Sri Lankan Diary
Home,
Link volunteers August 2002 (well most of them).
30/08/02 - Hello all I have arrived safely in Sri Lanka and it's quite strange and also quite nice being a minority. In Colombo everyone would stare at those strange white people, some would even wave or try to shake our hands. The whole situation is quite surreal. My flight was fine, I got everywhere on time with no hick-ups. I am in Kandy at the moment and all ready have three people chat to me and try to take me to a Kandian dance. The only one to ask me for money though was a chap I caught throwing stones at water snakes. He said he was a taught at the Buddhist temple and eventually asked me for money for the disabled children at the temple. Anyway tomorrow I go to Hewadiwela and combat my struggle. I've been told that Father Eric is very nice, his wife is has limited English and the school teacher is a tyrant similar to Bumble (I think that's his name) from Oliver twist, so volunteers are really needed there for the children. We're dealing with 60 of mixed ability. Also there will be some work down the local Hospital, which suits me. I better go because this costs 3 rupees a minute, where as yesterday it was 20 rupees for 15 minutes. All the Best. Jamie
The gates of my new home.
I've been and settled in my placement and am in Colombo now updating this. I live with Father Eric, and a Theology student called Samantha (he's male) and Sisira, although people often come for visits. Hewadiwala is in the middle of nowhere, near Rambukkana not Kegalle and is slap bang in a tropical garden jungle. The father is really funny and crazy. I've discovered that we are expected to play with nursery children for 45 minutes every morning (they don't move or do anything so Craig and I are moving them and singing non-stop) then we have 2 45 min lessons in the afternoon, but they never bother to tell us which class we have and what their level is, so preparation is somewhat non-existent. So it's quite hard teaching, but really easy and relaxed living. We were told we weren�ft going to start teaching till Monday so we started playing rugby with the boys who arrived early. After 1 hour of non-stop running in the blazing hot weather we went back to the house only to be told we had to conduct 1 hour and a half of lessons. Oh brother. All else is good, went to a rugby match this weekend. The Clifford Cup final. Kandy beat the army 25-19. I've got a film in to be developed so I will try my best to get some online so you can see the really beautiful scenery.
From left; Sisira, Father Eric and Samantha.
Well here I am another weekend in Kandy and another rugby experience. Last week gave me a hairy night but I'll keep that quite cause I doubt my sponsors would approve, just contact someone from my mailing list to find out more. Well new news, I think Jamie may be a girls name here or a name that sounds similar to them cause someone told us their sister was called Jamie and people can all say it and laugh and sound like they are taking the piss. I forgot my pictures so I', sorry there but I'll try and remember next time. The rugby was good, met a local called Mike Johnston who owns a shop at the Kandy Market and said I should visit him and he's see me ok and tell me about Kandy and what to do and where to go. Can't think of much else to say, the teaching is still hectic although coming along, I did the Present Continuous with my Grade 11 and that seemed to work, I'm still testing the other classes capabilities. I'm not looking forward to next week, we have to teach the teachers and staff, we'll wait and see.
Rugby training, but where's the ball?.
Well a quick trip to Colombo and I'm waiting for Nigel to arrive with my Passport and Visa. In less than 1 hour I shall be a resident of Sri Lanka. Yesterday we had our class in the small parish 30-minute walk away on the other side of the Paddy fields. There we have 50 children aging from 5 to 16, we did a good mixed class then played Rounders with them afterwards for 1 hour, using a stick as the bat. The girls just sat watching saying 'Mr Jamie Come here.' I then look at them and they say 'Mr Jamie please come here.' It's all good; we even got an escort half the way home. I again forgot the pictures, but I may not bother, it's just too much work and my Sinhala isn't good enough to ask for a scanner. I've picked up a few words. Enam. Jamie
Our Tuesday visit.
19/09/02 - I've just realised I've been forgetting to date the updates, I shall start again now. Well it's the next day from last time I wrote and I've been to my first Cricket match (only a day one). England thrashed Zimbabwe. Stayed my first night in a YMCA (I got the cheap fan-less room, but slept surprisingly well in the head and without a sheet), and used my first squat toilet (a surprisingly easy and nonhorrific experience, although one can't dwell there for long or read New Scientist). My first Poya day is tomorrow and I think the guys from St Johns may come through for the serenity of Hewawidela. I also bought my fist Sri Lankan soap 'LifeBouy' and was forced to eat a KFC yesterday (I hope I can be forgiven). We actually went to the parcel offices and saw all the outward bound parcels, most of them were full of life chicks in a tiny box, it was a kind of strange sensation seeing it.
My bedroom.
28/09/02 - Well another weekend off. Another weekend in Colombo. The week went well for teaching, Craig and my partnership is coming along nicely. We have more or less settled on Grammar with Grade 11, aimless games with grade 1 & 2 and role play for the expert class. We still have to sort out the middle ages and the Symbalangamuwa (check spelling) class we teach every Tuesday, which has all ages, 5-16. Still no problems, and still enjoying every moment of it. I can tell be the children's faces. the way they run up to me before class and shout their grade number in the hope we're teaching them and the fact they all fought to hold my hands and kept buying me ice lollies and sweets on the trip to Anuradhapura that the appreciate my being there.
Buddhist Temple Anuradhapura.
7/10/02 - Well I've had complaints from the one person who checks my site, my dad. I've been really busy and am still really busy, but the computer seems to be working so I'll give writing a shot. You see ever since the monsoon started, big electrical problems. The first weekend of rain all the power went off from Friday to Monday and so did all the water so we were drinking and washing from the well in the jungle, down a mud path. Anyway that was a long time ago so what has been happening with my classes, well they have been going well and bad. When ever I plan and plan a lesson, I fall tight on my arse and it doesn't work (imagine trying to teach 25 children aged 4-10 Three Blind Mice) and when I turn up unprepared I have a dancer. I'm still much appreciated, we're taken on another advanced class except certain pupils are coming to more than one so we have more lessons to prepare. Link is coming next Tuesday to see how I�m doing. The worst possible day to come in my opinion, it�s our usual night away. I managed to get a sports lesson in, and the rugby team are now able to throw a ball, I�m still working on them. Very few kids at the nursery today so we made fish with them (to complement a song we are teaching them) and I made a huge squadron of planes out of logo. Better go because I'll probably loose this. All the best. Jamie
The craft lesson.
