularly for Travellers Cheques) where the costs are about Rp9,000 per minute (About Aus$1.20).
3. ‘International Mobile Roaming’ – Keep your number and have calls charged to your home account in Oz dollars.  Can be set up by phoning Optus or Telstra before you leave. Aus$9.00/min to Aust. off peak depending on the local carrier you select.  Telconsel seems cheapest.  SMS is the same rate as in Oz.  Friends call you from Oz for app 90 cents/min.
4. Calling (or text messaging) to Oz from Bali with your phone add 0011 61 before the number.
5. If you are concerned about having your phone stolen and a huge bill being run up on it try this. Make a record of your phones serial number (dial *#06#. A 15-digit code number will appear. Write it down and keep it safe. )  If your phone is stolen advise your provider and quote the number.  They can then block your phone from further use, even if the sim card is changed. The thief may then throw it away and it may be found and returned to you if you’re lucky.
6. SMS messages cheap. A$0.22 / message of up to 160 characters. Not on pre-paids.
7. You can buy a SIM card for you phone in Bali. Rp 88,000 which includes Rp 75,000 of calls or SMS locally or to Oz. Rp350 for SMS. A 5 min call to Oz is about Rp60,000. Top-up cards of various sizes are readily obtainable and you can keep the unused credit (and the SIM) for your next visit.
8. Some travellers who did not do their homework and make arrangements before leaving home have had A$600+ bills. One caller found Aus$90 bill for 15 min. call!
9. Pre-paid mobile credit cards from Simpati, most expensive but strong signal. Rp300,00 upwards. Mentari; no incoming SMS if you run out of credit. No ‘roaming fee’ when out of Bali. Pro XL. Cheapest and good reception. No ‘roaming fee’, SMS incoming even if credit exhausted.
10. Dual band phones – change to 900/1800 in Bali – network search. Dial locals with 0361 prefix or 081 for mob-mob calls.
11. Telstra ‘Phoneaway’ cards can be used in Bali. They have a messaging service that can be accessed also. Use on any landline.
12. ‘Wartels" are public phone shops, common in the south particularly, with reasonable rates. You direct-dial and a meter on the wall records the cost as you go. When finished you pay the shopkeeper. Many also have authorised money changing facilities that are honest with best rates. They require only a photocopy of your passport to change Travellers’ Cheques. Fast, friendly, efficient.
13. Use www.mail2web.com to view your home e-mail account.
14. For long SMS messages try using an internet café – web.icq.com/sms/ICQ for Optus, Telstra and Vodaphone. You need to be registered.
    Also www.smspup.com.au/SMSPUP. Free after you register. You’ll get at least 1 junk mail/week to meet costs.
15. Bali@Cyber Café Restaurant is OK. You can connect your own laptop here. Food is OK too.
16. Legian Cyber in Sahadewa Street Legian. Run by nengah_bali, a regular poster on the Bali Travel Forum. They have card readers for Compacta Flash, Memory Stick, Smart Media and memory cards. They also have a CD burner and blank CD’s for your downloads. Burning Rp25,000 includes disc, Rp15,000 on your own disc.
17. Avoid Legian Internet Café. Slow, poorly staffed.
18. If you need your daily sports/news fix from Oz, try www.homesick.com.au/index.html.

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TOILETS, LOOS AND DUNNIES !

A Balinese ‘dunny’ is a traveller’s worst nightmare – and the worst of the worst is probably one you’ll be asked to pay for! I’ve frequently seen stalwart companions-in-need get just inside the door (opening really), do a U turn and exit without perceptible pause, looking pallid and strained.

Don’t think for one minute that nice shops, department stores, or even hotels at times, will have anything other than DUNNIES! Above all, don’t expect toilet paper. ALWAYS take your own for emergencies. It’s as important as money as soon as you leave your hotel. And remember your dear old mother’s advice, "Always go before you leave home."

Have disinfectant hand wash/wipe with you just in case. Aquium from Oz or Antis from some supermarkets in Bali.

I well remember our unspoken preference for eating at the Rama Bridge in Kuta Square for many years. The Bintang was icy cold, the food was good and the price was cheap – but more important than any of these was the fact that they had TOILETS – not DUNNIES! Regrettably, things are not as good there as they were, but I’d still head that way in an emergency.

For an expose on Bali Toilet use that every (female) traveller should read go to www.balitravelforum.com/archive200301/78523.html.

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I hope the following will grow as more travellers add to the lists –

1.      Rated A++  TOILETS – (In which you can take your ease with out concerns.)  Papa’s Restaurant – "The Best In Bali" according to ‘Mango’. Dirty Duck Restaurant, Ubud. TJ’s Mexican. The Holiday Inn, Tuban. You pay at the Bird Park but it’s rated at 11/10. Pacung Indah Restaurant, Ubud. Is this the same as the Pacung Indah in Bedugul which Rosemary says is the best in Bali? Bali Qui Restaurant. Carusoes on the beachfront in Seminyak. Poco Loco Restaurant, Legian. Bakery Restaurant at Gazebo Hotel. Lo’s Warung. Kori’s. Kunyit Restaurant. Ku-de-Ta. Aroma’s – cleanest and most attractive in Bali. Macaroni Club. Kin Khao restaurant, Tuban. Aromas Café in Legian Street has new facilities (’02). La Lucciola Restaurant. The ‘Gunnas’ restaurant, the Indo-National Bar & Restaurant on Jl Sahadewa 13D between Melasti and Padma streets, Poppies Restaurant in Poppies Lane (‘Gang’) I. MacDonald’s Restaurants are also good. The Neka Gallery in Ubud is worth a visit for another reason too. Mamas German Restaurant. Paddies Bar – there’s even a bloke to hold the hand towel for you, perhaps to ensure you don’t pinch it? Peppino’s restaurant in Peppito’s Supermarket, Jl Kediri 36A, Tuban. “Floors you could eat off”! Papas on the beach at Kuta. Rumours Restaurant in ‘Eat Street’, Jl Laksmana, Kerobokan.

 

2.  Rated D-  LOOS – (When you really need to go these will do the job – but only just.)  The Rama Bridge, Kuta Square. The Pantai Restaurant, Tuban. The SA Café, Tuban. TJ’s Mexican, Poppies Lane, Kuta. Dolphins Leather, Legian. Dewi Sri Restaurant, Kuta. Copa Café, Tuban. Ramayana near the Kuta Beach markets. Poppies in Poppies Lane II. Benno’s Café and Bar in Sanur at Sindhu Beach.

3.  Be-rated XXX  DUNNIES – (You’ve really got to be desperate! Take a deep breath, roll up your trousers, tip toe with the utmost care, peep around the corner – and then decide that you can wait.)  The Matahari Department Store, Kuta, upgraded in ’02 and now probably fitting into the ‘Loo’ category. The Sukawati Markets. Rajah’s Café near Matahari’s. Fat Yogi’s restaurant. Denpasar Markets. Bali Rock Restaurant & Bar (but the rats are very friendly).  The Elephant Temple (in)conveniences – ‘Dim, Dark and Dank’. Ramayana Department store in Denpasar. ‘Can you use a toilet with only one hand, because your other will be needed to hold your nose.’ Don’t ever contemplate sitting.  Sharkey’s restaurant at Jimbaran Bay.

When all else fails and disaster approaches, pick the best-looking hotel within an attainable distance and plead your case. Most have a toilet near the foyer and if your acting is good enough they might find that extra bit of kindness in order to prevent an ‘accident’ on their front steps. If you were in this debilitating state you would be wise to have included a dose or two of Imodium in your Bum Bag (sorry about the name) so you can leave in dignity.

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DRIVERS

For short trips use a ‘Taksi’ or a local ‘Bemo” (mini bus).
Some tourists also use them for long distance transport (Airport to Lovina) after negotiating a fee of the one-way meter fee to Lovina plus 20% for the driver’s return trip. This worked out to be a bit over Rp120,000 which is not bad.
Blue Bird cabs are honest, others are often not. Look for the name ‘Blue Bird Group’ and a ‘Taxi’ (not ‘Taksi’) roof sign on the cab as dishonest operators with rigged meters are also painting their cabs sky blue now. Some other cabs have ‘accelerated’ meters. Watch out for drivers who do not cancel the previous trip fare on the meter and therefore charge you that in addition to your real fare..
Flag fall now (June 2002) Rp4,000 off the street or Rp8,000 if you phone to call one and the rate / kilometre is Rp2,000. 
Waiting time Rp20,000 per hour.
For more than 4 people, or with lots of luggage, take 2 taxis.
Don’t use the travel agents’ airport to hotel transfer services unless you’re on a business-will-pay-for-it trip. Use the taxi voucher desk at the airport for fixed price trips or if you’re lightly loaded then walk out of the airport and turn right at the gate for a line-up of Bluebird cabs. 
Some travellers say don’t hail a cab in the airport unless you want to be ripped off big-time, but use the fixed price Taxi desk just to the right as you exit from customs into the turmoil and mayhem of waiting hotel transfer drivers. This is always significantly cheaper than the transfer charges made by tour agencies. Other travellers swear by the bargains (and speedy availability) offered by drivers waiting in the car park. Bargaining is needed and knowledge of the fixed-rate cab charges is essential.

FARES:
Sanur/Kuta Rp20,000. Sanur/Matahari’s, Denpasar Rp15-20,000, a bit more to Ramayana Dept store. Bemos in Sanur Rp1,000 (have the right money – ‘no change’), Denpasar Bemo Rp2,000.

Fares by taxis are (for the daytime – there may be a 30% surcharge at night)-
Kuta /Denpasar Rp 16,000. Kuta – Ubud Rp75,000. Kuta – Denpasar Rp16,000.

Seminyak to Sanur – Rp30,000.

Airport to Tuban Rp15,000. Airport to Barong (Kuta) Rp 20,500, further into Kuta Rp25,000. Airport to Legian Rp25,000. Airport to Sanur Rp55,000; (new fare at Sept ’02 rates).  Airport to Nusa Dua Rp35,000.  Airport to Seminyak Rp27,500, (New fare at Sept ’02 rates.)  Airport to Candi Dasa Rp150,000. Airport to Ubud Rp90,000.

To go further afield a Blue Bird Group taxi from the airport to Kintamani will cost Rp 245,000. Note that you can probably bargain for a Kijang off the street for an 8 hour day for this figure but an organised tour booked through your hotel might be twice this figure.

Driver and small 4WD ‘Kijangs" can be hired for less than Rp250,000 per 8 hour day, petrol included. Kijangs carry 3 (+ driver) in easy comfort – 4+ driver without anyone getting too squashed for too long. Larger capacity mini-buses are available but not common. It’s so cheap you can easily take two Kijangs if necessary. An 8-hour day will get you to almost anywhere on the island and back to your hotel if you don’t take a 2 hour lunch.

Motor bike hire is not something to be recommended for those without a death wish, but if you’re determined you can hire small bikes for about Rp20-25,000/day. Longer is cheaper. Good to take your own helmet, or buy an old one from 2^nd hand shop. It will be better than the plastic bowl you’ll be offered there. You might get a better rate if you offer to leave the helmet with them when you finish. Be careful to check insurance – yours and the bikes. Have an International licence (About $20 and 10 minutes to fill out the form at your local Auto Association. You’ll need a passport size photo.) or get one locally at a Polisi Station. You will almost certainly be stopped on the road and your paperwork must be in order or you will need a fat wallet.

Europeans driving, or riding m/bikes, are regularly stopped by police for ‘licence checks’! Donations to the Policemen’s Ball are welcomed and reduce the delays. Motorbikes can be hired from Rp25,000/day for an extended period. Shorter hires cost more. Aussies can be issued with a local licence by taking their home licence and a passport photo to a Polisi station. If you have not got a home endorsement for ‘bikes you will not get your Bali licence endorsed for them, but some travellers take the chance that there will not be a close inspection when they are stopped on the street. If you do hire a bike tie something easily identifiable onto it because there will be dozens that look just like yours when you park it.

Make very sure that you have insurance and try to get the hirer to pose with the bike for a photo. It could be handy when he says you’ve pranged it and wants you to pay or tries to keep your deposit.

If you are determined to drive try Sari Bunga Wangi, a car hire company that seems to be (unusually?) honest and with full insurance on the vehicles. Kijangs in good condition with insurance (US$1,000) at Rp170,000/day, Jimneys about Rp110,000.

Perhaps the largest, easily hired vehicle is an open bus that seats up to 13. It is run by Robbie, ph 0812-390 5045. Costs are about Rp250,000/day which is very reasonable even without the ice-filled esky Robbie will provide for your drinks.

Dewa Pujana has a 7 seat A/C Mitsubishi wagon for hire. Ph 081 2368 7214.

Bemo fares now Rp1,000. Blue Bemo Sanur/Denpasar Rp2,000. Have correct money – change is (gratefully) taken as a tip!

Shuttle Bus, Kuta to Sanur Rp1,500 pp.

Licensed drivers have plates ending with ‘S’, are insured & not stopped by police, but they’re hard to find on the streets.

Most drivers will pick you up anywhere and take you anywhere. A$50 (Rp250,000) for full day (8 hour) trip is the maximum. Regulars, ‘in-the-know’, pay Rp150,000 for 10 hours from their regular drivers.

Be wary of drivers who appear to get a lot of exposure on the www! They may be very expensive and not necessarily very good. Generally you’ve paid too much if the driver is very anxious to book you up for tomorrow!

1. Wayan Suka, 411 956 (personally used 1999).
2. I Made Dera at local stand by entrance to Holiday Inn. (Personally used ’99 & ’00 & ‘03.) (0361) 756 825, or 764 112.
3. Nyoman Nepoyana (***). Driver & goods freight, contact for carvers, jewellery etc. Quality but not always cheap. [email protected] Ph 912 012
4. Dewa Made Adiwisma, (*)[email protected] 081 239 13992
5. Wayan Dira, 081 239 322 75.
6. Wayan Sueta & Gusti Suberta [email protected]. Mob 081 239 29762 (if outside Indonesia call + 62 81 239 29762. Wayan is based in Ubud but knows all of Bali very well. http://www.hiddenbali.com : [email protected] or @indo.net.id or @hotmail.com.
7. Agung Sueta, 361 974 909, Mob 081 239 22957, [email protected] . Good for off the tourist track. Rp300,000/day.(!).
8. Bayu Sampurna, 62 818 556957.
9. Wayan Merta – phone 081 138 6761, fax 0361 426 826,  www.bali-paradise/seebali/index.html. E-mail at - [email protected]. I have it on good authority that Wayan reads John Grisham novels (that may or may not attract tourists to him as a driver and guide, depending on your literary tastes), comprehends and uses English so well that he understands jokes (now if you think about it that’s a real test of language and a real plus when you’re with someone perhaps 8 hours a day) and his charges are the same no matter where you are staying or where he is. Unlike a lot of local drivers he’ll take you where you want to go, not where he gets most commission.
10. Magnum. ? www.companyon the web.com/magnum/ Many posts laud his quality & knowledge. Some postings suggest that when Magnum is busy the drivers he sends in his place are not as good as he is. Some posts suggest that single females should not use him.
11. Sang Made Drama, [email protected]
12. Putu Armada, ‘The Real Bali’, http://tokek.freeyellow.com/page1.html
13. Wayan Nama, [email protected].
14. Gede Ariana. Has Mitsubishi Colt 7 seater with A/C rather than the more common 3-4 seat Kijang. Good English.  Fully insured with Tourist Authority credentials that is an unusual safeguard amongst drivers in Bali. Usually found outside Baruna Hotel, Sanur. Ph 361 29 9411 (home), 361 28 9291 (Fax), 8123 955 640 (Mobile), E-mail [email protected].
15. Made Suartawan. [email protected]
16. Nyoman Suastika. Excellent English language. Lives near Ubud but will work anywhere in the island without extra charge. 5 seat A/C Kijang. Ph (0361) 980 027, [email protected]. A guide to out-of-the-way places as well as a safe driver.
17. In Ubud try Wayan Sarma, usually parked outside the Ananda Cottages, Mob; 081 398 2229, e-mail [email protected].
18. Also in Ubud there is Nyoman Danu, usually at the intersection of Monkey Forest Road and Main Street, across from the palace. Ph; 978 320
19. Kung Saga also operates in Ubud, based near the Lotus Restaurant. Mob; 081 239 78729. E-mail; [email protected] and [email protected].
20. Nyoman Bagus is also in Ubud, at th top of Monkey Forest Road. [email protected].

 

4. TIMES and DISTANCES.

Often, western tourists are not prepared for the style of road use and traffic conditions found in Bali. Indeed, many are quite concerned during their first trip in the more populous areas. There is a veritable sandstorm of small motorbikes (about 100 cc capacity) weaving in and out of the traffic with the greatest of comfort and ease, even when they are carrying a family of 5 and a mile high pile of temple offerings plus a chook or two. The second most numerous vehicles are small 4 WD-type cars/wagons which are delivering or waiting for hire.

The drivers of these hire vehicles are the ones who endlessly chant the call, ‘Transport Boss?’.

Traffic speed is generally quite slow, 10 – 15 kph being quite common at busy times. Vehicles drive almost nose to tail, even through corners, and merging traffic fits into spaces that pedestrian wouldn’t try to walk through.

There is no visible road rage or impatience on the island. A toot or two on the horn is always taken as a ‘Please excuse me’ signal.

I have a table which gives distances and very approximate trip times between popular tourist centres for 4 people in an average, middle-aged Kijang. Times can easily double at peak hours, in rain, where the road is under repair, if the army is using the road, if a security guard has stopped the traffic to allow a tourist or two to cross, if a dog has priority or a flock of ducks is being taken across the road to a new rice paddy. When two or more of these things coincide there is no point in trying to hurry. This is a time to enjoy ‘jam karet’ – ‘Bali time’, which is often no time at all.

This table will not up-load to these web pages (well, I can’t make it upload.) but if you’re interested then E-mail me and I’ll send you a copy in MS Word format.

The sort of information it contains is;

      From the airport to Kuta it is 4 km and it will take about 15 minutes, very roughly, by ‘Taksi’.

      From Legian to Bedugul it is 58 km and the trip will take about 2 hours by Kijang in average conditions.

      From Sanur to Amed it is 110 km and the journey will take about 3 and 1/4 hours.

      From Gillimanuk to Kerobokan it is 145 km and this trip will take about 2 hours.

      Seminyak to Ubud is about 1.5 hours.

      Seminyak to Ulu Watu, a bit less than an hour.

Seminyak to Tanah Lot – Half an hour.

Seminyak to Mount Batur – 2.5 hours. Ubud to Amed – 3 hours.

      Ubud to Mt Batur – 1.5 hours. Ubud to Lovina 2.5 hours.

If any Bali residents or well travelled tourists would like to check the accuracy of the information I would be happy to have the feedback.

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ACCOMMODATION –

In the quieter areas of Bali you might want to use earplugs if you don’t want the roosters to wake you before dawn.

Be nice to the locals who work in the hotel. They are humans also and the time might come when they can provide little extra services for you. Kindness, courtesy and consideration frequently seem to be rewarded in Bali. It is the Balinese way, part of their very strong culture!

If your hotel has an ice machine(s) it is a travelling boon. Just fill up a carry bag before you leave on a trip (or even to the pool for a day) and take your own food and drinks with you. The Holiday Inn has machines on each floor and the Dynasty has at least one. By contrast the Sheraton at Nusa Dua (and probably others also) charges outrageous prices for a bag of ice.

Hotel meals are quite expensive by Bali’s ‘outside’ standards. Near your hotel will be a wide choice of restaurants, cafes and ‘warungs’ (the Bali equivalent of fast food outlets) that will serve you the same food at much cheaper prices. Quite often now the chefs (cooks) in these establishments also work, or did work, in the kitchens of the hotels.

It is considered to be the height of rudeness to ‘book’ a sun lounge by the hotel pool (by placing a personal or hotel towel on it) and then wandering off and not using it. Such rudeness often returns to the perpetrator when the towel has been removed on their return and the final hotel bill includes payment for the missing item.

Amongst dozens of others in the following ‘Districts’ lists below, these hotels are commonly used by travellers;

1. Holiday Inn Tuban. (Now known as the Bali Hai Resort & Spa.)  Our favourite.  A little tired but compact, right on the beach, friendly and quiet, but convenient to wild side of southern Bali such as Kuta, Legian.
2. Pondok Vienna Beach, Amed/Lipah (for east coast?).
3. Bali Rani, Tuban. Guest relations - Denny.
4. Melasti Beach Resort. Popular but not always lauded. Average breakfasts and tired staff. (’04) although others say it is good value for the cost.
5. Rosani Hotel. A$15 including breakfast. Book through Harvey World Travel.
6. Pondok Sari, Permuteran Bay.
7. Avoid the Lakeview Hotel at Kintamani. Many visitors would recommend that you avoid Kintamani totally as you will find there the most unpleasant and aggressive rip-off merchants in all of Bali.

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PLACES RECOMMENDED BUT SOME LOCATIONS UNKNOWN, OTHERS DON’T QUITE FIT INTO A SPECIFIC DISTRICT IN PART 3 (below).

1.   Jituwaluh Rice terraces – ‘I used a whole roll of film –‘

2.  Kedaton – bats and monkeys.

3.  The beach at Padangbai.

4.  Padang Padang beach. Access is through a cave. Golden sand. Water warm, 3 km from Ulu Watu.

5.  Dreamland Beach is small, but beautiful. Near the village of Pecatu on the southern Bukit Peninsula –further south than Jimbaran Bay or Nusa Dua – on the road to the spectacular cliff-top temple of Pura Ulu Watu. There are a few stalls and deckchair vendors but little else. The local area is popular with surfers. The area and approach road had a lot of money spent on it when the ill-famed Tommy Suharto (son of the more famous President) ‘bought’ land from the local owners intending to develop a tourist money-spinner or an exotic personal hide-a-way. Since his fall from grace the local land owners have moved back to re-claim what they perhaps feel was stolen from them and have systematically destroyed much of the development but now themselves display the skills (?) that they learnt from Tommy and have set up various toll roads and road blocks to milk the fatted cow of tourism for their own gains. In the process they argue amongst themselves and in turn destroy their own works from time to time. Dreamland Beach has perhaps become the archetypal paradise within the gates of hell.  It’s still a Dreamland Beach with startling azure water colour and the unfinished Sukarno beach house. A Kijang and driver who will wait for you costs about Rp95, 000.

6.  Melanting temple near Permuteran.

7.  Batu Keru in the coffee growing district in central north Bali has spectacular scenery.

8.  Tegallalang for handcrafts.

9.  Tanah Lot temple is on the coast about 15 km west of Denpasar, or about 20 km northwest from Kuta. It is renowned for the views at sunset.

10.    Taman Ayung temple at Mengwi, about 15 – 20 km northwest of Denpasar. Photos at http://www.geocities.com/filo_1au/NorthPhotos.html Approaching across a bridge, lawns and water gardens, you can walk around the low brick wall and moats that surround the temple and see right into the inner compounds. The high ‘candi bentar’ (split entrance gates) are magnificent. Far more peaceful than other temples where there can be aggressive hawkers and ‘temple touts’.

11.     Uluwatu temple is on a spectacular site but there are untrustworthy monkeys, pesky hawkers and off-hand guides.

12.    The Mother Temple at Besakih is awesome but the temple “guides” are thuggish and demand exorbitant fees for no service. The sellers are by far the worst in all of Bali. A place to miss!

13.    There are two Gunung Kawai temples. The water temple one has water gardens and fish ponds. It is near the village of Sebatu in the district of Tampaksiring. The other has huge rock carvings on each bank of the river although there are a lot of steps to negotiate to see them. Little known parts of these carvings include a part called the Tenth Tomb and deep canyons known as the Cloisters. Ask for directions or a guide at the shop nearest the small bridge.

14.    Bougainville Pizzaria. Sekar Nusa Resort.

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PART 3  –  SPECIFIC  DISTRICT  INFORMATION.

 

# 1 - TUBAN/KUTA DISTRICT SECTION.

 For the story of one of our stays in this area, with some photos, click on this link - www.geocities.com/filo_1au/PhotosDay5_10.html .

Taxi from Tuban to Legian Rp40,000. Look also at Legian/Seminyak (next section) as the boundaries are not clear between these districts.

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SHOPPING

Matahari Department store, Kuta Square by Kuta markets. A large, western style store, with a reliable PT Central money changing agency.
Norman (Nyoman?) at Bali Aromas opposite Kartika Plaza Hotel has also been recommended as an honest moneychanger.

Supernova Store. On Jl Raya Kuta a bit south of Bemo Corner. Go east along Jl Bakung Sari, right at the lights into Jl Raya Kuta, + 200 mtr to corner of Jl Mekar Sari.
Mall Bali Galleria is on Jl Raya By Pass Ngurah Rai. It is similar to the Galleria in Nusa – maybe not quite so expensive but some exquisite shops.

Macro Super Store is on Jl Ngurah Rai By Pass, No. 222X, SESETAN, Denpasar 80223, between Sanur & Suwung village, on the left going from Kuta to Sanur. Taxis know it well. A$1 to enter. No children allowed. No free bags for goods. Very cheap prices for bulk purchases. http://www.makro.co.id/.

Alpha Store. Jl Imam Bonjol Kuta. Easier to enter than Macro. " . . from a needle to an anchor . . ".

K Circle (or Circle K) Supermarkets are becoming fairly common. They are not quite as cheap as others and are owned and franchised from ‘off-shore’. Smaller locally owned street stores are usually better for drinks etc. as well as being convenient to most hotels.

Pepito’s Supermarket in Tuban on the road towards the airport, about ½ Km past the dogleg to the left in the road.

Next door to Pepito’s is SVS Meats. Factory run by German ex-pat. Very clean. Try the smoked meats for nibble with a Bintang or two pre-dinner.
There is a wine and spirits shop on Jl Legian about 20 paces on your left as you leave Bemo corner walking towards the airport.

LEATHER – Remember that you will only get the quality that you pay for.

1. Dolphins Leather – also shoes. Our favourite. Menuh Street, between Melasti & Padma Streets, Legian. 755 278. They don’t use goatskins. They do use good quality thread, zips etc. Frequent Forum recommendations over several years.
2. Ouizis, Legian/Kuta. Down alley.
3. French Leatherwear, Jl Sahadewa #4 off Melasti. ‘Mat’, not cheap. ¾ length sheep leather coat A$135 April ’02.  Some unhappy customers in 2002.
4. Leather – Brown Sugar. Jl Padma, Legian.
5. Leather. Jl Legian, opposite Loji II Mini Market.
6. Padma leather, Suede jacket A$50.
7. Nickels Leather not good. Top end of Legian.
8. Avoid R & A Leather near McDonalds in Kuta – bad measure/fit. Repeated warnings from sad customers.
9. Soldig Leather. Small side street off Legian road. Suede jacket copied from photo A$180 – original $2000. Their standard designs are cheaper.
10. Lembi Leather. Run by Made (“Mardee”), he will come to your hotel with a full range of leather samples and catalogues. His English is good (perhaps as a result of his Oz wife?).  Be measured and fitted in privacy and the coolness of your A/C room. He will frankly talk to you about the various qualities of leather he can offer and your finished work WILL be in the leather you select. Ph 0812 394 309 or 758 233. His shop is in Tuban but difficult to find.  www.bali-paradise.com/lembi . Very popular with Forum posters in 2002.
11. TAILORS. – Again, remember that you will only get the quality that you pay for.
    
    Eni Tailor, Jl Wana Segara, Tuban. Our favourite. Ask for Yo Yan. Good range of micro fibre cloth and linen. Take your own stiffenings, interfacings, etc that may not be common in tropical clothing manufacture, and zips if you’re fussy about their quality. Bali zips are often poor, particularly in heavy leather types. Get fittings done in your cool hotel room if it is hot and you’re a bit sweaty and swollen.
12. Rhamadan Tailors, ‘James’, Poppies II.
13. Marrenda Tailor, Kartika Plaza St, Tuban.
14. Bali Sun, tailor, Jl Legian north of Melasti.
15. Linda’s Tailors, middle of Melasti Street. Jacket, pants and skirt (their microfibre material) A$80. Take your own material if you want something particular. This applies to all tailors. Ask for John. “12 complex pieces copied beautifully for US$100 in 3 days”.
16. Tidy Tailor, 759 403, near Waterbom Park opposite Dynasty.
17. Tailor, next to Hotel Intan – lane by Kodak – ‘Sarah’.
18. TopJas Tailors. Lane off Kartika Plaza opp Bakung Beach Cottages Tuban. Past other tailors. Aus$28/pr slacks incl material.
19. Exclusive Tailors under All Stars Café Kartika Plaza. Perfect Ball Gown Aus$50.
20. Mr Ansor. Brisbane Tailors. High quality tailoring at very cheap prices. Rp40,000 to make up shirts of trousers from your material. In Jl Padma Utara turn right at the end of Bali Dwira Hotel. He’s about 50 paces down the lane on the left.
21. Franks in Padma Street.
22. Rochman the Tailor, in a small street behind Matahari’s in Kuta. A fairly large order of men’s and women’s clothes (14 items in total) worked out at A$38 per item.
23. Not Goanna Tailor, close to Ramayana.
24. Janako Tailors. Poppies II. Women’s business suit A$100, fully lined (material included), simple skirt A$35.
25. Bikinis, small lane off Poppies 2. A clothing factory. A$15 / pair. You can get other clothes made here also.
    GENERAL STUFF.

23. Milo’s, Kuta Sq., entrance to markets - SILK.

24. Dijon Deli near Kuta/Tuban. At the round-a-bout with statue of God coiled in serpent, about half way between Kuta and Sanur on the Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai. Go right around the garden centre on the corner to face Le Bake Café. Go right again and straight across the road. Less than 100 m. off the By Pass. European and Aussie goods. Imported – not cheap. Kuta Poleng Mall, Jl Setiabudhi. 759 636. E-mail [email protected]. There is a funny upside down map on their site under ‘About Dijon – Location’. http://www.dijon-bali.com/
25. Makro Wholesale Supermarket, save in bulk. Rp5000 to enter. Take carry bags. Go early in trip. Near Kuta.
26. Factory Stock Centre, Kuta Square Blok H #15 – clothing.
27. Surf wear Factory Outlrt on Jl Ngurah Rai By Pass.
28. Ratu Silver, 373 Jl Legian – Mr Masadi.
29. Rajawali Silver.
30. Bujangga Silver, Jl Tuban, Kuta – road to airport.
31. Surfer Girl.
32. Sarongs 5 for Rp100,000 on beach in front of Ramada Bintang Resort. See ‘Adi’.
33. WATCHES – Watches at Ubud and Sukawati Markets seem to be different in styles to the southern areas.
34. Fast Eddy. Jl Kartika Plaza Tuban. 756 755 Still as good as any and far better than any for repairs.
35. Tony Morrone, Jl Wana Segara, Tuban. 759 933. Good range. Reliable.
36. Eddie Murphy. On the beach at Bintang Hotel, Tuban.
37. Arifah, Shop No 22 at the Kuta markets. Good price if you’re a good bargainer.
38. Shop opposite Dolphins Leather in Melasti St. See note above.
39. Fixed price. Bagus Electronics, Legian St.
40. Shoes off the shelf. Ibu Striadi, Nyoman Rimpen, Shop No 93, Kuta Markets. Right down the back.
41. CD’s and software. Kuta is dearer than Denpasar. Be wary of the DVD’s, videos, PS1 & 2 games, etc from shops around the Kuta markets. Insist that you see them work – in the better shops you won’t have to ask.
42. Engineering software – Softcomp Centre. Two shops in Kuta – Jl Legion Kelod No 408C and Poppies II. E-mail [email protected] for list of titles. See other software outlets in the Denpasar District section, below.
43. Quality jewellery. Mayang Bali. Between Kuta markets and Matahari. Not all items are very expensive.
44. Melasti Street markets, also known as the Legian markets. Not so pushy.
45. Kuta Art Market No 97. Ni Wayan Suri. Cheaper than Tootsies in Sanur!
46. Wiras Fabric. Turn right off Jl Raya Kuta when coming from the airport (not near Bemo Corner in Kuta). Best range of fabrics – silks, cotton, furnishing fabric, sheeting, netting, ikats sarongs kabayas (upper female garment), and scarves.
47. For different gift ideas try Bali Boxes, Jl Dyana Pura 4, Kuta. Ph (62-0361) 731 415 or 731 637. www.baliboxes.com/frame/bbs_front.htm .
48. Kuta Galleria, ( not the Mall Bali Galleria), is similar to the one in Nusa Dua and also not cheap. Has a great International fabric shop, Alta Moda Fabrics, Unit 1A, No 25-29, ground floor. English wool – Rp124,00/metre, Italian embroidered linen – Rp101,500/metre, etc. There are no ‘market’ shops here but the goods are all high quality at better than home prices.
    There is also an Ace Hardware which is good for blokes to brose in while the Ladies are off elsewhere in the shops.
    Snack and coffee at Cherry’s Café is nice.
49. There is a fascinating fishing tackle shop not far from Matahari’s on Jl Blambangan No 2. Kuta. The range of gear will astound you. There are also shops in Denpasar.

