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� 1998-2002 Rosebriar Gardens
Send comments or suggestions to: [email protected]
Wintertime is a restful time for gardeners. It is a good time to review the successes and failures of last year's garden while making plans for this year's garden. If your mailbox is like mine, it is beginning to overflow with catalogs from seed and plant companies ruthlessly tempting you to order everything you see. Even though there might be snow on the ground, go ahead and place your seed orders now because February is the time to start your earliest seeds indoors.
Many vegetables and ornamentals will benefit greatly from this little head start. Cool weather vegetables like peas, onions, and lettuce should be started early so they will mature before the heat of summer arrives. Tomatoes and peppers should also be started early to allow plenty of time for development before transplanting well after the danger of frost. Tender perennials and annuals should generally be started 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date. Be sure to read the seed packet for exact planting information.
Seeds started inside have the same basic requirements as those started outside, but since their environment must be artificially maintained, they need more care. These requirements are soil, light and water.
The Right Stuff
The soil you use must be sterile! A fungus commonly known as "Damping-off Disease", which is ever present in soil, can wipe out hours of hard work in a matter of days by killing off your new seedling before it's had a chance. The conditions of indoor gardening seem particularly favorable for the development of this fungus. In order to avoid this scourge, you must use a sterile soil. When buying a seed-starting medium, make sure it has been sterilized! This should be clearly indicated on the packaging.
Commercial starting mediums usually consist of some combination of vermiculite and peat moss and are often referred to as "soil-less." I also recommend looking for a medium containing perlite. Perlite is high in phosphorous, which promotes root development. Regular potting soil is not the best choice for starting seeds. It is better to transplant seedlings into potting soil after they have developed their first set of leaves. After the soil has been thoroughly moistened, it can be placed in flats, peat pots, dixie cups, egg cartons, etc. The size of the container will depend on what type of plant you're growing. I have become particularly fond of peat pots since the roots are not disturbed during transplanting. The biggest drawback with peat pots is their susceptibility to fungal attacks. Pay close attention to spacing and don't let the pots touch each other. This will make sure there is good air circulation and help prevent the dreaded fungus from attacking.
By Sun or By Lamp
Seedlings need plenty of light. Even if you have a window that receives full sun, you might need to supplement it with artificial light. When seedlings receive insufficient light, they become tall and spindly or "leggy." If you are using only artificial light, you'll need a great deal of it. Use bulbs that are specifically made for growing plants and place them just a foot or so above your seedlings. You'll want to keep these lights on at least 14 hours a day to compensate for the lack of natural sunlight. Fluorescent tubes are ideal because they won't produce as much heat, which can quickly dry out your seedlings.
Moist not Muddy
The last requirement is the one that will require the most attention, moisture. You want to keep the medium moist, but not let it become wet or soggy. In general, it is best to water from below, allowing the medium to soak up the water like a sponge. To promote germination, many gardeners cover the flats or pots with plastic wrap as this keeps the planting medium both warm and moist. The plastic must be removed as soon as the plants sprout otherwise you risk suffocating your young seedlings. Personally, the only time I enclose a plant with plastic is when I am starting new plants from cuttings. I seem to have more fungal problems due to the lack of air circulation when I cover the flats.
At this point you will need to keep an eye on things to maintain the proper moisture. If you have a totally artificial setup you will probably be able to predict how often you'll need to water. If you're using a sunny window, you'll need to closely monitor your plants. Placing the containers on a raised bed of gravel spread across the bottom of a large pan with a small amount of water can help to prevent your seedlings from drying out. Make sure the water level is below that of the gravel so that the plant containers rest on the gravel and not on the water.
Ready, Set, Transplant!
It is important not to start seeds indoors too early. If they outgrow your flats or small pots you might try thinning them and transplanting the largest to bigger pots. Ideally, you want to plant them outside just as they become large enough to survive transplanting. This is usually four to six weeks after sowing, when there are at least two sets of true leaves. Again, be sure to read the seed packet for exact information on germination and planting time, so you'll know exactly when to start your seeds indoors.
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� 1998-2002 Rosebriar Gardens
Send comments or suggestions to: [email protected]