Telos



Dodecanese






Telos is abandoned villages, abandoned castles, abandoned monasteries, abandoned old paths. Telos is one of the least advertised and least touristed islands. Telos is a reign of solitude and serenity. Telos has a heart as noble, peaceful and warm, as those of its inhabitants. Telos gains its visitors back. The less you will have heard before coming here, the more you will have to remember and tell after you leave.

The charming little port of Telos, at Livadia bay, can serve as a convenient base for your walks.

WALK 1.: Walk along the sandy beach of Livadia. At its extreme east, pick the old stone path to the east. In a while the path zig-zags ascending the slope to the south, and then forks. en_route_from_livadia_to_yeri The fork to the west will emerge on a small plateau with abandoned cottages and almond trees. The stone path continues from this plateau to the north, passing from the slope of a hill, on top of which there are the remains of ancient fortifications. The hill is called Kastelos, a name that commonly denotes an elevation with a castle atop. Kastelos occupies a commanding position at the bay and fertile valley of Livadia. Climb up here trailless, if not for the ruins, for the view. The path continues from Kastelos's slope to the port.

The fork to the east will lead you to the village of Yeri, abandoned since World War II. The children of the village used to walk this path every day to go to school.
Yeri sits amidst a low valley that ends to a beach towards the sea. The path continues from Yeri to the precipitous hill to the extreme east of Telos. Climb up here (450m) for unobstructed views.

WALK 2.: The road to the port's extreme north-east dwindles to a path that will take you, after a short walk, to a secluded sandy cove. From the cove another path will lead you to Mikro Horio.

WALK 3.: Another prominent path used to connect the port with the two bigger villages to the north, Mikro Horio and Megalo Horio. Today the path is intersected by a newly constructed cement road, and in big part buried uder it.

Entering Mikro Horio is an unforgetable experience.
At its heyday, at the turn of the century, this village had 1000 souls. Its last inhabitant, an old woman who lived here with the sole company of her goat, died back in 1967.

Today the abandoned village is a haunted place, with crumbling houses, and demolished oil-presses. On days with fair weather, the only thing you can hear is your breath noise and your heart-beat.

Mikro Horio is said to have been a fortified medieval town, enclosed in a rectagle wall with four towers, one in each corner. Remains of two towers are can still be seen on the village's north end.

Traditional architecture lovers will find Mikro Horio very interesting, as the decaying houses and chapels, are uncovering wide open their constuction igredients. But, short after the first enthusiasm, they too, just like the Teliotes, are likely to feel depression and sorrow about this once bustling with life place. One of their recent demands towards the Greek Government was the restoration of the houses and the establishment here of homeless and refugee families for free.

To the left of the road to Megalo Horio, there are the traces of a small medieval fort, called Messaras, that protected this passage towards the island's fertile plain of the same name. In 1974, a cave with paleontological remains of dwarf elephants was discovered next to the fort. too_bad_the_web_doesnt_support_springs_flowers_smell_files_yet

The strategic hill above Megalo Horio, has been inhabited since prehistoric times.
The ancient greek city of Telos was built around the hill. Its top was crowned by the city's acropolis.
The medieval town, was built on the upper southern slope of the hill. It was invisible from the sea, and protected by the castle, the inhabitants' last refuge, at times of pirates' raids.
The hill is today is fenced off with wire, to enclose the greezing flocks of goats, the modern inhabitants of the castle and its ruined churches.
Archeology buffs will find the site very interesting. The medieval castle is built on the ancient isodomic wall of the acropolis; churches are built on ancient temples; ancient inscriptions are inmurated in medieval buildings; chapels are incorporating ancient stelae; sherds and ancient litter everywhere. Don't miss visiting the village's cemetery, which occupies the position of the cemetery of the ancient city: it is an open museum with dozens of ancient sculptures.

WALK 4.: There is an old path connecting Megalo Horio with the monastery of Agios Panteleimonas, to the north-west. The fortified monastery, locked and abandoned today, is situated at the island's extreme west, in a lush gorge with running fresh water springs. Due to the construction of a new road, the path has practically been abandoned and neglected, and it is not unlikely to be fenced off, or closed with overgrown bushes.




Selected Bibliographic Resources Concerning Telos:


For bibliographic resources concerning Telos refer to the pages of Saria and Halki. You can also find several articles about Telos in old issues of "Dodecanessiaka" and "Dodecanissiaka Hronika" (Consult a major library).




Special thanks to Nader Bolouri of Artline Image Processing, 9 Aretousas Str., Iraklion (081-227234), for scanning my slides for this page.




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