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EATING - ‘

There are almost more restaurants, warungs and Cafes in Bali than there are shrines and temples. The quality of your food will sometimes depend on the individual chefs at the time and the service can vary as the staff goes on and off shifts.

‘Poppies is a rip-off,’ it’s been said. – Well, if it is you’ll get ripped off by friendly staff and get a good meal in a nice atmosphere.

1. Pantai Restaurant, has an absolute beachfront site on Jl Wana Segara (recently re-named Jl Jenggala), Tuban. Ph 753 196. Sunset dinner or breakfast.  Our most favourite.  Unbeatable million-dollar location as the sun goes down on the beach and the fishing boats light up.  Fransiskus Ruben is the manager and the apple of his eye is his little daughter Ema Christina.  Renovated 2000.  Pity the toilets are just 6/10.  Onion soup, Seafood Cocktails, crabs (small by Aussie standards but tasty) and other seafood, Indo, burgers etc. etc.  The resident dog is named Tata.  Owned by one of the staff and tolerated by all, he is a sleepy 7 year old trickster who will love your breakfast bacon.
2. SA Café, Jl Wana Segara, #31 Tuban. 754 551.  Our second favourite. Try to get the raised ‘bale’ with the tiled floor.  Good food, great value. Pity about the toilets, 4/10 even after a re-work in 2001.
3. Kin Khao, Thai. Jl Raya Seminyak #37, Kuta. 732 153.  High on our list.
4. Holiday Inn (now known as the Bali Hai Resort & Spa) theme nights are generally good. Not sure if they’re open to non-guests. 753 053.
5. Fat Yogis Kuta. Forget it unless you only want pizza. Some of the worst food we’ve been served. ‘How can you destroy noodles?’ ‘Is this chicken soup or chicken s—t?’ Indifferent service. Crook toilets.
6. Daddies, breakfast, Tuban. Opposite the Dynasty.
7. Poppies in Poppies Lane 1. Reliable and good. Generally don’t overcook seafood.
8. Hooeys - breakfast <Rp10, 000. (Peanuts Disco - traffic lights - left - half-minute walk.) Run by Felix. For teenagers and a bit above.
9. Burger Bar front of Hooeys, Melasti St. (Currywurst Roll**) Run by Kim & Eddy, 24 hours.
10. Ketapat, #109 Legian St.
11. Orchid Garden, Jl Melasti is now closed I believe but the staff and the menu have moved into the Ratu Restaurant in Poppies Gang II, opposite Pub Bagus..
12. Taman Gardens, Melasti St., Legian.
13. Bali Qui Jl Sahadewa, lane next to Dolphins. ‘Jimmy".
14. Legian Gardens Rest.
15. Indus, Jl Rayan near Pita Maha Hotel.
16. Rajas Cafe, Kuta Square.
17. Bali @ Cyber Café
18. Bali Too, Jl Melasti. (Partic. breakfast, Rp10,000).
19. Taman Gardens – (Taman Legian?) , Jl Melasti, Rp10,000 breakfast.
20. Antar Café, Kuta.
21. Bagus Pub, poppies Lane 2. (Forum mtg. place.)
22. Ketty Club, Poppies II,
23. Kori’s, Kuta. Poppies Lane 2.  758 605.  Not cheap but nice.  Another favourite.  Try the romantic little hut at the back of the restaurant.  Seating on cushions on the floor (no skirts please.) There is an enclosed airconditioned billiard room with separate bar, just to the right as you enter.
24. Goa 2000, Kuta.
25. Mad’s (Made’s?) Warung I ( BR Pande Mas – 755 297 Kuta) & II (Seminyak).
26. T.J’s., Kuta. Poppies Lane Kuta. 751 093 A favourite. Great Mexican. Toilets 3/10 after we’ve had a drink or two!
27. La Teras, Kuta (?).**** $$$$
28. Fukutura, (Japanese) Jl Legian, in Paradiso Hotel, Kuta.
29. Green Garden, free head massages while you wait. (2000). Spring rolls, garlic prawns, sauté sticks.
30. Kartika, on top of supermarket near Dynasty for breakfast, burgers and steaks.
31. Padma Restaurant. (not hotel), seafood.
32. LaPorchettas, Jl Legian
33. Bali Aussi - going downhill? Surly staff? V cheap b/fast, Rp7500 all u can eat. Patrons threatened by staff with knives and broken bottles for arguing about extra items on their bill !!! (’03).
34. Warung 96, Poppies II. Lunch & dinner. Very popular. At night patrons queue to enter. Cheap and quick service. Am. Or Indo. B/f Rp 6,000, Great pizzas & Nasi Goreng under Rp10,000. Highly recommended.
35. Aromas – vegetarian. Great selection of fabulous food – even for a non-vegetarian! Garden setting. Great toilets.
36. Mamas German Restaurant is something of a icon in island restaurants now. On Jl Legian but towards the Kuta end. Open 7/24.
37. Papas. Jl Pantai, Kuta. Great coffee – good meals.
38. Bali Aroma, Kartika Plaza (birds outside).
39. All Stars Surf Café, Tuban. Dress-up ‘Sumo Wrestling’ is great entertainment for the kids. Not cheap by Bali standards.
40. C-Line Art Café, 33 Jl Kartika Plaza, Tuban. Ph 751 285. Very clean and good food. Next to the Ramada Bintang Hotel.
41. Café Warisan, Kerobokan (just Nth Seminyak) Not cheap. French style.
42. Warung Yogya, local food. Jl Padma Utara, Kerobokan, near Garden View on north side.
43. Metro77X, opposite Go-carts. Highly recommended.
44. Dayu 1 next to Nagasari in Kuta. Also good happy hour.
45. Uncle Norms Bistro. Jl Melasti.
46. The Crown. Yogya (?) (Opposite Lojo Supermarket.)
47. Purnama Rest.
48. La Lucciola Rest. Book 703 838 *$*$*$*$.
49. Nagasari, Kuta. Average prices – live local bands.
50. Chi Chi, Mexican. Tuban.
51. Bakery in foyer of Kuta Paradiso and small hot dog stand just outside entrance.
52. Bali Seafood
53. La Monde. Jl Padma Utara on top of Loji’s supermarket.
54. Bad Billy’s (or Billy’s) Jl Sahadewa up from Bali Qui
55. Nusa Indah Bar & Restaurant Poppies I opposite Masa Inn. Clean, good selection, always hot and good staff.
56. YUM CHA: Emma’s, Galleria Kuta behind round-a-bout. (Recommended by Chinese nationals.) Matahari’s Food Hall.
57. Coconut Wharf – Ramada Bintang Resort. Tye Kartika (?) above the supermarket by the Santika entry. All-you-can-eat dinner and show Rp50,000
58. Chi Chi’s. Upstairs near Waterbom Park. Free Internet while you’re there.
59. Restaurant opposite Dynasty Hotel. Rp22, 000 great breakfasts! Internet upstairs Rp300/min.
60. Padma Club – Not recommended.
61. Tanjung Pinang warung has more to offer than the look of just another local warung. Chinese stye offering steamed fish (not only grilled), mud crabs and prawn amongst other choices. Usually crowded when there is a holiday in Java (now there’s a good clue) it should be sampled at any time.
62. The Ledgend.
63. Goshas.
64. Albion Satay House. Rp12,000 breakfast. A$2.00!
65. Appertite Restaurant Jl Kartika Plaza south of Ramada Bintang. Nice setting. Good food. Good wine list – Margaret River wines Rp95,000 – A$17 !!!
66. Uns Paradise Restaurant. Just off Poppies I near Legian street. Frequently live music which is good, as is the food and service and the toilets.
67. Tubes in Poppies Lane II for the young and young-at-heart. Free movies all the time and surfing videos too.
68. Billy’s Restaurant, Jl Sahadewa.
69. The Bagus Pub is not ‘bagus’!
70. Flora Hotel ‘Roast Nite’ is fabulous.
71. Bounty Hotel buffet nights.
72. Bamboo Corner in Poppies Lane 1. Great food and great prices. Often a queue waiting for tables. Three courses for two including a whole baked snapper, plus drinks for Rp75,000
73. Kedins Café also in Poppies 1 is cheap but not good food.
74. Jensens in Jl Bakung Sari. Clean restaurant and v. good toilets. Karaoke entertainment. Happy hour midday – 8 pm.
75. Bali Aget, also in Jl Bakung Sari. Good food and prices. Happy hour 5-8.
76. The Crown in Jl Legian near Melasti.
77. Warung Man-Nis. Sahadewa street (old Garlic Lane). Complimentary cool hand towel to freshen up when you arrive.
78. Secret Garden. Poppies Gang I, just past mid way going towards beach.
79. The Appetite, in Tuban, close to Santika Hotel, south of Ramada Bintang. Used to be the Palm Cove. Beautiful food in nice surroundings but not cheap. Try the kebabs skewered with lemon grass. Margaret River wines from Rp95,000.
80. Impala Seafood between the Dynasty and Kartika hotels. Indonesian and western menus. Small, Med or large serves. If new to the local cuisine try lots of small serves for the experience.
81. Gateway of India. For lovers of this cuisine. Also in Seminyak and Sanur.
82. Star of India. Bemo Corner in Kuta.
83. Kubuku Restaurant & Bar in Poppies Lane I. Extensive quality menu and good value. Friendly staff.
84. Avoid the Rama Bridge Café opposite the Kuta markets. Toilets are friendly but the food quality has gone down and the prices up. Want ants in your honey? (2002).
85. The Tree House, Poppies Gang I. Three courses for 4 people with drinks for less than Rp 200,000.
86. Brasil Café. On Jl Benesari between Jl Legian and Poppies. Lunch with drinks for 4 for less than Rp85,000.
87. Asian Spice. Fantasti Dim Sum. Fast food but exquisite.  Good toilets. Lunches about Rp50,000 for 2, dinner app Rp100,000.
88. Kunyit Bali Restaurant on Jl Kartika Plaza. Rijstaffel dinners (‘rice table’) Rp120,000 for two. Great food and great value.
89. Pepito’s supermarket is fairly new in Tuban (’03) and not the place you would normally look for a quality Bavarian restaurant but Peppino’s Restaurant is well worth a visit. The toilets are very user friendly too. Jl Kediri, 36A, Ph 759 112, ext. 279.
90. Sawasdekha in Rum Jungle Road is Thai and superb. Rum Jungle Road is really Jl Pura Bagus Taruna. It goes from Jl Legian to the Jakarta Hotel on the beach. A great spa and ladies salon above the restaurant.
91. Dewi Sri Restaurant on Jl Kartika Plaza. Great seafood – from tank to you via a sparkling kitchen. Don’t be put off by the outside appearance, it is not a typical tourist restaurant but is well worth the visit.

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DRINKING.

See also ‘Drinking - safely’ in the General section above. The Kuta to Seminyak area contains most of the better-known nightspots.

1. Kims Bar, front of Hooeys, Melasti St.
2. ‘Sex On The Beach’ cocktail.
3. Loess Bar, Jl Double Six. (?)

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VISITING.

1. Bali@cybercafe
2. Bali Aussie Internet, Melasti St.
3. Mehendra I/net Café, between Poppies I & II. Rp150 /min.
4. Teddy Hair Salon. Cut, manicure & massage w. spine re-alignment – US$20
5. Kaki Kakie Massage opposite Santika Hotel. Rp100,000 (A$20) for 1 hour. Sort of reflexology.
6. Health and Beauty Spa, Seminyak. A$30 – 2.5 hours of total pampering!!!!
7. Maria Massage. Poppies Lane I, Kuta. Trained at Club Med.

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DOING.

1. Huge statue under construction on hills overlooking Kuta, Benoa and Jimbaran Bay. GWK Cultural Park. An amazing place.
2. Internet Café. Near Ramada Bintang Hotel Jl Kartika Plaza. Also top floor Ramayana in Denpasar.
3. Book Nusa Lembongan tour at tourist info stand by Go-Karts. "Madi Gun Bali". Aus$270 for 3 people. Better than Bali Hai cruises. Food and drink provided with guide.
4. Bunga Bunga Artist Collective Gallery in Kuta Centre.
5. Waterbom Park. For kids of all ages. Not really cheap. US$15 + 10% entry. Smallish locker hire Rp15,000 + Rp 25,000 deposit but then you get charged each time you want to access your locker! Travel light but remember the 30+ sunscreen. Towel hire Rp5, 000 + Rp30, 000 deposit. Ice creams Rp 3 – 30,000, fries Rp15,000, pizza Rp35-45,000, nasi goreng Rp18,000, large Bintang Rp20,000. Spirts+mixers in tinnies. You can buy a second day pass quite cheaply if you intend to make a return visit later in your holiday. If you get there early enough you can use a cabana as a family base.
   
   

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PEOPLE.

1. · Wayan or Mystri (#27?)  Massage in front of Bintang Bali Resort, Tuban.  See Adi for fabric stuff (barter hard). Tell them Papa sent you.
2. · Massage #7 in front of Kartika Plaza.
3. · The Lemon Tree Spa on Jl Kartika Plaza. 2 hours for US$30.  Worth it.

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ACCOMMODATION (standard)

1. Holiday Inn Jl Wana Segara, Tuban, is our favourite, now known as the Bali Hai Resort and Spa.
   Meet Mr Made, the Front Office Manager, Made Widiatani (known as Widi) at breakfast,Suyesta may be in O’briens Bar and Made Setiasta (who we know as ‘Moonface’) could serve you in the pool bar or the coffee lounge.
   If you like caffe latte ask for one just like Mr Pat, the General Manager, has for breakfast. Chances are you’ve never seen a café latte quite like it. Renovated 2003 and very compact, right on the beach, friendly, great bar staff, good kids club, quiet, but close to Kuta, Rp7500 (less than A$3.00) by taxi. Regrettably showers are over the bath - take a 500 mm extension with you and call room service for a plumber to fit it so you’re not bumping into the wall all the time. Ph (62 361) 75 30 35. E-mail [email protected]. Web-site www.balihai-resort.com.   Baby sitters can be arranged for only Rp15,000/hour. The ground floor family suites are very big with room for kids to spread out on the floor or lounge in front of the TV and there are separate bath and shower. The ice making machines on each floor are great for taking cold drinks and food on your tours. Repeat customers are invited to an informal tea party with the management each week.
2. Bali Dynasty. Has too many guests for the facilities to handle at times. Beware lack of supervision at the Kids Club. Good meals. Some advertised events do not occur. Family poolside rooms are good but not the Premier rooms. Ice making machine on the first floor is a good idea.
3. Risata or Rama Baruna Cottages, Jl Wana Segara.
4. Santika Exec Bungalows, incl. Butler. A$1400 for 7 nights ex Perth, all incl.
5. Santika Beach Resort. Room 321 is great. Split-level. NZ$71/night. Plenty of pool lounges. Friendly staff.
6. Ramada Bintang. Best pools. Neither the beach nor the hotel is as good as Holiday Inn. Breakfasts not great – go out. Rooms’ ending in odd numbers all face inwards towards pool. Best. Some guests report difficulties reconciling final bill. Tea & coffee are not provided free in your room. Room 2035 (and others nearby no doubt) opens onto the gardens. It is in the first block close to the pool.
7. Puri Raja. Much better pool than the Melasti Beach resort next door.
8. Visitors who become un-enchanted with the Hard Rock Hotel do so with a vengeance. “.. biggest rip off … appalling service … advertised facilities not available … credit card mis-handled … inflated prices …”
9. Patra Jasa is much better than the Dynasty.
10. Natur Kuta Beach Hotel.
11. Bali Garden Hotel, Tuban. On the beach front, pool, spa, pool bar. Big rooms in the deluxe section, good choice of restaurants. Breakfast buffet really good, staff attentive.
12. The Kuta Seaview has good points that make it attractive. The Deluxe Bungalows are semi-detached Balinese style unit on the ground floor with massive queen or single beds wide screen television and nice verandas but actually without a sea view any more, maybe they never. It is very centrally located between Poppies I and II.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap) – Make sure that you use the security provisions of your hotel!  Do not leave your room unlocked even for a short time and even when its locked don’t leave money, passports etc .

1. Garden View Cottages, near Jl Padma, Legian. Fridge and A/C but basic.
2. Green Garden, Tuban. Nice restaurant.
3. Sennen Beach Inn, Jl Melasti, Camplung Mas Lane 25, Legian-Rp30-50,000/nite.
4. Ayu Beach Inn, Poppies.
5. Ardi Darma Cottages, Kuta. Large rooms clean pool. 10 min walk to the beach.
6. Dua Dara, Poppies 2 – Rp30,000 single.
7. Fat Yogis. Jl Sahadewa between Melasti & Padma. Find Sue. $10/nite. Bad reports in early ’03. ‘The pool looked as if it had been dyed green – but it hadn’t!’
8. Nagasari Hotel, Kuta. Near Kuta Markets.
9. Barong Hotel, Poppies Lane II, Kuta. Nice pools and clean rooms. Room 501 is on the second floor at the rear – quiet – good!  Only 2 towels supplied unless you ask for more, then ‘no problems’. US$20 / night. Taxi to Sindhu Markets in Sanur only Rp25, 000.
10. Hotel Restu Bali, Kuta.
11. Bali Rani - 3.5*. Tuban. Good value.
12. NOT Pelasa Hotel Cottages in Kuta. A wreck where quotes in Aus$ become US$ on departure.
13. Not Sahid Raya Hotel.
14. Istana Rama. Garden bungalows are actually doubles with no soundproofing between.
15. Flora Beach Hotel. Good food at great prices.
16. Not Aneka Hotel. Small rooms, noisy, poor water if you’re lucky.
17. Puri Rajah. Nice accom. Friendly and honest staff.
18. Dewi Sri Cottages. Has a new section, (’02). Nice gardens and pool. Friendly but not pushy staff. US$20 / night.
19. AP Inn, opposite Fat Yogis (not recommended) in Poppies Lane I. Rp135,000 / night – A/C, hot water, breakfast – clean, good atmosphere, friendly staff, pool, Kubuku Restaurant also good for Indonesian and Chinese food at value prices. Handy to shopping of course. http://www.apinn.com/ .

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# 2 - LEGIAN/SEMINYAK/KEROBOKAN DISTRICTS SECTION.

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Look also at Tuban/Kuta (previous section) as the boundaries are not clear between these districts.

SHOPPING. – Take a taxi to the northern end of Jalan Seminyak and begin the pleasant walk back checking the shoulder-to-shoulder shops as you go. Have a club sandwich or nasi goreng at Made’s Warung to keep up the energy levels.

1. Legian Markets, (better than Kuta, friendlier and no more expensive.).
   Try Ketut’s Art Shop No 14(9). Art Shop 14 (9), Jl Sahadewa Gang Sorga No 2 (‘Ady’s Lane’), Legian. Fixed price like Tootsies in Sanur the last shop in Ady’s Lane which runs off Jl Sahadewa on the right if you’re heading towards Jn Padma. If they haven’t got what you want they will get it. Reliable. If you get to French Leather you’ve gone past the lane. Ph 763 410.
2. Loji Supermarket Jl Padma Utara and also Jl Legian near old Bounty ship. Many varieties of Indo style nibbles and lots of nuts.
3. The Bintang Supermarket similar to Loji (above) and the bigger stores in Kuta and Denpasar.
4. Café Moka on the main road through Seminyak has cream cakes you might have in your dreams and French pastries. Exercise before you go because you won’t be able to after you’ve eaten.
5. Bali Deli in Seminyak.
6. Dolphins Leather, Sahadewa Street between Jl Melasti and Jl Padma. Ph 755 278. Same street as Indo National Restaurant, on same side but towards other end of street a bit closer to the markets. Almost opposite Bali Gong CD and DVD shop..
7. Alfin Leather, Melasti St.
8. Iwan Collection leather tailors, Jl Padma, Legian.
9. Site’s Pottery and Leather. On Legian just past turn off to Melasti on the left going north. Casserole dish $8 worth 10 times that at home.
10. ‘Marly From Bali’ – Jl Sahadewa between Melasti and Padma.
11. A reliable tailor is Mr Ansor at Brisbane Tailors on Jl Padma Utara about 100 paces from Bali Dwira.
12. Extreme sports shop on left going up Jl Legian past McDonalds/Matahari.
13. Janji Shop 35A. Melasti Art Market. Corner Jl Melasti and Sahadewa (Garlic Lane). Made and wife Nyoman. Larger sizes of clothing as well as kids wear. Singlet tops 15,000 – shorts/cords 30,000 – Hawaiian shirts 25,000 – white shirts 15,000 – long trousers 30,000. See Made.
14. Toko Bintang, Seminyak supermarket and kitchen wares. Legian Rd Seminyak. Cheaper and with a wider range than Matahari.
15. Lombok pearls are worth searching for. Various sizes & colours, pink, coffee, green, blue, silver, black. Cheapest on the Gillis, Rp 40-60,000 for bracelets, necklaces and anklets of small size pearls. Value in Sengiggi but 5-10 times the price in Kuta. A$25 for set of necklace bracelet and anklet from Novian the massage man at Puri Tanah Lot Hotel on Camplung Mas Lane off Melasti St, Legian. Also sellers at Legian Beach end of Jl Double 6 outside the beach cafes such as Benny’s, Zanzibar etc. Also Lalu Samani Ph (361) 757 170, Rp50,000 for large strands of large coloured pearls. Sellers from Lombok outside the Jayakarta Hotel – ask for Lalu Topan. Rp80-100,000 for “a good size necklace”. Another seller from Lombok is Saprudin. You’ll find him at Jl Padma Mas No IX Legian, phone (0361) 757 170 or ask Sammi and Sussi on the beach near the lifeguard tower at the northern end of the beach. ‘Rejects’, which are not exactly round or have lines etc on them, are cheaper than better quality. The jewellery shops in Legian have pearls at similar prices to sellers in Kuta and Jimbaran but with better quality and range of clasps, findings etc.  The acid test is to hold a lit match or lighter under them. Genuine pearls will not melt. Give the vendor plenty of time to object before you really do it though!
    'Ali’ is another seller, usually in front of the Kumala Pantai. His phone number is 757 170 if he’s not around. 3-strand average length for A$42 – longer A$45; Australian valuation $350+ when re-strung and clasped. Also near the Kumala Pantai, by Benny’s Café, you will find three ladies led by Lalu Topan. Between them they will have a full range of colours.
    See ‘Pearls’ in the Lombok District section.
16. Lombok Pottery. See Bill or Suzie Skevros at 373 Jl Legian. They import and sell at Lombok prices.
17. Sarong shops in Jl Double Six. Also wood carving shops and shadow puppets as well as beads (under US$1/strand). Look for Annie’s at the end of the row of sarong shops. Jl 66 runs from Legian street to the beach., sometimes called Sarong street. It is a haven of wholesale/retail outlets for all sorts of arts, crafts, clothing, handbags, shoes etc etc.
18. Betty Bu on Jl 66. cloth items including the best doona covers and different sari’s.
19. Bikinis at Dik Dak, Jl Sahadewa 13 in Legian. Bring your own fabric for best results.
20. Top Ten at No 118,Jl Melasti, Legian (Ph 759 425) sells louis vuitton fashion shous and handbags that will make the ladies’ jaws drop.
21. The Basement factory seconds shop. ‘Rusty’ and other brands. Jl Raya Legian No 463. Ph (0361) 755 921.
22. Computer software. Poppies Lane 2 on the right hand side coming from Legian Beach Road – about 40 paces along. Ask for Bastian. You can e-mail him before you go to check stocks at [email protected]. (62-361) 763 330 also at Jl Legian Kelod 408C which is just north of Jl Padma on the eastern side. Phone (62- 361) 757 051. Softcomp has several outlets; Kuta Sidewalk Blok C1 below the new Ramayana Hotel; Poppies Lane II in front of the Bagus Pub; also in front of the Internet Post in Poppies II; Legian street No 59 and Legian Kelod street No 408C.
    More software stores are listed in the Denpasar section further down.
23. DVD’s, PS1 7 @ games, videos etc. - Bali Gong Shop, Jl Sahadewa 6 Kuta Bali, LEGIAN. (Off Melasti Street between Bali Too Restaurant and the Legian Beach Hotel.) Just opposite Dolphin Leather and Dolphin Cafe. Not far from Indo National Restaurant. Ph 759 843. E-mail [email protected]. Run by Dede and Lucy. Reliable and honest. He has an Australian bank account into which you can pay for CD’s and DVD’s to be posted to you when the money is cleared. Posted DVD’s are priced at A$10 in early ’03.
24. Star Disc outlets are fairly new in Sahadewa Street and sell reliable DVDs and Playstation games. Ask for Willy. Ph (62-361) 757 140.
25. Avoid the moneychanger next to Billy’s Bar in Jl Sahadewa.
26. Wholesalers and exporters sell to the public in Jl 66, Seminyak. Could be the cheapest prices in Bali. Certainly 50% of Ubud market prices.
27. In Kerobokan visit the Geneva Handcrafts on the 3rd floor above the Geneva Furniture shop, Jl Raya Kerobokan No100. Ph (62 361) 733 571. Wholesale prices. A Blue Bird taxi from Legian is about Rp10, 000.
28. Golden Buffalo shop on Jl Legian at corner with Jl Padma. They have the largest selection of silver and bronze plated figurines you could ever hope to see. They have a warehouse outlet too. Ask for directions at the shop which is on the way to Geneva Homewares and Furniture store in Kerobokan (the next district just north of Seminyak).
29. Komang Sri, Tailor in Padma Street.
30. CLOTHING.
    * Oknwe, unusual Japanese-style designer clothing on Jl Legian.

* SKIN Post Atomic Wear is much better than the name sounds. Mainly linen and other natural fibres. Skirts, dresses etc about Aus$25-30. Excellent tailoring and cut. Also men’s clothes. Italian styles available. Jl Raya Seminyak No.16A and Jl. 66 No.58.

* Puravida on Jl Pantai Kuta No.29A and Jl Legian Kaja No.38B in Seminyak. Colourful and funky gear at Aus$25-30.

* Sandpiper on Jl Legian just before the old Paddy’s site as you go towards Kuta.

* Luna on Jl Raya Seminyak 38A, next to Puravida.

* Attitude Jl Raya Legian about 100 paces past La Porchetta and on the same side of the road.

31.  

 

 

 

EATING.

1.                    Made’s Warung I (Kuta) & II (Seminyak). Regular good reports.

2. Poco Loco, Jl Padma Utara, Legian. Generally good reports but claims of whole parties suffering food poisoning mid ’01. Strongly supported by others at the same time! Toilets 10/10. Perhaps it depends on the cook-of-the-night. Be prepared for anything.

