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Cairo Dining
Cairo's restaurant scene has expanded greatly in the past few years, as have the local wine and beer industries. You'll find many Egyptian restaurants in all price ranges, and fresh fish, ordered by the pound from a display case and cooked to order, is a local specialty. Dinner cruises are also very popular. For variety, you can sample fine Italian, Swiss, French and Asian restaurants, in addition to restaurants serving other Middle Eastern countries' specialties. Muslims do not eat pork, and few restaurants serve it. Alcohol is also forbidden to strict Muslims; however, most restaurants serve at least wine and beer. In most places listed, major credit cards (Visa, MasterCard and American Express) are accepted, but it's best to call first to make sure.
Reservations are not necessary unless otherwise noted. Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than £E 50; $$ = £E 50-£E 100; $$$ = more than £E 100.
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS
Cortigiano-A local take on an Italian bistro. The menu in this cozy restaurant revolves around chewy pizzas, hearty pastas, and meat and fish dishes with a wide variety of sauces. Excellent value for the money is one reason it's usually packed with dedicated fans. Daily 1 pm-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. 44 Michel Bakkum St. (Dokki), Cairo. Phone 337-4838.
El Gato Negro-This bar-restaurant went through several incarnations before settling on the current one: a sort of party scene. The small space attracts a hip, expat crowd. Weekly events include salsa night, Russian night, deejay night and Mexican night. Food and drink specials correspond to the theme of the night. Thursday nights are a must for the club crowd-they warm up there before heading off to the clubs. $-$$. No credit cards. 32 Jeddah St. (Mohandiseen), Cairo. Phone 361-6888.
The Grill-Stunning Nile views and exquisite service. Try such nouveau French specialties as shrimp wrapped in wontons and filet of beef in parmesan crust and black-olive sauce. Daily 7 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the Semiramis Inter-Continental Hotel. Corniche el-Nil (Garden City), Cairo. Phone 795-7171.
Justine's-Leather armchairs and artful service distinguish this as a sophisticated place. Chicken in a pineapple and pepper curry sauce and beef in Bernaise sauce are two highlights. Save room for the warm apple tart. Daily 1-3 pm and 8-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 4 Hassan Sabry St. (Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 736-2961.
Khan Khalili Restaurant/Naguib Mahfouz Cafe-The only good place to eat in the Khan el-Khalili bazaar, this restaurant and cafe is run by the Oberoi hotel chain. Service is impeccable, the Middle Eastern food is excellent and the atmosphere is a perfect complement to the delicately spiced food. The cafe-good for a snack or light meal-is named for the famous Nobel Prize-winning writer, who used to eat there almost every day. Daily 10 am-2 am. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 5 Sekket el-Badistan (Islamic Cairo in Khan el-Khalili), Cairo. Phone 590-3788.
La Bodega-A newcomer to Cairo's dining and nightlife scene, with a fresh look and attitude. The dining room is popular with the city's nouveau riche, and the extensive bar and lounge are a destination in themselves. Daily 7 pm-1 am. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 157 26th of July St. (Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 735-6761.
The Moghul Room-Not only the best Indian food in Cairo, but some of the best food, period. Located across from the pyramids, this restaurant matches sublime food with peerless service. Portions are large. We recommend everything on the menu, but advise you definitely to leave room for the kulfi (Indian ice cream). Live Indian music is performed. Daily 12:30-2:45 pm and 7:30-11:45 PM Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. El-Haram Street (in the Mena House Oberoi Hotel), Giza. Phone 383-3222.
LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES
Alfi Bey-This restaurant specializes in kebab and kofta dishes and has been in business for more than 60 years. Also on the menu are stuffed pigeon, lamb chops and grilled chicken. Basic Egyptian food at its best, served in a friendly atmosphere. Daily noon-1 am. $. No credit cards. 3 El-Alfi St. (downtown), Cairo. Phone 577-1888.
Ataturk-A jewel of an eatery, serving Turkish specialties in a beautiful blue and aqua interior. Start with the foot-long slab of hot spiced bread eaten with meze and finish with the milky, rich ara assali (pumpkin dessert). Grilled beef, lamb and chicken are also good. Daily 10 am-2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. 20 Riyahd St. (Mohandiseen off Shehab Street ), Cairo. Phone 347-5135.
