Approach: Follow
the trail up Tenaya Canyon past Mirror Lake to the point where
it reaches the bridge over Tenaya Creek. At the bridge, follow
the faint remains of the old CCC trail along the north side of
Tenaya Creek and up Snow Creek to the base of the falls. Rope
up at the boulder pool at the base of the slabs. (1.25 hrs from
Upper Pines Campground)
Description: The route follows nearly continuous exfoliated flake/corner
systems about 50 feet to the left of the falls for 11 pitches.
(1) Begin at the boulder pool at the base of the slabs and follow
a small traversing arch immediately to the left of the creek,
belaying at a small cedar tree (5.7). (2) Continue along another
long traversing arch past fixed pins, manteling up to the belay
at an oak tree (5.8). (3) and (4) Two pitches traverse easy slabs,
ending at a belay at a big dead tree stump (4th class). (5) Traverse
to small cracks and climb up easy slabs to a big ledge near a
pool at the base of a small waterfall (5.7). Eat lunch here. (6)
Unrope, cross to the other side of the creek, scramble up the
right of the little falls and then cross back to another pool
at the base of a wall to the left of a long waterfall. Belay at
a small ledge 10 feet above the pool (3d class). (7) Climb flakes
and cracks to a right-facing dihedral, belaying at its top (5.8).
(This is the crux pitch.) (8) Walk up easy slabs past a brushy
oak and climb an easy ramp to a belay at a cedar tree (4th class).
(9) Continue up the ramp/corner to its end, then downclimb an
awkward crack to the right, placing protection for the follower.
Climb up and right, either on runout slabs or traversing under
a flaring roof to a belay at a small cedar tree growing in a pothole
("The potted pine tree belay") (5.8). (Save your #4
Camalot for the roof if you want pro for this part of the pitch.)
(10) Continue up the dihedral, belaying at a cedar tree at a sandy
ledge. (5.6). (11) Continue up the dihedral to the top, wishing
the slabs to the right were bolted so that you didn't have to
follow the dirty, vegetated crack to the left (5.7). Pro good.
Pro to 5".
Descent: At the end of the route, thrash up and left on third
class ledges to the Snow Creek trail. (2 hours to Upper Pines
Campground)
Notes: The climbing is generally easy and not particularly stimulating,
with only about 50 feet of 5.8 on the whole route. The pleasure
in the climb lies in its proximity to the falls and the remote
beauty of Tenaya Canyon, with great views of Half Dome. This route
may only be possible in the fall, when the water is low. The Snow
Creek Slabs route described in the Roper guidebook at page 163
lies 100 or so feet to the left of this route and offers similar
easy climbing. Above and to the right of the end of the route
is a mermaid pool below yet another falls, offering a well-deserved
chance for a refreshing dunk. The roaring you hear is from the
Tyranasourus Rex colony in the jungled canyon further up the creek.
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