BRAZILIAN K-2 EXPDITION LEADER WALDEMAR NICLEVICZ
Waldemar vows to reach K-2 summit
JUNE4-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Thirty-four year old Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz after two
unsuccessful bids on K-2 in 1998 and 1999 is here this year to climb the
peak which eluded him on both the occasions.
"This
year I am not here to climb but to reach the summit," said Waldemar
who is climbing the peak for himself and for his would be wife Adriana
Carioba whom he will marry this year.
Waldemar
has already offered Gasherbrum II meaning the "Shining Wall" to
the woman of his life whom he was to wed last September in 1999.
"I
am not taking unnecessary risk this time as Adriana is waiting for
me," said Waldemar who is also member of the Elite Seven Summits Club
besides having the four 8000ers Cho Oyu, Shishapangma Gasherbrum II and
Everest.
"We
have three High Altitude Porters to assist us in the climb," said the
34 year old adding," K-2 is my dream peak and she is my dream woman
and the 'Big Day' is after when I climb the peak for us."
"The
two are very special in their own way and the summit Insha Allah is for
us."
Waldemar
is leading a three member strong team and the other two climbers are from
Italy and both mountain guides by profession.
Abele
Blanc at 46 has 10 of the 14 8000ers, the last 8000er Makalu he climbed 20
days ago on May 15. He has K-2 and Nanga Parbat to climb in Pakistan
besides Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in Nepal.
Twenty
eight year old Marco Camandona also from Italy has three 8000ers to his
credit Manaslu, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma.
The
three high altitude porters with the expedition includes Muhammad Saddiq,
Hassan and Meherban Shah who are all veterans of 8000 meter peaks of
Pakistan. Meherban stands out tall as he has climbed K-2 from the Normal
Route (South East Abruzzi Ridge) in 1995 with Rajab Shah.
"I
have a very strong feeling and I have studied K-2 for too long and this
time Insha Allah I will be on the top," said Waldemar who is taking
all possible measures to reach the summit.
"I
planned to climb the peak without oxygen but if necessary I will use
it," he said adding," During my 1998 attempt on K-2 we turned
back from 'Shoulder' at 7900 metres, while going up we deposited six
oxygen bottles and lets hope they are there.
I
know the place and all we need to carry is the mask."
Waldemar
has made two plans if weather and conditions are favourable he intends to
make three camps and then summit preferably at the end of July.
"It
all depends on the conditions I was very strong in 1999 but the weather
never cleared and I wanted to climb the peak in one single push and back,
I kept on waiting at the Base Camp, one of the climber Mihai from Romania
also died during the climb and that made all the expeditions to pack up in
1999."
"This
year I am mentally and physically very focussed on the project K-2 and I
have prepared for it for a long time."
"The
expedition will make regular camp sites four in all if the conditions are
not good but in the other case it would be Base Camp at 5000 metres like
normal, Camp 1 at 6550 metres, Camp 2 at 7400 metres and Camp 3 at 8100
metres above the rocks."
"This
year I am not here to take any chances and I want the summit as I am not
here to climb but to reach the summit for us."
Waldemar
and Adriana are getting married this year most likely in the last quarter
of the year 2000.
CAPTION:
Waldemar Niclevicz