2. Aromas Café, Jl Legian. Coffee, cakes, pastries. Fabulous baguettes & iced coffee. Nice setting.
3. La Lucciola, Seminyak. $$$ On the beach – spectacular. Some of the staff are very off-handed if not plain rude.
4. Kafe Warisan, Seminyak. Phone and book to ask for a 2nd Fl. table overlooking rice fields. 731175 Not cheap but ***** 3 courses for 2 + drinks A$60
5. La Terras – Like the two above. $$$
6. The Swiss Restaurant, Kuta & Jl Werkudara Legian. Fondue and ‘roesti’ potatoes amongst other delights. Ph 761 511.
7. Purnama, Seminyak
8. Legends in Sahadewa Street is worth a visit. Good food, good prices, good staff, good kids meals served promptly.
9. Taman Gardens Rest., Melasti street, Legian. Breakfast or Happy Hour. Is this the same as the Taman Legian Garden Rest?? All-you-can-eat breakfast Rp15,000 per person. Pancakes, rice, eggs fruit, etc, etc.
10. Also in Jl Melasti is the Puri Bali Indah. Try the chicken dishes. Owned by elderly Chinese your young children will be welcomed.
11. Delight Café, Rum Jungle Rd. Legian. Lamb. Rp5,000/main course.
12. Dolphin Bar & Restaurant, Melasti street. Legian. Happy hour 5.30 – 8.30 nightly. New manager and cook (2.2.02) – ‘best meals of our holiday’.
13. Wayan & Friends. Jl Padma Legian. Good steaks – not big but good. Rp40,000. Run by "Jody". Filet mignon +, Rp30,000. Also chicken breast. OK if your outlook is under 30’s. Bacon imported from Oz.
14. Café Moccha, Jl Legian – breakfast, French pastries.
15. Ryoshis (Japanese) in Seminyak.
16. The new Axiom, served by the first chef from Ku de Ta, is opposite Ryoshi’s (see above).
17. Kura Kura, chicken sate.
18. Warung Darsana Jl Legian, north of Padma.
19. Warung Ketut Jl Padma.
20. Legian Snacks, Jl Padma. Ordinary appearance but great food and service.
21. Mamas German Restaurant on Jl Legian not far from Kuta is almost a legend in the islands eateries. It’s open every day for 24 hours.
22. Mango Café, Sanur. Breakfast.
23. Apa Kabar, Sanur Excellent food – service a bit slow.
24. Warung Nasi – Three Brothers St near Sri Ratu Hotel. Owned by Agung Ketut. Nasi Campur !!! – Rp4,500.
25. Warung Yogya near Garden View hotel in a lane off Jl Padma. Bali cuisine. Lontong Cap Gomeh, Rp7,000/bowl – full! Opposite Logi Supermarket. Short menu but great food and service. Very clean.
26. Bali Too – breakfast Rp10,000. Avoid the milkshakes. Not good in “03. Dirty. Ordinary food.
27. The Legend – all-you-can-eat b/fast Rp10,000.
28. Wina Restaurant, Jl Padma Utara. – Cheap – best spring rolls and sweet/sour chicken in Bali! Good food and excellent value.
29. Fashion for pets at ‘Dog Tails’ near the Bintang supermarket in Seminyak. There are several other pet stores in Bali these days, as locals and ex-pats find the new fashion of dog and cat pet ownership.
30. Thai Bakery.
31. The Bali Bakery has been a legend for years. It’s on Jl Raya Kuta. Any taxi driver will find it. But it’s hard to get a table, particularly at lunch times. Construction being undertaken in 2003 will double its capacity again. Now there’s a mark of respect in the Bali restaurant business!
32. Benny’s Café.
33. Warung Banyan Mas. Small. Connected to Mini Mart. Great food, best value. Rp40, 000 for 3 courses for two on average. Jl Padma Ultara
34. Gajah Gajah. Rum Jungle Road, Legian St end. Indian. Vegetable samousas!
35. Ku de Ta – between Oberoi and Legian hotels. New. $$$. Roast chicken Rp125,000; T Bone 400gm with mushrooms & Vegetables Rp 160,000; beer Rp15,000; Soft drinks Rp12,000; desserts Rp40,000 plus 15% tax. Beautifully presented and cooked to perfection. On the beach. Best toilets in Bali (?). Some negative reports.
36. The Living Room. Was once a reasonably priced place to eat and drink but food is now expensive by the best Bali standards and the wine prices are through the roof at a hefty 4 times the retail cost. If you are going there BYO is a better option as their corkage fee is Rp50,000/bottle.
37. Legian Gardens, Melasti St. Breakfast ‘eat all you want’ Rp12,000 (A$2.40). Staff are very friendly and good with kids. A bit cramped for space and noisy. Ordinary food.
38. Lo’s Warung, Jl Padma, Legian. Steaks Rp40,000.
39. Delight Café. Good eating, fancy cooking – Tasmanian Salmon, Kiwi beef and lamb.
40. The Veranda Restaurant, Seminyak. In side lane (next to ‘Lips’ sleeze Bar) not far from Gado Gado Road, about 100 paces north of the Bintang Supermarket. Steaks, Lamb, seafood. Consistent quality and good prices. Balivillas Staff recommendation. European trained chef. Kid friendly.
41. Bali Aussie for breakfast – Rp9,500. A$1.90 !!! Set menu on Wednesday nights. Meal (5 courses) and drinks for 2 - Rp104,000 Watch for extra items on your bill but don’t argue unless you’re good defending against knives and broken bottles.
42. CURRY !!! Gateway of India No 10 Abinmanyu Dyanapura, Seminyak. Real tandoor. Buffet on Sunday nights is not to be missed. Also in Kuta and Sanur.
43. Panterei. Greek!
44. Glories Restaurant. Past turnoff to Jl Padma on the Legian road heading north. Buffet and A-la Carte. Free transport if you ring or they will pay part of your cab fare if their car is busy.
45. Pura Bali Indah, great Chinese and seafood. Just by Legian Beach Hotel. Frequented by oriental tourists! Extensive menu.
46. ‘La Monde’, Padma Utara street, above Loji Supermarket. More western than Asian. Pizzas, spaghetti, sweets etc. Interesting outlook.
47. La Corbona Restaurant. American breakfast Rp11,500. 2 eggs, bacon, toast, jam, juice, coffee, fruit.
48. Goes Art Bar & Restaurant, Jl Legian. Good for breakfast.
49. Aquarius Bar & Restaurant, Jl Legian. Good for evening meal. Wide selection. Great satays.
50. Give Kuta Seaview (part of Seaview Hotel) a wide miss.
51. Kopi Pot. Not only coffee but lemon meringue pie!
52. Rhum Café, Rum Jungle Road.
53. Bamboo Palace Rum Jungle Road, just around the dog-leg from the Rhum Café. Cheap but very good.
54. Carusoes on the beachfront in Seminyak. Good food but slow service. Great toilets.
55. Kumala Pantai, Seminyak. The hotel restaurant is not really cheap but quite spectacular and has great food. Very good toilets too.
56. Brazil Café. Near the bungy jump. Good food and very cheap.
57. Bagus Pub. Good food but the waiters want to be gossipy and sell you trips and stuff.
58. Puri Dayu (Dayan?) Restaurant. Padma Street, great satay chicken.. Also Wena’s near Rum Jungle Road.
59. Not ‘JD’s’, also in Padma Street, although there have recently been favourable reports after a change of ownership in 2001/2002. New owner is a Kiwi and both the food and the service have been praised.
60. Orchid Gardens Legian Gardens, both in Melasti Street.
61. Bali Qui and Billies, both in Garlic Lane.
62. Essence (formerly Flintstones).
63. Lo’s Warung, on old Rum Jungle Road. More of a great restaurant than a warung. Free drink on arrival. Excellent steaks (Rp 30,000) and smoked chicken breasts. Good service Toilets 7/10.
64. Bakery restaurant at the new  Hotel. A/C. Non-smoking. Toilets 8/10. Family units with separate bedrooms.
65. Warung Yoga on Jl Padma Utara, Legian.  Super clean kitchen, v. cheap and v. good.
66. The Crown, between the Legian Paradiso hotel and Melasti Street just down from Peanuts nightclub. Fresh food always and well priced. Australian owner provides great breakfasts – bacon and eggs Rp7,500. The regular repeat clientele says it all.
67. Bali Qui, Melasti street. Complimentary Arak, garlic bread, cold towels. Good food, service and prices but smallish serves.
68. Uncle Norms is not recommended. Ordinary food, cramped, loud. May be OK for under 20’s.
69. The Bakery is north of Seminyak in Kerobokan. Look for Jl Laksmana. There is a small deli incorporated into the Café/restaurant. Clean and cool. Worth the trip of less than 5 km.
70. Warung 96 is small for good reason – no-one goes back a second time.
71. Warung Darsana, opposite Gecko Boutique, Legian near the Jl Legian-Padma (now Yudisthura) intersection. Another Bali menu.
72. Legian Gardens Restaurant in Melasti Street. Good a la carte and buffet breakfasts, Rp12500. Friendly staff.
73. Ketupat, 109 Jl Legian up a driveway behind business premises. 754 209.
74. Pelang Hotel Restaurant. A bit dearer than the outside eateries but convenient and good.
75. The Cin-Cin in Jl Dhyana Puri was a disappointment after the Lonely Planet’s recommendation. The breakfasts were excellent in ’03.
76. Legian Snacks in Jl Padma Utara is worth a miss.
77. Double Six Café.
78. La Boheme. On the beach at Seminyak near the AJ Hackett’s bungy jump tower. Nice setting. Moroccan Lamb Rp65,000 – Sirloin and Veg Rp71,000 – Bintang Rp15,000 – soft drinks Rp10,000.
79. Warung Sobat (‘Café Friendly’) in Batu Belig village just north of Seminyak, about 5-7 minutes, near the Bali Sani Suites in Jl Batu Belig which is not far from Jl Petitenget. On the right when you get about 100 meters (yards) from the beach. Balinese owner Pak Made is a trained chef. Main courses about Rp14,000. Good selection of wines by bottle or glass at what could be the cheapest prices in Bali. ‘A bamboo café like Bali used to be.’ ‘Worth seeking out.’ Check the menu and directions at the very nice website – http://warungsobat.tripod.com/index.html .
80. Bestest Café was the highlight of one tourists trip. Gado Gado Rp20,000. Grilled Barracuda Teriyaki!!!
81. Tanjung Bali near the Melasti in Jl Double Six.
82. Warung Muslim, opposite the Bakungsari hotel has ‘the best satays in the world’.10 sticks for Rp Rp5,000; rice Rp2,000.
83. Café Tekor and the Zanzibar Café at the beach end of Jl double 6.
84. Mariners, on Jl Legian near Melasti Street in the lane next to La Puchetta. Very friendly staff. Try the chicken sate.
85. Indo-National Bar & Restaurant. One of the latest, opened in Dec ’02 by ‘Mr & Mrs GunnaLiveThere’, enthusiastic Forum contributors and now ex-pat Aussies, Milton & Kerry, who fulfilled the dreams that many have but never realise. Jl Sahadewa 13D between Melasti and Padma streets. Very good toilets and a super clean kitchen.
86. Cucina trattoria in Jl Laksmana in Kerobokan village which is north of Seminyak. Italian of course, and very good in both food and value.
87. Mykonos Café is also in Kerobokan but with a Greek bias.
88. Kuni’s. Japanese but a bit different on Jl Laksmana in Kerobokan. A nice view across the rice fields from the open side of the eatery.
89. The Enoteka Restaurant at the villa Kendil in Kerobokan has great salmon and steaks, charming staff and is quiet enough to have a conversation with your companion(s). http://www.villakendil.com . See the map for directions at http://www.baliroomfinder.net/map/seminyak.shtml.
90. Lola’s in Kerobokan is a French restaurant.
91. You don’t come across an Arabian restaurant on every street corner, even in the Middle East. You will find one in Kerobokan on Jl Laksmana. Called the Khaima it has French owners and a Moroccan menu and decor.
92. Another in Kerobokan’s Jl Laksmana is Paul’s Place. Large (three floors with a garden on the roof), the menu is broadly Asian.
93. Café Warna just a bit up-coast (north) from the Jayakarta Hotel. Tex-Mex and very good.
94. Taste is a new warung with a French flavour to the menu. In Laksmana street in Kerobokan (near the Oberoi). Limited wine list but real bargains for Bali. Not classy but great food.
95. Essence Restaurant & Bar was opposite entrance to Puri Santrian, Sanur but has now (’04) opened at 235X Jl Petitenget in Kerobokan. French style with rich sauces and quality food. Try the duck or Ginger Ice cream and other flavours!!! Now opening for breakfasts from 8.00 am.
96. Another new one in Kerobokan is Lola Restaurant at 58 Jl Raya Kerobokan, Ph(+ 62 361) 738 570 for reservations. Elegant, cool and French.
97. Warung Mimpi is new (‘04)in Jl Dhyna Pura, Seminyak. Food is much better than a number of places that really serve drinks with some food to hold it down.
98. Rumours is another new restaurant in what is becoming known as ‘Eat Street’, Jl Laksmana in Kerobokan, which is not far away being just over the ‘border from Seminyak. Superb food in western style at really cheap prices. Not open for lunches yet (’04) but this may change. First class toilets in a uni-sex arrangement which is great for socialising at the hand basins. !?
99. New in ’04 is Warung Rai. It has the ambience of a locals’ warung but caters to the tourist market by being clean and efficient.

100.    In Three Brothers Lane near Brisbane Tailors (also recommended), Iby Agung will serve you the most tasty meals for about Rp5,000/plate. The beer is cold too. Nasi Campur is almost take-away but nothing will hold you up for more than 10 minutes or 2 Bintangs.

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DRINKING.

1. Sammi & Sussi,– By the Legian Beach Lifeguard tower and a fairly prominent tree. (At the back of the Legian Beach Hotel, to the right as you face the sea.)  This is a Forumites gathering spot.  5pm – sundown.
2. Bali Rock. Good drinks, food nite life – and they support Gloria’s Crisis Care Centre.
3. Logi Mini-Market, Legian St & opp Garden View.
4. Soda Club, Legian.
5. Loco Bar, Jl Double Six (??)
6. Kura Kura Bar & Grill. Jl Legian up from Double 6.

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VISITING.

1. Puta Bagus Terana, Legian – Internet cafe.
2. A/C CyberCafe, Speedy’s, off Padma St, Legian.
3. Lazale I/net Café, Jl Legian.
4. Massage. OKA beauty parlour, Three Brothers St, Legian, east of Sri Ratu towards 3 Bros Hotel. Ask for Iluh or Putu. Rp40,000/hour.
5. Jari Menari Spa (‘dancing fingers’) in Seminyak has featured in Harpers Bazaar magazine. ‘One of the 50 best things to do in Bali’. Minimum 75-minute sessions by males or females. Uses Californian system. A$50 for 90 minutes.  The building is specially designed along simplistic Japanese lines with large areas, running water and skylights.
6. Also on beach at Forum Bar. Ask Sussi to point out best massagers. Back only Rp10,000.
7. Hope Children’s Home is not really in Legian but about 10 km north in the village of Untal Untal, about 1 km west of Sempidi on the way to Denpasar. Hope is a very strongly Christian orphanage for about 100 children that survives, really, on the charity of visitors to Bali. Tourists are welcomed and invited to see the facilities and to talk to the children. Any gift you can take, or any donation that you can make will be graciously accepted and put to good use for the benefit of the children. Chances are that the children will sing & play for you. They are quite skilled and regularly play at the larger hotels to raise funds for school fees. In 2001 they played and sang carols at the Hilton.
8. The regular drag show at the Hulu Café entertains many travellers.
9. Melasti Spa at the Melasti Beach Resort. Professional with out obscene prices in US$. Less than Rp100,000 for a lot. Sometimes up to 50% discount. Trained staff.
10. There is a new photographic Gallery on Jl Petittenget, 200X, in Kerobokan. The Richard Meyer Culture.

.

DOING.

On Jl Legian, one shop before Jl Padma (Yudistera), on the right hand side heading south, is the small Warung Darsana. It has some odd stuff for sale and serves a mean Nasi Campur, Bali style. The owners welcome visitors who just want to sit and watch the passing parade of local lovelies, Europeans with disdain for such a small establishment and savvy ex-pats who know of this secret place. There are interesting stalls nearby, some boutiques and, turning to the right on Jl Padma, there is a new cyber café with machines that have letters on the keyboard still.

 

Pelangi Laundry just before Logi Supermarket on Padma Utara, near La Monde Restaurant has the best reputation in Bali. Great service.

 

DRIVERS.

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PEOPLE.

1.        The Bali Travel Forum ‘Bar’ is a service run by two locals, Sammi and Sussi. It is simply a gathering point for Forumites around a red esky, from which S & S sell beer and soft drinks. It is to be found near an old tree next to the lifeguard’s tower on the beach and is ‘open’ from early-mid afternoon until sundown.  Many Forum friendships are cemented here and many an impromptu dinner to follow the closing of the bar has run into the small hours.
Warung Tikus Kecil (The ‘shop of the small mouse’) is a similar venue 2 eskies north of S & S’s, the first turn left at the end of Padma street. Run by Made and her daughter, also Made, there are wooden stools for seating rather than the plastic stools at S & S’s. Cold beer and soft drinks are available along with the usual assortment of beach sellers who seem less intrusive than those at S & S.

2.       It is suggested that there is an honest money changer on Jl Raya Legian opposite the Bintang Supermarket and Mario’s Silver. Look for M-Stan Money Changer.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

1. Puri Tanah Lot, Legian, off Jl Melasti. Ph 361 752 281. Rooms from Rp80,000 inc b/f.
2. Legian Beach Bungalows. Rp120,000. (A$24). Don’t expect much!
3. Sri Ratu (‘The Queen’), Three Brothers Road, Legian. Queen Superior suites (2 storey from Rp350,000. Queen Suites (for 2) Rp250,000. Queen Deluxe "A" rooms (for 2) Rp200,000 for 2 incl B/fast. Queen Deluxe "B" Rp175,000 etc etc to Queen Budget Rp135,000 for 2. And bungalows between Rp350 and 200,000. Contact [email protected]. Discounts may apply.
4. Suri Whati Hotel, Legian. Rp55,000/nite.
5. Ned’s Hideaway, No 3 Gang Bima Seminyak.
6. Garden View Hotel and Cottages, opp Loji Supermarket.
7. Adhi Dharma Hotel, near Melasti St.
8. Topi Koki Hotel. Opposite Jayakarta Hotel. Rp90,000/night for twin share, A/C, serviced daily, very clean. No pool.
9. Villa Wilsana. A sort of a guesthouse. Very welcoming. Walking distance to high-class eateries like Ku De Ta, La Lucciola etc.
10. Bali Garden Hotel. Right on the beach. Clean. Good breakfasts, pool, staff.
11. Beware of the Bali Dwira if you’re travelling with Break Free. ‘The holiday from Hell’.
12. Three Brothers Cottages. A bit shabby and lots of street noises. US$35/night.
13. White Rose in Legian St, Legian. Perhaps more of a mid-range than a really cheap place.
14. Villa Rumah Manis has a grotty entrance road but the rooms, esprcially the upstairs ones, are nice Outdoor shower etc but very thin towels. Safe in room. 4 poster bed with mozzie netting was good.  Rooms very clean but food very poor in quality, choice and variety. Good grounds.
15. Adus Bungalows. In small lane in Legian opposite Tanah Lot Hotel. Rp60,000 (or less) for basic room up to Rp200,000. Breakfast included. Ask for extra towels and sheets that are included in the price. Small pool. Backpacker popular.
16. Puri Raja Hotel, Jl Padma Utara, Legian. US$38/room/night. Includes B/fast. Close to restaurants and supermarket. On the beach – 2 pools.
17. Tropical Kubu, Jl Sahadewa between Padma and Melasti for families/larger groups. Double bedrooms upstairs w/ fan cooling, roll out beds downstairs. Living area has TV, VCR, CD bar and dining area. Equipped kitchen with fridge. House Rp300,000/night  www.balibagus.com/tropicalkubu .
18. The Camplung Mas is described as a 2.5 star place with a lot of problems ranging from noise through to sheets that are too short for the bed to rude staff and thin room towels although the pool towels were good. The pool bar is open 24 hours if there are customers but the pool closes at 8pm. Breakfasts are to be dreaded. On the plus side it is clean. Just off Jl Melasti. Good A/C. Rp200,000 without breakfast which is better at the nearby Legian Gardens Restaurant, all you can eat.
19. Wina Hotel. Large rooms, two pools, good restaurant, quiet.
20. Bali Ayu. Not one traveller’s favourite: Large room but the bed was as hard as a rock and the linren didn’t fit – cobwebs and dead insects: even after the morning make-up it didn’t feel clean, sheets could be stained or have cigarette burns: office inefficient with messages: small pool and few pool towels: dirty bathroom.
21. Bakungsari. Cheap, clean, central, friendly. TV, A/C, fridge, balcony, porch. Quiet. Clean pool. Good toilet and shower.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Standard).

1. Melasti Beach Resort. (3*). Try to avoid the standard rooms, they are poorly located, dark and dingy with no balcony/veranda. The Superior rooms are better and the upgrade is not expensive. Reception staff not friendly (Dec ’02 and again commented on in June ‘04) good location, pool and restaurant on site; 3 hour wait for pool towels. Suggestion – ‘Buy your own and avoid the hassle.’  Good cleaning staff and massage ladies and spa center. Breakfasts not as good as they used to be. (’03) and ‘04. Location next to the beach is the best thing about it. Security is questionable as you can go to the desk and ask for any key with no ID required. Travellers in room 174 on the second floor describe it in glowing terms – ‘huge’.
2. Not Jayakarta Hotel. ‘Roachville’! Silver Surfer. Môn 3 Sept 2001. Select your accommodation with care. Others are full of praise for the place.
3. Indah Beach Resort. Beware security of safety deposit boxes. Intimidating staff.
4. Legian Beach Hotel. Older hotel but clean and with good facilities including restaurant. Well developed gardens. US$70/night. Not good service or friendly desk staff. (2002). Some have noisy rats in the walls. The Superior Villas are much better than the old ‘Hotel Block’ known as ‘Superior Rooms’, which they are not. (2003). The rooms in the block are dark, dank and smell. Staff not very friendly and shuttle bus not to be relied on.
5. Legian Village. Nice clean rooms but it is noisy at night.
6. Casa Padma. Great restaurant and breakfast, beautiful rooms, friendly staff. A$50/night.
7. Bali Imperial. Great accommodation although it is a bit far out to be very convenient.
8. Complaints about the Villa Pantai Biru in Seminyak and the rental company Hospitality Management Corp. seem to be legion.
9. Intan, Legian. A bit on the cheaper side of standard rates. Bungalows in Balinese style with outdoor bathrooms (extra) are great. Uncle Norms (close) for breakfast at Rp12,500 cooked.
   In 2002 some travellers were shocked at the poor condition of rooms which they were offered and refused to stay anywhere in the hotel.
10. The next beach north of Seminyak, before Kerobokan, is at the village of Canggu. The Hotel Tugu is spectacular with villas and private plunge pools. The food is as good as any of the better known up-market restaurants.
11. In Kerobokan – Villa Seri, Umalas Kauh, Kerobokan, Kuta. 1, 2 or 3 br luxury, 5* service. E-mail - [email protected] site – http://balinesia.com/villaseri
12. Padma Hotel. 5* service. Not cheap but good value. Best hotel in the area. Excellent food.
13. Villa Coco. Beware of the villa with the very narrow stairs up to the bedroom. Noisy. Mozzies.
14. Pelangi, Seminyak. Large rooms, clean, nice environment thro’ hotel. Good food, seashore restaurant, beachfront pool..
15. Kumala Pantai, Legian. Great breakfast. Nice 50m pool. No money changing option at the hotel but an ATM at the Circle K shop 100 pages right from the entrance. No laundry either but there are several excellent ones to choose from within a short walk.
16. Masa Inn is Rp180,000/night including breakfast which is adequate but a bit small for youngsters. Pool and the pool bar can be sources of noise into the early hours of the morning although its supposed to close at 12pm.

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# 3 - JIMBARAN BEACH DISTRICT SECTION.

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Jimbaran Beach (the emphasis is on the first syllable – ‘JIM-baran’) is noted for its very classy and high priced accommodation, its fishing fleet and the resultant seafood ‘restaurants’, right on the sands of the beach, which sell their seafood by weight.  They operate in the late afternoon and evening and seem to all have dodgy scales.  If you have a romantic dinner here it’s a sure bet that the wandering minstrels will come to your table and sing ‘Leaving in a Jet Plane’.  Your taxi driver will probably have an ‘arrangement’ with one of the restaurants and will take you to it regardless of where you ask to go.  There is no reason why you should stay if you want to go elsewhere, to a place that has been recommended to you.

A taxi from Tuban costs Rp10,000, but arrange your return trip with the driver as Jimbaran is a bit secluded and can be hard to get a taxi back to your hotel.

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SHOPPING.

Jimbaran Beach (often called Jimbaran Bay) is not a recognised shopping area.  However, it is only about 5 km from the shopper’s paradise of Kuta and less to Tuban, about 15 km to Sanur (although many travellers would not recognise this as a premier shopping area either) and about 10 km to the high class (and higher price) area of Nusa Dua.  These are all less than a very cheap ½ hour taxi ride away.

Jenggala, near the Inter Continental Hotel makes characteristic green ceramics and pottery. Their showroom has fixed prices and they’re not cheap but its high quality stuff. www.jenggala-bali.com/index

See also at Lombok Pottery, Legian outlet.

 

EATING –

There are now three distinct sections of seafood shacks. Those at the far end are the original outlets that established the popularity of the place and are locally owned, therefore having a stake in the future and the reputation of the area. The new ones near the Four Seasons have better toilets and furniture. Some also have a full bar service. Check all prices as they tend to get better the further you go into the area. This strip is better than those between Four Seasons & Inter Continental. The third strip, closest to the airport, is best avoided, not only because they are the greatest rip-offs but also as they are possibly un-licensed by the local authorities.

Seafood is sold by the ‘kilo’: many of the scales are questionable – “we checked 5 with a 600ml water bottle and all had rigged scales showing in the 1.2 Kg range.” Always double check prices/kilo and write it down in front of staff so they know that they can’t inflate it on the bill and tell you that you must be mistake about the original quote.  Ask for the ‘second price’ menu that is much cheaper than the one they’ll give you first. Prawns Rp60,000/Kg, lobster Rp100,000, fish 40-50,000.

There is some lighting at the tables but mainly candles are used.  It’s a great atmosphere.  Musicians stroll beach seeking tips.

You need to be early (5 pm) to get the best seats at a front table to see the sunset but the prices lower later.  The best sunset view is at about 6.00-6.15 pm.

Many tourists are very disappointed by what they see as poor food, poor service, rip-off prices and a cheap atmosphere. This is even before they mention the pollution that washes about your feet if you’re ‘lucky’ enough to get a seaside table. Others rave about the place.

‘White Devil’s’ favourites –
The original restaurants are the best.  Negotiate price first.  Select only firm fish with clear eyes and red gills.  One litre water bottle weighs one kilo. (For checking scales.) 
You pay only for the seafood you select & drinks. The peanuts entrée, salad and platter of fruit at the end should be included.
Fat Red Snapper. Barracuda. Small Tuna. Small squid. Small prawns if fresh (firm).
Bayung Restaurant - Good fish/chef/sauces/service. 
Bamboo Restaurant – Good if the fish is seen to be good.

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1. Jimbaran Beach Cafe.
2. Café Bagus, Jimbaran Beach.
3. Café Teba.
4. Intan Café, Jimbaran Beach.
5. Sharkies Restaurant (Sharkys?). Often great food. Maybe not the best for value. Some of the cooks tend to over-do things and the food ends up dry and tasteless. Watch the char-grilled prawns particularly. Go to the toilet before you leave your hotel.
6. Marina Restaurant.  Bad scales.  Overpriced but good quality.
7. Junkung Café.
8. Pesalakan Café, on Jl 4 Seasons, Muaya Beach, Jimbaran Beach.
9. Circus Café.
10. Pudac Café. - Some subsequent bad reports in April ’01 and Nov 01 – Scale more than double real weight.
11. Lia’s. On the right of the Keratin as you face the beach. Basic café but wonderful sauces and probably correct scales. 1 Kg prawns (20) and a red snapper, soft drinks and aquas for 2 – Rp312,000.
12. Pantari Sari Café.
13. Bamboo Café is variable in quality.  Depends on the chef of the night?
14. Bayang in centre section is good.  (See White Devil’s selections above.)
15. Mama Donos.  5 people, 5 prawns, snapper, salads etc + drinks = Aus$14.
16. Melasti Café.  A bit dearer than others but no rip-offs. (?)
17. Sunset Bali Café recommended by ex-pat resident of 12 years. They will transport you to and from if you phone them. About A$50 per couple.
18. New Melasti Café.  Pick up from hotel.  Ph 709 083.
19. Café or Warung Roma is good but beware of the copy-cat Café Rama (even the ‘a’ in the sign looks like an ‘o’).  It’s a disaster and a rip-off.
20. Better to avoid the Uluwatu Café.
21. White Sands has a growing reputation. (Late 2002.)
22. Quatro’s. close to the airport end. Open eating on the beach or enclosed upstairs. Tablecloths & finger bowls! Dinner for 2 – Rp450,000.
23. Not strictly in Jimbaran but part of the huge GWK Cultural Park on the slopes of the Bukit Peninsula south of Jimbaran, is a new (03) restaurant, ‘deMEMEdi’. Elegant, open air, unbelievable views down over Jimbaran, Kuta, Benoa and Sanur by day or night. Western and Indo fare. They serve only Wine of the Gods (local) but you can bring your own – corkage Rp30,000/bottle !!! Dinner for two for Rp100-200,000.

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VISITING.

1. Be at the beach for spectacular sunsets.
2. Bali Cliff pool. Spectacular infinity pool. Rp100,000/day incl towels. Cost of any food or drinks you want is deducted from this charge so it not a total loss although charges are expensive; pasta dish Rp65,000 – small Bintang Rp22,000. Monkey views about sunset.

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DOING.

1.          Take oranges/mandarins to feed monkeys at Tanah Lot instead of buying peanuts.

2.         Game fishing. Pt Atlantis Bahari, Ph 081 2398 1864. Jl Danau Tamblingan 49, Sanur. It’s at the southern end of Sanur, behind the Trophy Pub. E-mail [email protected], Ph/fax (03610) 283 676.
Also Slim at Baliwaves who runs charters from Tuban. www.baliwaves.com – looks like a surfing site but it also has fishing news.

3.         Visit the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park (GWK) with the giant bronze statues on the foothills above Jimbaran near the university. You will be gob-smacked at the views and the scale of the limestone excavations and the statues.

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DRIVERS.

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PEOPLE.

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ACCOMMODATION.(Standard)

Some very good, very expensive lodgings available. Most quote costs in US dollars.

1. The Puri Bambu is US$45 for a deluxe room. This is much cheaper than several hundred dollars at some of the top-flight establishments.  It is spotlessly clean and well managed. Good food at reasonable prices. There are really only seafood restaurants at Jimbaran. Taxis to Tuban are about Rp15,000 and Rp20,000 to Kuta.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

1. Keraton Hotel. Cheap for Jimbaran Bay I think. Aus$65/night per person. Less than 5 Km from Kuta, there is a shuttle bus or a taxi is Aus$3.

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# 4 - NUSA/BENOA/BUALU DISTRICT SECTION.

For the story of one of our stays in Nusa , including a walking tour around Tanjung Benoa and some photos, click on this link - http://www.geocities.com/filo_1au/PhotosDays1_4.html .

The Kuta bombing has hit Nusa Dua and Bualu very hard. Many of the established shops and eateries that may be mentioned here have now (’03) closed, maybe temporarily or maybe permanently. Only time will tell.

 

SHOPPING –

1. The Nusa Dua hotels area is expensive, particularly Galeria shopping area although those few shops that survive after the bombing are a little more reasonable now that even the Japanese tourists are seeking cheaper lodgings and better bargains. Jalan Pratama that runs along the short peninsula towards Benoa has many good value cafes & restaurants. The local village of Bualu is also cheap.
2. Many of the well-known clothing brands have outlets in Nusa, mainly in the Galleria, and seem to have constant sales at almost unbelievable discounts.
3. Change money at PT Central in Kodak shop opposite Club Bali Mirage about half way along Jl Pratama, or at the independent stall a few steps north.

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EATING.
Eating in the hotels of Nusa Dua is an experience – but an expensive one.
There are restaurants and cafes in the Nusa shopping complex, called ‘The Galleria’, that are good and a bit cheaper.
There is a village nearby, within walking distance of many hotels, called Bualu. Eating here is as good as the Galleria and cheaper still.
If you are staying in one of the Tanjung Benoa hotels you will find hotel eating about on a par with The Galleria, but on the main road through the peninsula (Jalan Pratama) you will find a great range of magnificent, small restaurants, cafes and warungs.  (‘Warung’ is the local word for a small community eating-place. It is now often used however, to give a local flavour to a restaurant or café.)
(’Jalan’, abbreviated to ‘Jl’, is the Bahasa Indonesia word for road.)

Look for Jl Pantai Mengiat also, at the southern end by the Hilton and Putri Bali. It runs along the edge of Bualu village.. Host of good eateries here.

