Clayoquot Sound
The Pacific Rim information Centre is right at the junction of the highway between Ucluelet and Tofino, the towns that service Clayoquot Sound on the west side of Vancouver Island. It's the very western-most edge of Canada. According to staff, Tofino wins the beauty contest. The rocky, crag-filled coastline with its multiple islets and jagged topography is indeed captivating, especially under sunny skies.
Tofino is also busier than Ucluelet, with hostel beds booked far in advance. However, if accommodation is not a worry, there are many things to do and see. One breathtaking adventure is to see the coastline from a seaplane, such as those from Tofino Air. Charters cost about $400. However, for lone passengers or couples, there's always a chance to tag along for a much lower fee if a plane is picking up passengers from a lcoation such as Hot Springs Cove. In my case, the price is just under $100, as I'll be sharing a ride with four people.
While waiting for the plane, or after the ride, passengers can have a snack right next to the harbour at the Sea Shanty Restaurant. The view is the best in Tofino. Apparently people line up at the door to see the sunset on the terrace. Service is very friendly; as long as the sun isn't setting it won't be too crowded. The restaurant serves local brews, such as Vancouver Island Lager, which has a hint of berry in it: light and clear.
A seaplane has got to be the absolute best way of seeing the Vancouver Island coastline. It's a one-of-a-kind experience, worth every penny, even with a $400 price tag. The plane hangs low enough to catch every detail of the landscape but is high enough to offer the perfect panorama. The landing on the water is satisfyingly dramatic. In all, the ride to and back from the hot springs takes an hour, including the stop.Tofino itself is B.C.'s first United Nations Biosphere Reserve. As such, there are eco-tours available as well as whale and bear watching, in addition to the usual ocean activities such as sea kayaking and fishing.
Several campgrounds dot the road from the Highway 4 turnoff to Tofino. In summer, they tend to be booked up, especially during long weekends.
Meanwhile, there are many stunning sunset viewing opportunities. One is on Wickaninnish Beach. The receding tide leaves a reflective coating of water on the sand that mirrors the colours of the setting sun.
There are also a few hostels and cheaper hotels in Ucluelet. C & N Backpackers has beds starting at $25 each, in mixed dorms. Overall, the sleeping and common recreational areas are clean and spacious. For those who wish to stay longer than one night, there's internet access included, a private beach where surfing is possible, and bike and kayak rentals.
The road between the Pacific Rim turn off and Port Alberni has beautiful curves. Fog lends a mysterious air to the ancient trees. It lifts gently to surround the mountains in a capelet of cloud.
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