SWISS
NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION LEADER
Swiss team leaves for Nanga Parbat, Loretan attempts to create history
JULY24-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Swiss elite alpinist Erhard Loretan with three members left for Nanga
Parbat on Monday to do the incredible, the unclimbed' Mazeno Ridge' in
Alpine Style.
Erhard
third man to don the Himalayan Crown with 14 8000ers in 1995 with
Kanchenjunga summit said," It is the challenge and I feel very strong
that I will make it this time Inshallah."
The
Mazeno Ridge which till date still remains the highest unclimbed traverse
in the fourteen 8000ers.
Erhard
Loretan (41) with Wojciech Kurtyka (53) from Poland attempted the peak in
1997 (The Nation has the exclusive). Wojciech Kurtyka also made an
unsuccessful bid in 1996 managing 6700 metres before turning back.
"We
believe we went higher than the 6700 metres in 1997," said Erhard
Loretan adding," We could have made the summit but we were low on
food and second in case of bad weather we had no option of turning
back."
"This
time we are prepared and have planned for the summit," said the Swiss
elite climber adding," It is expected to take us five days going up
and two days coming down weather and snow conditions permitting."
"I
am climbing Nanga Parbat as it has a challenge in it which suits my
style."
Erhard
Loretan climbed Nanga Parbat in 1982 from Diamir Face and it is the only
peak out of the 14 8000ers which he climbed with fixed ropes.
"Of
the 14 peaks, I have climbed 13 in Alpine Style and it was only Nanga
Parbat which I climbed using fixed ropes."
The
ridge offers a gradual climb that is roughly of 10 kilometres.
There
are few difficult points during the climb which offer mixed terrain both
rock and ice at 7,000 metres and above.
"It
is very long," said Erhard Loretan adding," It keeps you engaged
and there is no way to go down in between."
"We
will have our Base Camp at 4500 metres and follow it it up with bivouac at
6800 metres, we will stay at the altitude for few days for acclimatization
before coming down and making the final push."
"The
team is very strong and I have my old friend Jean Troillet (52) climbing
with me besides Jean Schorderet (28) and Chantal Oudin (32)."
Erhard
and Jean Troillet have been on number 8000ers together and Jean has eight
8000ers to his credit with
K-2 summit in 1985. The other 8000ers to his name include Everest,
Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Shishapangma, Cho Oyu and Makalu.
The
expedition is likely to make the summit bid in late August.
CAPTION:
Erhard Loretan