1. Jukung Seafood Café Jl Pratama, (Jukung is a traditional outrigger sailing boat with small triangular sail. Most now have outboard motors. Also known as Prahu.) Opposite Peninsula Beach Resort on dark section of road. Very well patronised. Free transport in Nusa. 773 902
2. Bola Bali Café & Bar, Jl Pratama #85D Nusa Dua. Opposite the Aston. Well patronised. 775 490, free transport, fresh food daily, purified water, welcome drink and garlic bread. Cuisines incl. Italian.
3. Bumbu Bali, ****. On Jl Pratama $$$ opposite Nusa Dua Clinik.
4. Nyoman Rest., On Jl Pratama Nusa Dua.
5. Café Bagus Bar & Rest. Jl Pratama Nusa Dua. 772 716. Small, good food, value (Gado Gado Rp9,500) single toilet could make the whole place 9/10 - but it wouldn’t flush, - 3/10. Pity!
6. Warung Bali on Jl Pratama.
7. Kacek Restaurant.
8. Eveh Warung, Benoa.
9. Maxi Boga, Nusa Dua.
10. Bali Epeh, Jl Pratama, Nusa Dua.
11. Mini Restaurant. Opposite Novotel Hotel.  Good and cheap. Recommend for breakfast. Value, even when cab fare from Nusa is included in cost. You’ll often get 20% discount as a return customer. The laundry next door is very good and cheap.
12. Bali Café, Jl Pratama near Novotel, Tanjung Benoa.
13. The Hann Restaurant, Jl Pantai Mengait, Bualu. Ph 77 6565. It was very good but we had bad experiences in 2000, which probably means we will not return.
14. Lotus Garden, Bualu village. Good food but a bit noisy.
15. Mentari Ming Garden, Bualu, Ph 772 125.
16. Nelayn. Bualu Village. 773 534. Call them for a pick-up.
17. Koki Bali, Bualu village. Ph 772 406.
18. Jala Restaurant, Bualu village. Ph 771 203.
19. Bale Banjar, Bualu, Ph 771 953.
20. Kejak Bali, Tanjung Benoa. Great steamboat dinner. Free transport from Nusa Dua hotels. Cooking classes’ also good value.
21. Lhai Lhai – Canton Chinese – on main road.
22. El Pirata International – Pantai Mengiat St Bualu village – Seafood.
23. Ming Garden, Bualu. Cheap but good. They will arrange transport for you.

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VISITING.

1. Tiger Jam Laundry opp. Hyatt. Will deliver to hotels. Very cheap and good – ’20 pairs of knickers for A$2.10’.
2. Novotel Hotel. Bronze by Dali as tribute to Newton. 20’ (6m.) tall, which was an attraction, is no longer there. Good breakfast is included but generally the food expensive. The excellent Mini Restaurant is just a few minutes walk away. Live entertainment at night. Active Kids Club. Many beach activities along adjacent foreshores but look out for dangerous situations and check the fine print on your travel insurance.

 

DOING.
All sorts of water sports are offered, along the Tanjung Benoa beaches in particular, but beware of un-safe situations, and if you are female, beware of fairly blatant groping when uncontrolled opportunities are presented to the ‘handlers’ at activities such as para gliding.  Look before you leap!

1. Blue Oasis Beach Club has aggressive manager.
2. Fishing – Tanjung Benoa, on the peninsula point north of Nusa Dua. (Not Benoa Harbour which is about 25 km away around the other side of the bay nearer Sanur.)
3. Cooking classes. Kejak Bali & Bumbu Bali. See Restaurant. List above.
4. Besakih has the most aggressive ‘temple guides’. Whole trip unpleasant.
5. There is a seaplane excursion from Benoa Harbour. US$150/person for 1 hour flight time, 2 stops, lunch and snorkelling. Cheaper excursions available and cheaper fares for up to 6. The scenery from the air is magnificent. Contact pilot [email protected] .

 

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DRIVERS.

Tanjung Benoa is an open cab area where you will find Blue Bird Group cabs and others. Beware of White cabs even when ordered thro’ hotels.

It’s not easy to hire a cab off the street in Nusa. There seems to be some sort of ban on hailing cabs from out of the area. Perhaps ‘local’ Gold cabs pay a premium to operate there?

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PEOPLE.

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ACCOMMODATION.(Standard – Means rather expensive in Nusa but not so bad down the Benoa Peninsula a bit.!)

1. Inter-Continental.
2. Hilton nicer than Sheraton Indah. (The Indah has been re-named The Westin – ’03).
3. Grand Mirage has a nice beach. Seaview rooms are especially good. Nice buffet breakfast.
4. Novotel Benoa, get a beachside room. US$108/night double occupancy incl. b/fast. Great landscaping.
5. Klub Bali Mirage. Clean, spacious rooms, good staff, service, food. Tanjung Benoa.
6. Nusa Dua Beach Hotel. $100 / night for standard room.

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ACCOMMODATION.. (Cheap)

1. Lamun Guest House, Nusa Dua. Adj Bualu Hotel.
2. Century Benoa. Newish. Used to be the never-completed Holiday Inn at Benoa. Great facilities now. $49 on I/net inc b/fast.
3. Peninsula Beach Resort opposite Jukung Seafood Restaurant.
4. Villa Bintang Resort, Tanjung Benoa.  On the beach. Nice grounds, big rooms.

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# 5 - SANUR/DENPASAR & LEMBONGAN ISLAND DISTRICT SECTIONS.

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Sanur is a quieter tourist centre on the east coast while Denpasar is the capital of Bali and a business/government centre inland, north west of Sanur.

Sanur is the jump off point for Lembongan Island. Travel by new Aristocrat ferry. One day trip with lunch. See separate Lembongan section after "Accommodation’, below.

Early in the morning (7 am or thereabouts) you can see the local boats for Lembongan being loaded with produce for the trip. This is north of the Grand Bali Beach hotel, up near Jl High Tullah. If you’re game passengers will be taken for only Rp12,000. There is a warung on the beach that is good for breakfast while you are entertained by the activity. There are safer options available for the trip. (See below.)

One of the great Bali experiences is to get up early and watch the sun come up over the ocean. Even better if you have a bottle of cold champage to share with a spouse, or a lover, or a friend or with any two or all three.

Northwest of Denpasar is the district of Tabanan. It is a little out of the way being a bit further west than the common track up to Singaraja/Lovina but has some wonderful attractions:
* Dance performance palaces at Krambitan west of Tabanan town,
* the butterfly park north of Tabanan town,
* Yeh Panas (sacred hot sulphurous springs used by the Japanese during their occupation of Bali) further north still, about 12 Km.
* Pura Batakaru, ancient and weathered, further north still, about 20 Km, in the foothills of Gunung (Mount) Batakaru,
about 5 Km further to remarkable rice terraces,
* About 16 Km north of Tabanan town and a little east is the village of Marga which has a shrine to I Gusti Ngurah Rai, a martyr in the wars against the Dutch forces. The International Airport is named after him.
A green bemo ride around Sanur is Rp1,000 if you have the right money, or anything that you have above that if you’ve not got change. Rp2,000 will get you to Denpasar.

Beware of Mr Gusti who hangs around the beach walkway usually. He claims to be a retired teacher, businessman etc and invites you to meet his family to help their English (Dutch/German/etc) skills. They are con artists of the best calibre and will relieve you of your money in one way or another.

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SHOPPING. The Sindhu Beach markets, near Mangoe’s Restaurant and the Bonsai Restaurant, are generally regarded as the best in the Sanur area. The often-confused Sanur Beach Markets are near the Segara Hotel.

1.          Freighting extra home – Bumi Ayu Hotel, Bumi Ayu Lane. 45kg min.

2.         PT Central Moneychangers in Kodak shops and in larger dept stores are always reliable but these days they will not accept photocopies of your passports for changing Travellers Cheques. A better option is to find a Wartel (government telephone shop which also serve as local money changers. They are honest and reliable, and give a receipt like PT Central but they will accept P/copied passport which is always safer to carry than the real thing..

3.         There is a Wartel (telephone and posting office) opposite La Taverna, about in the middle of the Sanur strip.

4.         Money changing. Two shops together on the Grand Bali Beach side of Sindhu Beach markets are honest. They sell postcards & CD’s.

5.         There is evidently an honest ‘Authorised’ moneychanger just outside the Besakih Hotel, first shop on the right as you come out of the hotel property..

6.         Money Changer. Near Segara – walk to beach tern left thro rest. Photo-gift shop on other side before Jl Segara.

7.         Hardy Grosir is a newly renovated multi-story supermarket in the heart of Sanur. In ’03 it had many opening special discount items throughout the store. Prices are comparable with other places in Kuta and Denpasar. In addition to the usual foodstuffs etc goods include furniture, electrical, motor scooters, cosmetics, musical instruments, toys, patisserie, craft items and silver goods, art works, food hall and a play area for kids.

8.         MA Department Store, Jl Diponegoro, Denpasar. Sensual lingerie.

9.         Tootsies, Stall 28 Sindhu Beach. Sanur Bch. Fixed prices, good for first timers who are concerned about skills of bartering.

10.      Keni’s, Stall 25 Sindhu Markets. (Not # 21!!)

11.       Jenny’s Shop 41, Sindhu Beach Markets. Often a bit cheaper than the renowned Tootsies.

12.      Jeni – shop 29. Fixed price.

13.      Tailor opposite Tootsies.

14.      Beware Sarina Tailor in the Sindhu Beach Markets. Often excuses and also often not as you ordered, nor the price as you agreed! Flower & Petal next door to Sarina is much better.

15.      Prescription Glasses, Optik – A$38 up, 1 day service. Legion, Denpasar, Galleria. Tiara Dewata mall, Denpasar – New. Single focus for funny eyes cost less than A$60! $$$$  High fashion and top quality Italian frames also available.

16.      Gold – Hasanuddin St, Denpasar. & bottom of Sulawesi St. 18kt. Rp59-70,000/gm. US$10/gram 22ct. (1999) (Up to Rp 85,000 as gold prices rose after September 11 2001 terrorist attacks in USA.)  Gold in Bali is a strong colour with an orange tint – is this ‘Chinese Gold’ alloy?

17.      The Denpasar Markets are not to be missed! A ‘guide’ will try to attach herself to you and demand money when you leave. They get commission from shopkeepers if you buy something – which means that you have paid extra.
Umble-umbles, or Penjor, the tall slim flags flown on bamboo poles are available on the top floor. Cost approx Rp30,000.

18.      pcMac, Jl Iman Bonjol 266 D/1, Denpasar, 489 747. Full discs Rp150,000. Might contain 2-6 programs depending on size. Fax order from hotel for credibility 24 hours before. Best of all visit a couple of days before you want to pick up the software and paya deposit of Rp2-300,000 for the software they are able to get for you.

19.      Platinum Jl Teuku Umar #242A, 231 664, [email protected]. E-mail & your order will be waiting. Generally Rp35,000/single disc program.

20.     Alternative is Sakura who will e-mail you a current DVD stock list. E-mail is [email protected] . Shops are in Jl Kartika Plaza by the Stadium Café and in Sakura Electronic store on Jl Diponegoro, Denpasar, opposite Ramayana Department store in the Rimo Supermarket.

21.      VCD’s, Ramayana, Denpasar. Rp20-25,000. 3 discs might be Rp60,000.

22.     Harry’s Jl Teuku Umar #226 773, [email protected]. Perhaps more of a computer hardware shop but there are some programs that might not be available elsewhere.

23.     Dragon Bali Computers, Jl Iman Bonjol #336G Hunt for cheap software in a big cardboard box!

24.     Rimo Supermarket in Diponegoro Street in Denpasar (just across the street from Ramayana and turn left about 100 meters) has a dedicated computer section on the 3^rd floor (including hardware and parts) and a mobile phone centre or the 2^nd floor. Almost every computer outlet in Bali has a booth here and you can save a lot of walking by trying here first.

25.     Engineering software as well as the more popular types. – Softcomp Centre. Two shops in Kuta – Jl Legion Kelod No 408C and Poppies II. Also Kuta Sidewalk Block C1, Jl Kartika Plaza, Ph (62-361) 766 104.  E-mail [email protected] for list of titles, including popular DVDs.

Computer software (all pirated of course) is great buying. If the occasional program really refuses to run you will not have lost much in cash terms. Even full blown programs such as MS Office Pro are only Rp35,000/disc – that’s about A$7.00 !!!
If you have trouble at the ‘enter the number’ stage open the disc in Explorer and then open each file icon that you can see – the copiers often put the number in the disc rather than on a piece of paper which can get lost. Look for a file called .TXT or .INFO or ‘Readme’.
Another thing to try is to re-copy a folder or file called ‘Crack’ if it is there. Right click and open the folder and paste the file. Go to the directory on C drive where the game is installed and paste the crack .exe file into it. If you get a message – ‘already exists – replace?’ Click ‘Yes’.
Failing that log on to Google (search) and try "warez" and "serial numbers" for an extensive list to help you.
Another site worth trying is http://www.gamecopyworld.com/.
If you have Windows XP and you are having problems upgrading because of ‘an incorrect serial number’ go to www.btvillarin.com/windows/links.htm#OffsiteGuides and look for miscellaneous - tweaktown.com.win.xpsp.l for updating or try www.tweaktown.com/document.php?dtype=guide&dId=350&dPage=1.
Another site is www.megagames.com, select Game Fixes.
Don’t phone Bill Gates at home and ask for after sales service!

26.     Curtains – "Korden Plaza" on way to Denpasar. Also Setia Kewan 95 Sulawesi St Denpasar.

27.     Curtains. King Turtle Shop, Jl By Pass Ngurah Rai by Perdana Hotel near Matahari Galeria.

28.     Curtains and fabric. Tatang Chaeruddin, 244 040, Sanur. Will come to hotel.

29.     Bali Oding in the main street of Sanur. Jl Danau Tamblingan #60 make curtains cushions, placemats, mosquito nets, bed covers and blinds to your measurements.

30.     Material shops – adjacent to market in Denpasar – Jl Kartini, Jl Sulawesi, Jl Thamrin (#19 – heavier fabrics) and Jl Gajahmada.

31.      Tiara Grosir - HUGE - best prices. Denpasar. (Matahari charges tourist prices.)

32.     New supermarket (in ’02) is Remo. Was a bank and has beautiful marble on all 3 floors. Good range of different gear. Cafeteria on top.

33.     Silk. Next to car park exit of Matahari Dept store. Chinese importer. Silk seams are painted (glued) with over-boiled rice before sewing. Washes out afterwards.

34.     Duta Silk House, next to Matahari’s. Fixed prices except for bulk purchases.

35.     Toko Adil on Jalan Sulawesi for batik sarongs of various qualities. Fixed price but low.

36.     Kempiana Stores, Denpasar. Very cheap prices. Patronised by locals.

37.     Leather. Rafflesia opp Isntana Gdn Rest. Bali Bch Hotel end of main street.

38.     Saga Leather and tailors. Pratama St. 89B. Ask for Terry. Ph 778 064. They will arrange transport for you from your hotel. Only a little more expensive than the Kuta/Legian shops but very good work.

39.     Leather. Wila, main St Sanur past Bali Moon & Bali Hi rests.

40.     Dijon continental deli. Cheese, dips, crackers etc. Left hand side of roundabout at God statue with coiled serpent, on road from Kuta to Sanur. It’s actually on a little slip road that parallels the roundabout, entered from off the roundabout almost opposite the Bali International Medical Centre. Well worth hunting down.

41.      Fishing tackle. There are real bargains to be had in genuine brand name gear such as Shimano but you need to know your home prices to locate them. There are four shops close the markets and to the Ramayana Department store in Denpasar. The proprietors are friendly enough to direct you to each others shop if you get to one of them. Try two very close to one another on the corner of Jl Imam Bonjol and Hasanuddin.
There is also some downstairs in Matahari’s, Denpasar but this is mainly small stuff for river fishing.
Also Sulawesi Street and Toko Lautan Mas at No 1 Imam Bonjol at Denpasar end. Also just around the corner from here. Istana Pancing on Jl Diponegoro, No 201 P{asar Sangiah Lantai No 3. This is a Shimano outlet.
UD. Sumber – Laut, Jl Sulawesi No 54, Denpasar. Ph (0361) 224 501 Fax (0361) 222 671. Open 8-4 except Sunday.
’Pancing’ shop, between No 359 and 245Jl Raya Sesetan opposite Government offices (Department Pertanian). Shop is on the right coming from Benoa heading to Denpasar.
Penn reels at about 60% of Aust prices; hooks size 2/0 at Rp35,000/100 box. That’s about Aus$6.
There is also a shop near Matahari’s in Kuta. See the Shopping section for Kuta/Tuban above.
If you want advice about fishing trips/tours there is a pro who will give you good advice. Contact [email protected].

42.     Watch Wholesalers. ‘Sylvia" Jl Dionegera, Denpasar. About Rp30,000/watch. Go early so that if any play up you can take them back.

43.     Circle-K Mini Mart. Just north of La Taverna.

44.     Hand blended perfume (not the 5 minute street variety) in Denpasar Market. Small stall opposite material sellers in street. Small vials Rp10,000/ml.

45.     Camera repairs. Call ‘Iwan’, (Ivan?) Ph (0361) 486 961 or 081 2397 7974. Address registered in Bali Traveller Guide. Terminal Tegal Sari 27, Jalan Imam Bonjol, Denpasar.

46.     Robinsons is a new department store opposite Matahari’s in Denpasar. Similar to Ramayana but more specials (at least for the time being – ’02).

47.     A fairly new shop for gifts (’04) is Ajaib on Jl Danau Posco towards the By Pass Road.

48.     Also on Jl Danau Posco is a shop that sells ceremonial stuff such as offering trays. Umbrellas etc.

49.     For ladies shoes try Sara B near the Gazebo Hotel.

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EATING.

The Sanur beach strip is very attractive at night. The area is well lit and all prices are reasonable.

1.        Koki Bar & Restaurant, ‘Decent steaks’ (this comment from an American) but best is the lamb. Rp40-50,000. Austrian owners. On the By Pass road to Sanur. Above Sanur-average prices but huge servings. Well kept beer. This report was pre the 2002 departure of highly respected chef, Olaf, who now operates from the Arena Sports Bar. ( See 47 below). I have no current reports.

2.       Wayang Rest., Sanur. Great desserts from bakery next door.

3.       Kumi Sama on the beach not far from the Besakih Hotel is cheap and good.

4.       Pantai Cemara, Sanur.

5.       Japun, Sanur.

6.       Poco Loco’s, Mexican.

7.       Flintstones Warung, Sanur. Opposite Trophy Bar & Puri Santrian entrance.

8.       Café 2003, on the island of Nusa Lembongan, off Sanur.

9.       Gadang Light Café/Rest., Sanur. Run by Mansu.

10.    Mango Bar, Sanur. Up the beach from the Gazebo Hotel. Dinner serves are smallish but the food is not too bad.

11.     Made’s Warung, Sanur. Next door to Gazebo. Breakfast.

12.    Made’s Frangipanni. Good food and staff.

13.    Spago Rest, Sanur. A bit more up-market than most. Quality slipping? (’02). Austrian owner.

14.    Chicken Hertz. Top floor of Ramayana. Seniors discount Rp18,000, normal Rp22,000. Wide selection of excellent food. Very clean.

15.    Kalimantan Bar & Restaurant. No.11 Jl Pantai Sindhu. (North Sanur.)

16.    Bonsai, on the beach for a great American breakfast app Rp15,000 (A$3 !)  Not so good for dinners if you expect to satisfy your hunger. Yes, there are heaps of bonsai plants to inspect.

17.    The Basilico is a recent addition to the beachfront in southern Sanur. Italian of course. A little more upmarket than many.

18.    Kalpatharu. Jl Tambling opposite Hotel Besakih. Best breakfast Rp9,000 all u can eat. Nice ambience. Children’s traditional dancing on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday is good. Good idea to book, table 11 is nice. Big winner in the food stakes.

19.    Mango’s Café Restaurant (not on the beach). in the main street has excellent food but the serves are smallish by Bali standards.  Children’s traditional dancing on Wednesdays and Fridays.

20.   Mango’s on the beach. Live music and cocktails. Sort of the nightclub of Sanur. Food passable but not great. ’03.

21.    Le Pirate Café. ‘Best meal in Bali’. At Segara Village. Pasta w/ cream mushrooms and bacon!!

22.   Benno’s Bar. Good breakfast (A$4 w/. coffee), lunch and coffee. Dinners are small. Good toilets.

23.   Best breakfast at Tamarind in Sanur. Also British Honorary Consul. Full Irish b/fast best.

24.   Bobbies Restaurant on the beach at Sanur. Great view.

25.   Try the bakery at the Gazebo Hotel for pastries.

26.   Donalds. Main street Sanur. A$15 for 2 incl beers and soft drinks. Good for breakfast.

27.   The Mezzanine, Sanur. An off-shoot of the Puri Santrian hotel has an extensive menu of dishes including traditional Balinese. Chef has overseas experience and loves to chat about her family in Australia. Live music each night. Dinner & drinks for four Rp300,000 includes drinks and taxes. Worth a taxi ride if you’re not close enough to walk.

28.   Segara Village Co-operative, Sanur. Some of the profit helps the local school. Good food and an exceptional location. Great for children who can play on the beach between courses.

29.   Lotus Pond Sanur.

30.   Randy’s and Made’s cafes on the main street of Sanur are great for casual snacks.

31.    Arry’s (or Arri’s) Café No. 7 Jl Pantai Sindhu. English style menu items. One of the best in Sanur about 5 mins from the beach. 2 entrees, 2 main courses, 2 large Bintangs about Rp60 – 70,000 rather than the Rp90 – 120,000 of the beach-side places. Tasty food and generous servings.

32.   Retro Café, central Sanur. Upmarket but reasonable prices for good food.

33.   Benno’s. Sanur, near the Segara Village Bungalows.

34.   Bucu Warung, good, (but near McDonalds – Yuk!).

35.   Kalemantan Restaurant, Sanur. On left of road to Sindhu Beach. Near sports restaurant.

36.   Not Sindhu Beach Café except for Bali Crepe – palm sugar and coconut with ice-cream.

37.   Essence Restaurant & Bar was opposite entrance to Puri Santrian, Sanur but has now (’04) opened at 235X Jl Petitenget in Kerobokan. Ginger Ice cream and other flavours!!! Now opening for breakfasts from 8.00 am.

38.   Mamma Putu’s on the beach near Jl Kesumasari. (This end of Sanur has the nicest beach.)

39.   Paseban Warung at Canggu, west of Denpasar & off the roads to Tanah Lot. Owned by Nyoman who is Grand Hyatt chef. Ayam Goreng Rp7,000, Nasi Goreng Special Rp5,000, Mie Goreng Rp5,000, Cap Chay Rp4,500 etc. – of course the food is superb!

40.   Hong Kong. The best Chinese in Bali. Genuine Cantonese. Gaja Mada, Denpasar.

41.    Kak Man, about half way between Sanur & Denpasar in Jl Teuku Umar, has a genuine Balinese menu favoured by olde Bali salt. Si Badak of Forum fame (or notoriety).

42.   Village Restaurant. At Massemo’s. App 50 paces from Besakih hotel on opposite side of the road. Superb Italian cuisine. Try Bruschetta !!!! or Spinach Ravioli in Bolognese Sauce !!! Great pizzas too. A bit dearer than the cheaper places in Bali but worth it.

43.   Sudut Senang (‘The Cosy Corner’) on Jl Danau Tamblingan No 150, Sanur. New ’02.

44.   Café Batu Jimbar, Sanur. Always fresh vegetables grown by the owners.

45.   The Nouveau is in south Sanur near the Sanur Beach hotel. Bistro and Wine Cellar.  Much better than the over-rated Mezzanine.

46.   Bonsai Gardens. On the beach path. B/fasts Rp18,000. Good food. Real bonsai plants for sale.

47.    Bonsi Rest., Sanur. Nice food but the serves are a bit small and 20% tax is added rather than the usual 10%.

48.   Bonsai Café. Best breakfasts. Nothing quite like eating with the sand between your toes. Squirrels and a lizard for entertainment.

49.   Some places like the Segara Agung Restaurant and the Matahari Beach Café are nice but read the fine print at the bottom of the menu – 20% tax and service charges instead of the more usual 10%.

50.   Warung Toot Sie on the beach. Run by the same Toot Sie as the famous fixed price stall in the Sindhu Beach Markets. New in 2002 and making a good name so far.

51.    Gateway of India. South of the Bali Hyatt Hotel on Jl Danau Tamblingan. (Also in Seminyak & Kuta) For lovers of Indian foods. Would not be out of place anywhere in upmarket India. This one has the nicest atmosphere but the curries are a bit ‘westernised’. The prices in all three restaurants are very moderate. The Seminyak outlet has the best reputation but Indian eaters should try them all.

52.   Mira on Jl Tamblingan. Great fruit juices. Chinese owner. Chinese omelette! Mie goreng!.

53.   Olaf, renowned chef now works from the Arena Sports Bar or the By-Pass road near McDonalds in Sanur (the owner of Koki’s where he was previously didn’t know when he was on a good thing and killed the goose that regularly laid the golden eggs.

54.   At the village of Mas which is between Sanur and Ubud is the Stiff Chilli Pizzeria, set amongst the rice fields. Mainly Thai and Italian menu and with home made sausages of several varieties. You can eat formally in the dining room or at ease by the pool. An offshoot of the similarly named place at Ulu Watu.

55.   Trophy Pub Rest. Sanur.

56.   Qui Qui, near the Mezzanine, has great food and live music regularly.

57.   Agung Pub & Restaurant, Sanur. Excellent seafood.

58.   Kalimantan Rest. Somerset Maugham atmosphere.

59.   The Jazzy Café used to be the Mykonos in Sanur. The kiosk at the front serves great ice-cream. On the main street, Jl Danau Tamblingan near a Circle K (those places seem very expensive) on the corner of the lane to the beach and the Bonsai Café. Live music 5 times a week (except Mon Tues).

60.   Café Kesuma is good but off the tourist track.

61.    Savitri Café is an inexpensive Indian delight. It is next to the Sanur Golf Course. Caters to vegetarians.

62.   Massimo’s, the village Italian restaurant in Sanur is a secret gem. Great food and drinks, great service, great prices – A$15/head. Mainly Italian with flair and superb sweets. Highly recommended by none other than Bali Eats and the staff of Bali Update!

63.   The Chick 2 Salon is run by Massimo who was the manager/head chef at the restaurant of that name but has now (’04) opened his own place. Worth a visit or two.

64.   Alise’s Restaurant in the Tamukami Hotel, Jl Danau Tamblingan No64X. Much better than average.

65.   Try the Gazebo Piazza next to the Gazebo Hotel in the main street. Half a dozen shops, food drinks, tours, gifts etc.

66.   The restaurants at the Griya Sanrian Hotel (4*) are excellent in both quality and setting on the beach edge. The prices are very reasonable, a two course meal for two with drinks being about A$20

67.   In Denpasar there are not many eateries that attract attention but one that has is Hongkong Restoran International just over the bridge from the markets on Jl Gaja Mada, No 99. It’s in the corner of a 3 story building, like the market building itself, on the left hand side of the road.

68.   Also in Denpasar in 2003 is Sun City in the foyer of the shopping complex just off Jl Umar Teku at 208. Lots of seafood and dim sum at lunch.

69.   Gazebo Restauirant, Sanur. Snapper Rp13,000 with potatoes from the open fire, chilli sauce and salad. Large Bintang Rp10,000. Fruit juices.

70.   Pirates Restaurant on the beachfront boardwalk in Sanur has great pasta and live music occasionally. The setting, with the fairy lights along the walk, is nice.

71.    Warung Agung is near the roundabout in Sanur and is worth a visit.

72.   If you turn left at the roundabout and head towards the beach you’ll find the Stiff Chilli Restaurant almost at the end. It opened with a goog reputation and it still has it (’04).

73.   There are two Donalds Restaurants that are worth trying for nice simple food. The better one is opposite the Santrian Hotel (and the Mezzanine restaurant !!!)

74.   The Village Restaurant has an Italian flavout to the menu. On the main road towards the northern (Denpasar) end on the left. Nice atmosphere.

75.   The Arena Sports Café has good German food and plenty of it. Run by well respected Olaf who used to keep Koki’s on the boil. The bar is open till late.

76.   I’m Jazz is a live music venue where you can listen to the renown jazz and blues guitar of Ireng Maulana and others. The food is still good and the drinks generously sized. Where Mykonos once stood at number 27 on Jl Danau Tamblingan in Sasnur. Reservations Ph 835 5005.

DRINKING.

1. Mades Pub, Sanur.
2. Bar Apa Kabar, Sanur. Mango Bar and Bonsai Bar, on the beach.
3. The Gazebo for cocktails.
4. The Bar is a new cocktail bar near Jazzy Café and the Circle K. Small but stylish.
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VISITING

1. Sulawesi St., Sanur
2. Kombarassi Markets, Sanur.
3. Bird Market, Sanur.
4. Munduk waterfall.
5. Batu Karu temple.
6. Moon Temple – Hugh, ancient cast bronze metal drum.
7. Gunung Kawi temple. 2 km walk but great views and carvings on hillside.
8. Tirta Empul temple. Water temple fed by springs.
9. Agricultural centre near Tirta Empul. Find out about Bali’s fruits.
10. The Museum in Denpasar. It’s not world class but interesting if you have a bent towards local history and culture.
11. A better museum is the Mega Gallery of Art in Tohpati, on the road to Celuk from Sanur. Less than 200 paces from the roundabout. Large Dutch style, white building. Has a great jewellery display. Jl Gianyar, km 5.7, Tophati, Denpasar. Cold drinks available. Lots of room and no crowding.
12. Sarangan Island (the infamous Turtle Island) just off the coast south of Sanur has a unique and spectacular white coral temple, Pura Sakenan. Be prepared to rush through the sellers who will crowd you when the boat arrives. There are still ‘jukungs’ with multi coloured sails working from the quiet island. The turtle breeding compounds are interesting but depressing.
13. There is a new monument to the struggle of the Balinese for independence since 1945. More of a museum of history than a monument it is in the Niti Mandala Park, Denpasar.
14. East and north from Ubud will take you towards Tampaksiring, about a third of the way to Mount Batur. Along this road you will pass through many little craft villages. Get your driver to drop you at the top of the rise at a place like Tagalalang and follow you down hill as you browse the fascinating shops.
15. The Bali Orchid Garden is on the main road going from Sanur to Kusamba, Padang Bai, Candi Dasa and Amed, only a little way out of Sanur. There are many varieties if orchids, heliconia and frangipanni as well as Fungii. All are carefully displayed and labelled. Guides will show you around and explain the workings to you. Admission and guides are free. The proud owner is Troy, known to Bali Travel Forumites as ‘Fat Bastard’ who helped out many anxious Aussies with news of friends and information following the Kuta bombing.
    Bali Orchid Garden, Jl Bypass Tohpati-Kusamba, Bali. Phone 466 010. Web page is www.baliorchidgarden.com . If you want to set up a Bali style garden at home this is a must-visit.

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DOING. The nightlife is not really swinging but gasoline Alley, opposite the entrance to the Besakih Hotel is about as good as it gets.