25/10/02 - We had our Link visit on Tuesday they were very pleased with the project and the work that we are doing, there are no problems and Father said he is really happy with our work. On the Monday I returned after a pleasant weekend in Negombo (an old Dutch sea fort), which I spent with some very good friends that we shall not go into, unless you ask me nicely (and I�m not going to tell you the embarrassing incident with the, what I thought was, a shallow puddle, my foot and then my knee). Craig said he'd be at the project and would take care of the class preparation. I got back and no Craig. I frantically threw a class together, took the class (it went well) and returned very tired to the Mission House. Craig didn�t come all night. The following morning Andrew, Nigel and Clare came for the Link visit and whom should they bring not only Craig but also Chloe from Talawa. As it turned out Ben (after his mum said he had a natural immunity) a got chicken pox and was in Mount Lavinia hiding in a guesthouse. Craig told me he had to go back and keep him comfortable and I was to stay and take the classes. So there you have I�m just finishing my week of solo run, and it�s gone fine I think. Had about 3 good classes, which is enough. No classes this Saturday because we are off to Kurunegala for a service, I think it's a memorial for the former Bishop. Other than that life here is as normal as life gets. I now have my own cup (it�s called Jamie�s Lion Lager Glass) and father gives me Lion Lager and milk in it every morning. I don�t really feel like writing but I feel my minions deserve it.
Link Visit: From left; Andrew, Fth Eric, Nigel Claire, Chloe, Jamie, Priyan.
22/11/02 - Sorry for the delay! I haven�t been to the city for a while and here's why; Ben from St John's came down with very bad chicken pox so had to be isolated for 11 days but needed company and a sort of nurse to fetch lunch etc. To prevent a placement collapsing Craig was sent to do this job leaving David in Kegalle and me in Hewadiwela. The 11 days soon turned into 18 but now everyone is reunited although Ben's scabs have come off and he is covered in pink blotches and is still not allowed to teach. Lots of other enjoyable things happened but you'll probably find them boring like this email because its the experience that was good not reading about it. I'll save the others for stories when I return unless I get a plethora of requests. This is straight out of my personal, private diary so you should feel lucky.
"9/10/02 - Screw this writing concise. I had just about my best day here so lets hope I can write as much detail as possible. Well I had my first night sleeping right through. I think from the back of 9 till 6am when I got up and Father hadn't made the tea yet, so I took it as my duty. For breakfast I made two toasties, lovely marmite and marge, got washed and went up to the Nursery for my half hour morning class. I said to Dewie that we would do a Scottish dance, Gay Gordons.' The first task was to get Dewie to understand the dance. She kept on getting confused with when you went forwards or backwards. Some of the kids were good and got the turn down to a T. Others just leaped around looking like ballerinas. We spent a good 90 minutes walking forward 1, 2, 3, 4, turning, and backwards 1, 2, 3, 4. I then showed Dewie that there was more to the dance and demonstrated the girls spinning round for 8 beats. Dewie pondered this and said 'No! 4 enough. Small [meaning the kids].' So I pointed out that the music was a lot faster then how we were walking through. We played the music and she said, 'Too fast.' She pointed to the American Dance on track on the tape. I suggested the Canadian Barn Dance and her face lit up (the project is funded by Canadians), so I found the Strathspey and we danced the Canadian Barn Dance.
By this time we had whittled the children down to 6 couples and I got to dance with Dewie. (I also danced a couple of Gay Gordons with her. I could sense she wasn't sure about things, especially the ballroom clasp. I hadn't been sure how that would be welcomed, a hold like that can look quite intimate, to the unknowing eye, and males and females don�t behave like that in this country). In any case even with my constant corrections Dewie managed to teach the kids her own version of the Canadian Barn Dance where they stand in two lines and dance it. There is no progression. It's close enough for me, and looks quite good. I spent most of the time dancing the dance and doing the Highland Fling to amuse the kids and CCFC staff. Not one of the staff would dance with me. At about 11:30 (remember I started at 9:30) we did the Hokey Cokey with the other kids, these are our two pieces for the end of year show. Dewie asked me what they would wear. I ran to the house and got the tartan pictures, my photos and the Scottish postcards and explained that we could make tartan sashes out of paper and showed the different possible designs. Also at this break I got a cup of plain tea (as usual) and but Dewie and the other teacher (I don�t know her name but she understood the dances better than Dewie) got hot water. I don�t know if they prefer that or Craig and I are special but the cooks had tea.
Montessori teachers; Shiromala and Dewi.
Well I went back to the house and got changed, no power, but I stupidly went to use the computer. It didn't work so I watched the Kindergarten dance, the ones who weren't dancing came to the window and would shout 'Uncle,' try and grab me and follow me to every window I went to. They stopped dancing and most were sitting down (teachers break) except for a few boys who were trying to do cartwheels. I ran in and did a perfect cartwheel. Dewie asked me to do it again so I did followed by a handspring then an impeccable handstand. They all clapped, even the staff. I went back to the Mission House to eat because I soon had to leave for Syimbalanganmuwa. Samantha told me to wait for the beef curry we had been promised. We went to investigate and there was none. I ate vegetable noodles and it was, as Dad would say, 'Gorrrrrrrrjusss' then left for Syimbalanganmuwa. On the way I met various people, but not the school kids I usually see. One guy came out of his house, asked where I was going and then to borrow 10 rupees. I told him bluntly that I was here to teach for 6 months for no pay and had nothing on me because I was on my way to class. That he accepted and let me go, I wouldn't have given him money even if I had any, the chancer.
