ITALIAN NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITION LEADER REINHOLD MESSNER
Messner terms Nanga Parbat as 'kismat'
JULY1-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Elite Italian alpinist Reinhold Messner who arrived in Islamabad for
Nanga Parbat 8125 metres on Saturday morning termed the peak as his fate 'kismat'.
"Nanga
Parbat has brought both positive and negative effects on me," said
Reinhold Messner who first scaled the peak in 1970 and during the climb
lost his brother Gunther Messner on the peak.
"The
most memorable experience of my climbing was the solo summit of Nanga
Parbat in 1978," said Reinhold Messner adding," It has been 30
years since I climbed the peak and I am here again."
Fifty-six
year old Reinhold Messner who is also member European Parliament finds the
mountains as his second home and has the distinction of scaling all the
peaks without using oxygen besides being the first person to climb all the
14 8000ers of the world.
"I
like to get out from the normal routines and do things that I like doing
and mountains provide me the chance to get out on holidays."
"The
challenge is very difficult and we are all old climbers," said
Messner adding," I will not push it but since I am also the leader I
will try to see the expedition records a success with one or more members
making the summit."
The
team will take on Nanga parbat in Alpine Style with the Base Camp at 4200
metres and Advance Base camp at 6000 metres.
"We
hope to make it to the top and back from Advance Base Camp to Advance Base
Camp in three days, with weather and snow conditions permitting we will
make the summit Insha Allah in late July or early August."
Referring
to the technical portions of the North Face he said," Three is big
serac we have to negotiate
between 6200 metres to 6500 metres and followed by a long traverse at the
Shoulder at 7800 metres."
"The
North Summit of Nanga Parbat is 7870 metres and we will walk from there to
the main summit at 8125 metres."
"We
opted for North Face because it is unclimbed and there are very few routes
available on 8000 metres peaks."
Answering
a query he said," Nobody knows about the new line there may be a new
route available on K-2 and Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat but we will focus
on our route as I have always done new routes in my life."
Referring
to the team Reinhold said," We are all friends and we have been
climbing together. Apart from myself Wolfgang Thomaseth (Camera man 52)
attempted Nanga Parbat in 1990 while the other two are visiting Pakistan
for the first time."
The
team is also taking two high altitude porters Rozi Ali and Muhammad Khan
both from Hushe as High Altitude Porters.
"They
will assist us till Advance Base Camp at 6000 metres," informed
Reinhold Messner.
The
other climbers in the team also include Reinhold's younger brother Hubert
Messner (46) and Hans Peter Eisendle (43). Ralf Peter Maertin is
accompanying the team as journalist. Najeeb Khan from Bunji (village near
Nanga Parbat) is the liaison officer. Najeeb met Reinhold when he was six
year old in 1970 as the expedition after losing Gunther Messner stayed for
few days at his village.
The
expedition will leave for Nanga Parbat in couple of days.
CAPTION:
Italian Nanga Parbat expedition leader Reinhold Messner (3rd Right) with
members and high altitude porters. — Photo by the writer
ENDS
By
Our Sports Reporter (Asem)
ISLAMABAD
— Italian alpinist Reinhold Messner who will be climbing Nanga Parbat
for the third time in 30 years with a solo in 1978 met Minister for
Tourism and Sports Derick Cyprian on Saturday.
The
elite alpinist member of the European Parliament author of many books
presented one of his book to the Minister who assured that Government of
Pakistan is working on a increasing the number of adventure tourists to
the country besides adopting a more tourist friendly approach.
The
climber also informed the minister of his future plans of making a
documentary on the region and minister assured the maximum cooperation
from the government side in the venture.
ENDS