1. Chic @ Sanur. Aromatherapy. Main street opp. Besakih. Spa and manicure – fabulous.
2. Try the Natural Spa on the main street of Sanur. Take care not to walk into the tree branch that hangs across the footpath at the front. Offering 50% off in July ’03. Don’t take the 30% discount vouchers that you can buy on the street. $48 for the works.
3. Sulawesi Street gold sellers.
4. Kombarasi Markets. The main markets.
5. The Satria markets are not far from the main Denpasar markets and sell pets to the locals. Great way to see some of the wild life up close.
6. Bird market.
7. Kite flying.
8. Visit the rice management museum at Tabanan.
9. Lots of water sports at the beach when the tide is in. Parasailing, Banana Boats etc.
10. Ride a green bemo mini van local transport. Rp1,000 each to ride around the streets. Simple sightseeing and fun.
11. Hello Internet Café, top floor of Ramayana Department Store.
12. Early morning bicycle tours from Sanur Beach Hotel. A$15 great value. 3.5 hours. Easy and safe as you go early in the morning when tourist activity is at a minimum. Watch out for holes in the road.
    Tours also go from the Raddison Hotel. Ask for Putu Budi on (62 361) 288 833. Putu has excellent English skills so you will easily understand the wealth of information she is able to pass on. The tour is through the original village of Sanur with several stops and even a complimentary water bottle just when you think you might need it. You’ll see the Banyan tree at the cemetery where the spirits live, the temple, local markets and rice fields in all stage of growth.
13. * Big Game Fishing. ‘Atlantis", Jalan Tamblingan #188 Sanur between Sanur Beach Hotel & Puri Santrian. Very professional, British organisation. Keith. Ph/fax 283 676. [email protected] US$120 for 6 hours. Discount for 4+.
    * See also www.baliwaves.com which loks like a surfing site (which it is) but there are also fishing charters from Tuban. E-mail [email protected].
14. Bali Orchid Gardens. (Bali Taman Angrek.) Open daily 9 – 6 pm. Just north of Sanur on the Jl By Pass in Tohpati village, Kusamba 1/9X, Bali. Ph 62 361 466 010. http://www.indo.com/services/baliorchidgarden.htm  The gardens are owned by an ex-pat named Troy (also known to readers of the Bali Travel Forum as ‘Fat Bastard’) who searched for Balines friends of Forumites after the Kuta bombing and provided up to date and accurate information that was appreciated by many. Guides are available to show you through the gardens and explain the daily workings. From memory I think that there are over 5000 different varieties of orchids, helonicas and fungi.
15. On the way to Kintamani stop at the Buana Mertha Tourism and Spice Centre in Bengli. Spices, teas, coffees, traditional medicines.
16. Give Harmony Spa in Sanur a miss, particularly if you’re after a wax. OUCH !!!
17. Legong and Frog dances at the Swastika Restaurant.
18. Have a hair crème bath at Yopie Salon on the top floor of Ramayana. Rp13,000. A scalp, neck and shoulder massage is included. Wonderful relaxation before starting shopping again. Cut and blow dry Rp25,000 and as good as home.

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DRIVERS.

1. Ida Bagus Ketut Suartana ‘Suarta?’ (‘Gustut’), in front of Baruna Beach Inn, Sanur.
2. Made Wirya Adnyana. Home phone (361) 429 435, Mob 0818 343 093. Familiar with local orphanages. Reliable.
3. Gede Ariana. Has a Mitsubishi Colt 7 seater with A/C. Much better than trying to squeeze 4 or more into the usual Kijang when it’s hot and sticky.  Good English.  Fully insured with Tourist Authority credentials that leads to a drive with fewer hassles with police and some protection in case of a mishap on the road.  Usually found outside Baruna Hotel, Sanur, or Ph 361 29 9411 (home), 361 28 9291 (Fax), 8123 955 640 (mobile), E-mail [email protected].

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PEOPLE.

Warsi (Pron. ‘Varsi’), Satriavi Tours, Sanur.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Standard).

1. Besakih Hotel, Sanur. Clean. A/C. Central. Cheap-good value. On the beach which is good for children swimming. There is an ‘authorised’ money changer just outside the hotel, on the main road, who is reported to be honest. Best beach in Sanur but still not Bondi! Property runs through to main street. Good choice of shopping and restaurants/cafes very close. Bemo rides from one end of Sanur to the other are Rp1,000. 2 storey rooms and bungalows. Bungalows best. 215 closest to the beach. Other good ones are 219, 220, 221,222,227 also 223,224,225,226. 2 pools and swim-up bar at the hotel. Kumi Sama café just down the beach towards the markets is cheap and great food.
2. Bumi Ayu Hotel Sanur. Ph 829 101, fax +62 361 287 517. Jl Bumi Ayu, SANUR, Bali. PO Box 511 Denpasar 80001. Balinese owned & operated. Large rooms. Very clean and good value. Good restaurant food at street prices, no-cost room service. Well kept gardens. Friendly & helpful staff. Good packages available. Freight office next to hotel. ‘The Sri Ratu of the east coast!’ http://www-baliku.tripod.com/bumiayu.html .
3. Tabanan (north west of Denpasar) Yeh Panas Hotel. Great views of rice paddies. Hot springs
4. Grand Bali Beach. The original Bali hotel, it even has opening windows in the tower rooms 6 floors up. Higher than any others. Burnt and re-built. Tower wing a bit tired now but attention to cleanliness is fastidious. Garden rooms great. Refurbished Garden Cottages fabulous, other Cottages are not. The reception staff are not friendly but the rest of the staff almost makes up for them. Pool lounges are notorious for being in totally short supply. Ground surfaces outside the buildings are very un-even. Drink prices are sky high.
5. Hotel Sanur Beach. Once quite a reliable resort hotel but it has suffered the ravages of time. The quality is below the asking price in all respects.
6. Radisson Suites, now known as the Sanur Paradise Plaza Suites following a change of ownership early in ‘03. Try the Dim Sum free-flow lunch while you’re there. Not right on the beach which is really only a short walk at the end of the street. Excellent value.
7. The Sanur Paradise Plaza (don’t confuse it with the Suites, above, has ‘Camp Splash’ great for kids (and therefore for parents). Two bedroom apartments available.
8. Swastika Bungalows. Room 81. The swastika symbol is recognised by most Europeans as a Nazi emblem but in fact that is a corruption of the original Hindu symbol signifying peace and beauty. The bungalows really reflect that. The pool is great with two pool bars. Friendly staff throughout. US$31/night A/C with fridge and breakfast. Great feeling about the place.
9. Gazebo Hotel. . Good food. Live music with dinner. No TV but free movie every pm. 4-5 pm free coffee and tea in the front bakery. 2 pools plus a kiddies splasher (but poor pool towels). Beach not good on this section. Two storey suites, b/room upstairs. Outdoor bathrooms great. Try the Managers Bike Ride Tues or Sat. 6.30 am start. Very interesting local tour of markets, rice fields, back streets, beach, lots of local flavour. App 10 km.
10. Puri Santrian Hotel is 5* at reasonable 3* rates. Refurbished in ’02. www.santrian.com/ .Low rise with less than 200 rooms, 3 pools and a nice beach.
11. Peenda Beach Hotel. A quiet place with a colonial atmosphere in the sedate southern end of Sanur next to the Bali Hyatt.  Balinese style bungalows. Nice seafront lounge and restaurant. Family unit (2 connecting rooms), 4 people, ensuite, terrace, A/C, T/V, breakfast – US$60/night.
12. Griya Santrian, (4*), in central Sanur. Garden View rooms nice but the Superior Beach-Wing rooms are super large. Huge bed and 3-piece lounge, satellite TV. Nice pool but there is a habit of ‘reserving’ sun lounges by putting towels on them early in the morning but not using them until much later. Within walking distance of the Sindhu Beach markets. Good food at the two beach front restaurants. Great Café latte.
13. Avoid the Parigata Villas in Sanur. ‘VILE’. The Parigata Resort which is nearby seems not associated with the Villas and might be OK.
14. The Sativa is in southern Sanur, back a bit from the beach between the Hyatt and the Puri Santrian. Small, ten two-storey traditional huts around a nice pool. Good buffet breakfast. Large airy rooms, fridge and good shower

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ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

1. Hotel Sinar Bali, Jl Padma Utara.
2. Puri Dalem Hotel. 5 min walk to beach. Very friendly.
3. Trophy Ayu Bungalows. Rp150,000 for A/C room with b/fast.
4. Bali Holiday Resort. Facilities just passable but great food. A bit out of the way even with the free Kuta shuttle.
5. Avoid Puri Mango Guesthouse.
6. Gazebo Cottages. Rp3000,000 / room for 3.
7. Ailit’s Beach Bungalows in Sanur cater for single travellers.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Not Cheap)

1. Le Meridien - near Tanah Lot temple. Secluded – isolated – self contained – superior in all respects.

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NUSA LEMBONGAN ISLAND - OFF SANUR.

Website to visit is www.lembongan-discovery.com

Seaweed farming in the coastal shallows is one of the main industries on Lembongan. There are not many others. The water is very clear for scuba diving and snorkelling, better than along the Bali coast – best off Nusa Penida, the smaller island almost joined to Lembongan. Cross over the bridge.

Mushroom Bay is a bit up-market, small Bintangs are Rp15,000 each and you’re supposed to return the bottles, or else Rp5,000 for those missing! – Jungubatu is more about the village way of life – Chelegem Bay is great for quieter swimming and snorkelling.

Don’t go for the shopping – it’s virtually non-existent. There are not a lot of places to eat outside of the hotels/bungalows and the prices are a bit steep in comparison with Bali although the food is generally quite good.

The following information from Freogirl is current at the beginning of September ’03.

(1)Take Perama shuttle and book in advance (especially for the amount of people you are talking about - when I was there in late June they were using quite a small boat as the bigger one was being repaired). www.hallofreun.de/perama-e.html.
(2)You may not find accom for that many people at one place. But then again you may. Lots of the places on Jungubatu are simply 'turn up and see what's available on the day" - that said, there are a number of choices, so you might find a couple of places next to each other that can help you. Be flexible and leave a few with the luggage while a few go searching. (By the way - there will be touts who try to get you to 'their' bungalows - you can ignore them or not, it's up to you)
(3)Surf breaks are close to shore - some easy enough to get to by walking then swimming, others you can get a local to take you out in a boat. Ditto for snorkelling - the best is at Nusa Penida which requires a boat trip (we did 5 of us at 35,000rp each ($7) for half a day - v. good value)
(4)I stayed at No. 1 - and left because a rat was eating my soap and earplugs - but there are rats everywhere, even in the nicer places. No. 1 had a great location. Puri Nusa was newer but I didn't stay there. Think it cost about the same.
(5)Bridge to Ceningen isn't that far from Jungubatu - maybe 15 minutes on motorbike or a bit longer on pushbike. It took me about 2 hours to ride round island on pushbike with a boat ride through the mangroves thrown in the middle.
(6)Mushroom Bay is the furthest bay from Jungubatu and has the ritziest resorts. You can walk there from Jungubatu round the coast. I thought it was a bit soul less and uninteresting.
Tamarind Cottages are actually in Chelegembai, which is the second bay around the coast from Jungubatu. They are 3 or 4 fairly new cottages at the far end of Chelegembai - a bit out in the open I thought, but looked nice inside. Devils Tear is close to the Ceningen side of the island - quite a spectacular blowhole thing, and close to Dream Beach, which is a nice sandy beach that boasts an excellent sunset viewing restaurant now. I walked to all these places from Chelegembai, but if you're not into walking a local will give you a lift on a motorbike (or hire you one) for a price.
(7) A good map of Lembongan is hard to come by - even those you get on the island can miss things out. (A reasonable map is available at www.balihaicruises.com/Lembongan-map-big.html .)

The trick with the rats is NOT to leave your soap out of its dish - they are hungry and will eat anything! (The earplug was a real surprise!) Basically, don't have edible stuff in your room and they will probably stay away.

I paid 70,000rp per night at ‘No. 1’, which included breakfast, but others beat them down further (I think $15 a night is pretty good in anyone's language!) and I think it was similar at other places on the beach. Nothing was full in late June, can't see that it will be all that different now. The touts get a cut if they install you, so you will probably negotiate a better price without them.

I ate at ‘No. 1’, and at a number of other restaurants and bungalows around - the staple is sublimely fresh fish (mostly tuna and mackerel) with salad or chips and veg. Ketut's Warung, behind the Mainski Inn, was good value and just had a couple of 'dishes of the day'. Ketut is a delight and will cook according to your tastes. Villa Wayan in Chelegembai had a superb menu at reasonable prices - a little more upmarket but not expensive.

If I was going again I'd still stay on Jungubatu, but would have a good wander before I settled on something - when you're on your own you often get lazy and take the first or second thing you find. Have to say I got a fantastic deal at Villa Wayan for the last few days, 150,000 rp for beautiful cottage and breakfast - its well worth it as it's a gorgeous setting, great swimming, and you can swim out to great snorkelling too.

But the real budget stuff is in Jungubatu - perhaps a little more at the Nusa Penida end of the beach.

Hi - I think there are a few stories going around about Villa Wayan and I'm not sure which is true. I know they were looking at selling part of it when I was there but had no buyer as such at that time. It wasn't being renovated in June. There are 2 types of rooms -I stayed in a separate bungalow behind the main area, and then there are two places with groups of rooms - but those rooms all have their own ensuite, just communal relaxing areas. It's quite gorgeous.
And sorry - no direct email that I'm aware of - you can book through somewhere in Kuta, but I just walked up one morning and fell in love with the place. However, one of the managers is Ketut and here is is email address (he doesn't check it every day though!) its [email protected] .

The Nusa Lembongan Express Service, Ph 287-431 departs daily from Sanur. Hotel transfers included at US$18 each return. 40 minutes each way. (?) This is the only service to return same day. Goes to Chelegimbai. Day trips are not very flexible if you want to do your own thing. Discuss when booking. The on-shore Day Trip facilities (if you can get off the boat) are good but the staff reticent. Not good snorkelling. Boring for children on board. Take precautions if you’re prone to seasickness.

Perama’s shuttle leaves from Sanur harbour (not Benoa Harbour) at 10.30 am and is Rp35-50,000 one way. It lands at Jungubatu Beach where there are a number of budget accommodation options available. If you want to go to a different bay you can get a boat from here. A boat also leaves from Nusa Lembongan at 8.30 am. The trip takes one and a half hours in reasonable weather. The Perama office on Lembongan is in Madara Beach Bungalows. Perama timetables at www.hallofreun.de/perama-e.html. or www.peramatour.co.

The Pondok Baruna has sea view bungalows at Jungbatu Beach with two double beds for Rp70,000.

Bali Hai Cruises also do the Island run with a luxury catamaran. 2 1/2 hours or A$10 extra to travel on the Ocean Raft which is VERY quick – 40 min. The village tour on the island is not great – seems to be mainly a way of isolating you with the local sellers. Almost everything is included in the tour price including transfers to/from your hotel, with snorkelling and Banana Boat rides, glass bottom boat, buffet meal. Kids welcomed. US$39 pp.

Sail Sensations runs a huge catamaran across to the island. Can be used for day trips.

Small public boats are quite dangerous. They depart from Sanur Beach near Grand Bali Beach hotel daily at 7am. to 8.30. Takes 2 hrs. Own transport required to departure point. No bookings required. Rp40,000 each, one way. Land at Jungu Batu Beach, which is not the nicest area. The ticket office, Ph287 431, is near the Ananda Hotel. If you’re determined try to sit near the front where the few lifejackets are stored under the foredeck. The boats return about 3 or 4 pm.

After the bombing in Kuta there are many vacancies available on the island. It is better (financially) to go and look at what’s available rather than book ahead. Savings of up to 50% are possible. Don’t take too much notice of the touts who meet the boats.

No 1 Bungalows are on the beachfront. Rp70,000 incl B/fast. 2 double beds, fan, bathroom, big veranda. Three good surf breaks within swimming distance of the bungalows.

Puri Nusa, Jungbatu Bai, Rp100,000/night for extended stay, family accom – 2 adults + 3 children. Rp150,000 for 1 night only.

You can stay overnight (or two) at a budget place such as the Mainski, Rp50,000/night.

It is easy to hire small motorbikes on the island and use them to tour around the coastal road and through the small villages of Desa Lembongan and Jungut Batu. The trip takes about an hour non-stop.  A small bridge will take you to the smallest island, Nusa Ceningan, where you can see the caves in the ocean cliffs that yield swallows nests, a food delicacy. 

The island next to Lembongan is Nusa Ceningan. You can hire bikes to get there from Lembongan. The suspension bridge across is an experience worth having and gives a good view of the seaweed farms. A visit to the school here will be welcomed, particularly if you come bearing school gifts.
The largest and most distant of this island group is Penida. It has every thing to extremes – secluded, dazzling sand beaches – wild cliffs facing the thunderous ocean – absolute wilderness – caves – quiet snorkelling – isolation.

The island is a producer of seaweeds.

Visit Crystal Bay on the western coast of Nusa Penida.

Good snorkelling. Glass bottom boats. Interesting hand dug, extensive underground cave.

Contact: [email protected] . Simon aka ‘Zontius’ is a White Knight of Bali, active in all sorts of aid ventures. Donations are always welcome for any of his causes and the full dollar always gets to its intended destination.

Eat at Coconut Beach Resort – excellent hamburgers.

2.         Villa Wayan at Chelegem Bai is US$30 for room, US$40/night for 2 incl. breakfast. Was 4th best small hotel / restaurant in Bali 2001. Lots of steps to go up and down here. Private beach. Ketut is the ambassador for the island and guide to guests – friendly, helpful and very proud of the island. Different styles of accommodation. The Coral House is on the sea front, the Manor House further back (Manor House is unusual. Only 5 couples max. Private quarters open to outside. Large open living area encourages social interaction) and Villa Wayan up on the cliff. No A/C. Great views. Good snorkelling off the beach. Trips to Crystal Bay (Bai) are easy to arrange. Restaurant food is good.

3.         Chelegimbai Manor House has 7 double bedrooms / can be rented privately at US 285 a night or US 39 for room. Huge living areas and lookout tower.

4.         Kokopalms Hideaway is in Chelegimbai and is US 18 a room inc b/fast.
(Note: above 3 hotels are a group and won best operated business in all Asean countries in April this year, and are all set in a private beach.

5.         ‘Ketut Bungalows’ next to Mainski Inn, Rp60,000/night for newer rooms – Clean but no soap or toilet paper (Oct 2000). Jungut Batu Beach. Mainski Inn is not a great place to stay unless you’re into a lot of noise but the food is good downstairs.

6.         Also Pondok Baruna Rp50,000/night. Peaceful.

7.         Kokopalms. Approx A$50/night (US$22) incl. Breakfast.

8.         Coconuts Beach Resort. Lots of climbing up and down to parts of resort. Similar to Villa Wayan but a bit more upmarket. Views of Mt Agung across the straits. Good pool. [email protected]  www.bali-activities.com . New management ’03. Renovations being undertaken. 2001 prices US$47 for fan cooled double room/night plus $10 per extra person. Nice – you can roll up the blinds during the day. A/C rooms US$67.

9.         Hi Tide Huts. Nice setting on the edge of and overlooking the beach. Two levels, steep stairs, thatch roof, comfortable and romantic. Day-trippers tend to invade the pool. There are four communal bathroom, but they are private.  The beach-side huts are worth the extra $10. At least one traveller has been embarrassed by staff rudely not accepting the ‘freebies’ included in their package. They recommend having a photocopy of all documents. AppAUS$90/night.
Drinks are cheaper at the restaurant to the left of the Huts.

10.      Waka Nusa. More expensive – up to US$215.

11.       Bounty is similar to Bali Hi Tide. – Some rooms have A/C.

12.      Putu’s B & B.

13.      Good food and service at Mushroom Bay, a bungalow estate on the northern end of the beach on a coral cliff above the Bali Hai Beach Club, run by Made Kester who evidently refuses to sell out to the Bali Hai Group. Available for drinks and meals even if you’re not staying there. ‘A million dollar view’.

14.      Out the back gates of the Hai Tide Huts you will find Adi’s Restaurant. Basic, cheap, clean, very nice food with a nice upstairs area.

15.      At Tamarind Beach, the first road after Adi’s, about a 10 minute walk, there is a little restaurant with a sand floor to the left on the beach. There are also bungalows here. The owner is Ketut and he knows a quick way back to the Hai Tide Huts. The restaurant at Dream Beach will pick you up in a BMW. Nice food, sunsets.

16.      The Nusa Lembongan Restaurant has great food but the prices match. Their bungalows are luxurious but with little outlook.

17.      Wayan’s B & B. Aussie with of local man runs nice place.

18.      Mushroom Beach Bungalows. On the headland of Tanjung Sanghyang overlooking the bay next to Bali Hai Tide Resort. Rp200,000/room/night including taxes and breakfast.

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# 6 - UBUD DISTRICT SECTION.

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Go to Ubud soon and enjoy it before it self-destructs & becomes a suburban clone of Kuta.

Jalan Raya is the main street through Ubud. There is one main crossroad with the markets on one corner, the old palace on another. The town hall is on the third corner and a tourist information facility on the remaining one. This is an easy starting point and reference point for your investigations of the town and your driver will surely park here. The markets start very early in the morning and its best to be there as early as you can. There is a nice general map that will give you a good idea of the layout at www.geocities.com/baliguide/ubudmap.html. 

Ubud is recognised as the centre of the arts, particularly the painting/graphic arts, of Bali – although there are any number of other towns that will dispute this. Shopping at the Ubud markets will quite often reveal goods that are half the price if identical things in Kuta/Legian/Sanur and certainly Nusa Dua.

The taxis in Ubud do not have meters. Agree on a price before you get in.

SHOPPING. -

Change your money in the south if possible as you will find lower rates in the northern areas. Ubud tailors are not as good as those in the southern tourist areas. Check the museums before you negotiate for paintings and other art works. Quality and price vary wildly. Galleries will quote you in US$, often without saying so.

1. Tegallalang Village north of Ubud. Woodcarving. Xmas decorations and flowers in roadside shops. Better than more noted carving villages. At Tegalalang there are some great light shades to be had at roadside shops. Only 15 minutes from Monkey Forest road. Beautiful scenery on the way too.
2. King Silver at Do Drop Inn, behind soccer field.
3. Purpa Silver shop. Monkey Forest Road, on the right just south of the soccer pitch. Greatest range of chains. Dads can change money and get a Bintang at the same time.
4. Serephim for sterling silver. On Monkey Forest road towards the sanctuary end. Not cheap but excellent quality, even by European standards. Contemporary designs. Fixed prices are reasonable – from US$30. Re-sizing no cost.
5. Mentari Pagi Silver – opposite Seraphim (see above). Modern & antique styles. Cash only. US$15 min. Bargaining required.
6. There are many silversmiths in and near Ubud. Many will work to your design as a matter of course, but the cost will be higher if a one-off mould is needed for the piece. See Bandem Community of Silversmiths in Singapadu near Ubud.
7. Alamkara Exquisite Jewellery. Jl Dewi Sita. Fixed prices. Bracelets app RP250,000, necklaces Rp370,000.
8. Ebony Gallery in Mas. Master Carver.
9. Seniwati Gallery exhibits only female artists. Some striking exhibitions. Ph 975 485.
10. Jazz Café. Wood items for sale too.
11. Sukawati Markets near Ubud. The markets that the sellers use. Source of Umble-umbles or Penjor, (amongst many other things) the tall slim flags flown on bamboo poles throughout Bali. Don’t go if you suffer from claustrophobia, or if you must then stick to the street stalls.
12. Ubud markets. Different goods to Kuta, particularly watches if you search.
13. Casa Lina Homewards. On Jl Raya Lungsiakan near the bridge. Tremendous range of goods.
14. Kuluk Gallery also for homewards. In Kedewatan north of the Neka Museum, before Amandari Hotel.
15. Babylon near Kukuk Gallery ‘is a treat for the senses’ – up-market homewards.
16. Wardani’s on Monkey Forest Road, about across from football pitch, for fabrics. Will custom make for you.
17. Delta Dewata Supermarket.
18. Rai Pasti Tailor on Monkey Forest Road, south of Café Wayan and on the opposite side.
19. Pesona Antiques – Br Gentong, Tegallalang (0361 901 578) for small furniture and nick knacks. Different. Cheap.
20. Near Pesona Antiques are Bali Jaya Abadi and I Made Dana Shop (Dream Catchers) (081 238 04504).
21. Wind Chimes – Try Gogo near the Puri Padi and the Jalan Jalan Hotel.
22. Books; Periplus books near the top of Monkey Forest road – knowledgeable staff; Ubud music in the main street between the markets/palace corner and the supermarket – books and music; Ganesha Book shop.

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EATING.

1. Miros, Ubud. ‘Hospitable owners but average food’. (’02).
2. Ketupat Rest, Ubud. Kadek & Joy Sugiartha – traditional ****
3. Café Bridge, Ubud. On opposite side from Murni’s Warung. Food just as good as at Murni’s.
4. Indus, Jl Raya Sanggigan, Ubud. *** Owned by Casa Luna. Plenty of room. Health foods on wide menu. Views of rice terraces & coconut plantations.
5. Bumbu Bali, Indian, Ubud. Need to book. *****
6. Murni’s Warung or Murney’s Warung, Ubud. Bottom level @ sunset to see meeting of rivers. Bats & fireflies. Food very disappointing, June ’03.
7. Ary’s Warung, in the main street. Highly recommended. French chef (2002). ‘Tasting Menu’ – 6 or 7 courses for Rp145,000. Try the smoked duck (12 hours notice), Rp88,000 for 2. Re-fill your water bottle, with good water, cheaper than a new one and less polluting.
8. CURRY !!! Best in Bali. Gajah Biru Café India, Penestanan Rd Ubud.
9. Red Rice, Sayan village near Ubud between Amandari & Four Seasons.
10. Batun Waru, Ubud. Jl Dewi Sita, off Monkey Forest road. One of the smaller but eternally popular cafes. Never disappoints. Has a Chilli Crab Night every Tuesday but you need to book or be very early.
11. Honeymoon Bakery Café – Honeymoon Bakery Guesthouse – Café Luna Rest. – Cooking school. In the heart of Ubud.
12. Café Wayan, Ubud. **** Chocolate. Very mixed reports. Not as good as Guide Books say. Service slow and sloppy. Don’t try the fish but the Sunday Feasts are good. Lovely garden setting, pretty at night. Gazpacho excellent. Great cakes. Good toilets.
13. Swasdee Thai, Monkey Forest south of Lotus Lane. HOT!!
14. Sai Sai Bar, pasta – pesto, Ubud
15. Casa Luna, Ubud. *** An ‘in’ place but it has its ups and downs in both food & service. Not really expensive but small servings. Great lunches of fresh pastry and banana lassi. Sister outlet to Café Indus. Run by author and ex-Aussie Janet de Neefe and her Balinese husband.
16. Puri Asri is a little way north and east of Ubud in the village of Petulu. It is worth seeking out, particularly for early Sunday lunch. The menu varies daily, depending on what’s good at the morning markets. Accommodation is also available here. Ph (0361) 973 123. Rated amongst the best in Ubud.
17. Bali Pesto. So popular you should try to book ahead. Two courses and a glass of wine for Rp70,000. Value and good. Monkey Forest Road. Good Italian food and a great specials menu on the wall, even better than the printed one, both so tempting and varied. In 2004 we had cold tomato soup that was as good as She makes and so tangy; battered calamari with deep fried basil leaves. These came with beautiful bread rolls. The Spanish pork main was tasty and succulent but a wee bit on the chewy side. Spag Bol was superb. We almost succumbed to deserts but just could not manage them. Prices a little higher than average Bali but so was the food; Rp177,000 with aquas, Bintangs and tax; Aus$18.40 for two. The toilet (singular) looked as if it had had a hard day.
18. The original Café Pesto is in the nearby village of Campuhan just out of Ubud, on the side of the river valley. Still good in 2004 after a big renovation to increase the size. Really good value. Focus is on Indonesian food but an international variety is also available. Otak otak is seafood patties with tomato and chilli sauce on the side so you can add as much or as little as you like. Pork sausages and Lumpia (the Indo version of Spring Rolls) are also worthy of a taste. Is this the ‘bright orange building on Jl Pengosekan above Ubud’ that the Bali Eats News raves about? If so it has a special Saturday bar-b-que.
19. Tutmak, Ubud. Lunch - Choc milkshakes. Tuna steaks! Good coffee. Best value. Small but always seems to be busy – and that tells you something.
20. Ryoshi, once lauded as the greatest was described as ‘so so’ in ’04.
21. Dirty Duck, Ubud. Small serves. Mixed reviews. Perhaps it all depends on the cook for the night. Ask how the name originated. Reports on ’04 suggested that the establishment had finally fallen down over family disputes and remains but a poor shadow of its former self.
22. Lotus Garden (Thai), not good at times. Where Mick Jagger and WhatsHerName got married. On Monkey Forest Road south of Sai Sai Club. Great sunsets over the Lotus ponds.
23. Dian café, Ubud.
24. Naughty Nuri’s, Champuar opposite Neka Museum on road to Sayan.  Burgers!! 400gm steaks cooked any way you like them, with any sauce, potato wedges etc etc. Fresh tuna sashimi on Thursday night – ex-pats night out – great for social intercourse but not if you want a quiet and romantic meal. Beware their martinis. US$$/drink but not the usual half strength Bali offerings. Meeting place for Bali’s Hash House Harriers. “The best food in Bali!” Tromol Pos N0 219, Ubud. Ph/fax (62 361) 977 547
25. Kin Khao Thai Rest. 973 331 Also Tuban 757 808, Legian 750 089 & Kuta 732 153. Reliable but not cheapest.
26. Terrazzo, Jl Suweta. 978 941. New. Mixed food. Attentive service. Trendy café. Dinner for 2 incl wine & coffee; Rp250,000.
27. Cahaya Dewata, overlooks Ayung River, (near Kupu Kupu Barong). Good steaks. Rp60,000 w/- fries & mushrooms. Two courses with drinks AUS$35. Mie Goreng. Perhaps the most spectacular restaurant views in all of Bali, particularly from the highest level.
28. Jazz Café has a new chef (mid ’01) and the food is great again (but not cheap) and the music is cool. Try the pizza.
29. Swasti’s Warung. Upstairs opposite Hotel Champlung Sari.
30. Laka Leke, Nyuh Kuning street. One of the best. Ph (0361) 977 565.
31. Dari Mana (French – and you’d better believe it!) Try the steaks. Looks like a simple warung. French wine at not totally unreasonable prices.
32. Batu Waru (brassiere style – western & Asian.) (Hanniman Road?)
33. Café Bantan Waru. Opposite Palace. Good food and great coffee.
34. Mumbles.
35. Bebek Bengil 2. Facing soccer pitch near Tegal Sari. Superb food and view. Sometimes ordinary service and forgettable food. (Who’s the cook tonight?) House specialty is steamed duck with spices, deep fried. Sambals with tomato, spices, limes, chilli.
36. Kokokan Thai.
37. darimana is a restauunt with very good French style food. Its by the Monkey Forest. Simple décor and low prices despite the quality.
38. Ibah Luxury Villas. Not cheap. Great for special occasions.
39. Gaja Biru Indian. Very pretty. Highly recommended. Small, private pavilions set in a garden. Candles add to the atmosphere. Set price Rp75,000. Meat or vegetarian curries a specialty. Raya Penestanan.
40. Mozaic with a nice garden setting on Jl Raya Sanggigen on the way to Sayan on the Monkey Forest road near the soccer field, with a choice of wines, by the glass if you want, but at very high prices. New ’02. Now open for lunch as well as dinner. Highly skilled serving staff. ***** ‘Tasting menu (multiple dishes) Rp200,000. Excellent toilets. Ph 975 768. Many locals will say that this is the best in Bali, certainly the best in Ubud.
41. Bantan Waru – drinks & cakes in the afternoon.
42. Lamak, on the Monkey Forest road near the soccer field, a wide choice of wines, by the glass at reasonable prices. New ’02. Highly recommended, “Perhaps the best in the whole of Bali”. Managed by Roland Lickert who is also the head chef. The western (American) décor might not be what some seek in Bali but the food is superb. Recommended as number 1 for lunch and also remarkable for dinner. Ph (0361) 974 668.
43. Café Lotus on Jl Raya Ubud facing the remarkable temple, Pura Taman Kemunda Saraswati which was designed by probably Bali’s most famous artist, Nyoman Lempad. Reborn by Pak Hans in 2000 from an ‘also-ran’ café to a highly respected restaurant rated number 2 in Bali by respected reviewers. Ph (0361) 975 660. Tuesday and Saturday nights are the times to see the dance troup from the royal palace perform.
44. Café Arma has good food but nowhere as good value as it was. Rp 200,000 for two with no alcoholic drinks!
45. Nuriani, near the Tegal Sari hotel (a little way out from the centre of Ubud) has simple, cheap and tasty food with a nice view of the sunset.
46. Three Monkeys Café on Monkey Forest road. Mixed cuisines. Has breakfasts too.
47. The Bridge Café. A secret place for great value meals. Don’t tell anyone about it.
48. The Barandi is ‘new’ on the scene is 2003, being the reincarnation of previous café/restaurants. In the village of Pengosekam just outside Ubud. Beware of the hot Moroccan sausages. Great live musicThurs/Fri nights.
49. Roma Roda. Just off the main street above a clothing museum. A small restaurant attached to a house and Homestay.Dinner for 2 less than $5. Balinese and quantity with quality.
50. Zulu. Vegetarian as is (was?) the original Zulu in Seminyak is next to Casa Luna if your driver doesn’t know of it. Vegans will also be satisfied here.
51. New in ’04 is the Space Colonie in a lane off Jl Raya Ubud called Jl Goutama next to the Nomad. Good coffee and sandwiches for lunch or brunch and good fish and chips for those wanting a taste of home. Vegetarian also. Save room for the desserts.
52. Oka Restaurant.Small but delightful. Near the markets Best is Babi Guling (roast suckling pig) at Rp10,000 per serve. That’s about Aus$1.50!

