Indian Rock Video Project
Jugs Overhang is the slightly overhanging wall just around the corner to the right of The Pit. (See Map 1.) This is one of the most popular parts of Indian Rock, possibly because of the wide variety of holds. Consequently, there has been quite a bit of development. And, beside the large number of problems, the popularity has yielded a strong oral heritage. This is evidenced by many of the individual holds being named. Of course, these names are not stable, as is frequently the case with oral traditions, with new generations creating new traditions. I have attempted to use only those more stable names, as I understand them.
The problem referred to as Jugs, is simply the all-holds variation up the overhang. There are good holds leading more than halfway up the wall. Then there is a blank section. Fortunately, the holds above this blank section are also quite good. Work up the lower section until your hands are on the good holds more than halfway up. Bring your feet up, left on the big block on the left, right on a small hold on the right. Crank up and reach. Tall people can reach directly to the good horizontal hold, called the Bar, on the lip of the overhang (as shown on the video). Most people reach the curved hold, called the Ear, a little lower and to the right, before moving up to the Bar. While this is a long reach, and intimidating, it is fairly easy and has been done by people shorter than 5'2". A crash pad is useful, but a good spot even more important. Fortunately, above the Bar, there are numerous good holds that allow you to top out or to traverse left around the corner and down Transportation.
Jugs is sometimes called Peg Board. But Peg Board is actually
a significant variation, sufficiently different to warrant its
own name. Peg Board is the no-feet variation on Jugs. If you've
got the guns, simply "campus" the Jugs handholds up
to the Bar, and down again.
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