Montessori eating lunch.
The classes I taught were enjoyable but rubbish. None of the usual teachers were there except one to open up, with poor English, so I had to teach both classes. I started the young ones off copying some animals from the board and ran to the elders with Craig�s prepared lesson for the Link visit. His lesson, to put it nicely, was ARSE, and he had done it all before. It was meant to be new and for the Link people. I started it and made up new examples. Ran back to the young ones, still working. Then with the older ones went onto identifying he, she it, they etc. i.e. the bus stops = it stops. Back through and 4 more animals on the board. The olds ask to sing One finger, one thumb; so I agree but none sing or do the actions, it's just me. What's the point? Back through, still copying. Back through teach them 'Mr Craig is a Bunion.' They copy it but refuse to sing. I change it to 'Mr Jamie.' Still nothing. 'Ruwan' No! Back through sing '1 finger, 1 thumb' the littles enjoy it, sing and do actions. Back through, end class, get my tea, all is fine!
I change into my shorts and am looking forward to playing cricket but they have no ball. One boy comes to me and says, 'Mr Jamie you chase us.', 'What all of you?(55)' Yes!' so I do. Suddenly 'Mr Jamie we catch you.', 'What all of you' 'Yes' so I run chased by 55. It's not long before I get caught and the cycle goes round 3 or 4 times. I am so knackered I can hardly stand and feel so faint. I chase on boy and do a spectacular diving tackle on him then say I need a seat. I�m sitting there and someone pushes up my shorts to uncover a long weeping wound 11.8cm (4"). Someone gets a bottle of manky surgical spirit. I dab myself then get up and fake limp to get my bag and leave for Hewadiwela. On the way I meet many people, I�m feeling really faint. One man (the sub-post office master) has good English, talks to me and invites Craig and me to his house one day. I carry on and just before the final leg (through the forest) the heavens open. I start to run and peg it up the steep incline. It�s not long before I�m wet through. I arrive back, wash in the rain and realize my bedroom window is open, luckily it�s only Craig�s stuff that gets wet. I start to write this and Krishan and Brother Dumunda arrive. I talk to them and show them my pics. Claire phones and I have to go to Kandy on Thursday . I lend Brother my waterproofs and eat more of those wonderful noodles.
Washing in the rain.
I�m glad Craig went away, it�s what I needed, I now have more confidence, I have done more and I feel I�ve bonded more with the people around, it was really great."
Paddy fields during Monsoon.
Been so long I have another little bit:
There was excitement when we saw our first snake in the house, it was just a wee one so Craig and I laughed when Father, Samantha and Sisira acted petrified and thought killing it was unnecessary. As it turned out the wee blighter was the most deadly variety of snake in Sri Lanka and has a habit of snaking about at night an biting people as they sleep. There being no anti-venom means your a goner so it was maybe better not having it kicking about. Supposedly the occasionally come in during the rainy season for shelter, I do hope we get no more.
Where my the house is.
There is still more:
Father told me today something that might makes me happy and proud, and might show those who supported me how worthy it was. The people at Syimbalanganmuwa (a neighbouring village also part of the CCFC project but with it�s own church and premises) were telling Father how happy they were about the fun, enjoyment and English Craig and I give their children and that they all really like us. They then asked when we were going and Father told them January and they got very angry saying they didn�t want us to go, Father told them that new volunteers were coming but the villagers want us who they know and have grown to love. It makes you think your doing well when something like that happens. Syimbalanganmuwa is where we teach once a week, I may not have mentioned it, and we walk for 30 minutes through the paddy fields to get there and we teach over 50 children ages 5 to 16. We decided to split the class, I took the 30 youngest and Craig the 25 oldest. My class has now grown to 47, and Craig�s dropped to 14. After the class we play for 1 hour, cricket Elle (Rounders) or tig and then take an adult class to the staff and community afterwards. We stay in a house in the village for the night and it�s a great experience. The church actually needs an extension to accommodate the classes and children learning there. Next year Father is going to start a collection or fund raising to build the new building, he offered to send pictures and a letter to our Scottish churches to ask if they could run a collection, so if anyone wants to help let us know and we�ll see what we can do Next year.
Siyambalangamuwa pupils.
The past month hasn�t been all strawberries and cream last week there was a death. One of the girls from our grade 8 class fell into a well and drowned, she couldn�t swim. At 13 years old it�s a terrible thing to happen and the parents were devastated and the whole centre went to view the body. I also went and found the whole experience rather strange. She was lying there in white robes, so peaceful and with everyone talking in Sinhala all I could do was think about the body and the tragic event and how sad it was for someone so young to die. People here seem to handle death in a more open way, which I think, is better, they don�t pussy foot around it as we do. I don�t know whether it�s because they are wholly more religious or because it�s a regular occurrence are less afraid of it. It was a strange experience to say the least.
The local boys: From left; Ruwan, Meepah, Samantha and Samantha.
30/11/02 - Well placement is closing up for the summer and I�m leaving for my Sri Lanka travelling on the 10th of December. The show is on the 29th of November and from all the preparation that is going on promises to be a lot of fun, just hope my camera works, it�s playing up.
Well some might be happy that my hospital placement finally got arranged and I had to go through to Kegalle today (28th) to politely inform them that I had arranged to be away from placement and couldn�t go back till January. I don�t know how it will work because I only have 10 placement days in Hewadiwela and I would like to spend that time with my kids, I�ve got so attached to them and it�s going to be really heart-breaking to leave them. Especially with the knowledge the Mike Lawson is my replacement. Anyway I was just getting a van back from Kegalle, which was the most packed bus I've been on (not as packed as that one carriage train I got, but pretty chock-a-block), and I got talking to a Sri Lankan man who quickly asked if I spoke any other languages I said French, Spanish and a little Sinhala. He asked if I was fluent in French and proceeded to talk to me for the remainder of the journey in French. He turned out to be a member of the St Peter and St Paul Parish and spend 6 years working in France. It was quite hard and strange talking to a Sri Lankan man on a hot, sticky, crowded Sri Lankan bus in French, but enjoyable all the same.