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VISITING.

1.        The King’s Palace. Serene atmosphere and beautiful. Regular dance nights are amongst the best you’ll find. It’s on the crossroad right opposite the markets.

2.       Yeh Pulu rock carvings. Ancient Balinese history. 14^th century.

3.       16^th century Rice Temple. Not magnificent to western eyes but a focus of Balinese beliefs.

4.       Pura Penateron Sasih and the cast bronze Moon of Penjeng drum about 4 Km east of the centre of Ubud. Also the cave and ancient altar in the river bank nearby.

5.       Pura Tegeh Kuripan – 11^th century. Ancient carvings.

6.       Ganesha Book Shop, Ubud. Up the Monkey Forest road turn right at the palace/markets T junction. Less than 1 km from this corner.

7.       Ubud Music near Ganesha also sells books.

8.       The Periplus Bookshop is near the top of Monkey Forest Road. Good assistants.

9.       Klub Kokos, Ubud. Run by Cathi & Trish. http://www.klubkokos.com .

10.    Nyoman Batuan, artist, Pengosekan Art. Comm., Ubud.

11.     Palm Fine Art Galleries, Jl Raya Lungsiakan, Sanggigan. Small gallery with mixed styles. A/C.  Ph 979 081. Friendly personal attention.

12.    Gaja Mas Gallery. Jl Raya Pengosekan.

13.    Celuk Sukawati silver (upstairs in market) Rp85,000/gram (not Rp105,000).

14.    Exhibition Ikat weaving looms on Monkey Forest Road or the mills in Gianyar about 20 min out of Ubud. Cap Cilli is one of biggest welcome visitors but their prices are a bit steep by local standards. Mills also in Klungkung. Wardani Boutique on Monkey Forest Road has good selection and will bargain. Will also cut and hem sarong lengths free.

15.    Silver beads – Wholesale (and others) Nyoman Partha Gold & Silversmith, Jl Selat, Gianyar. Prices by weight or lot. Not easy to find. Ask locally. Clasps, stones etc. Ask for business prices.

16.    Gunung Kawi, nine enormous carvings in the stone river gorge walls. app 30-40 min drive from Ubud. Huge and very old. North eastof Ubub towards Tampaksiring and Kintamani.

17.    ‘The Tenth Tomb’ not far from Gunung Kawi statues across the rice terraces to your right as you go down to Gunung Kawi carvings. Eerie walk. Makes you wonder about the days when it was in use as a retreat for meditation.

18.    There is a Balian (traditional healer) in the village of Sandeng near the Gunung Kawi carvings on the road to Tampaksiring. Another is in Batuan village just north of Sukawati.

19.    Goe Garba.

20.   Telaga Waja. Very beautiful.

21.    Tegallinggah candi excavated in solid rock.

22.   Agus Artists Colony.

23.   Made Joni Art Gallery.

24.   Tagel Karsa Art Gallery.

25.   The Neka Gallery is one of the best true art galleries in Bali. Housed in imaginative buildings it has a wide range of works by Balinese and western artists in all of the variety of styles found on the island. Give it at least half a day. Student artists live and work there also.  http://www.museumneka.com . Refreshments available and clean toilets.
Some travellers claim that the Puri Lukisan is a better museum for traditional Balinese crafts. You’ll need to visit both and make up your own mind. It’s on the main street, Jl Raya, not far from the Lotus Restaurant.

26.   Antonio Blanco’s House. Art Gallery. Rp10,000 entry but well worth it even for non artophobes. The Blanco Renaissance Museum has some amazing displays. Be aware that Blanco’s favourite subject was erotic art.

27.   Museum Rudana in Peliatan near Ubud. In its 8^th year now (’04) is dedicated to the best of Bali’s art.

28.   “The best view in Bali!”  The Ayung River gorge from the Cahaya Dewata (God’s Radiance) from the restaurant Terrace.. Better that from other more expensive hotels such as Amandari, Kupu-kupu Barong or Begawan Giri.

29.   Ceking village rice terraces.

30.   The Indonesian-American Childrens Learning Centre and Library. Donations of reading materials are always welcome. It is a volunteer organisation, currently trying to raise funds to employ a trained librarian.

31.    The Kupu Kupu Foundation, dedicated to the assistance of handicapped children in Bali, has opened a gallery showing the art and handicraft works of these people. Jl Tirta Tawar 22A, Banjar Kutuh Kelod, UBUD. Go and be amazed. Corner of Jl Raya Ubud and Jl Hanoman. E-mail [email protected], web site www.yamp.com/kupukupu.  Mobile 081 236 287 20. Prefix this with 62 if using International mobile.

32.   Visit the villages of Penestanan and Campuhan just north of Ubud. The scenery is fantastic but ht e area is being developed by tourist lodgings and will loose its character if this trend continues.

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DOING.

1. Cooking classes, Indus on Casa Luna, Ubud. Rp100,000. 973 282. Booking required 1 week in advance and not easy to get.
2. Money changing, clothing shop next to Ary’s Warung in main street & photo shops towards supermarket are reliable, but always be alert anywhere! - Two shops on west side of Monkey Forest road seem to have best rates. – Try to get currency in Rp50,000 notes or larger.
3. Take oranges/mandarins to the Monkey Forest instead of buying peanuts.
4. Rice terraces at Tirtagangga. Also Tegalalang (smaller).
5. Ubud Sari massage spa. Massage and Mandi Lulur for US$15, facials 14.
6. Milano Spa near the Monkey Forest. Try the traditional Javanese body scrub with turmeric.
7. Bali Hati Spa.
8. Native healer. Cokorda Rai, Negara near Ubud. Reflexology??
9. Sobek rafting not the best.
10. Silver & money changing, Jl Monkey Forest.
11. Walk the Campuan Ridge along the river valley. Take a brown Bemo (local mini-bus) to Canpuhan, and get off at the bridge. Walk along the drive of the Ibah Hotel and you’ll find the turn-off to the ridge. A couple of Km’s on in the middle of Alang alang grass used for roof thatching you’ll find the River Wos on one side and the River Barat on the other. You’ll find small temples, rice paddies and terracingand the welcome Klub Kokos for a drink. Next is the village of Bedulu where the Yeh Pulu (Holy spring from the stone urn) provides a lot of Bali’s ceremonial water. Rp 4,000 to enter includes sash and sarong. 14^th century carvings down some steps where you can bathe.
12. Black sand beaches at Lebih, a village near Gianyar. Secluded.
13. Funky Monkey Night Club. Good cocktails.
14. Bali Budaya Tours. Bicycle trips from volcano breakfast down through rice paddies and villages, homes to Ubud. Informative guides. Rp360,000.
15. Nur Salon massages and spa. Much better than Bodyworks across the road. Balinese setting. Skilled hands. The works for Rp90,000. Try their White Rose Water (air Sari Mawar Putih). Not cheap but magnificent. First class presents at home.
16. Chakra Healing Centre, Dr Ketut, opposite soccer field.
17. Dsk Nyoman Sucinadi. (Dsk – ‘Day SAH’) Traditional massage practice and teacher. Relaxation & healing. English not good but very intuitive. Get hotel staff to book her to come to your room. Only US$5.00! Gang Soka #4.Br. Taman Klod, Ubud. Ph 081 735 3561.
18. Zen Holiday Spa. US$10 for 1.75 hours of total pampering. Magnificent views over rice paddies.
19. Bali Eco & Educational Cycling tours. Rp35,000 per person. As good as Sobek who charge US$55.
20. Catch the traditional dances at the Palace – yes, it’s a real Palace.
21. Watch the fireflies in the rice fields around the Anamda cottages.

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DRIVERS.

Agung Suta Wibara, (***) Ubud.

Nyoman Swastika works a bit up the lane from the Adhi Dharma Hotel.

Nyoman. Evening phone 980 027.

Gusti Ngurah Saustika. Home 0361 941 536 or in front of Champlung Sari Hotel. Excellent English.

Nyoman (Norm) Suastika, 0361 980 027 (home) or 081 338 701 962 for his mobile. [email protected].

Made Murna will drive you to any place on the island. He can generally be found at the Wayan Tourist Service on Monkey Forest Road in Ubud (Ph (0361) 973 275 to leave a message). His own phone is (0818) 358 518.

Kadek Ana. 081 2391 8685 Rp100,000 / day. Clean vehicle.

Wayan Subawa. Safe and honest driver & guide. Email [email protected].

Putung Arnawa. Good English, patient, honest &punctual. [email protected].

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PEOPLE.

Victor Mason is a world renowned naturalist who lives in relative seclusion in Ubud with his dog Nimrod. If you’re interested in the birds and the bees and butterflies you might be able to connect with one of his tours.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Standard) The villages of Campuan, Pennestan and Nyuhkunning are ofter referred to as the ‘villages of thieves’. Tourists are frequently robbed while they are asleep and it is best not to wake up under such circumstances as stabbings are also not uncommon. Be aware, be alert and be careful, particularly in cheap accommodation that often lacks good security.

1. Bucu View Bungalows – end of Jl Bisma, Ubud.
2. Gusti 2, Ubud Bali Coconut Hotel, Ubud.
3. Honeymoon Bakery and Guesthouses (on Jl Bisma – off the main street), Ubud.
4. Alia Ubud is the new name for the Chedi Hotel, good accommodation, good food.
5. At Permuteran – Taman Selini hotel, Matahari also.
6. Four Seasons Sayan, o/looks river Ayung(?). $$$$
7. Alam Jiwa, 10 min walk south of Monkey Forest. $70/night for 2 including breakfast. Very friendly staff. Country style location by stream and rice fields. Good breakfasts. Staff provide ride into Ubud.  [email protected]
8. Klub Kokos. Kris & Cathy (Aussie ex-pat) Sudharsarna. www.klubkokos.com. 7 spotless, light, airy, 2 bedroom bungalows in the rice fields near Bangkiang Sidem village a short stroll from Ubud. Good R&R but a little out of the way if you are an instantaneous shopper.  Salt chlorinated pool. Income supports the local community. US$64/night for the family bungalow. The walk into Ubud is along the ridge between the two rivers and is spectacular and rural.
9. Ananda Cottages. Great atmosphere. More like a little village in the rice fields than a hotel. Upstairs rooms extra $10 a night. Large bedroom and bathroom. Local fauna just outside your windows. Bamboo blinds and mozzie nets over the beds. Watch the fireflies in the rice fields at night. A hotel guide will conduct you on a rice field walk if you’re interested.
10. Pande Permai, Monkey Forest Road. Rp200,00 for older rooms, Rp500,000 for the new ones. @ min walk to Monkey Forest, 10 min to Ubud markets with shops all the way.
11. Puri Duwur Abing. 4 villas. US$70/night. Incl breakfast. Contents of the bar fridge are cheap! Komang Sugi (Ph 081 2392 8228 or ask the villa staff to contact her for you) comes for massage. Trained in Holland. Fall into bed and sleep when she’s finished. The owners will take you with them when they go shopping and advise you of the best shops for particular items you might want. [email protected].
12. Hotel Tjampuhan Hotel and Spa, nice surroundings but very up and down hill. Free breakfast, shuttle bus available day & night. River spa grotto is a must. A/C. Beautiful grounds. Good staff. Good breakfasts. Flowers on your bed at night. Nice pool with plenty of good pool towels always on hand. Ask for a fridge in the room if there is not one and you might be lucky. Stunning views and friendly but not everything works all the time. Not cheap and no bargaining accepted.
13. Puri Saraswati. Close to the market/palace.
14. Artini 3 Hotel. Nice country views, clean well-kept gardens and pool, honest and friendly staff, comfortable rooms. Rp 150-250,000 depending on season. Massage next door at Zen.
15. Maya Ubud Resort. 5*. Superb architecture. Deluxe room US$128/night with full buffet breakfast (hard bargaining + low occupancy). Better than the more recognised 5*’s. In the edge of the forest close to the river. Infinity pool will take your breath away. Do the village trek while you’re there.
16. Yulia Hotel. No bargaining. Rp200,000.
17. Villa Raya (or Rasa?) Sayang (opposite Yulia Hotel) now renovated (’03). About halfway up Monkey Forest Road. Two large rooms Rp 250,000/night. Excellent pool and gardens. Good food. A/C a bit temperamental but fast ceiling fan keeps things comfortable.
18. Pertiwi Hotel. Large. US$60, A/C and breakfast. Nice hotel and nice staff.
19. Ananda Cottages. Nice but a 20 minute walk up and down hill to get anywhere.
20. Bali Spirit hotel. About 1 Km out of Ubud centre to the north.
21. Ubud Village Hotel. Clean, friendly staff, nice pool. $70/night for second floor, king size bed, o/door bathroom. We found it a little tired in ’04, the pool bar dwas not open, pool towels were hard to get, our bathroom needed a good scrub, the area around the toilet became a knicker-soaking pool if the shower sprayed too far, the curtain cord grips were broken and the potted plants very sick, and the asking price of US$72 had little resemblance to the price of Aus$69 quoted in the Venture Holidays booklet. Even protracted bargaining and much finger pointing at the booklet only brought the price down to US$78. The restaurant and the breakfast were good and it is very centrally located about halfway up (or halfway down) Monkey Forrest Road.
22. Santi Mandala Resort villas south of Ubud towards Sukawati. Still under construction (’04). Great rooms and incredible views over the valley from your veranda. Huge mosquito nets over the bed – so romantic. www.santimandalaresort.com.  Available for $57/night incl breakfast instead of $242 in mid ’04.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

1. Heritage Champlung Sari Hotel. Mid range. Good value. Rooms in the 2 story block at the top are not so good. 975 418. Heritage International Group. Renovated in ’03-04. Very central location.
2. Rona’s Losman, Jl Tebasysa, UBUD. $10?
3. The Tegal Sari is owned by locals and run by locals. , Ubud. *** From Rp125,000 per room + 50,000 for third bed. Rp200,000 with A/C, hot showers, tea/coffee, breakfast included. Pool & pool bar. Deluxe rooms 10 or 12 are highly recommended, not so the some of the standard rooms. ‘A hidden gem.’ Set back off the road, only a dozen or so rooms & bungalows with rice fields front & back. Watch the ducks at work. Pleasant and helpful staff. Pool. ‘Cooking classes coming soon’ – ’04. Just past the bottom of Monkey Forest Road close to restaurants and shops. 10 min walk to central Ubud. Transport provided into the centre of Ubud at request. Supermarket nearby, also shops, restaurants and bars. Try Buddy’s Bar just around the corner. www.tegalsari-ubud.com. Phone (62-361) 973 318. Some problems with in room safes in ’04. Check the operation carefully.
4. Yulia Village Inn, Ubud. Budget, clean, A/C, great location.
5. Bucu View Bungalows – end of Jl Bisma, Ubud.
6. Gusti 2, Ubud
7. Pande Permai at bottom end of Monkey Forest Road. Pool. Basic café. Monkeys in trees by balconies.
8. Avoid Siti Bungalows. Plain dirty and they want top dollar deposit too!
9. Taman Harum. In Mas. Shuttle bus will take you anywhere at any time. Nice outdoor bathrooms and balcony overlooking rice fields.
10. Sanias House Bungalows. Jl. Karna 7 Ubud 80571, Bali. Ph (0361) 977255. Beware the pet monkey!  Rp80,000 per night without bargaining. Nice small pool. Free tea thermos. Hot showers, fan, queen size bed. 200 paces to the main street and the markets.
11. Bali Asli Lodge. 15 min walk from Ubud. Set in serene rice fields as a separate building separated from a typical Balinese home. Lodge has all mod-cons to European standards. Courtyard privacy, double bedroom, bathroom w/ hot water and W/C.  [email protected]. The owners will provide real Balinese food.
12. Graha Ubud, on Monkey Forrest Road.
13. Ketut’s Place. Very cheap. Straight on from the Monkey Forrest/market area.
14. Roma Roda. A small Homestay with restaurant attached above a clothing museum just off the main street.

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# 7 - BEDUGUL DISTRICT SECTION.

For the story and photos of a day trip from Tuban/Kuta through Bedugul and on to Singaraja and Lovina on the north coast, click on this link - . http://www.geocities.com/filo_1au/NorthPhotos.html .

 

SHOPPING.

Bedugul is about at the centre of the market garden area of Bali.  Exotic fruits and spices, tobacco, vegetables and all sorts of other produce are available from roadside stalls and local markets. You’ll often need additional clothes up here in the mountains.

As you go further north through the mountains you will pass through timber forests of marvellous timbers – but it’s not easy to get it home.

The Bedugul Markets have flowers and vegetable produce, of course, but also a surprising variety of sarongs, baskets, jewellery and other stuff which is just a bit different from the southern tourist markets. The market area and the goods themselves seem a bit cleaner than you might expect from those down south. A local market just north of Pacung, on the left of the road, is very cheap for vegetables, fruit and rice including the red and black varieties. There is even a hardware shop there and a manufacturing jeweller.

It is difficult to change traveller’s cheques in Bedugul, impossible in Pacung a bit south of Bedugul. Make sure that you have cash in your home currency or in rupiah and be aware that the exchange rate might be up to 5% lower than in the south.

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EATING.

1. The Pacung Indah (run by Aussie ex-pats David and Moira) provides good food for tourists and a separate local menu for local drivers. It is on the right side of the road when going north towards Lovina/Singaraja. The views are spectacular from either restaurant and also from the accommodation adjoining the dining room of the Indah, particularly the toilet! The main accommodation is walled in and regrettably does not allow you to enjoy the spectacular view down the valley to the south. Be aware of the similarly named place on the opposite side of the road where the accommodation is much better but the food is pricey and terrible.
2. Pacung Mountain Resort is on the left as you go up the mountain from the south.Their accommodation is good and in 2004 our room was the cleanest we had in all our tour. The small pool is clean and refreshing. There is an inclined lift, the ‘inclinator’, which will take you down into the valley from the old Dutch part of the hotel. It is electrically driven today but I’m told that the original was an open platform connected by a rope to water buffalo that tramped across the rice fields in the valley, lifting or lowering the anxious Dutch ladies seated primly on chairs from the dining room and clutching their parasols in one hand and excited children in the other. The Resort restaurant where you can get thankfully small serves of terrible tasting but high priced food is right opposite that of the Pacung Indah on the right of the road which is a better place to eat.
3. Perma Teahouse, Candikuning. Near Ulu Danu temple.
4. Kamandalu Restaurant at the Handara Golf Club.
5. Good fruit markets, vegetables, hot corn long the road and at the local markets. Remember if you can peel it you can safely eat it.
6. Strawberry Stop for sweet snacks. Rp 25,000 / kilo. Red, huge, juicy and tasty. Eat them like peanuts and want for more.
7. Ashanti Hotel. Before the lake at Bedugul (coming from Kuta). Cheap but good and remarkable views.
8. Ngiring Ngreweding Restaurant up in the mountains above Bedugul. Go north from Bedugul and turn left around the top of the twin lakes Buyen andTamblingan towards the beautiful and peaceful Munduk Falls. On an impossibly tight hairpin bend to the right you will see a small car park on the left and the restaurant on the opposite side of the road. They also make their own coffee here, from beans through roasting and crushing by hand to blending of the Robusta and Aribca varieties.

VISITING.

1. Great views of forests, rice fields and market gardens at many points along the road.
2. Good fruit, vegetable and flower market at Bedugul and just north of Pacung. Also spices in bulk and in sealed packs which impressed the quarantine folk.
3. Lake Bratan - Ulun Danu Temple – What a pity there is a camp with LOUD speaker on the bank and speedboats.
4. Lake Tamblingan and Lake Buyan, the twin lakes north west of the more popular Lake Bratan. Surrounded by 1000-year-old jungle. Trekking and fishing. On the up-mountain side there are little tables and seats on the side of the road with great views if the clouds don’t descend around your head. There is a small emerald coloured pond (can hardly call it a lake) right between the two lakes. Although the original lake was divided by a lava flow many years ago the lava is porous and water can seep from one lake to the other.
5. Botanical Gardens. Extensive and varied. It is a good hike over some of the steep terrain. Some of the signage could be better.
6. East of Munduk, views to Lakes Buyan & Tamblingan. Munduk waterfalls west of Lake Tamblingan – better than Git Git. Take your swimmers to chill out in the spray. Unspoiled and peacefull. Good toilets at the bottom.
7. Git Git Falls. Magical, mystical mists. Take your bathers to chill off in the pool under the falls.  It can be a 2 hour trip from Kuta – but you will make it longer because you will want to stop and see all the different things along the way. It’s a long and steep climb back from the falls (are there really 205 steps and landings?) with lots of sellers to offer you rest - and the chance to buy their wares in return!  2 Km further up the hill and about ½ Km off the road are better multi-tier falls. Swim at either falls.
8. Sunsets! Kalaspa Health Resort – views.
9. Little boxes made for cloves. Kintimani.
10. Kintamani volcano. The hawkers here can be horrific. Eat at the Grand Puckat Sari – best views – sit on the ledge cut out of the crates side – Buffet (Rp60,000) or menu. Menu is probably safer if you’ve seen the action at the buffet.
11. Pupuan, on alternative road back to south.  Great rice terraces.
12. The war museum of Margarana in the village of Marga is off to the left as you go up to Bedugul, about 10-15 Km west of Denpasar. The mainmonument is to I Gusti Ngurah Rai, famed Balinese commander. The monuments to the individual soldiers killed in battle are a spectacular sight, as is the memorial wall where they are all named. Neatly tended museum, surrounded by moats and fish ponds, which is interesting but mouldering. Such a pity that irreplaceable history is set up but then left to rot and fade. Ask the attendant who collects your donation to open it up for you. Don’t be fooled by the racks of rifles; they are all paper mache replicas.

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DOING.

The mountain scenery with its lush green forests in deep and steep valleys is spectacular.  There are water activities available on Lake Bratan and world-class golf courses.
Visit the reptile park between Lake Bratan and Git Git falls. The unintentionally funny magician makes the stop worth while.

From Bedugul, if you are travelling on north to the coast, the common route is directly north (well, almost) to Singaraja and then west to Lovina. An alternative route, different and more interesting in some ways if you’ve seen the twisting roads and the forests through the mountains often enough, is to turn left about 8-10 Km north of Bedugul and go north west from Wanagiri, past the now divided lakes of Buyan and Tamblingan (separated many years ago by a lava flow) and on to the coastal town of Seririt. From Seririt you can turn left again along the spectacular coastal road bordered by the sea on one side and the mountain cliffs on the other, through the emerging tourist village of Permuteran (see the Western Bali District section below if this area interests you) and on to the fabulous snorkelling/diving spot of Meniangan Island on the far north west coast close to the Java ferry departure point at Gillimanuk, or turn right and go east to Lovina. This route is only a little further than the commonly used route directly north from Bedugul but you will pass through what might be described as one of the garden districts of Bali, seeing exotic fruits such as the revered or reviled Durian, coffee, corn, coconuts and vineyards growing wine grapes for local wine production.

 

DRIVERS.

1. I Made Dana, Ubud, 978 268, 973 245, or 081 238 045 04
2. Dewa Morvin, 081 2394 1022. Ubud.

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PEOPLE.

VERY aggressive Street sellers in Kintamani!

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ACCOMMODATION. (Standard) – If you are planning to stay overnight in this district be aware that it can get uncharacteristically cold for a tropical paradise.

1. Sacred Mountain Retreat, Lake Bratan.
2. Pacung Indah, in the village of Pacung near Bedugul is highly recommended as a quality Hotel. Run by ex-pat Aussies no detail seems to be too small to overlook. It is a small boutique place with friendly staff, enthusiastic owners/managers on site, breathtaking views and top-class rooms and food.  Breakfast (which is included in the room rate) has to be seen to be believed. Great for romantic get-aways or just for relaxing. Probably not the best place for active and curious young children. Look for the roadside sign with the kangaroo.
3. Pacung Resort Ph 21 038. 9km south of Bedugul. Luxurious, great views.
4. Bedugul Hotel Ph 226 593. Bungalows look down on Lake. Reasonable rates.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

Ashram Hotel Ph 22 439. Rooms or bungalows. Bathrooms shared.

Bukiy Mungsu Indah, Baturiti. Neat rooms with fireplaces, some look onto Botanic Gardens.

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# 8 - LOVINA/SINGARAJA DISTRICT SECTION.

Lovina, more correctly Lovina Beach, is a strip development along the coast road from Singaraja through Seririt and on to Gilimanuk.

There are no direct public transport services from the south but a taxi should cost only about Rp250,000 for the trip. Another option is tp get a taxi from the airport to the Ubung bus terminal in Denpasar and take the Perama (timetables at www.peramatour.co) bus to Lovina for Rp60,000. Bemo’s also run the route but you would need to change a couple of times. It’s a cheap and interesting way to travel if you’re not in a hurry and like meeting locals on sections of the trip.

Beginning about 5 Km from Singaraja in the district of Anturan Lovina merges into the districts of Kalibukbuk and then Temikus, over about 6 Km. Much of the area nearest Singaraja is separated from the Bali Sea by up to a kilometer of rice fields and plantations but the western end goes almost along the beach. Most of the hotels are on the sea side of the main road as you might expect, either with sea frontages or on the few short side streets that lead to the beach.

What you might not expect is the quality of some of the restaurants. The fusion of foods from all over the world is created by the people who seem to have come from all over the world, and the quality is nothing short of remarkable.

The seaside at Lovina has black sand, (well dark grey really) and the sea is very calm and shallow. Ideal for swimming and snorkelling as its warm, and for children as it’s shallow.

Lovina is not a rocking nightclub place but more alive than Candi Dasa and Amed put together and there is a Planet Lovina and other riotous places around the centre of the action in Jl Pantai Binaria.

Singaraja is not a tourist town but is an interesting place to wander in if you’re curious about the Dutch heritage of the area, the old sea port, and the museum.

A nice day trip is to Gilimanuk along the coast to the west. Gilimanuk is the ferry port to Java and is very busy. It’s a fascinating place to sit and watch the rows of ferries going and coming. Along the way you will pass three hotels. If you’re a bit up-market, stop and have a look over the Hotel Matahari. If you fly in the Ngurah Rai airport in the south and don’t fancy a long car trip up there they’ll come down and pick you up in their helicopter or float plane for a small consideration. Be warned though that this is probably not a place where you should anticipate bargaining over their rates – though you might feel like it when you see them!

For the story and photos of a day trip from Tuban/Kuta through Bedugul and on to Singaraja and Lovina on the north coast, click on this link - . http://www.geocities.com/filo_1au/NorthPhotos.html .

Have a look also at http://www.wonderfulbali.com/.

Singaraja was the capital of Bali during the time of Dutch colonial rule. It was then known as Buleleng and is still called this by older Balinese at times. Dutch style is apparent in the architecture and the layout of the town. The central square on the sea front - Binaria Square – has a well known dolphin statue.

Three roads lead to Lovina. The central route almost directly north through Bedugul (visit the market for fruit, particularly strawberries, vegetables, flowers and spices) and Lake Bratan is the shortest. A good road but usually very busy because of this.
At the top of the mountains you can turn left (west) past the divided lakes Buyan and Tamblingan, then right to Selat.  An interesting little detour can be made through Munduk if you don’t take the earliest right turn. Just before the Munduk Falls you can visit a working coffee plantation and sample some Ngiring Ngewedang, amongst the best coffee in Bali at a small eatery with a magnificent view from 1500 meters above sea level. The road has some very steep descents that come with magnificent views of Lovina, the Bali Sea and even Java. There is less traffic on this road because it is not so good but there are excellent photographic opportunities. This route takes about 2.5 hours, depending on how after you stop. A little further on from the Selat turn-off you will find another through Tabanan and via Pupuan which is about 20 minutes longer if you don’t stop to admire some of the best rice terracing in Bali.
The third route is towards the west through Tabanan then turn off to Puputan. Recommended for photographers.

A longer route (app 3.5 hours total driving time) even further to the east is via Ubud and Kintamani, an active volcano. There are many tour buses on this road and some savagely persistent hawkers. Do not stop at Penolokan, go on further where they are fewer and the views are as good.

For a full description of the alternative routes see http://www.balitravelforum.com/msg/79423.html , updated at www.balitravelforum.com/msg/24834.html, written by Richard H, a local who offers accommodation at the Rambutan Beach Cottages. http://www.rambutan.org/

From Kuta a driver will take you to Lovina/Singaraja and come back to pick you up again for Rp 600, to 800,000 !!  If you only get a one way ride to Lovina from Kuta it is about Rp250,000. There is plenty of transport in Lovina and a driver will take you back to Kuta for only about Rp120 to 150,000. If you want to keep your driver from the south they will often sleep in their vans for a night or two. Many restaurants along the way will feed your driver as a reward for bringing you there.

The trip by road to Amed along the north east coast from Lovina is about 2.5 hours – 3 to Candi Dasa. Cost will be about Rp100,000. Amed hotel drivers will come and pick you up in Lovina. It is an interesting drive through small villages with great views over the sea and towards the inland mountains, particularly from Culik to Candi Dasa. The road is narrow but good. Taking the local Perama bus is and experience but so cheap.

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SHOPPING.

1.        Dewata Supermarket, a little west of Singaraja. Food and cheap clothing.

2.       Hardy’s in Singaraja. Like a cheaper version of Matahari in Kuta.

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EATING.

Many restaurants in Jl Laviana and the street out of Lovina Central, the square with the dolphin statue.

