Hend

My life in India, 2005-2006

 

9/23/2005

 

Back in Boston, I used to go out every once in a while with my boy Allen, and together we’d lament the fact that every nightspot we went to was filled with guys. As he put it, “I’m pretty sure the world is 80 percent dudes.” Well, I can’t imagine what he would say about this city. I’m not sure if it’s just because women here don’t leave the house as often, or just the combination of places that I’ve been spending my time, but I think no less than 80 percent of the people I’ve seen walking around are men. All joking aside, there’s obviously no way that the figure is 80 percent. But it has to be over 50; I read an article today on the BBC news website that reported that the Indian government is offering free education to all females children in an effort to boost incentives for families to have girls. Meanwhile, my boss just got back from a business trip to Dushanbe, Tajikistan where he asked a few female local community leaders what there most pressing need was. Their answer was not better sanitation, nutrition, or safety. It was men. Civil war nearly decimated a whole generation of Tajik men. Now if we can only get a few busloads of Bangalorean guys over there, everyone would be happy.

……….

 

There is cheese everywhere here, and I don’t mean the physical kind of cheese. Popular Indian culture is just cheesy. The other day I bought some packaged cookies called Dark Fantasy from the grocery store. I bought them mostly because I thought they’d taste good (they’re pretty much the same thing as Oreos), but I also just wanted to buy a product called Dark Fantasy. Anyway, inside the box was also a card with this description:

 

Dark Fantasy. An exquisite offering for the connoisseur of cookies. The richest of chocolate vanilla biscuits inspired by the Master Chefs of ITC hotels. Created using carefully chosen premium ingredients for a sensory experience unlike any other. More than a cookie… Dark Fantasy is a luxury in aromatic cocoa and vanilla. Bite into the outer crust made of the darkest finest cocoa and you’ll discover why cocoa is called “theobroma cacao” literally translating into “The Food of the Gods”. And within… delightfully smooth vanilla cream that melts in your mouth. Together – an unforgettable duet whose taste will linger in your mouth. An indulgence for your most special moments. Dark Fantasy from Sunfest. Indulge.

 

Brother, they are Oreos. Anyway one product that uses similar marketing is the Chaat Street line of potato chips from Lay’s. Bags of these types of chips are everywhere, and I must say they are delicious. Basically, the Lay’s people tried to capture the taste of chaats, a traditional Indian snack that is crunchy, in a potato chip. Anyway, here is what’s written on the back of the bag:

 

Lay’s brings you a delicious new range of authentic chaaty flavours for the first time in potato chips. As you open a bag of Lay’s Chaat Street chips, a delicious aroma of fresh chaat wafts out. Taste these chips and let your senses take you to Chaat Street, a romantic, friendly, colourful place!

 

Holy cow, put me on the next plane to Chaat Street. Don’t ask me how potato chips can be romantic. Obviously you’ve never even been to Chaat Street so you wouldn’t understand.

 

Cheese is not to be flouted here. Indian movies are a great example. Every punch or kick is accentuated with a “psssht!” sound, every critical moment highlighted with the camera’s zooming in swiftly on an actor’s serious face, and every cause for celebration marked by spontaneous bhangra dancing. But who cares? What’s so wrong about these cheesy guilty pleasures? If everyone lives with cheese, there should be no embarrassment. That’s why Chaat Street is such a romantic, friendly, and colorful place. It’s also because everything there is made of potato chips, but that is not the point.

……….

 

People here are generally kind, and I’ve been impressed by a couple of traditions. First of all, like in a lot of cultures, fellowship and generosity is best expressed by offering food. I have no complaints about this. Recently my boss and his wife, who are Malayalis from Kerala, invited all the PAF employees (four of us) to their home for lunch. The occasion was Onum, a holiday marking the harvest that’s celebrated in Kerala. The food was great, and for the first time I successfully ate wet gravy-ish things with my hand (using both hands is considered rude because one has to be used to wash your backside), and off a plantain leaf nonetheless. It was just such a nice gesture, but one that really isn’t that unusual. Whenever someone in the Public Affairs Center has some reason to celebrate, they buy a cake or something of that nature and share it with everyone in the building. Similarly, I’ve learned that on kids’ birthdays, it’s common for them to go around handing candy to all their friends. These are some of the more heartwarming aspects of the culture here.

 

But in other ways, people here seem very cold on the outside. Maybe it’s just because of the crowds, but someone can bump into you walking by and not even acknowledge that you were there. And the use of pleasantries is really limited, at least in English. In the morning when I wake up and say good morning to my host mother, who’s usually awake preparing breakfast, her response is often “hah”, which can be used to express almost anything (it works really well to say “Oh, is that right?”). Furthermore, when you receive a phone call and hear the initial “This is so-and-so”, the usual next line is, “Hah, tell me.” No “how are you”, not even a hello. And when the conversation is over, it’s pretty normal to just hang up. For instance, I could say, “Ok, so I’ll see you at 8,” and the next person could just say “ok” and hang up. Lastly, and maybe this is unique to my office, it’s not only acceptable for one’s cell phone to ring in a meeting, but it’s perfectly normal to actually answer the phone and start talking. This, more than anything, blew my mind. In any case, it’s not like Bangaloreans are jerks. But they certainly have different ways of showing kindness and respect.

……….

 

Bangalore’s climate is fantastic, easily the best part about living here. According to what I’ve gathered, the temperature will range from 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit over the course of the year. Other places in South India are oppressively hot, but because of Bangalore’s elevation it’s much cooler. Sometimes it’s actually chilly in the morning, and you will see people with scarves, hats, or jackets (even though it’s really not that cold). But this produces an interesting phenomenon, which is the occasional baby in a hat or ski mask. I will try my hardest to get a photo of a baby in a ski mask before I leave. I have seen this at least two times, both of which the voice of Tupac rang out in my head with the lyrics “Babies in ski masks screamin’ thug life every time they pass!” It’s only a matter of time before I start having nightmares that ski mask clad gun-toting infants are coming to get me.

……….

 

The sweets in Bangalore are delicious, and it seems like South India has a surprisingly rich tradition of desserts. Right now I am eating something called ladu (I think that’s what it’s called) which is made of tapioca and raisins. A lot of the sweets here have rosewater in them, including this one. Iranians use a lot of rosewater, but I always hated the taste as a kid. Ironically, it took a trip to India for me to start warming up to the flavor.

 

 

previous entry

next entry

 

back

home

 

email me

 

Hosted by www.Geocities.ws

1