My camera battery failed so few pictures but I'll try and write a full account and post it up later.
The procession leaders.
04/12/02 - The show was amazing; it started at 3pm and ended at 7pm. Craig and I were part of the important guests and so we were part of the procession that followed the Kandyan Dancers into the hall. At the door a child came to me and presented me with four leaves and then bowed to my feet in the way easterners thank important people. Craig had been asked to represent Scotland in the candle lighting but there were more candles than guests so Father Eric told me to get up and light all the rest. I lit about 6. The show was great and on the whole very professional and performed with little mistakes. The only bad thing was the shrill load voice of one of the hosts and that they got the worst singer in the country to sing all the songs. She ruined �Auntie Monica' Two older lads had a comedy double act between acts and I feel I missed out on their jokes, but we tried to participate as much as we could. The howlers that happened where when in one solo dance they played the wrong track three times. Also in another dance the set of boys ran smack into the line of girls. UI thought the Siymbalangamuwa pieces were the best, except their drama was wasted because no-one could hear it and thus started to talk right through it. I was really pleased when my Siymbalangamuwa class sang '1 Finger, 1 Thumb,' which I had taught them and they added their own touches. I didn�t really understand the costumes, straw hats, but I think they were trying to be western.
One Finger One Thumb.
The interval was after a very long and boring Buddhist Monk�s speech and there were lots of cakes, treats and tea for us important guests. I�m glad I was here to experience the show and next week we have the Nursery�s show. I hope that is as good.
Tamil dance.
I�ve had more fun and experience this weekend. An all expenses paid weekend in the Mahaweli Reach hotel, one of only two 5 star hotels in Sri Lanka. It was amazing, full board for nothing, free massage and sauna, unlimited drinks, and no bill. I really have to thank Teekshana�s father Bob Smith, because it was his contact that owns the hotel and invited me, and I am indebted to him. It was brilliant!!!
Relaxing game of ping-pong.
Yesterday We had our last Siyambalangamuwa class and it was great. There were fewer pupils than usual so we ran the classes together all in the church. Craig's girlfriend�s primary class had made cards for the Hewadiwela children (well actually everyone except me) and I thought maybe Siyambalangamuwa could reply since all our there classes had finished. Anyway they all made lovely cards there are some real artists and it was great. After they had finished we went outside to play. First I played cricket with the boys using a plastic ball and Coconut branch as a bat till I got bowled out then the girls asked me to join their game, soon everyone joined in. The game was called 'Dekah' and was confusing. There were two teams at either side of the grass with a tree as their den. Someone would run out from one team to the middle and get chased by someone from the other team who in turn would get chased by a second person from the first team etc. If you got caught you became a 'Hungah' and had to stay in jail near the opposing team's den and wait to be freed by a team mate. It was good fun. After the adult evening class we went back to the house where we shower (the place we stay won't let us wash there because all they have is a well) and they presented Craig and I with a Sarong each. It was great, they sew them up and made us late for dinner at Thakshila's where we were staying. It was a perfect last day at Siyambalangamuwa but we are hoping and going to try to go back for one more lesson in January.
Fth Eric presenting a prize to and ex-CCFC pupil, now becoming Buddhist Monk.
11/12/02 - I have now left placement for December and I am coping well and having fun. The last day was good. All the Montassori children were there and playing so I got to play with them and say goodbye in my own way then we had a line of children, Montassori and others waving us away as Craig and I drove off with our bags in a tuk-tuk. I also got a chance to give away some of the rugby t-shirts I had brought. I'm not sure if I will keep this updating my travels unless I get lots of requests to do so. What has happened at placement? I will add now things I remember, when I remember. First we shall start with our final days. First there was the Prize giving last Friday, and Craig and I very nearly didn't go because we had been fishing in Colombo. It was good we went because not only were nearly all the children there and I got to present some of the prize, but we got given a pair of Slazeneger shorts each (unfortunately on the small side) to say thank you for all our help. The prize giving was about 3 hours I think and all the Siyambalangamuwa people were there. I think they will miss Craig and I because they were very sad to go when they had to. The next day was the Christmas Lunch and it was not what I had expected, I thought we would eat all the staff together but it was just the normal lay out , just special food and ice cream. We had the Buryani in the Mission house with father as usual. On the Sunday Craig and I both did a reading at both of Father Eric�s Parishes. At the Hewadiwela parish I read from Romans and Craig Luke. We swapped for the other service. It was strange how nervous I got, my legs were like jelly. Not needed when you think that most couldn't understand me. Siyambalangamuwa was easier and I really enjoyed it. On the Monday was the Montassori show, which started 1 hour late because the Buddhist monk never turned up. Again I was a guest and had to work in, got bowed to, and presented with leaves. The show was good lots of work and time had gone into it and the costumes were amazing. It was, however, too long. 5 hours and the children were exhausted. The dance I taught them 'Canadian Barn Dance' went really well and they had been made proper kilts. It was great. For the Hokey Cokey Dewi got me to go on stage and I had to sing it through the microphone. It was a really good day, and as a fairway meal Samantha prepared us vegetable, egg maggi noodles. On the whole a really good farewell week. We also got Christmas presents from father, a towel, sarong and religious ornament each. I was so moved and happy.
Opening number.