El-Omda-A popular (and packed) restaurant specializing in the local favorite, kosheri, a mix of rice, lentils and pasta, served with hot sauce on the side. It draws locals and visitors from all over the city. Upstairs is a vegetarian cafe with a pool table and coffee corner. Open 24 hours daily. $. No credit cards. 6 El-Gazar St. (Mohandiseen, near the Atlas Hotel), Cairo. Phone 345-2387.
Felfela-Part of a Cairo chain of restaurants specializing in down-to-earth Egyptian cuisine. Particularly good (and cheap) is fuul, a bean dish drizzled with oil or topped with an egg. Interior: pure kitsch. Guests range from the designer-dressed to the galabiya-clad. This downtown branch is the one most convenient for visitors. Daily 7 am-12:30 am. $. No credit cards. 15 Hoda Shaarawy St. (downtown, near Talaat Harb Square), Cairo. Phone 392-2833.
Papillon-Cairo's Lebanese residents say this is the best Lebanese food in town. It also has a lovely, relaxing atmosphere. Daily noon-1 am. $$. Visa and MasterCard. 26th of July Street (Mohandiseen, in the Tirsana Shopping Center), Cairo. Phone 347-1672.
Samakmak-Fish lovers should try the Cairo branch of this famed Alexandrian restaurant. There's an intimate ambience and an excellent choice of fresh fish. Try your selection grilled and slathered in Samakmak's famous spice blend. Fresh, delicious Middle Eastern salads, rice and pasta come with every meal. Daily 10 am-5 am. $$. No credit cards. 92 Ahmed Orabi St. (Mohandiseen), Cairo. Phone 347-8232.
ASIAN Bua Khao-Authentic Thai dishes, beautifully prepared and served. Daily noon-11 PM $. Visa and MasterCard. 9 Road 151 (Maadi). Phone 358-0126. Another branch is located among the restaurants on the lower level of the Nile Hilton Shopping Annex. Tahrir Square (downtown). Phone 578-0444.
Ha Na-If you like Korean food, try this authentic, no-frills restaurant. All meals begin with pa'anchan-small dishes of pickled cabbage, fried tofu, black beans and other vegetables. Move on to pulgogi-strips of beef cooked at your table. Excellent hot and cold soups. Daily noon-10 PM $. No credit cards. 21 Maahad el-Swissry St. (Zamalek, in the Nile Zamalek Hotel). Phone 341-9734.
Kandahar-The best-kept secret in town, this restaurant is tucked away on the first floor of a downtown building with a glass elevator on the outside. Owned and operated by the same Oberoi chain that runs the estimable Moghul Room in the Mena House Oberoi Hotel, but with a location perhaps more accessible to tourists. It provides the same richly flavored food, served by efficient staff in a peaceful, elegant atmosphere. The kandahari dal, paneer makhani and buttery naan are particularly delicious. Daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 3 Gamaat el-Dowel, El-Arabia Street (Mohandiseen). Phone 303-0615.
Le Peking-Both in atmosphere and service, this branch of the popular local chain is considered king. An extensive menu offers a wide variety of Chinese cuisine. Live music starting from midnight each evening. Daily 1 PM-1 am. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 23B Ismail Mohammed St. (Zamalek). Phone 736-9991 or 736-3894.
The Regent-Authentic Sichuan cuisine prepared by Chinese chefs. The hot and sour soup is as good as it gets and the entrees, especially the sweet and sour shrimp, are delicious. Elegant atmosphere, beautiful furnishings, excellent service. Daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 1115 Corniche el-Nil (downtown, in the Ramses Hilton Hotel). Phone 574-4400.
DINNER CRUISES
Nile Maxim-Operated by the Marriott Hotel, this is one of the most elegant cruising restaurants on the Nile. Daily dinner cruises are 7:30-9:30 PM and 10:30 PM-12:30 am and include a salad bar, entree choices and live entertainment. Lunch cruises are also available Friday-Sunday 2:30-4:30 PM $$$. Most major credit cards. The boat docks across from the Cairo Marriott Hotel. For reservations, call 339-4608.