1. Sea Breeze Restaurant, - Lovina. *** Good but getting a bit touristy? Really bad service 2001? By the dolphin statue.
2. Warung Bumbu in front of Puri Bagus Hotel.
3. Katakua (local lingo for Cockatoo, the Aussie parrot type bird, of which there are indeed two of the rowdy beasts in a cage at the front), Lovina. Near dolphin statue on Jl Pantai Binaria. Nice atmosphere, good food, very good prices. Ph(0362) 41144 41344.
4. Dami, Lovina - *****.
5. Café Spice, Lovina
6. Bali Bintang Restaurant, Lovina
7. Karina Restaurant not good.
8. Khi Khi Seafood, ordinary place - nice food.
9. Malibu, centre of Lovina. Popular – reasonable. Sometimes rough!
10. Barcelona Rest. Lovina. Good service, food, prices and surroundings. Report of drunken staff – bad service 2001?
11. Warung Bambu Pemaron, Lovina, between Singaraja and Kalibukbuk. Middle of rice fields on road to Hotel Puri Bagus. Superb food with exquisite presentation. App A$6-10. Dance Wed & Sun. Free transport. Ring 27080+31455.
12. Ayditya Beach Bungalows and restaurant, Lovina.
13. LiAn Seafood. App 200 m from beach. Staff will pick you up & take you back to your hotel.
14. Warung Bias, Jl Banyualit. Indo and western. Home made German bread.
15. Mailaku. Excellent Peri Peri prawns, garlic bread and rijstaffel (‘rice table’).
16. Café Lumbung. On right hand side of road to dolphin statue.
17. Kopi Bali.
18. Rambutan Beach Cottages. Buffet Rp 25,000 with Legong Dance on Sunday & Wednesday. Also good accommodation.
19. Avoid Padi Bali.
20. Kartika Restaurant of Santosa, near Singaraja Night Market.
21. Biyu Restaurant on main road through Lovina
22. Spice Café, Lovina.
23. Lucky Warung, on the beach, “- fantastic fish dinner’.
24. Bali Apik.
25. Bali View Café. Small on the edge of a small cliff. Great Indo food.
26. Lovina Central, try the 3 level restaurant on the left of the only street.
27. Lumbang Café near the dolphin statue, Lovina. Good breakfasts but the coffee is terrible especially since this is Bali, the home of great coffee.
28. Jasmine Kitchen, Binaria Lane, Kalibukbuk, Singaraja. Ph 0362 41565. [email protected]. Prawns in basil and chilli sauce with rice and Bintang. What a meal! Rp40,000. Try the lemongrass and coconut ice-cream. Very friendly and helpful proprietors (English and Balinese.)
29. After our ’04 visit we can recommend the Octopus’s Garden on the left of the main road to Gilimanuk, close to the edge of town. Run by Irfan. Ph0362 42031, e-mail [email protected]. Really goodfood at unbelievably cheap prices. He’s so confident of his kitchen staff that there is a big glass window on the street side of the kitchen. You might further gather the style of the place if I tell you there is Enya’s music in his background tapes and he has two Rudolf Bonnet lithographs (amongst others) on the restaurant walls. I wish their feature lighting was better so that they could be more appreciated. The Seafood Soup comes brimming in a big bowl for Rp 10,000. Octopus Carpaccio with vinaigrette overflowed from its bed of cold, crisp Iceberg lettuce; Rp20,000. As a main course how about stir fried young corn with mushrooms and vegetables. Rp 10,000 with steamed rice? Or you could have lightly grilled Mahi Mahi fillet in green cream sauce with vegetables and fries for Rp30,000. The fish fillet was not from a dwarf of the species and even the fries were properly double cooked for crispness. Iced coffee, and it was Bali Coffee, was Rp10,000 and vanilla icecream with rum-soaked raisins on top was Rp8,000.
30. If you want something even better than the Octopus’s Garden try Kubu Lalang, on the beach close to the Singaraja side of Lovina. You’ll need transport to get there as the road (dirt track) runs through the rice fields between the main road and the beach. There is a walk of 100 paces or so along the path from the car park to the restaurant and a torch will help the lighting which is being shaded by the planting along the edges. The food is worth all this trouble – well, its not so much trouble really. Ph(0062) 362 42207. E-mail [email protected]. Web-site www.bali-portal.com/kubulalang/ .Not as cheap as the Octopus but you need to read the menu to appreciate what you’re getting. Just about everything is made on the premises and the staff are justifiably proud of their work. We had a Minty Misty non-alcoho;ic drink and a Sommertime Cocktail pre-dinner. The Minty Mystic was a mixture of fresh mint (grown in their own herb garden) with fresh lime juice, honey and soda. It was soo refreshing and just a little sweet. Rp8,000. The cocktail was a blend of brown rum and fresh pineapple juice stirred with coconut cream and Grenadine. As smooth as silk with a little bite at the end. Rp24,000.Entrees were Burbur Ikan Sardin, a blend of freshly caught sardines, butter, lime and parsley served with French style bread from the kitchen ovens. Rp15,000. It is a pate style spread in a decent size pot, very fishy and very tasty. Tomat Kering is sundried tomatoes (guess who dries them) with basil, olive oil, and masinated green bell peppers with cream cheese sauce and French style bread. The tomatoe slices were in stacks of two with a basil leaf and a very thin slice of garlic between them. The pickled peppers were light and fresh, almost crisp. The sauce came in three balls about the size of a little icecream or melon scoop. One was plain white, another had been rolled in the finest chopped spinach I have ever seen and the third whad been rolled in mild chilli dust. Spread on the bread with a slice of tomato and pepper on top was a taste delight. Rp 17,000. The Dadar Makenan Laut was lime tumeric crepes filled with seafood and coconut with a white wine and curry sauce served with a salad of Chinese Cabbage and pineapple. There were two large crepes that filled a dinner plate so the salad came in a soup-bowl sise dish as a side serve. If you’ve had this before in some international café I bet it cost more than Rp 30,000. If you like food then go there! Our only complaint was that we just could not tackle the deserts which were of the same tantalising calibre.

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DRINKING.

1. Sea Breeze Bar, right on the beach to the left of the Binaria Square which has the dolphin statue. Play chess with the owner. Some bad reports on food and service in 2001!?
2. Sigi’s Bar, on Zigi’s Bar, Jl Binaria in central Lovina. Popular with local youths and tourists. Good cafes nearby.
3. Planet Lovina. Loud! On the main road a little west of Jl Binaria. New late 2001. Good live reggae music. Say ‘Hi’ to Mama Gede from Seririt.
4. Malibu on the main road just west of Jl Binaria. Live music Saturdays. Stage, dance floor U/ground disco internet. Usually crowded on Saturdays and some clients, local and tourists, don’t behave well.

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VISITING.

1. Gitgit Falls, on road towards Lovina. CHEAP shops. Long climb back.
2. Munduk Falls on the road to Lovina that runs to the west from Bedugul. You can also visit a coffee plantation and production works near the falls.
3. Banjar village, hot springs, bathing.
4. Sing Sing waterfall on way to hot springs.
5. Yeh Sanih fresh water springs. 15 km east of Singaraja. Perfect for a cooling swim. Very clear. Restaurant, gardens, sea view.
6. Beji Temple and the temple at Jacaraga.
7. Winery and restaurant in the hills above Lovina, Ponjok Indah, in Kayaputih. German owners. Great food.

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DOING.

1. Ulan Danu Temple & markets, Munduk.
2. GitGit, Lake Bratan, Kintamani, Hot Springs, Munduk Waterfall (including the spectacular drive to get there)!!!, Lovina.
3. Plaga Village, central Bali, waterfalls & hot springs.
4. Dolphin Trips. Rp 25,000 (2 hrs) per person, 4 to each boat. Great sunrises from the boats.
5. Snorkelling, Rp20,000 (2 hrs). Menjangan Island is a bit further on the westernmost tip of Bali, in the National Park.  Just as far to the east is the Liberty shipwreck at Tulumben.
6. Banjar hot springs. Don’t look too closely at the colour before you carefully enter. It’s slippery. Take shampoo for your hair afterwards.
7. Air Sanih cold springs.
8. Tambligan 1000-year-old forest. Serious hiking! / Lakes Buyan & Tambligan. Rice terraces.
9. Sing Sing waterfalls.
10. Les waterfall. Between Lovina and Amed. Les Village waterfall – ‘best place in Bali’. ‘Bali’s highest waterfall". (?). Longish trek – 1.5 km. 1:10 incline, a bit at the end 1:5. Les is 28 km south east from Lovina. Contact [email protected] for pictures and tours.
11. Lemukih - multiple waterfalls. 25-30 km south east of Lovina. App 25 km south east from Lovina. If you want a local guide try Bluey, [email protected].
12. Lots of Internet cafes. Outpost Internet Café, fast, Rp400/min. Connections slow after 11 am.
13. Watch sunset from Jl Damai, near Pojok Indah rest.
14. Air Sanih, 17K from Singaraja. Cold water springs. Bathing. Restaurant.
15. Mountain Biking. Bali Adventure Tours.
16. Agung’s Massage. Jl Damai.
17. Nightlife. Pocco Bar.
18. Planet Lovina near the corner of Jl Binaria in Kalibukbuk.
19. Kutilang Trekking Tours. [email protected]. Office at Jl Laviana, Banyualit, Lovina.  Through the jungles of Lemukih in the mountains south of Lovina.  Isolation on new trails.
20. Seririt village, west of Lovina before turning inland towards Munduk. Great toyshop! The drive here into the mountains is very picturesque and it can get very cold. A nice picnic area is at the top of the climb, with views of the divided lakes Tamblingan and Buyan.
21. Agungs Massage Salon for crème bath, massage and head treatment.

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DRIVERS.

1. Ketut Juari, 362-42052. Mob. 08 1239 53118. [email protected] . Mainly Lovina but will pick up anywhere and tour anywhere. Costs more than most.
2. Bali Bluey [email protected]
3. Made Menak recommended by ‘local’ Aussies David & Moira – www.oneinfinity.com.au/bali/mademenak.htm .

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PEOPLE.

1. Mr Ketut, [email protected] . Sightseeing.
2. Gloria’s Crisis Care Centre. Treats local people who cannot access other services. Relies on donations to exist. At the dolphin statue turn right onto the road to Gillimanuk. After app ¾ Km there is a signpost with a red cross on it. – turn left here. If you pass an abandoned yellow Holden car you have gone too far. About ¾ Km further on, past the school on the left, you will come to the clinic and be welcomed.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Standard)

1. Nirwana Beach Cottages Lovina.  New ones best of a deteriorating lot. Rats in adjacent open canal. Breakfast worst ever. Not recommended.
2. Banyualit Hotel, Jl Laviana. A/C. hot water, pool. Not luxury but reasonable rates, good restaurant.
3. Puri Bagus bungalows, Lovina. (Frequently recommended.)  US$110/night double occupancy.  For a local report try www.oneinfinity.com.au/bali/mademenak.htm .
4. Bamboo Huts on the beach, Rp75,000 per night.
5. Rambutan Beach Hotel & Cottages, Lovina. (0362) 41388. Clean and well run. Family owned. http://www.rambutan.org/. Two pools. Huge and ornate rooms, particularly the bathrooms. Bigger than normal bar fridges. Near good restaurants, internet shop and money changer but expensive food and drink vendors who can’t count and have no shame. Go down to the main road, turn left, cross over and find the local mini mart. 5 minute walk to the beach. Transport shop just opposite gate (ask for Nyoman, he’s a nice funny guy to travel with). Regularly recommended. Do your own laundry or take it to the street laundry and insist that it’s dry and really ironed before you pay for it. Cottages are run by Richard, citizen of the world and one-time Aussie but now nailed down by Bali wife and three dogs, two rabbits, a Guinea Pig, a white dove and several other birds as well as the delightful children. He might still be trying to wean the staff off of the two-lollies-per-day regime they became used to, and the dogs off cashew nuts.
6. Damai Lovina, US$150++
7. Kalibukbuk, Rp60,000 (includes tax+b/fast) A/C & hot water. Jl Lovina (?) –on beach. Mixed reports, mainly doubtful.
8. Pondok Sari Cottages.
9. Melka Hotel, Jl Lovina. Medium price range. Rp210,000 bargain down to Rp150,000/night
10. Nirina Sea Cottages not recommended.
11. Nirwana II good. 2 min walk to beach A/C Pool.
12. Ansoka Hotel. Good and convenient. Next to Nirwana but much better.
13. Santai Hotel. Good place, good people, good food.
14. Bali Taman Hotel, not to be confused with the Bali Taman Resort. Beachfront, nice pool, 2 suites + bungalows. Good restaurant, not expensive. Watch safety of valuables/cash.
15. Sol Lovina. Biggest pool in Lovina? Part of Sol Melia chain. Deluxe rooms nice but not as ‘traditional’ as some. Villas nice, some with plunge pools. Beachfront rest. Negotiate up to 60% off rack rate. A bit up-market in general.
16. Juni Artha Hotel. Near Sol Lovina. 5 bungalows with a/c. Under Rp 100,000/night. Entrance at Jl Laviana.
17. Further west from Lovina is Taman Selini, Ph 93 449. Bungalows in gardens with a mountain vista.  Pool. Beach restaurant serving Greek and local cuisine. Snorkel, dive, horse ride. Near Menjanan National Park.
18. Zen Body Holiday is 15 km west of Lovina. Only 7 rooms and one of the best infinity pools!
19. East of Singaraja, towards Candi Dasa, about 40 minutes on a country road, is The Agung Bali Nirwana Resort. An idyllic and serene getaway. Only three 3-bedroom villas facing the ocean. Each has a raised eating bale just outside and the infinity pool is amazing.
20. Villa Agung Beach Inn in Lovina. Chatty manager is Nyoman. Villas are on the beach and are fan cooled which is adequate in this area. Rp100,000 with b/fast. Good food and views from the restaurant. Good pool.
21. Bali Taman Resort (not the B T Hotel). Nice place but very out-of-the-way location, 5 km from Lovina. Nothing much nearby.

ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

Always inspect before you finalise a deal.

1. Puri Bagus bungalows, Lovina. They have a room for drivers from the south to overnight in. US$50/night for a room and breakfast.
2. Angsoka Hotel, Lovina
3. Angsoka Hotel, Lovina. Good pool and staff. Variety of rooms from Rp70, to 200,000. Close to the beach.
4. Mas Lovina Cottages and Sea Breeze Restaurant. 2 storey cottages with ocean views. Reluctant to bargain.
5. Nirwana Seaside Cottages, Bali-style bamboo hut, hot water, fan, Rp75,000/nite. A/C room Rp175,000.  Rules like a boarding school. On the beach but no direct access.
6. Angsoka Hotel, Lovina. A$8-35 per night. Discounts for longer stays.
7. Aneka Lovina. Room w/ shower US$35, Bungalow w/ bath US$45 - w/ A/C. Some travellers have been disappointed here. Perhaps check on site before agreeing to stay, to see if it meets your expectations. Staff ignore women!? Expensive food.
8. Melka Hotel. Jl Laviana. GREAT! Medium price – pool.
9. Pulestis Hotel. App Rp60,000/night. Pool. Central Ph 0362 41 035.
10. Bayu Kartika Hotel. Quiet, comfortable, on the waterfront. Rp180,000 A/C and breakfast. Very nice place.
11. Mas Bungalows in Banyualit from Rp25,000. Double if you want hot water.
12. Sri Home stay in Lovina. Rp25,000 and up.
13. Villa Agung Beach Inn. Cottage for 6 – Rp200,000, upstairs lounge o/looks beach.  Room Rp 150,000. Incl B/fast. Very pretty gardens. On the water. Sandy & Gus Beauman. Good food at good prices to cap it off.
14. Hotel Rini, Lovina Beach. Spotlessly clean. Close to beach. Cheap at A$25/night for a nice room. For 2 beds, cold water - Rp60,000 with breakfast. There are also 2 level bungalows with upstairs veranda. Good pool. Fantastic food. 2 minutes to the beach.
15. Bayu Kartika. Close to the beach, quiet and friendly. Rp150,000 in front room incl mini bar, breakfast.

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# 9 - CANDI DASA DISTRICT SECTION. Also includes Amed, Tirtagangga and Padang Bai.

Pronounced ‘Chahn-dee Dah-sa’.

A more relaxed part of the Bali tourist trail, some would say the most relaxed and youngsters looking for nightlife would call it deadly boring..

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…To the north and east . . . . . . " there is only one really practical route from Sakah Junction (on the main Denpasar to Ubud road) to Amed. The road goes through Klungkung and Candi Dasa, by-passes Amlapura, and continues through Tirtagangga to Culik where you take the narrow road to the right (ojek motorcycle taxi drivers wait at this junction to provide transport). There are also morning bemos. The narrow road goes to Amed, Jemeluk, Bunutan and Selang Beach (the last accommodation is here, close to the beach) and continues to complete a circle back at Ujung and Amlapura. The coast road between Lumpur and Selang Beach is very rough but manageable if you want to try it and have the time. It is 42 Km long." "The Man" – 17.2.01; BaliTravelForum.

‘The coast road to Amed from Amlapura requires a 4WD, 3 hours and nerves of steel. About 3-4 hours from the south, depending on traffic. The scenery is spectacular!’

In 2003 this coastal road was upgraded and sealed. It is now not the hair-raising drive it used to be but the unbelievable scenery remains. “One of the world’s great and spectacular coastal roads.” Stop at the Ujung Water Palace which is being renovated (2003). The palace was built in 1921 by the last ruler of the regency of Karangasem. There are other safe stops along the road where view can be wondered at. Amlapura was originally known as Karangasem until the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963. The change of name was the result of a supesticious belief that the new name would hide the town from the spiritual forces that might cause future eruptions.

Transport from Legian to Amed from Rp200-250,000 (about 3 hours from Seminyak – 3.5-4 hours from Kuta depending on traffic conditions) can be by Amed drivers who will come and collect you. They know the area best. It will take longer of course if you want to linger at places such as Candi Dasa for a snack or the Water Palace at Tirtagangga or if you take the side road to beautiful Sideman. If you want to do it native style, try the Perama Shuttle Bus from Kuta Beach to the T intersection at Culik village about 20 mins north of Tirtagangga. Ask the driver to drop you here. At Culik charter a vehicle to finish the trip to any Amed area accommodations. Total cost should be less than Rp75,000. Perama timetables at www.peramatour.co or www.hallofreun.de/perama-e.html.

Amed is a village for walking as it is spread along the indented coast. It is quite hilly. Little transport is available, which some travellers find a relief from Kuta.

If you’re going take some eye drops as many of the locals have eye problems due to the sharp sand and dust which seems to have a volcanic ash component.

Padang Bai is on a bay before Candi Dasa. It is a very small but beautiful fishing/tourist village at one end of the bay and a large slightly grotty ferry terminal at the other. The village end is quiet and picturesque. Two bays before Candi Dasa is the beach ferry port of Kusamba with a fishing village on one side of the entrance road and very old but still functioning beach salt works on the other side. It is a fascinating place and well worth a visit. From Padang Bai there are walks over the hills in both directions along the coast. In one direction you come to the beach at the Blue Lagoon where the snorkelling can be spectacular. In the other end you will come to White Beach, pristine and nice for swimming or for surfing.

Check http://www.bluemoonvilla.com/ and http://www.santaibali.com/ . For general Amed info try http://www.amed.vze.com/.

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SHOPPING.

1. Watergarden Boutique.
2. Asri Shop. General merchandise, supermarket etc. Fixed prices.

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EATING.

CANDI DASA -

1. Kubu Bali. Not cheap.
2. Beer Garden.
3. Restaurant on water between Hotel Rama and town.
4. Lotus/Lotus Garden not recommended (2000) but better reports in 2002. Good views and entertainment frequently.
5. Serai Rest. A bit pricey compared to others.
6. Candi Agung 2, last on left going east from town. Either good or really bad.
7. Warung Astawa Rest. Opp. Candi Agung 2.
8. Tirta Ayu, at Tirtagangga – pumpkin soup!
9. Rajas.
10. The Iguana.
11. Kubu Bali restaurant attached to the hotel, as is common in Candi Dasa.
12. Puri Pan Dan. Open pavilion overlooking the water towards Nusa Penida.
13. Queens is cheap, good and very local.
14. The Kedai is not the cheapest but it is amongst the best. Try their mustard & honey chicken. Same owner as Ary’s Warung in Ubud. Sampling menus of 4 or 5 courses; Rp75 and 90,000.
15. Agung Warung.
16. Pondok Wisata Kerti Beach Inn, Padang Bai just before Candi Dasa.
17. Wawa Wewe I and Tiying Peteng in the Lipah Beach strip are good. They have children’s dishes and serves.
18. The Temple Café is unpretentious but great for breakfasts or try the Aussie style onion rissoles for lunch or curried Shepherds Pie. Owner Shirley is an Aussie ex-pat with a good feel for Balinese food.
19. Kafe TJ is part of the Water Garden accommodation property and has perhaps some of the best food in Candi Dasa.
20. Alia Mangis is just outside of the Candi Dasa township but is worth the visit. Stewart is the Aussie chef in ’04.

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AMED – Most eateries in Amed are part of the various hotels. The choice is not great. Transport can be a problem in Amed. Do not expect to hail a Blue Bird Taxi on the street. There is only one road in Amed. It follows the fairly steep coast along the edge of the Mountains Lempuyang and Gunung along the northern coast. The road is very much an up and down affair, not for those who are not used to hilly walking.

1. WaWa WeWe Hotel and Restaurant. - Amed. No A/C but cool breezes straight off the water. Getting a bit tired? (2001). The restaurant is being rebuilt in 2002 but there is no news that suggests the food will improve.. Live music but limited repertoire.
2. Good Karma is similar to Wa Wa We We, as is Eka Purama.
3. Komeng John Café – Amed.
4. Restaurant Gede – Amed. Try the woodcutter omelette with tomato sauce straight from their own kitchen.
5. Santai Restaurant – Amed.
6. Pondok Vienna Beach Hotel. Entrees Rp15-30,000. Wine Rp80,000/bottle. Accom. US$45 night. Breakfasts particularly good.
7. Hidden Paradise. (at Lipah) In Hidden Paradise hotel. Mosquitoes can be a problem in the rooms. Good pool. Attractive restaurant setting in gardens. Good food at budget prices.
8. Coral View. Nice. Accom. US$45 night. One of the few reasonable beaches in the district.
9. Café Garam (‘salt’ – display of local salt history on walls.), Hotel Uyah. –International cuisine. New 2001. Reports of excellent quality. Live music Saturday nights. Bungalows still under construction (June ‘01).
10. Kusumajaya Inn. Rp180,000 fan cooled bungalow on the beach. Walking distance to Jemeluk Beach that has good fish snorkelling but mainly dead coral. Manager not too friendly. Meagre b/fast.
11. Prema Liong. Beautiful bungalows (2 levels), o/door bathroom, Rp150,000. Good food and staff.
12. Warung Brith. Not part of the accommodation scene. The owner/cook is Brith and he takes care to get fresh food. Simple Babar cuisine - Indo-Chinese. Common in this district. Fresh ingredients only. Reasonable prices, full dinner for Rp25,000.
13. Restaurant Gede, a little south of Amed at Lipah Beach, a fishing village. Quality food.
14. The Dancing Dragon Restaurant is part of the seafront Dancing Dragon ‘feng shui’ accommodation property. It is a top quality eatery offering western and Asian dishes.
15. The Pavillion is upmarket and up-hill overlooking the Japanese ship wrecked off the coast north of Amed.

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DRINKING.

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VISITING.

1. On the way to Candi Dasa stop for a while at Klungkung, the old Balinese kingdom’s seat of power for many years. Guides are available to show you around, explaining the architectural styles and to relate the history of the occupations by the Dutch and the Japanese.  The museum is interesting.
2. Amed, a village app 30K north of Candi Dasa. Spectacular rice paddies line the road to Amed. Bali of 20 years ago.
3. Amed Silversmiths. Highly skilled. 95% silver (not 92.5), which is equivalent to Sterling silver. Good designs available or will make to your design. On the road between Amed & Lipah, on the right near Hotel Indra Udhyana.
4. Tirtagangga – Water Palace and springs – peaceful. Built in 1946 it was under renovation in 2003. Café for refreshment and food. Pool for swimming. Beware of the stepping stones across the pool just inside the entrance to your left. Some are just underwater and they are very slippery.
5. Tenganan traditional ‘Bali Aga’ (native Balinese) village closest to town best. Ikat and double ikat weaving. Lontars (inscribed palm leaf community records and calendars) grass weave and smoked place mats.
6. Tabanan – traditional Aga village.
7. Amlapura Markets – Royal Palace. Not many tourists.
8. Budekeling silver village.
9. Tregenungan waterfall and bungey – on way to Candi Dasa.
10. Ciliks Beach Garden
11. Les Village waterfall. Between Lovina and Amed. The ‘best place in Bali’. ‘Bali’s highest waterfall". (?). Longish trek – 1.5 km. 1:10 incline, a bit at the end 1:5. Les is 28 km south east from Lovina. Contact [email protected] for pictures and tours. Sensational.
12. Air Sineh pools. 17 km east of Singaraja – north and west from Candi Dasa.
13. Bukit Jambal. Spectacular views of coast plain. Good restaurants.
14. Jemeluk Bay. Isolated, beautiful. Eat at theDivers Café,an open air restaurant on the beach. Snorkel just off the beach. Hire equipment there. Galang Kangin Bungalows are on the beach. New 2000? Rp80,000. No fridge but one available. Ph/fax (62) 036 323 480. Excellent value.
15. Pasir Putih beach up-coast a bit from Candi Dasa. There are no roads so you will need to hire a boat. It is a secluded cove with beautifully clear blue-green water surrounded by jungle.

 

DOING.

1. Fishing. I Wayan Taman Budiasa (Buddy). Hut next to Sunrise Beach Bungalows. Rp200,000.
   Rp100,000 in June 2001 for half day trip to nearby 3 islands.
   Morning best – choppy water in afternoon.
2. Snorkelling all around Candi Dasa, Lippah, Amed etc. Hire of gear costs about Rp20,000 per day.
3. See the view from the headland just to the east of the town. It’s a steep walk and a bit of an adventure but the view from the top, if you make it, is a bit special. Follow the extra long extension cord to the small hut about halfway up and wonder at its real purpose.
4. Walk up into the hills behind the town. Beautiful landscapes. Very tranquil.
5. Visit Bali Aga (original inhabitants) village at Tenganan and others. See ikat and double ikat weaving, lontar scrolls done as they have been for centuries, smoked weaving of canes and grasses into place mats etc.
6. Klung Kung markets. Historical buildings especially the old Palace and the Hall of Justice with its gristly ceiling.
7. Water Palace at Tirtagangga (‘Water of the Ganges’). Near Amed.
8. Rice terraces near Karangasem which is near Amed.
9. Snorkelling, particularly at the ‘Blue Lagoon’, about 30 min by boat from Candi Dasa on the CD side of the ridge which has Padang Bai on its other side. Best coral and fish including reef sharks (harmless). Rp 150,000 for boat and snorkel gear for two – Rp170,000 for three. Warm water. Snorkel also at White Sands Beach in the opposite direction to the Blue Lagoon. The views back across the coast to Mount Agung are spectacular on a clear day particularly.
10. At Amed the best snorkelling is at the right hand end of Lippah Bay (as you face the water). Selang beach a couple of Km past Amed is also good, or Banyuning a few more Kms on where there is a wreck just a few meters off-shore.
11. Dewi Spa and Salon, Candi Dasa Resort Centre.
12. Tirta Ganga. Have small change and a few notes in one pocket when facing sellers and tour guides. Keep wealth out of sight or prices skyrocket.
13. Visit Amlapura markets – very local.
14. Climb Mount Agung if you’re fit. 4 hours up. Striking dawns from the top looking towards Gunung Rinjani in Lombok with the lights of the villages in the mists below you. 4 hours down.
15. Klungkung historical town. See painted ceilings in Kertha Gosa. Also small museum.
16. At Tulamben, a bit up the coast from Amed towards Singaraja/Lovina, Tauch Terminal have a well organised dive operation and resort. Others are cheaper but have not always inspired confidence. Tauch will pick you up from Kuta if you want them to. Liberty ship wreck about 25 meters and Coral Garden at about 30. Fish include rays, sharks, Scorpion fish Lion fish and Barracuda.
17. Further up the coast (heading north west) is the village of Tembok where you can stay at the Jepun Bali Resort designed by the same architect as the Serai/Alia Manggis resorts. A little further up the coast is the village of Tejakula where there are the ‘horse baths’ bathing pools (for humans) and water falls. Between these two villages the most recent lava flow can be clearly seen like a dry, bare river bed.

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DRIVERS.
There is plenty of transport available locally but it is suggested you book your return trip when you go as you are vulnerable to inflated prices if you have to rely on a local driver to get out of the area.

1. I Komang Mustika (Mickey) 081 2395 3457 or (0363) 41 982.
2. Komang Madog – [email protected]
3. Made Renno from Amed Silver Shop. [email protected]
4. Komang Bajing from Blue Moon Villas. [email protected]
5. Made Ciko (‘Cheek-o’). Candi Dasa. [email protected] Good English, good car, good sense of humour.
6. Robert. Rp200,00/day. (0812) 3906 194. [email protected].

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PEOPLE.

Safari Money Changers.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Standard)

1. Amankila Manggis Pavillons, Candi Dasa - Expensive.
2. Serai. Sister hotel to The Chedi. $$$. Great restaurant. A mix of International and Indonesian cuisines. Not restricted to only hotel guests.
3. Intan. A bit expensive.
4. Sunrise Beach Bungalows. On the beach. From Rp150,000/night for enormous room, A/C, fridge, restaurant. A$75/night for hut. Brick entry painted yellow with big sun motif.
5. Pondok Sari, in Permuteran.
6. Seraya Shores. About 15 min out of Candi Dasa. Driver & jeep provided for access to secluded beaches etc. Villa for 2 US$50/day includes meals and drinks. http://groups.msn.com/SerayaShores  http://groups.msn.com/SerayaShores/shoebox.msnw?Page=1
7. Avoid Pondok Bamboo.
8. Watergarden Hotel. A$120/night. “Fantastic”. Small & intimate, well maintained, good food. “Romantic”!? What was the well respected TJ’s Café is nowthw Watergarden Restaurant (’04) and while not now described as marvellous it is still very good.
9. Pondok Vienna Beach Hotel, Lipah Bay. Transport available from here. Approx US$20/night (Rp150,000) including breakfast and dinner. Fan cooled and cold water (luke warm if you’re lucky). Basic but an excellent location.  Five steps to the beach. A la carte dinner is a bargain.
10. Mimpi Resort. Negotiate rates in low season. Tulamben – better than Amed. Dramatic scenery. Smaller.
11. Hotel Rama Candi Dasa. Bargain from US$90++ to US$40. Good views.
12. The Temple Café has seaside bungalows that are good value and the small, unpretentious restaurant is worth a visit.
13. Kubu Bali. Has wide verandas with chairs and tables. In the middle of Candi Dasa.
14. If you have the kidz with you try the Candi Beach Cottages which really are on the beach. Pool and games area available. Interconnecting rooms for larger groups. If you are into farmyard mornings take the cottages on the right hand side. Those on the left are quieter.
15. VillaRajas on the “beach” front at Candi. Clean, nice bathrooms, some with a very deep bath which was luxurious to soak tired bodies in.
    