16/12/02 - Well I'm not back at placement but a thing did happen that I recon warrants a mention; the adventure that I've just had. Well Yesterday morning we were in the South Coast; Ben, Craig, Chloe and myself. Ben had been ill the previous day and so the three lads were going to stay an extra day to let him recover and Chloe was heading, by bus, to Colombo. Anyway I told the guy that we were staying another night and he said that we couldn't because the room had been booked out. So the three of us decided to head for the Hill country. Our original plan was to head round the south and up the east but we realised the road and busses probably wouldn't accommodate our large bags. We discovered that the was a train from Matara to Kandy that took 7 hours. We headed for that train, Ben and I got a tuk-tuk for Rs150/= and Craig and Chloe Rs230/=. Chloe got her bus as planned and the three of us got the train and being there early we all got seats. The train was on the whole a normal ride to Colombo. As the train left Colombo it started to rain and Ben realised there was a leak above his head. The rain stopped and the journey continued into the night. About 8:30 the train stopped, we didn't know what was going on and assumed it was waiting for a train from Kandy because there is only the one line near Kandy. We sat for 15 minutes and noticed that most people had were taking their backs along the carriage to the front. Finally when it seemed like only a handful were left I asked someone what had happened and he said that the train had broken down and we had to walk 1 km to the next station and bus it to Kandy. We packed up our things and put our water-proof bag covers on, it had started raining. We saw at the front of the train that it had in fact de-railed and was mostly off the line, with the track moved considerably. We were lucky it hadn't gone the other way because that would have resulted in a very large drop indeed. Actually we are lucky we weren�t killed, the speed those trains go. Anyway we walked 1 km and came to a little shop that from it's location must only make it business from train derailments. I bought everyone a sweet and we walked the remaining 400m to the station and into a town that only God knows the name. Luckily we weren't stood long before a luxury Intercity coach came past and we managed to mount first and get a seat in the isle (they had collapsible seats there so know standing). We got to Kandy at about 10:15pm and quick footed it to the Olde Empire where we were staying that locks up at 10. We got there and it was locked but people were still up and let us in. We explained the story and asked if we could be let out for 30 mins to get food. We went out and came back at 11pm and everything was shut up and lights were off. We shouted, rattled the gates and tried to get someone up. No luck! I went round the back and shouted in an open window, luckily a guest was up who rustled up the staff and let us in. Straight to bed I went. It was a good night, mainly because it all worked out. Jamie
Hikkaduwa sun-set.
Well I've been and done the Hill Country! I started in Nuwara Eliya and after a 4-5 hour train ride, standing I went straight to a teas factory where I got two free pots of tea, a tour and some chocolate cake for twenty rupees. It was worth the trip. The plan was to do Horton Plains and World's End the next day, we were assured the weather would be permitting (against our better judgment). Well we got woken up at 5:30am by the driver and whistled out to drive to Horton�s plains getting to see Samba deer on the way. We got to Horton's Plains and I realised that I had forgotten my resident Visa, luckily the driver performed some jiggery pokery and I got in for local price. The workers thought we were mad to go because the morning mist had already lain, but it rose and the views were spectacular. The morning was surprisingly similar to a walk round the Scottish country side, and we were all thinking of home.
Chloe, Ben and Craig looking over little Worlds End.
We got back and decided, through conversations with locals, that this night was the best time to climb Adam's Peak. The first day of the season. We pottered about till 10:30pm when we left and I got maybe 1 hour's sleep in the van before we saw wild boar and the spectacular view of the lights spirally ascending Adam's Peak. We started our climb at about 2 o'clock and traversed the 7200 steps, 2224m to arrive at the top at 5am where we had to sit for a while in the bitter cold until the sunrise. At the sunrise everyone rose to watch it and when the end approached some started carrying objects around above their heads, which people tried to touch. The descent was much quicker because we couldn't stop; if we did our legs quivered like pneumatic drills. The next day was a lazy day, but I didn't sleep till evening and feel I may now be needing my missed night's rest.
Adams Peak.
After that we split paths, Ben and I went to Haputale and Chloe and Craig did their own thing. Our time in Haputale was enjoyable, but there was thick mist on our only full day which we spend in Bandarawela, trying to get to Ella and eventually gave up and did a rail track walk with spectacular views that couldn't be seen for the thick mist. We came back the following day to Kegalle and spent the night in St John's Boys Home. The trip was eventful but if I write a description of every eventful trip I would have no money left. Anyway I am now in Mount Lavinia, going to spend Christmas at Nigel�s and my family are coming through. I'd better say Merry Christmas now, or rather Suba nutilak wewa, in case I don't have time again. Till next time. Jamie
Lovely scenic walk in the beautiful Haputale.
01/01/03 - HAPPY NEW YEAR, Well my family came out for the past week so after a festive time at Nigel�s we went up to Nuwara Elyia to the Golf club for one night where we got kicked out for wearing Sarongs (not really a mix up about booking, but they did tell us off for wearing sarongs). That day we went to Horton�s Plains, and this time it was better, I did it properly and saw worlds end. We also teamed up with a group of Buddhist monks, who enlightened us, they really like violent action films with Arnold Swarzineger and Van Damm and took photo's of us and like to break the rules when they are on trips e.g. running and swimming half naked in reservoirs. I don't blame them they were all under 20 and hadn't seen their family for 5 years (they had come from Nepal to study) so I think it's ok for them to let their hair down.
Our Buddhist friend on Horton Plains.
That night we stayed in another Guest house leaving early in the morning to go to Kandy, we stopped in a Tea factory called Glen Loch and the Peradynia Botanical Gardens and stayed in Peradynia because Kandy was full. That evening we went to watch the Kandyan dancing and it was a good show. The next day early start to Pinnawala to watch orphaned Elephants being fed and bathed, then straight to Hewadiwela for lunch with father Eric. Samantha was in an accident and got lost, only to arrive as we left. We also went for a walk to Siambalangamuwa. We got to Sigiryia Hotel at 8 and ate then to bed for and early rise and trip to Polonnaruwa. Excellent ancient city and a discount for Graham using my ID, I must have changed lots. Brilliant I loved walking through the ruins with monkeys about. Shot of to a Spice Garden and Dambulla Caves on the way back. The next day there was a 9 o'clock ascent of Sigirya rock for the Bentley Boys and mum went shopping then a long drive through thick traffic to arrive at Nigel�s at 9. We saw in the New Year quietly with arrack, whisky, curry and other people's fireworks. Up at 5 the next morning to take the family to the airport, goodbyes and back for a wee nap. All in all an exhausting week!!! I need a rest! Jamie
The family.
