| MASTING and RIGGING NOTES page 1 This part of the web page is still under CONSTRUCTION and will be modified as the boat is tested. This is an experimental sail rig for this hull and will need to be modified as time goes by. It is a Gaff Rig instead of a Lateen and this means a complete change in the rig. Paul J. Heyse of Ulta Sail designed the Gaff Rig for my boat to fit my needs due to my lack of mobility. If this is the design you are looking for, sails can be bought from Ulta Sail. If it is not what you want contact Paul at Ulta Sail he may have a version with larger sails. MAST The Mast is 2 �� X 2 �� X 14� D-Fir. I used a 1 �� round over bit to round over the mast starting 49 �� from the base. This left me with square sides to fit in the mast box and to fasten the gooseneck to. I then finished rounding the top of the mast into a half ball and relieving all sharp edges with a 1/4'� round over bit. MASTHEAD I used a simple spreader plate to keep the side stays from rubbing the mast. I made mine from 1/8� stainless steel or you can buy one from a sailboat supply house. It is best to fasten the stays to the plate with quick-links. A 3/8� welded eyebolt is located 3� from the top of the mast and uses the top hole of the spreader plate and is used to fasten the Fore Stay and the Head Sail halyard block. A 5/16� eyebolt located 6� from top of Mast uses the bottom hole in the spreader plate and is used to hold the Peak halyard block. 6� below the 5/16� eyebolt an eye strap on the backside of the mast is used to hold the Throat halyard block. Some builders forgo the spreader plate and use just the eyebolts. CHAIN PLATES One chain plate and one side stay were added to each side to stabilize the mast. The chain plates (drawing below) are made from 1/8� X 1 1/8� X 7 �� stainless steel and are located 12� aft of the base of the mast on the deck. Once the mast is up a string can be pulled from the masthead to the rub rail where the chain plate is to be located to get the proper angle. Notch out the rub rail and install the chain plate with �� S/S oval head bolts with fender washers and lock nuts. A �� X 3� X 6� partner will have to be installed inside to strengthen the hull. |
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| BOOMS All three booms are cut from Douglas-Fir. I recommend laminating two or more boards together to prevent warping, this is a little more work but is worth it. Some builders choose not to taper the booms but I did taper mine, I think they look better and they are lighter in weight. Main Boom is 1 �� X 2 �� X 105�. I used a �� round over bit in the router table to take off the sharp edges. The end of the Boom next to the Mast may have to be tapered down some so the Gooseneck will fit. The outer 3� can be stepped down to 1� diameter and painted. The rest is varnished. The bottom of the Main Boom is located 32� above the forward deck and is fastened to the mast with a �Goose-Neck�. The boom is longer than necessary so you will have room to rig an outhaul. Gaff Boom is 1 �� X 1 �� X 70�. Leave 8� square on one end to fasten the gaff jaws then round over remaining edges before gluing and fastening the jaws. The outer 3� can be stepped down to 1� diameter and painted. The rest is varnished. The boom is longer than necessary so you will have room for an outhaul. Jib Boom is first cut to 2 �� X 2 �� X 47�, then it is tapered to 1 1/4'� sq. at the forward end. It is then shaped to an octagon with all edges remaining sharp. The very forward 4� is stepped down to 1� diameter and painted. The after end is then trimmed off at a 45 deg. angle. The after end of the boom may need to be trimmed or shimmed where it fastens to the deck. After fitting it can then be varnished. |