Nile Peking-The boat featured in Agatha Christie's Death on the Nile has been renovated and turned into a dinner-cruise boat and lounge. Fixed-price menus are perfectly timed with a two-hour cruise up and down the Nile. Join the cruise either afternoons or evenings opposite Ministerly Palace on Corniche el-Nil (just south of Garden City). Phone 517-0839.
Nile Pharaoh-This boat, operated by the Oberoi hotel chain, offers fixed-price menus with your choice of five entrees plus salad and dessert bars. Food is good, but the two "bars" are the best part. Very good entertainment, including a belly dancer and a folklore show. Pharaonic decor puts you in the mood. Dinner cruises daily at 7:15, 8 and 10 PM Lunch cruises daily at 2:30 PM $$. Most major credit cards. 31 El-Nil St. (Giza). For reservations, call 570-1000.
Scarabee-One of the oldest and most famous of the city's cruising restaurants. Buffet dining with an international flavor. Good selection of appetizers and entrees (grilled meats, chicken and fish) and excellent desserts. Middle Eastern cabaret with belly dancer. The deck is the place for sunset aperitifs and after-dinner digestifs. Daily cruises 2:30-4 PM, 7:30-9:30 PM and 10 PM-midnight $$. Most major credit cards. The boat docks in front of the Shepheard Hotel on Corniche el-Nil (Garden City). No phone. FRENCH Le Champollion-A sleek, private dining room with a ground-floor Nile view, serving classic French cuisine. Excellent beef filet, creamy white bean soup with smoky slices of duck, and delicious jumbo shrimp with asparagus. Experienced, professional service. Daily 7:30-11:30 PM $$$. Most major credit cards. Corniche el-Nil (Garden City, in Le Meridien Cairo Hotel). Phone 362-1717.
ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)
Rossini-Upscale, relaxed Italian restaurant, enhanced by a soothing peach color scheme and live piano music. There's an open-air pergola for outdoor seating on warm evenings. We recommend the calamari and octopus salads, shrimp in garlic sauce, grouper with pesto and the tiramisu. Daily 1 PM-1 am. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 66 Omar ibn el-Khattab St. Phone 291-8282.
Tia Maria-Small, cozy restaurant with loyal fans. Excellent pasta, beef and seafood, full bar. Be aware that this place is somewhat difficult to find-just keep asking people on the street for directions. Daily 1 PM-midnight $$. Most major credit cards. 32 Jeddah St. (Mohandiseen). Phone 335-3273.
Tuscany-This restaurant is popular with nearly everyone: The fabulous service, great food and convivial atmosphere are perfect for business dinners, romance or even a relaxed meal for one. The antipasto bar delivers varied appetizers. After that, try the creamy pastas or lamb with rosemary. Daily 1-4 PM and 6:30 PM-midnight Reservations recommended for dinner on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. Cairo Marriott Hotel (Zamalek). Phone 340-8888.
Nightlife Once a nightlife wasteland, Cairo now has a number of options. Just about every major hotel in the city has a bar and disco. Two stand-outs are the Ambassador Club in the Inter-Continental Hotel Semiramis and Jackie's Joint in the Nile Hilton. For live music, try the Cairo Jazz Club or Windows on the World, which has one of the best views in the city. Nightlife and food often go hand in hand in Cairo. Aladdin and Piano Piano are two very popular restaurant-bars.
BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS
Ambassador Club-A posh bar with subdued lighting. Lunch is served daily, snacks are served nightly. Daily noon-2 am, Corniche el-Nil (downtown in the Intercontinental Hotel Semiramis). Phone 355-7171.
Cairo Cellar-After 10 PM you can barely hear your companions in this lively restaurant-bar, which is jammed most nights. Lawyers, engineers, computer specialists and secretaries all converge at this place. Fantastic long bar, top-quality steaks. Daily noon-3 am. 22 Taha Hussein St. (Zamalek, in the President Hotel). Phone 341-6751. Deals-A tiny, raucous pocket pub, a favorite haunt of Cairo's British expat community and wayward diplomats. Excellent bar food, fun music. Sayyed el-Bakry Street (Zamalek, near the Cairo Marriott Hotel). Phone 341-0502.
