Indian Rock Video Project
Ernie's is one of the eliminate problems on Jugs Overhang, the slightly overhanging wall just around the corner to the right of The Pit. (See Map 1.) It starts with a left hand lieback on a rounded vertical hold with a small thumb catch, above the block on the left. The right hand starts in the bottom of a small corner-shaped hold on the face below the jugs in the middle of the face. The traditional left foothold on the side of the block broke off some years ago. Now the usual left foothold is the edge of the block, although it has been done using a tiny hold on the side of the block or with the knob lower on the side of the block. Interestingly, getting into position to start the problem is probably the crux.
Once in position, pull and rock up onto the left foot. Reach up with the left hand to the edge on the face above the block. This edge is called Ernie's hold. Move your right foot up and reach with the right to the small edge below the Bar. Taller people can simply bump up to the Bar (as shown in the video) or go to the Bar in the first place. Shorter people will need to move their feet up before bumping the right hand to the Bar. From there one can use the good holds above to top out, or traverse left around the corner and down Transportation.
A variation called Ernie's Direct goes directly to the small
edge below the Bar (thus that hold is called Ernie's Direct hold)
with the left hand. Then match, move your feet up, and bump to
the Bar.
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