02/01/03 - Hello again no more events worth writing here since yesterday but thought I shall tell you all the new plans. If you didn't know I was planning on travelling round Thailand after placement. Everyone else pulled out of that and so I was asked to change my trip to India. As it happens there is the opportunity for me to go to Pune and do some medical related volunteer work. I jumped at the chance and have got my visa etc. bought. I should be great, I got a bit worried though when I saw the travelling needed, I'll be in India for 5 weeks, which is longer than I was going to Thailand for and the trip to Pune is a 42 hour train ride. Hope it all pans out but I don't fancy making the trip alone. I'll keep you posted. Jamie
14/01/03 - I have now left placement and said my goodbyes. Siyambalangamuwa was hard. Our last lesson we changed roles and let the kids teach us songs and dances, it was great fun. They then did a little show of songs Id taught plus other things, and a couple of speeches were made. It was all so moving and they were all so worried that we would go home and forget them. I won't! As we walked to the house we were staying a big group followed us and took a huge detour home, just so they could see as much of us as possible. My girlfriend even turned up with a present and the whole night was quite saddening and hard, 'matta dukai'. The rest of the week at placement I didn't teach but shuttled about the centre having fun with the kids. I don't know if they realised I was leaving them, but it was better because they weren't sad, and I wasn't as sad. The day I left, one of the teachers asked me where I was going and I replied, 'India' and that took her back a bit and was when the teachers realised I was leaving. They waved me on my way and Father gave me a lift to Kurunegala. There I said goodbye to Father, it was easy with his big grinning face and the fact I know I'll see him again after I've been to India. I got the bus to Dambulla where I met Nigel and he took David, Craig, Ben and me to Anuradhapura where we had a free weekend at the Nuwarawewa Guest House (complete with midnight swims) and all for the price of tree planting at Tarawa�s House of Joy. The tree planting was good, it's a new scheme where you sponsor a tree and child from House of Joy for 20 pounds a year and after twenty years the mahogany tree is sold and the 60,000 rupees goes to the home. Well I went and set up the house's new video player and TV (kindly donated by Chloe's father) and it was priceless the expressions of joy on the children's faces. We went and dug about 20 holes with the Sri lankan spades then we gave up because of our blistering hands. The girls said their goodbyes after lunch (which we supplied) and there were tears everywhere. The next day the plan was for us to meet the Bishop for the planting of the trees, but he couldn't make it in time and we headed to Colombo via Sigiriya (to the new 7 star hotel Nigel is landscaping) and Kandy, so 8 hours in the back of a fan with no air conditioning or windows. We were glad to get out. The next day I had to go to go the Indian High Commission to pick up my visa, and did so at 10 and was told to return at 4. Nigel appeared soon telling that Val and Nic had been hit by falling coconuts down south and were in hospital, Val had been out cold. We frantically phoned numbers and emailed to find someone to see them, otherwise I'd have been send from Colombo and finally got someone. I went to pick up my Visa and I've been given a 3 month one, oh well. Also I'm a bit smelly because the water went off yesterday, and sufficient amounts haven't returned for a shower yet. What a pity. So my next move. I fly to Mumbai at midnight on the 16th and then have a four hour bus ride to Pune and the Deep Griha society, where I will be a volunteer for one month. I'm not exactly sure what it will involve but it will be rewarding, there is a lot of poverty and people needing help. The have a website so why not visit it? www.deepgriha.org So until next time. Goodbye.
Nigel drinking at the illicit 'Toddy' house in Anuradhapura.
17/01/03 - Well I have arrived in India with a not very eventful flight that I won't bore you with. I could make a very funny anecdotal story up about mad Germans saying 'Are you going to Poon too, on this wonderful bus?' but I'll leave that as a story to tell. Anyway I've arrived now and shall tell you about things when I've properly started work, or maybe sooner if I get bored. Jamie
18/01/03 - I didn't get bored, but was told that not much volunteer activities happen at the weekends. I've still not found my feet or settled into Indian life, but I haven�t been here long and I'm still half Sri Lankan. I arrived at the Cultural Centre, got given a room then breakfast. During breakfast the only other volunteer appeared (a Danish gentleman with the name of Andrew) and told me that I had the wrong room, I moved but he had disappeared. I roamed around till lunch, which was a nice rice, curry and chapatis although there wasn't enough chilli (I said so and now I get more, but still not enough) and observed the different way these Indian eat. They take a little bit of each curry and eat it separately, picking it up with the chapatis, they then move on to the rice and take a little, then a little of one of the curry, mix it up, eat it and so on. Very different to the Sri Lankan big plate of rice, little bit of every curry at the side and take little bits of each and mix all together. After lunch I was asked if I wanted to go to the Deep Griha Family Welfare Centre, They assumed I'd say no and sleep, I jumped at the chance and jumped in the vehicle and met Dr Onawale who took me to the Centre, gave me to a man called Vijay and he showed me all the cr�ches, who were having their naps. I then had to wait for a group of old New Zealand Guides who were being shown the projects, in the hope of funding, and a joined their group in the tour of the slums and the Nursery classes their. The slums were typically Indian in their Bizarreness, it's surprising how much India is like what you'd think India would be like, completely different to Sri Lanka (which was a surprise) but exactly what I thought India would be like before I went to Sri Lanka. It was also amazing to see how happy and smiling all the Slum children were in their Nursery class, makes you wonder how we can get sad or upset about things when people who have nothing, like them, can appear so happy. Back to the centre and a group talk with Dr Onawale and I almost fell asleep, not through boredom but lack of sleep. I had a couple of cups of tea to perk me u then met Rev. Onawale and we all went back to the Cultural Centre. There I had my first shower since Sunday (Nigel had a water crisis at his house, meaning no one except him and his van could be washed) and it was with hot water. Yes we have hot water here and a washing machine and a colour TV with over 50 channels. It would be a perfect place for a group of people, pity there is only 2 and I'll only have about 2 days with the new Link Volunteers. Dinner was the same as lunch but with different curries and I got chapatis. I forgot to mention there is a little kitten, saved from death's door a week ago, here called Napoleon who is great fun but I haven�t managed to play with him today. I watched a bit of Demolition Man then went to bed.
