I remember watching gruesome scenes from the Balkan war on the news in the mid-nineties.
Although often horrific, they didn�t mean much to me as I had little idea of where the war
was taking place or what the conflict was about. After visiting Bosnia we definitely have
a better idea about the conflict. The war aside, it also has amazing scenery and
Turkish-influenced food and markets. We are keen to return � perhaps in the winter to check out the ski fields.
Sarajevo
Visited: September 2004
The first thing that hit us about Sarajevo was how proud they were of hosting the Winter Olympics in 1984. It was obviously a huge deal for the city. Despite the event taking place over 20 years ago, an enormous sign advertising the games was still prominently posted outside the main exit of the central train station. We were told that it is now the city�s dream to host the games again.
Arrive
We took the overnight train from Budapest (Deli station I think) to Sarajevo. There seemed to be a train leaving at about 6pm each night and arriving in Sarajevo 12 hours later. The train was pretty much deserted and the carriages had bench seats so we were able to get a good night�s sleep. We were awakened by a stooped old woman with missing teeth clutching a ragged child by the hand who thrust a leaflet for Hostel Ljubicica at us. She later led us out of the train station to taxi waiting to take us to the hostel.Explore
War, History and Tolerence Tour - Run by Hostel Ljubicica, this excellent tour gives an overview of the Bosnian war and the city�s history. We visited a Jewish cemetery where Serbian soldiers sat and took potshots at Bosnians walking down �snipper�s alley� and a lookout over the city. The highlight was the tunnel museum. The Kolar family have made a museum of their house, which became the entrance to the tunnel under the airport built by the Bosnian to transport food and weapons into the city during the siege. We had a fantastic tour guide who spoke perfect English � highly recommended.
Franz Ferdinand Bridge - the bridge where Arch Duke Franz Ferdinand was assisinated, triggering the start of the First World War. When we visited our Canadian companion couldn�t stop humming the Franz Ferdinand song �This fire� to set the scene (!?). As far as soundtracks for Bosnia go, I prefer U2�s Miss Sarajevo. We cranked it up on the ipod and sat in the square eating fruit from the market and watching men argue over their chess games.
Markale Market - You can pick up a cheap and healthy lunch at the Merkale Market on Mula Mustafe Baseskija street. Apparently the market was bombed during the war, killing 68 people.
Inat Kuca - Quaint Bosnian restaurant across the river from the Turkish quarter.
Rest
Hostel Ljubicica arranged private accomodation for us - in someone's kitchen! Our bed was literally jammed between the oven and the fridge. The family was obviously earning a bit of extra money by eating out for a couple of days. It was a little bit strange but cheap, clean and close to the centre of Sarajevo.Mostar
Visited: September 2004
Mostar was a city divided. Muslim/Croat fighting fractured this beautifual medieval down the middle and witnessed some
of most fierce combat in the Balkan war. The 16th century stari most (old bridge) was completely destroyed in the fighting -
Croats to the West, Mulims to the East.
The stari most has been rebuilt and was opened in a elaborate ceremony in early 2004 (complete with Prince Charles). Althuogh the new brdige is a symbol of croat/muslim unity the city still seems to be separated into distinct Croat and Muslim areas. It must be very strange to meet someone in a line for an ATM who was pointing a machine gun at you across the river a decade ago.
Arrive
We took a bus from Sarajevo to Mostar. It took 2 hours, was very cheap and they appeared to be frequent. The scenery was spectacular as we travelled down the Neretva river valley. The brilliant turquoise river wove its way over the rolling hills. We passed several deserted villages on the trip - only the concrete shells of houses remained. A chilling reminder of ethnic cleansing during the war.Explore
Stari Most - The famous bridge that now unites the town. Young Bosnian men collect money from tourist and when they decide that they have enough they plunge off into the freezing emerald Neretva river several stories below.Front Line - Although the war years ago, the scars of war are still disturbingly visible. The front line is one block to the west of the river. A chilling reminder of the fierce warfare that Mostar witnessed.
Karadzozbeg Mosque - This is the most important mosque on the Eastern (Muslim) side of the river. We were met by a young muslim girl who was keen to show us around and coax us up the minaret for a view out over the town.
Turkish House - Our young tour guide also convinced us to visit the 350 year old Turkish House. The house has been preserved as it would have been when it was owned by a wealthy Turkish family. You may even be convinced to dress up in traditional Turkish clothes for a photo!
Rest
We were met at the bus station by a man offering us a ride to Sunce Pansion on the hill on the Eastern side of Mostar. Our apartment, which was one of a number in the complex, was cheap, clean and comfortable. The address of the Pansion is Alikalfica Street br. 5 and the contact phone number is +387 36 551-444
Sarajevo
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City that survived a seige
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A bridge unites
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Check out what Lonely Planet has to say about Bosnia.
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