SPANISH BROAD PEAK EXPEDITION LEADER CARLOS SORIA FONTAN
Carlos
sets sight for the fourth time for Broad
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Distinguished Spanish mountaineer Carlos Soria Fontan at 61 is setting
his sight on Broad Peak for the fourth time.
He
landed in capital Islamabad on Tuesday along with his friend Jose Louis
Hurtado (56) after reaching 8350 metres on Everest in May 2000.
The
two will be climbing with the Czech team lead by 47 year old Jozef Rybicka.
Carlos
Soria said," I want the summit of Broad Peak this time and Insha
Allah I will climb it."
Carlos
has the distinction of being the oldest climber with three 8000ers summits
(Nanga Parbat 1990, Gasherbrum II 1994, and Cho Oyu 1999) will try to make
it four this year weather and conditions permitting. Carlos scaled Cho Oyu
in April 1999 to bag the third 8000er.
He
came for Broad Peak in 1979, over two decades ago managing 6500 metres, he
tried again in 1992 but was unlucky reaching 7400 metres and in 1999 he
managed 6800 metres.
"This
time I am here again and Insha Allah I will make it to the top," said
Carlos Soria who reached 8350 metres on Everest including two nights on
South Col at 8000 metres.
The
elite Spanish mountaineer is still active at the climbing front and has
been to Pakistan nine times recording success on more than half the
occasions including the summit of Trichmir in 1996.
Carlos
partner Jose are old time climbing associates and they share the memorable
summit of Gasherbrum II in 1994.
The
Czech team which has the two Spanish climbers on their permit comprise of
seven climbers.
Jozef
Rybicka leads the expedition. This is the third time for Jozef in
Pakistan, he has the summit of Gasherbrum II in 1997. He attempted Nanga
Parbat in 1992 reaching 7500 metres. He has been very active in the
Nepalese Himalayas and has been there over 20 times in different
expeditions with attempts on Dhaulagiri and Ama Dablam twice. His summits
in Nepal are Mira Peak and Siakang Peak. Louka Oto (44) teacher by
profession and a member in the expedition has made the top of Cho Oyu in
1995 rest all the other climbers are visiting Pakistan for the first time.
"We
will see the condition on the Broad Peak," said Jozef adding,"
If snow and weather permits we will attempt the mountain in Alpine
Style."
Other
expedition members are: Jozef Kubicek (50), David Ullrich (26), Bohous
Vlcek (41), Kamiz Bortel (35) and Pavel Balarin (45). Dr Roman Vrbka is
the expedition doctor and will remain at the Base Camp.
The
team is expected to make the Base Camp at 5300 metres, Advance Base camp
at 6100 metres, Camp 1 at 6600 metres and Camp 2 at 7200 metres.
CAPTION:
Carlos Soria Fontan on the summit of Cho Oyu.