Canopy Hinges
updated May 29, 2005
In deciding how to design my canopy hinge, I borrowed heavily from Mark Langford and John Martindale.  I used Mark's Beatle hinge design, but moved them out to the fuse sides for added stability like John did.
I first developed templates for the hinges and squeezed them onto a square foot of 0.25" 7075 Aluminum. After cutting out the pieces, I cut lightning holes and polished them up. Here are the hinges.
I wanted to beef up the fuse sides where the hinges will mount.  Again, I used an Oak/Spruce laminate. I shaped the wood to fit perfectly.  The compound angles allow for vertically and horizontally square mounting of the hinge bracket. Here is the dry fit.
I dry fitted the hinges to see how much wood I would need to add to the canopy frame.
Here, I floxed the bracket to the fuse.  Notice, I countersunk the bracket for bolts, but have yet to install them.  The flox is super strong but I will add the bots.
Next, I filled around the joint with spruce gussets.
Next I drilled the spruce for bolts and countersunk some blind nuts.  Note the straw that I used to surgically apply the flox to the nuts without getting in the threads.
Here is the test fit of the spruce with the hinges.  So far, so good.
I glued a triple layer of 5/8" spruce cut to fit.
I stuffed some scrap foam in the holes to protect the blind nut threads from any epoxy runs. 
Here are the hinges installed.
In testing, the hinges work perfectly, very smooth.
I ordered the same gas struts as Mark and here is what I got in the box.  Note I ordered 4 of the threaded ball joints and 2 ball joints pre-mounted to the angle.  However, I decided to only use the threaded ones.
I installed some threaded brass nuts into the Oak/Spruce blocks in the frame and on the fuselage sides.
Here is the ball joint installed.
As you can see, open and close motion works great.  The canopy is very strong and I can take comfort in knowing that a strong gust will not rip it from it's hinges.
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