The next day I got up and it's a bit of a do-it-your-self breakfast so now curry, but cereal and toast and there is no tea waiting for me (something I miss from father). This place is very cool in the morning, heats up for the afternoon the cool in the evening, not half as hot as Sri Lanka. I hardly sweat. At 9:15 we went to the Family Welfare Centre (Tadiwala) and the on to the City of Child (a kind of heaven type place where they plant crops for the community to tend, then sell for profit that goes into the community). They have chickens, goats, onion, maize, aloe vera and more growing there and are building Schools and houses etc. it looks brilliant. We then went back and visited another slum (more like Sri Lankan this one) where there was a Cr�che and a lot of building going on. There they are building a clinic. By the time we got back to Tatya Tope (Cultural Centre) it was too late to start anything new at Tadiwala and we'd missed lunch. I had a little bit of toast then came to check my emails and it's only 15 rupees an hour here. Fantastic plus you get your seventh hour free! So I had dinner more chilli, but not enough then watched Mad Max beyond Thunder Dome and went to bead to the sound of Indian Drumming across the road. This morning I watched a little basketball and read. The place is great, but I have the feeling it won't be as enlightening to a new culture as Hewadiwela was, I'm really just a westerner in India here. Over and out. Jamie
Cultural Centre staff eating lunch..
22/01/03 - I've done some work now, with the World Vision Eye Clinic. They come every year, and this year had an extra dispenser in yours truly James Adrian Bentley esquire! The first day was sorting out what old stock they had and categorizing the powers etc. Not being a trained optometrist I found this difficult and eventually settled into sorting out the good and bad cases. We were rewarded that day with a sight seeing tour. The next day (Monday) the Clinic was held in the Deep Griha offices, Tadiwala Road and there was a welcoming ceremony where all the W.V. people got a floral necklace thing and I got two read roses, I was touched and flattered because I wouldn't have given me anything. That day was good, I was getting used to fitting spectacles, bending frames and managed to learn some Marathi. Distai means clear zauwl means close and lam means far. The frames on the whole are horrific but most were pleased to now have improved vision and only for 20 rupees. It was a good, but long day at work and the following day was to be longer.
Tuesday the Clinic was at a school next to 'City of Child' and in a very rural setting. We had no power so no frame heater and we really had a mixed barrel of eggs. It was mostly old people who were prescribed readers but only wanted distance glasses, I suppose most of them couldn't or didn't want to read. Others weren't happy with their frames and would try to take a different pair and we had to tell them that the other frames weren't for their prescription, and believe me this is hard with the Marathi I have. We had some of the most grateful people though, they would kiss our hands and praise our feet for giving them sight it was amazing. Being in the school we did cause a disruption and there were some trouble makers. These trouble makers were the teachers who deserted their classes and tried to by all the nice looking frames from us and every so often would shout at their class who I would be playing with and entertaining. It was a very long day but also very very rewarding. Today on the other hand I did nothing, I got shown a slum and sat with a very friendly Cr�che class. I suppose it has it's highs and lows. Jamie.
A city eye clinic.
25/01/03 - Hmmm, I stopped working with Vision Aid thinking there was things for me to do at Tadiwala Road. As it turned out there wasn't so and as I said before I was a loose end. Not to worry because I got given the task of putting lots of old files, laid higgledy piggledy on the roof, in to a cupboard. Luckily Robyn came and said lets through them down the stairs, then they have to be thrown out and someone else will have to deal with it. So we spent the morning filling rice sacks, dragging them down the stairs (we soon got kids to do this) and dumping them in the kitchen where the kitchen staff sorted through them all. That afternoon We went to the botanical gardens to choose flowers for the centres.
The next day, yesterday, Friday. I went in and for the early morning sat in with the Cr�che banging things and saying Namastai to them. he afternoon I went with the mobile clinic to villages and it was funny seeing people kick about with the horrible Vision Aid frames. In the ambulance it was quite dangerous because the Doctor kept attacking the driver with a chicken, while he was trying to manoeuvre Indian roads with a hefty drop on the side. Slightly more happened but my head is throbbing from dehydration so I'll go hopefully return with more interesting news.
Queuing at a village eye clinic.
