SWEDISH BROAD PEAK EXPEDTON LEADER ROGER REINHOLD
Swedes
for variation on
MAY22-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Top Swedish climbers arrived in capital to make the first Swedish
ascent on the Broad Peak from the South South West Ridge.
"The
highest point attained on the route is 7150 metres by the Basque Inurrategi
brothers and it is a mission for us to make a new route on an
8000er," said 38 year old Roger Reinhold who is leading the
expedition.
The
expedition visiting Pakistan for the first time will vie for the peak from
two sides. Two climbers Roger Reinhold and Jens-Victor Palm (25) will
attempt the peak from the Normal Route while the remaining five will
attempt the South South West Ridge.
"The
route is quite difficult and from Base Camp (5000 metres) to Camp 1 (6100
metres) there is an angular slope of 60 degrees added with a 50 metre
vertical ice section in the last portion," said Roger adding,"
6100 metres to 6900 metres is an avalanche prone slope and we may fixed it
with rope for the safe descent."
"There
is snow field from 6900 metres from 7150 metres from where the hardest
part of the climb begin there are steep sections added with possibility of
combs which can be time consuming."
Answering
a query Roger said," If we fix the portion from 7100 metres to 7500
metres there is a possibility we will go for the summit push from 7100
metres and if not the only option is to make a bivouac at the 7500 metres.
Afterwards the steepness of the route is gentle and approach to the summit
at 8047 metre is easy."
"Jens
and I will be at the Normal Route," said Roger adding," The
climbers on the South South West Ridge after making the summit can come
down via the Normal Route which will be supported by the tents pitched at
high point near 7300 metres."
"Personally
I (Roger) believe the five climbers going for the variation are very
committed and strong and it is the mental strength that matters."
"They
have the right attitude and we will support the expedition goal in the
form of getting first new route for the Sweden which will be historic fete
in itself."
The
five climbers attempting the South South West Ridge are Christian Edelstam
(29), Carl Lundberg (28), Tomas Lagerfelt (28), Mike Wright (29) and
Magnus Anderson (28).
Route
Map
Caption:
Roger Reinhold