    
    

TIRTAGANGGA (“Water of the Ganges”) is a water palace between Candi Dasa and Amed. Accommodation at the Puri Prima above the town gives great views but the accommodation is a little stuffy and old world. From Rp50,000/night.

AMLAPURA is the capital of eastern Bali and the largest town in the area. Limited accommodation. Try Seraya Shores south from the town on the coast. Deluxe Villas Rp250,000/person/night, includes all meals and non-alcoholic drinks, use of driver and vehicle (not petrol). About 8-10 Km from Amlapura, 15 minutes to candi Dasa. E-mail [email protected] checked only 2-3 times a week. No phone.http://groups.msn.com/SerayaShores/shoebox.msnw?Page=1

 

AMED – Be warned that accommodation in Amed is expensive for the quality of the offerings at individual properties. In this respect it is similar to Pacung/Bedugul where there is obviously a lack of competition, but that is not an excuse here.

1.     Blue Moon Villa at Selang Beach – new. Only 5 rooms, sunny and bright, perfectly clean – great views and food – “Ah! The pool . . .” – ‘sensational’. Try the mango margaritas.

2.    Santai, Amed. Very good. Managed by Karen & Kim (f), English/Aussie. Good restaurant. Regular good reviews although perhaps not so good for young kids as the mezzanine part of sleeping accommodation is up a steep stairway. Lots of towels provided. The nearest phone is 40 Km away! Immaculate. See web address above. Rent a fishing boat and see the shipwrecks. See dolphins and hand feed fish. Beachfront bungalow for family about Aus$80/night. Nice pool, friendly staff.

3.    Hidden Paradise Cottages (Amed) good. A$40 / night – A/C. “Recommended”. Perhaps it should be in the “Cheap” section. Don’t expect high quality at these prices.  Some accommodation is evidently available at A$80/night with only fan cooling.  Could not be recommended at this price.

4.    Coral View, Amed. Cheaper than some but Spartan and perhaps not really good value compared with more up-market properties. US$60/night for a family unit. Rules are like a boarding house. No fridges. No water provided. (Same ownership as Hidden Paradise (above), which is Less than US$40/night.) Newer than Hidden Paradise. ‘Run down, dirty, smelly’ – ’03. Probably closest to the few restaurants.

5.    Good Karma Bungalows near Amed. Great position on the beach. Traditional bungalows. Good restaurant. App Rp 100,000 / double.

6.    Candi Dasa Beach Hotel. Rp250,000/night incl. Breakfast. Very central.

7.    Candi Beach Bungalows II.

8.    Candi Beach Cottages. On the beach. Good value, good rooms. Photos http://www.baliforfamilies.com/.

9.    Dewa Bharata Bungalows, Candi Dasa.

10. Pandan House near the Water Palace at Tirtagangga on slopes of Gunung Agung. Two-story living with all western facilities in small village. Rp100,000 per person per night. Accommodates up to 6.

11.  Some travellers have been less than impressed with the Indra Udhyana– particularly given the prices of US$140 – 170 although recent troubles in Bali have allowed bargaining down to US$50/night which is better value. Beautiful lobby and infinity pool. Great bathrooms.

12. Sunshine Bungalows and Restaurant in Amed. Rp150,000 for a ground floor room with A/C, fridge, gigantic bed. Upstairs is Rp2000,000. Nice pool, right on the beach.

13. If you’re into sheng fui then you’ll want to read the rave review of the Dancing Dragon Hotel by Cracker and Rae at http://www.balitravelforum.com/msg/88139.html . Not close to the few restaurants that are available in Amed but the food here at their own Dancing Dragon restaurant is very good and there is a good range of western, asian and vegetarian dishes to select from. There is no real beach here, just a strip of smooth black stones from 1 to 5 meters wide depending on the tide. The ocean starts at the edge of the stones and the coral is only a good flipper kick away.

14. At Tulumben - Scuba Seraya Resort. [email protected].

15. Bayu Cottages, Amed. (Lipah Beach) Even better than the web pages depict. Beautiful beach, lovely accommodation, Open air bathroom, terrific toilet view. Fridge not standard but you only need to ask.

16. .Puri Wirata next to WaWa WeWe II in Amed. New in ’04. Only 5 A/C rooms overlooking the sea. Pool. Restaurant has nice food but is a bit slow yet. (Sept comment.) Rate of US$60 (incl tax & service charges) is negotiable and for a longer stay rooms can be had for Rp 200-350,000.

17.

ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

1. Hotel Rama, Candi Dasa – Cheap accommodation – expensive meals.
2. Good Karma Bungalows in Amed. Has good rest. also. A$20/night.
3. Coral View Villas, better than hidden Paradise –newer. Probably closer to the few independent restaurants.
4. Lipah Inn. A$18/p/night. A/C.
5. AMED – Many budget places - www.santaibali.com ,
6. Wawa Wewe 2. Ahmed. Front bungalow for Rp150,000/night.
7. Pondok Wisata Kerti Inn, at Padang Bai. Up/down stairs accom Rp50,000/night.
8. Eka Purnama. Only 4 bungalows. Rp80,000 for a single person. Very clean. Over looks ocean. Rent boats for A$4 for round trip along coast. Reservations [email protected].
9. Puri Oke Cottages. Less than Rp200,000/night. Hotel backs onto beach. Room No 4 overlooks ocean. Small pool A/C & fridge but check the hot water. 3***.
10. Pondok Bambu Restaurant & Bungalows. Feed the cocky but don’t shake hands with him.
11. Puri Oka Cottages. E-mail [email protected]
12. Pondok Vienna Beach accommodation at US$50 is not recommended by some, “Dark, dank & dirty’, yet others recommend the corner room upstairs in the A/C section at US$25 (Rp175,000) with breakfast and one other meal. Rp175,000 in ’03 on second floor. Hot water intermittent but promptly attended to when complaints made. No pool here but on the beach which is good for snorkelling.
13. Indra Hotel. Adjoining rooms for family accommodation US$100. Large clean pool. Great food next door at the Dancing Dragon.
14. Hotel Fajar, Candi Dasa. Family owned and run. Beachfront. Pool. www.fajarcandidasa.com.
15. Seaview Cottages. In the US$15 / night price range.Clean and nice, especially for the price.
16. Prema Leong, Amed. On a hill. Nice bungalows. Outside bathroom. Rp80,000/night.
17. In Padang Bai try the Kerti Bungalows. Right on the beach. Clean, large rooms. Friendly. Good food.
18. Puri Dan Cottages. Good food too. On the beach, such as it is in Candi Dasa. Almost next to Seaside Cottages which are a little better and a little dearer.
19. Seaside Cottages, Candi Dasa. Clean. Owned by Shirley. http://micbali.proboards21.com/index.cgi?board=East&action=display&num=1067603976 .
20. At Padang Bai, if you want to stop along the way to Candi or Amed, try the Pure Rai Hotel which has the only two swimming pools in Padang Bai. Rooms 101 and 106 are on the top level above the reception area and have sea views, rooms 305 and 306 are close to the pool but don’t have a sea view. They are very large with ornate king size beds. Very clean, good storage, fridge, A/C, nice bathrooms, veranda to watch the passing marine parade from the ferry port just down the coast. Rp225,000/room/night including breakfast and worth it. There are quite a few cafes, warungs and Home Stays in Padang Bai which is a secret place for a few dedicated surfers and a few snorkellers. From Padang Bai you can walk (about a quarter of an hour) over and around the spur that separates it from the next bay to the north where the Blue Lagoon is. Not an easy stroll. Go north east along the beach (that’s to your left as you face the beach) and just before the road that leads to Padang Bai’s three temples there is a signposted track up the hill and then fairly steeply down the hill to the beach at Blue Lagoon. There are a few stalls and sellers on the beach, not pushy.
21. The Kerti Inn at Padang Bai is also cheap, comfortable, safe and has internet connections.
22. Bayu Cottages at Amed/Lipah are nice at US$18-25 per night. Family run, on the beach, nice plunge pool, A/C, clean.

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# 10 – WESTERN BALI SECTION.

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The western section of Bali is the area nearest Java, furthest from the southern tourist areas and the business/government centre of Bali in Denpasar.

If the road to Singaraja and Lovina is ‘the road less travelled’ then the roads to the west of Bali could only be described as positively deserted as far as tourists are concerned, although both are very significant highways as far as the island’s commercial and local connections to mainstream Indonesia in Java is concerned.
Although there are these north and south coast roads, there is nothing to connect the two across the highest mountains. Only by going through Gillimanuk where the northern and southern roads meet at the furthest western end of the island or by going east to the road which links Seririt on the north coast to the south coast north west of Tanah Lot temple can you get from north to south or vice versa. The Sererit road is steep in places but spectacular in its own way.

The road from Denpasar/Kuta etc passes down through Soka and the glimpses of the ocean to your left are great, as are the forest views towards the hinterland. Negara is a large town but not really tourist oriented except when the bull races are on.  The Taman Wana Villas are a nice place to stay by the Palasari Dam which serves recreational purposes as well. Further along past Negara and Kandikusama is the village of Melaya which was developed a bit by the Dutch during their occupation of Bali. There are two churches here but rural pursuits, including the wild cocoa and vanilla groves and palm sugar (‘jaggery’) production in large dishes over open fires is interesting. The isolated fishing villages have small huts standing out in the water which can not be seen anywhere else on Bali as far as I know. They are used mainly by pearl divers. If you head inland just after Candikusuma yo head up and down through beautiful little villagelike Nusasari, Ekasari and Pukasari and will eventually come to a surprising Catholic community and the little known Taman Wana Villas a bit further on, near the Palasari River and reservoir, right next to the West Bali National Park. These villas have an advertised rate of $250 per night but in ’04 could be bargained down to $112. A lagoon view room is advertised at $363.

A little south of Negara is the bull racing arena at Pangambengam. You can see minor races or training sessions quite frequently but the main money events are in August and October. The big events, particularly, are colourful and spectacular.
Western Bali is the ‘left hand’ side of the map and it sees the end of the central mountains that run across the island. It is quite arid in parts but the tropical forest in the National Park is lush in the deepest valleys. In the park you may be lucky enough to see the very rare andtherefore very valuable, white, Bali Sparrow. Don’t get caught if you’re tempted to try to catch one. The penalties are extreme and the ‘Bali Hilton’ (jail) in Kerobokan is not at all like the Hilton in Nusa Dua.

The inhabitants along the poorer parts of the north west coast are re-settled Balinese from the separation of East Timor. They seem to have just been dumped in a place that no-one else could live in or wanted.
The main attractions, apart from the ferries to Java which depart from Gillimanuk and the associated docks and bus terminal, are the West Bali National Park, in the highlands mainly, and the snorkelling around Menjangan Island (which is also included within the park boundaries). Admission to the island costs about Rp15,000 which covers boat, guide, entry fees, car parking and snorkelling equipment hire. Sharing with a larger group reduces the costs per individual. If you intend to spend some days in the water it might pay you to buy/bring your own mask so that you know you’re going to see things. The largest flippers (fins) that you’re likely to find will be 46.

 

Shopping –

1.           

 

Eating –

1.        The Pondok Sari hotel at Permuteran has a good reputation. It faces the beach at Permuteran. There are really no hawkers on the beach which is nice for swimming. The backdrop to the hotel from here is one of frequently mist shrouded mountains just inland from the coastal strip. Peaceful.

2. Ponjok Indah Restaurant in Kayuputih. Aussie steaks, veg, salad, fries, juice from Rp60,000. Good wine selection. Pure fruits – no additives; coconut, banana, Ananas, sirsak.

 

Drinking –

 

Visiting –

1.          You’ve got to see the ferry terminal at Gillimanuk, if only to say you’ve been there. Have a quick look at the bus terminal but be careful that the enthusiastic bus drivers or their pushers do not load you onto a bus to somewhere.

2.         The temple Pura Melanting about 5 km from Permuteran (25 from Gillimanuk ferry terminal) is built on the side of a hill and has interesting architecture and carvings.

3.         Hot springs were found between Permuteran and Gillimanuk, just off the main northern road and just inside the Park boundary, but they are now generally dry except at the peak of the wet season.

Doing –

1.          Go snorkelling at Menjangan Island. A 30 minute boat ride. Your boat will anchor over uninspiring sand shallows but a few flips off and there are spectacular underwater cliffs. It will take about an hour to cover the length of the most spectacular ‘drop-off’ about 20 meters out from shore at one beach along to the beach at the other end. Even in poor conditions the visibility is 15 – 20 metres.
Over an hours drive from Lovina but well worth it. Rp164,000 /person with packed lunch from local restaurant. Full day trip from 8 am to 4 pm return to hotel. In ’04 a group of three paid Rp470,000 for all gear and the boat ride.
Menjangan is Bahasa Indonesia for deer which often swim the short distance from the mainland to the island. There are a few temples but no permanent inhabitants.

2.         Bali’s ‘Romeo and Juliet’ grave site at the Jayaprana Temple is not far from Menjangen Island. About 15 Km from Gillimanuk along the main road towards Lovina/Singaraga, a sign will point the way. The story, in brief, is one of love between Jayaprana, the adopted son of the king, and beautiful Layonsari, and the regal lust that resulted in the death of the beautiful lovers and the royal warrior who had been sent hunting with Jayanprana, ostensibly to guard him but in fact to murder him. The gods intervened in the plot and the murder failed repeatedly until Jayanprana realised what was happening and allowed himself to be killed with his own kris out of love and respect for the king. A magical white tiger then killed the guard and Layonsari commited suicide on hearing the news. The lovers and the guard who now watches over them for eternity are all buried at the site which is now revered as a temple. To read the story with the added flavour of being told in stilted English by an Indonesian. Go to www.hotelwww.net/balibarat/jayaprana.htm.

3.         Watch the endless lines of ferries going to and from Java. The skill of the skippers when docking amid maritime confusion in a cross wind and following swell should be appreciated. Keep clear of the stampede to the bus terminal when a passenger ferry arrives.

4.         Negara is a town on the south west coast. In September or October each year there is a big event for racing buffalos. Details are available in the south from Peanuts Nightclub (Jl Legian) who sponsor the events and organise a large bus to take tourists up there.

5.          

 

Accommodation - (Standard) –

1.        The big mama of hotels is the Matahari near the small village of Permuteran. Of interest only to wealthy Americans on a business card holiday, and Japanese ‘wanna-be’s’, you’ll need to outlay about US$200 per person per night to luxuriate in the magnificence of their facilities.

2.       Pondok Sari Beach Bungalows and restaurant are at Permuteran, a village on the east-west road that runs across the northern coast. US$40, Rp325,000 (inc tax) for a Bali style A/C room, outdoor bathroom and occasional hot water. No in-room fridges at all. It faces the beach at Permuteran. The beaches here are a mixture of coral sands which are on the coarse side and dark grey volcanic sands – the famous but not accurately named ‘black sand’ beaches of the north coast. There are really no hawkers on the beach which is nice for swimming. The backdrop to the hotel from here is one of frequently mist shrouded mountains just inland from the coastal strip. Peaceful. Diving tuition available.

3.       Taman Sari Bali Cottages, close to the Pondok Sari, is an eco-based place with an interesting coral re-growth program just off shore. There are only a couple of cottages with fridges, the cheapest of which, if you’re lucky enough to find it vacant when you want it, is priced at US$80. Diving tuition available.

4.       Reef Seen. A small eco-hotel which runs a turtle rescue program. Horse riding on the beach an option here.

5.       Villa Agung Beach Inn.

 

Accommodation – (Cheap) -

 

 

 

# 11 - LOMBOK. DISTRICT SECTION.

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Lombok is the languid island to the east of Bali. There is a travel forum at http://groups.msn.com/LombokLovers .

It is similar to Bali in many ways, but so different in many others, including the religious base of majority of the inhabitants, which makes it more susceptible to political/religious disturbances.

Life does not have the frenetic pace of the Kutas, Legians or Nusa Duas but proceeds at a pace more reminiscent of Bali a generation or two ago.

To the regret of some travellers it is developing in the same way that Bali has.

Peregrine and Gecko offers small tours at reasonable prices for first timers or those travelling on their own who would like company.

BY AIR – Merpati, schedules at www.merpati.co.id, (Air Mark ceased operations in ’03) takes about 35 minutes to fly their shuttles to Lombok, landing at Mataram, the capital which leaves about a 20 minute taxi ride to Sengigi, the main tourist centre. Advertised departure times have a certain flexibility if the flight is not full or if some passengers are a bit late in arriving. This is Bali after all!  Prices etc – http://www.travelindo.com/, in ’03 the cost was Rp 273,000, Rp450,000 return. Twin turbo prop engined 22 – 40 seaters with good views. Six or seven flights each day to a fairly reliable timetable, except perhaps for last flight of the day that can be cancelled at times. Book or simply arrive and buy your tickets at the offices in the domestic terminal at Ngurah Rai Airport or at any tour shop in Bali which can be a bit cheaper - but don’t pay more than the correct price. The Lombok airport is near Mataram, the capital, much closer to the tourist areas than the seaport of Lembar. Airfares from Bali Rp237,000 one way. Departure tax about Rp20,000 each way.  Cheaper than the high speed sea ferry from Benoa port? 20 minutes. Rp432,000 return. Remarkable views from some wind directions. Can the pilots be bribed to fly a double, wide circuit? Book at the domestic terminal at Ngurah Rai Airport in Tuban or dozens of agents around Bali.
Air Paradise are proposing to have a Lombok stopover on one flight from Oz each week soon.

Travira Air (9 passenger float plane) and The Oberoi, Lombok offer a day package from Bali. Lunch included. Wednesdays and Fridays departing 12.30 pm from Ngurah Rai airport, returning at 4 pm. Min 4 people. US$135 + 10% tax.

 

BY SEA. - The ‘Mabua Express’ high-speed catamaran that left from Benoa Harbour near Sanur evidently no longer runs, but may return to service in June 2003.  ** July ’03 announcement that the boat is up for sale.*** The fare was Rp470,000 return. A new craft, the ‘Bounty’ or the ‘Oseania 3’, is similar to the Mabua but more expensive – US$35 each way, app Rp800,000 (return) from Benoa Harbour (NOT Tanjung Benoa)at 8.30 am daily. Ph (Bali) (0361) 723 577 or 723 353 and in Lombok (0370) 626 757 or 631 034 or 644 051. They dock at Lembar Port on the south-western coast of Lombok at 11.45 stopping at Padang Bai (10.15 am) for 45 mins on the way. It is quite a long ride from Lembar port to the Lombok capital of Mataram, the northwest tourist areas and the Gillis Islands. The return trip departs from Lembar Port at 1.45 pm via Padang Bai (3.45 pm) and arrives in Benoa Port at 4.45 pm. The trip can be terminated at Padang Bai if you wish (from either direction) and takes about an hour from Benoa (Rp54,000) or an hour and a half from Lembar (Rp75,000).

The "local" slow ferry from Padang Bai is the cheapest (about Rp10,000) but it can be standing room only for the whole trip which takes at least 4 hours, may be up to 9 hours which is pure hell!. (Padang Bai is about 2 hours up the east coast from Kuta.) They leave about every 1.5 hours if there are enough passengers. These are not recommended except perhaps for the hardy. They dock at Lembar Port in Lombok (as does everything) which is a very inconvenient landing far from the tourist areas around Sengigi which is even further north than the capital, Mataram.

There is now (’04) a Perama boat from beautiful little Padang Bai on the mid south east coast of Bali to Sengiggi the capital of Lombok, then going on to the popular GiliTrawangan. The boat only takes about 20 passengers per 4 hour trip. Breakfast and lunch are provided on the boat. Upstairs there is a deck for sunbathing if the crossing is calm. If it’s rough – hang on.  At Sengigi walk to the Perama office as its only about 5 minutes. Don’t believe the guys with the cimodo’s (horse carriages) who offer you a ‘cheap’ ride. Check the Perama web site, www.peramatours.com .

There is now (’04) a fast Padangbai Express ferry boat from Padang Bai which takes about an hour and a half and costs Rp70,000. They depart at 9.30 am every day. There is a ticket office at the Padang Bai harbour.

There is also a service run by Bounty Cruises from Benoa on the east coast at US$28pp one way. It is a luxury and high-tech craft. The fare is about US$30-40 one way. (’03)  This service depends very much on booked numbers (check with their office daily) and normally runs only on Tuesday and Saturday.

When you get to Lembar Port, walk about 5 minutes past the touts who will try to hassle you into their vehicles with all sorts of lies and inflated prices, to the taxi rank out on the road. Much cheaper!

Take a bus or taxi from Lembar to Bangsal (about 2 hours) to catch a public boat to the Gillis. The buses leave when they are full, but you can ‘charter’ one by buying the ‘empty’ seats, which will then, remarkably, immediately fill up with all those locals you thought were just lounging around watching the passing scenery!  Cost Rp50-70,000.

BY PERAMA. - The real budget way is to put your faith in the Perama Bus Service. About US$8-10 They will take you from your Bali hotel foyer to your Lombok foyer via bus and ferry or whatever. It’s a fun way to meet the locals but not if you’re in a hurry.  7-8 hours.

The Blue Bird taxi group also runs in Lombok and are as reliable and honest as those in Bali. Bemos (small local buses) and cimodo’s (horse drawn transport carts) are both cheap and a fun way to travel short distance (in a longer time).

The following information was posted on the Bali Travel Forum by a regular & reliable poster, Kimba® – (http://www.balitravelforum.com/archive200204/18673.html)
To get to Sengiggi, Lombok from Bali you have a few options.

1)       Public Ferry. Take the public ferry from Padangbai in East Bali, to Lembar in Lombok. Costs about 10.000 rupiah per person, one-way. Buy your ticket in Padangbai from the port ticket office. The ferry takes about 4-7 hours depending on the seas. You have to get yourself to Padangbai though (a couple of hours from Kuta), and would then have to arrange transport from Lembar to Sengiggi (about 1 hour's drive), which can be a hassle to arrange in the hustle of the port. Not recommended, myself...

2)      Go with Perama, a tour/travel/transport company in Bali. For about Rp50.000-70.000 per person, one way (depends where in Bali you are travelling from), you get a bus to Padangbai, a ticket on the public ferry, and a bus from Lembar to Sengiggi. You can arrange to be picked up from your hotel for an extra fee. Perama have a main office in Jalan Legian, Kuta, or you can buy tickets from travel agents, tourist info offices (eg the one in Ubud). Perama have 2 trips a day to Lombok. This option is good if you want to save money, and have plenty of time on your hands (it takes about a full day to get from Kuta to Sengiggi this way).  www.hallofreun.de/perama-e.html for timetables.

3)      Fast boat. You have 3 options - Mabua Express, Bounty Cruises and now, Oseania 3. They depart from Benoa in Bali (near Sanur) and take about 2.5 hours to cross to Lombok. You can buy tickets from travel agents in Bali, or direct from the company's offices in Benoa.  
* Mabua Express - costs $US25/$US35 (Emerald/Diamond class - lower or upper deck) one way. Goes from Benoa to Lembar so again you have to arrange transfers from Lembar to Sengiggi (an hour away).
* Bounty - costs $US25/$US30 (economy/ executive) one way, or $US45/$US55 return. Goes from Benoa to Nusa Lembongan, then to Teluk Nara in Lombok (about 30 minutes north of Sengiggi). Returns to Bali via Gilli Meno.

4)      Air. Air Mark has closed shop and now Merpati (schedulkes at www.merpati.co.id) alone flies to Lombok from Denpasar about 5 times a day, flying time takes about 25 minutes, and fares are cheap (about the same as the fast boat). Buy tickets from travel agents in Bali. Air Mark costs about Rp240.000 one way or 480.000 return.

5)      Merpati costs about 450.000 return. The airport in Lombok is near Mataram which is about 20 minutes south of Sengiggi; you can take a taxi from there.

6)      As for hotel recommendations, I may not be the best person to ask, as I don't do the fancy hotel thing, I prefer to stay in relatively 'budget' accommodation, like small hotels and bungalows. In my 'resort days' I previously stayed once at Intan Laguna Sengiggi, which was pleasant, with really beautiful grounds, 2 pools, right on the beach, and pretty central to everything in Sengiggi (cafes, restaurants, shops). In Sengiggi these days I'll be staying at Bulan Baru (which is actually 25 minutes north of Sengiggi) but I don't know if it's the type of thing you're after?  Check the web site at  http://communities.ninemsn.com.au/LOMBOKBULANBARUHOTEL
There should also be some further info about Oseania3 and options for getting to Lombok, on the Bulan Baru website.

 

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SHOPPING.
The exchange rate in Lombok is generally not quite as good as in the southern tourist areas of Bali. The honest and reliable PT Central money changing offices run in the Kodak shops as they do in Bali. No trouble with credit cards but a 3% fee is often charged to use them. Travellers cheques attract about Rp25 to 50 (1/2 to 1 cent) less / dollar than cash. (This is common throughout Indonesia.)

Shopping is similar to Bali but on a much smaller scale and not as frenetic.

There is a new shopping mall with a McDonalds(!) in Mataram –2002.

1. Classical weaving, basket ware and pottery are common items. Also quality bamboo furniture.
2. Big covered market at Sweta is not to be missed.
3. Lombok pearls are worth searching for. Can be offered by the beach sellers on the Gillis. Various colours, pink, coffee, green, blue, silver, black. Cheapest on the Gillis, Rp 40-60,000 for bracelets, necklaces and anklets of small size pearls. Value in Sengiggi but 5-10 times the price in Kuta.  Consider the cost of quality re-threading when you get them home.  A$25 for set of necklace bracelet and anklet from Novian the massage man at Puri Tanah Lot Hotel on Camplung Mas Lane off Melasti St, and from the front of the Jayakarta Hotel, Legian. Also sellers at Legian Beach end of Jl Double 6 outside the beach cafes such as Benny’s, Zanzibar etc. Also Lalu Samani Ph (361) 757 170, Rp50,000 for large strands of large coloured pearls.  Aus$20 necklaces and Aus$5 wrist bracelets have been reliably valued at A$60 – 80.

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EATING.

Watch the chillies!!!

1. Asmara, Sengiggi. Steaks! 3 course incl drinks (Aust Chardonnay) A12/head.
2. Taman. Circular rest on first floor. More $$$ than Asmara for atmosphere & outlook. Food as good.
3. On the Gillies – 2kg snapper grilled with potatoes and salad, Rp45,000.
4. Bumbu Café in the centre of Sengiggi.
5. Try the Sugar Restaurant in the new shopping Plaza.
6. Papaya Café.

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DRINKING.

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VISITING.

1. Banumulek village – pottery.
2. Sukarare village – weaving & wood carving.
3. Sasak village –traditional.
4. Gilli Nanggu – south west. PARADISE not lost. Uninhabited except for owner and visitors. Rest and back packer grade accom. Super fine sand. Amazing snorkelling.
5. Lombok Orphanage – PATMOS, Jl Abdullah bin ABD, Kadir Munsyi No 20, Ph (0370) 626 441. Supported by Dutch woman, Lieke Rotsteeg, contact Front Office manager at the Sengiggi Beach Hotel, Putu Indiawan. Donations are very welcome.

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DOING.

1. Overnight tours by Wali Bali good value. A$200. By Malibu Express Fast ferry. O/night at Jayakarta Hotel near Sengiggi Beach. Possible to extend stay if you like it.
2. Big market at Mataram, the capital. Incredible sights!
3. Visit pottery village, cane furniture makers weaving village and Sasak (native) village.
4. Go diving/snorkelling at the Gillis (islands just offshore). You can get there by hiring a local small boat for about Rp100,000.  Hire gear on the beach for Rp10,000. Half day trip by glass-bottom boat with snorkelling gear, Rp40,000. The current runs from the northern end of the beach and will carry you down the length of the reef with little effort on your part.
   Gilli Trawangan is the party island. The landing port at the Gillis is Bengsal and there will be a number of juvenile touts who will want to cheat you in every way imaginable.
5. Sidanggala Falls. South from Anyar on the north coast thro’ Bayan and Batukok to Senaru. A fair walk down but standing on the stones under the falls (with your hands over your ears to stop the stinging of the water) is rewarding. There are even better falls further down but remember you‘ve got to get up again.
6. Watch the dawn light up the volcanoes on Bali.

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DRIVERS.

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PEOPLE.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Standard)

1. Sheraton Sengiggi 5*
2. Holiday Inn Lombok. A bit further up the coast than some.  4* - excellent. Perhaps a bit far from the tourist centres, which you might like but it also means a taxi ride to shops.
3. Novotel – Kuta Bay (beautiful scenery). Good but isolated.
4. Villa Ombok on Gilli Trawangan. US$50/night. Excellent services, food, pool & dive centre.
5. Matahari Inn at Kuta Bay on the south coast. US$40 for the ‘honeymoon suite’. Accommodation, food &service wonderful. Scooter hire. US$4/day – safer than Bali. 10 min to beach.
6. Intan Laguna. Big pool and nice gardens. Restaurants close to hotel.
7. Intan Lombok Village on the beach at Sengiggi. 3-4 ***.
8. Bulan Baru, about 10Km north of the Senggigi hotels and a 1 minute walk to the beach. A/C rooms for Rp150,000 / night. Barb and Mal are good hosts and helpful to the tourist.

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ACCOMMODATION. (Cheap)

1. Hotel Nusa Bunga. Small & peaceful. 5 Km past Sengiggi. Bungalows – pool – nice gardens. 20 paces to the ocean. Cheapish.
2. Lots of very cheap places on Gilli Trawangan, but don’t expect anything even part way reasonable at this level. Most are up the side streets that run off the main beach drag. Rp20-30,000.
3. The Kontiki on Gilli Meno is basic. Salt-water showers, generator-powered fan on hot nights, bottom sheet and quilt supplied.
4. Bulan Baru Hotel (‘Full moon hotel’). Close to Sengiggi with easy access to shops, cafes etc. Fairly new (2002), A/C. Rp130-150,000 / night. Close to the sea but no hawkers. Ex-Perth owners (Barbara). http://www.ewgate.com/ewtranslite.html . http://groups.msn.com/LOMBOKBULANBARUHOTEL
5. Bukit Sengiggi Seaview Cottages. In the centre of Sengiggi on Jl Jaya opposite Lina’s on the side of a small hill. Comfortable and well run. 100 mtr to the beach. Pool. Rp100-200,000/double room with fridge & TV/night incl b/fast when tourists are scarce.
6. On Gilli Trawangan – Sagitorous Bungalows. Rp50,000 for bungalow with 2 queen beds, mozzie nets, fan, cold (sea) water, breakfast, friendly staff. Toilets are ‘aim-and-fire’ and hope nobody before you missed. Check the beds anywhere for sand fleas.
7. Villa Umbak (next to Sagitorous) is more up-market. Food is great too.
8. Puri Bunga. Similar to Nusa Bunga but more central. Less hassles commuting. Basic accom but has a pool.
9. Graha Sengiggi. You might bargain down to p100-150,000. Nice pool, A/C, beachfront. Incl b/fast. 250 meters south is Alberto’s on the beach for a great dinner.
10. Santai Beach Inn. App Rp80,000/night. 5 km north of Sengiggi, about 1 km before the Holiday Inn. www.SantaiBeachInn.com .
11. Raja’s Bungalows. Owner is Adrian, known as ‘King’. He can arrange drivers for you.