01/02/03 - (good date eh?)More has happened; I've just returned from a short trip to Vadala where the mission is that I was originally meant to go to before Hewadiwela materialised from Indian Pakistan relations. Well I went there on Thursday, which meant an early rise at 5 o'clock (back to Sri Lankan style) and in the jeep with the Onawale brothers and Sudakar's wife. The trip took about 3 hours stopping once for some excellent sandwiches made by Baskar. At Vadala we got taken to the Onawale's family home first, then to their relatives for some tea. Vadala as a placement would have been wonderful, a nice quite village full of friendly villagers, a hospital nearby where work is needed, a boys home who appreciate volunteers and it's on the Pune Aurangabad highway so easy to get to the city. On to the function, the opening of a Nursing School donated by and American couple called the Schumakers. We sat in the crowd only to get told by Dr Mrs Prabakar to go up on the stage. The event was 2 hours and was basically as many people as possible getting presented with flowers, scarves, turbans etc. and then them all making speeches. Afterwards as Baskar and Sudakar were meeting old friends I was being pelted with flowers by the little kids, then three young nurses came up asking for my address and saying they were my new girlfriends and when Baskar told them I was a cricket player they wanted my autograph. That's something Hewadiwela didn't have a nursing school full of young ladies near by! After lunch, which was very tasty because it had chilli (everyone was amazed that I could eat spicy food) we went back to the Onawale home where I was to stay for my visit with Sudakar (this meant I didn't really experience fully what volunteer accommodation was like, but I had neither running water or a western toilet so it was fine). That evening meal was at the relatives� house then I went to a magic show with them. The next day I was taken on a trip. First the Ellora caves, which are 52 cakes of unsure religion origin (some say Buddhist some say Hindu, some say Jain) but are chiselled from a great rock and were magnificent. Next to an old Hindu fort that was taken over by the Muslims which is on the way to Aurangabad, which was the next stop where we saw a water mill and a fake Taj Mahal. There we went to the house some relation of the Boys home Warden. Back to Vadala for a well deserved sleep. The next day I was off to the Mission Hospital where straight away Dr Prabakar took me into the operating theatre where I saw him remove an appendix in all the Indian gory detail. After I got a tour of the new building (a lot of operating theatres donated by the Shumakers) and then I got taken round to see all the crops grown by the mission and the Balwadi, also a group of travelling performers performed a little piece explaining about aids to the villagers. On the way through the crops we got stopped and asked if I would inaugurate a marathon (it was only a 4km run but I didn't think they would appreciate my correction on what is defined by a marathon), which involved me smashing a coconut on the ground. Back to the boys home where I had lunch and they had a good by ceremony for me (but they called it felicitating me), they seemed to get so attached after 2 days. So the travelling performers turned up and sang welcome songs, did dances etc. I got presented with the flower necklace thing then had to give a packed of nibbles out to all the kids and others who were there and then make a speech. Then I left for Pune, getting a lift to Ahrumednagar and getting the bus to Pune with Sudakar and it was an easily enough, uneventful trip but lucky I had Sudakar because nothing was in English not even the tickets or conductor.
Presenting prizes at the goodbye 'felicitation'.
10/02/03 - Not written for a while. Sorry! The new Link volunteers arrive tonight at midnight and I'm to go and collect them, a friendly face or so to speak. anyway first the shocking news. The guy who came to the Ellora Caves and acted as my guide with very limited English has been murdered. He was starting a new job and went to do some preliminary work and while at the sight late at night he was hit on the head with a rock (they assume to be robbed but he had nothing of worth to steal) and was left and found dead a few days later. That's the shortened story and I don't know if I feel like following that straight up with what I've been doing. Anyway I'll have to select from what is interesting and what I can remember. I've been very busy typing and preparing for the new arrivals as well as showing around old Sri Lankan volunteers. I got a visit to a government hospital and very different to what I�m used to. Lots of stained table cloths in the examination rooms that are shared by 2, 3 or four doctors meeting with patients. Also they reused old stained rubber gloves but have sterile needles and scalpel blades etc. I spent quite a bit of time in the leprosy clinic meeting some very deformed lepers and seeing the way they test for leprosy, rehabilitate those with mild symptoms (like lack of feeling and stuff) and the drugs they dispense. I have a picture of a fingerless leper who couldn't close his eyes, he made me take it. I also got bought a urban and doty but am running out of time to learn how to tie it so if there are any Indians out there or you know any who would be willing to teach me please do when I get back. That's all I can think of off the top of my head so goodbye my dear children.
Jamie the Indian Man.
13/02/01 - Well I've arrived safely back in Sri Lanka, I left Pune at 5 o'clock, slept one hour on the plane and one hour in the taxi to Nigel�s and arrived at 8:30am so am very tired and have 30 min jet lag. My last day was good. I went to Rambo's (the now unemployed carpenter with a broken hand) house the night before and got taught and dressed in my dhoti and fheta and giving a really minging Indian shirt. The final day was spent packing and waiting for Naren to buy vital parts of my Mahrastra out fit. All the volunteers came home early to say goodbye and also Basker turned up and Neela and Rambo phoned to speak to me even though he can't say a word of English and I can't really speak and Marathi. So as I said I'm hear in Sri Lanka and the travel was ok, a few wrong queues here, having to identify baggage there and getting my small penknife confiscated by the police. It's good to be back, I like India, but Sri Lanka is my country. The amazing thing it's still very wet, the rainy season is over but there are still rain clouds like clockwork. Not done much yet just arrived and got a lift up here, I'll contact you when more has happened, which might be never. Who knows?
Goodbye Asia.
27/02/03 - Well as you may or not know I am now home. I started my journey in Colombo at 5 am, (that's 11 o'clock the previous night for you) and arrived home at about midnight (that's 6 o'clock the next day fro Sri Lankan) and I've taken 6 hours sleep trying to get my body back into British time.
The flights were fine, I think they all departed late and arrived early. The excess baggage we got away with. Spotted in the cue by a worker he identified we had too many bags and that our hand luggage was over weight so what to do? Well at the desk the conversation started with a Kohomadah Machun? Which light the boy up then through discussion and explanation of our work and me instructing him not to weigh the tablas or guitar he didn't charge us anything and my 15K hand luggage went in the cabin with me.
Nothing else really eventful happened on the journey, just a strange feeling. I was going home, leaving normal life to me and going back to real normal life. When I arrived in |Edinburgh it was like I hadn't been away, Sri Lanka had been a dream! I was afraid this would happen, and as I lay in bed I began to get home sick and think of the changes I'll have. No waking up at 5:30 for sugary tea and a good old shout and laugh with father. No more eating with my fingers, no more of the wonderful food that I got so use to. It's going to take a lot of adjustment by I'm more homesick for Sri Lanka than I was for Scotland.
Well I'm up, not sarong clad, I feel it�s a tad cold, but the difference from 36 to 6 degrees was not as drastic or bracing as I had anticipated, but I'll miss the heat and relaxed life of Sri Lanka. I suppose I should stop moaning about this and just get on with unpacking etc. Until my next adventure Gahilengna (I go and come).....
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