Deals 2-Younger, more sophisticated brother to Deals. Darker and more stylish than the original, with good Italian food, great bar menu and jazzy interior. Music by the deejay is a bit loud for easy conversation, but the casual, hip ambience is very comfortable. Gol Gamal Street (Mohandiseen). Phone 305-7255.
Harry's Pub-A very attractive British transplant, as witnessed by the high bar stools, draft beer and equestrian prints. The food is so-so, but the pub has an appealing youthful staff and karaoke regulars. A great meeting place. Daily noon-2 am (last order at 1:30 am). Gezira Street (Zamalek, in the Cairo Marriott Hotel). Phone 735-8888.
Taverne du Champs de Mars-This turn-of-the-20th-century bar was brought over piece by piece from Belgium and rebuilt. It has a European charm no other pub in Cairo can match. A preferred hangout for Cairo's ultra-discreet gays, it's also a favorite with the straight crowd. Minimum charge is £E 15.25 per person. Daily 11 am-1 am. Nile Hilton Hotel, Corniche el-Nil (downtown, near Tahrir Square). Phone 578-0444.
DANCE CLUBS/NIGHTCLUBS
Crazy House Disco-The disco component of this members-only club opened to much drunken fanfare from Cairo's glitterati. The scene has simmered down a bit, however. Loud dance music, house dancers, crazy decor and full bar-all in a very Western-style disco ambience. Short-term or one-night VIP memberships available for visitors; call for prices, 1 Salah Salem Rd. (in the Cairo Entertainment Center). Phone 366-1082.
Jackie's Joint-This perennially popular club remains one of the hottest spots in town. A deejay spins international dance and chart favorites most nights. Door policy changes frequently; call to check beforehand if it's to be couples only. Must be age 21 or older. Glamour dress. Daily 9:30 PM-4 am. Corniche el-Nil (downtown in the Nile Hilton). Phone 578-0444.
Saddle-A popular disco in the pyramids area. Pyramids Road, Giza (in the Mena House Oberoi Hotel). Phone 383-3222. LIVE MUSIC Aladdin-Arabic music and belly dancing at this popular restaurant complement the delicious Lebanese specialties and the wonderful views of the Nile. Live tahkt (traditional Middle Eastern band) music begins at 8 PM, followed by a belly dancer around 10:30-11:30 PM Daily 8 PM-midnight (also open 1-4 PM for lunch). Dinner and show cost about £E 77. Most major credit cards. Galaa Square, Giza (in the Cairo Sheraton Hotel). Phone 336-9700 or 336-9800.
Cairo Jazz Club-Live jazz nightly in a lounge bar atmosphere. Food is inexpensive but mediocre. Cover charge of £E 7.50 per person. Call for current schedule. Reservations recommended for special shows and on weekends. 197 26th of July St. (Agouza). Phone 345-9939.
Piano Piano-If you want to mingle with Cairo's rich and famous, this restaurant/piano bar is the place to go. The long, long bar with its Nile views is usually packed. There's a small, intimate dance floor. Daily 8 PM-2 am. Reservations required if you're dining. 1191 Corniche el-Nil (Maspero in the World Trade Center). Phone 574-9556.
Windows on the World-This is one of Cairo's premier bars for stunning views. You see a big chunk of the Nile and-on a clear day-the pyramids far in the distance. Go before sunset for daytime observation, then stay until dark to watch the city's lights twinkle. (Take along a camera.) Minimum charge is £E 38 per person. Daily (except Wednesday) 4 PM-2 am. Live music starts at 10 PM-usually a singer with a cover band doing all sorts of international favorites. Corniche el-Nil (in the Ramses Hilton Hotel). Phone 575-8000.
ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES
Belly Dancing-Although belly dancing is considered decadent by most of the staunchly Muslim Egyptians, the shows remain popular with tourists and visiting Arabs. The best belly dancer in Cairo is Fifi Abdou, who performs at Le Meridien Hotel. Call the hotel for details and reservations. Also look for Dina, Cairo's second-most famous dancer and, arguably, the most beautiful. She dances Tuesday and Sunday at the Intercontinental Hotel Semiramis' Horoun el-Rashid nightclub. The Marriott's Nile Maxim dinner cruise also features excellent dancers.
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